@@jenbrushwood8872 the I-61 on the left I’ve decided would be cool powering a mini bike, so that’s a project for this winter lol

@@thomasmatthews8055 🤣😂🤣 It’s pretty evident that I’m not on meth, but thanks for the comment and activity on my channel.

@@AppalachianWrench you bet man, obviously. Sorry, I meant it as a joke. I sincerely apologize. Your stuff is way to organized for one that poisons their brain sack. Actually I like having a bunch of stuff around, it is easy to get parts to fix things and for folks that need parts. Again, I do apologize.

@@Deucealive75 I had a digital tach I meant to put on but hadn’t yet out of laziness. I’d say if I had to guess for $1 million bucks I’d say I never got it quite to 5500. It did do it going up a steep hill though, which I didn’t mention in the video. After looking at the epoxy on the hisun flywheel vs the new hemi predator I have I think a 212 can handle more. It seems better anchored and the epoxy goes all the way around. I appreciate the insight and input though, I can tell it’s not your first day and you have done a thing or three. When I stuck the zip tie on it and tried it out it seemed safe to me. I didn’t want to tear it up intentionally. I do have another one of these 196’s though and I’ve considered making a video about reinforcing the magnet or something. I think my primary focus though will be on building predators, since it appears the quality control is better. Pushing a Hisun that’s been out in the snow and sun for a couple years is a roll of the dice. I guess the only real way to know is zip tie the other 196 and put the tach on it and try to figure out what range I was at. I tried a speedometer app the day before it blew up and it was peaking at 28.2 mph.

@@AppalachianWrench Very interesting that you were lower than 5500. I can't resist and have to comment about the Predator 212's and the Hisun 196. When compared to other now common engines available for the minibike hobby, both Predator 212's are of lower quality than others. The best thing about the Predator 212's is the initial cost. The Hisun 196 is a good quality clone (196). Certainly better quality than the 196's that Harbor Freight used to sell before Predator came out. Only negative was the 16mm crankshaft. I built my then 6 year Hisun last year and included a 3/4" crankshaft. Was an easy build and has more power than expected. If you go with one of the Predator 212's, be sure to watch this video before doing so. He does a good job explaining them. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bnqUpKyjlNBkY9U

@@mitcrex this engine had 22lb springs. The stock flywheel can typically handle 1,000 more RPM’s than I was running before any problems occur. This was a byproduct of weathering and compromised epoxy. The predator 212 magnets hold better than the old Hisun magnets. This is a clip from a longer video that’s linked in the bold words above the description. I was just trying to let the new generation know the dangers of buying second hand and what weathering and a few winters / summers in the mountains of Appalachia can do. I don’t intentionally push things to failure unless announcing so beforehand, and this was a case where I was operating within the parameters that have been proven multiple times before, but still had a come apart situation. This ran for two weeks before failing. It’s not an end all answer to every situation, just something to raise awareness to those not buying new. It seems these days a lot of people are just regurgitating things they hear online these, but haven’t actually seen any of it firsthand. Billet flywheels are like seatbelts. Not always necessary but always a good idea if you’re going to take risks. Common folks wreck more just like they can’t tell the RPM’s by ear and feel deceived through practical experience. Sometimes things or accidents happen though that aren’t caused by us and we have to be prepared for them, which is where the seatbelt and flywheel come into play. I learned some valuable lessons from this experience and making this video though. 1. Inspect the condition of things before riding them. 2. Accidents can happen even when situational circumstances say you’re ok. 3. If you don’t look like a typical mechanic people will do anything they can to discredit you, regardless of your background. 4. If you make a “short” put a disclaimer in the description that all information is not covered in the allotted 60 seconds.

That’s right!

@@AppalachianWrench you must have been a greenie around a bunch of salty old hands that did shit right, once. Same here. I got in the welding game around 28 or so and one of my first fitters always wore bib overalls and only carried a 5 gallon bucket with a chalk line, 3 different squares, a plum line and a fold out measuring stick. That dude made a perfect fit every time. He’d draw it all out on the floor, we’d build it and it was never off. RIP Mr Stacey and thank you for all the great advice that you gave me as a newbie. But, I think we’ve talked about this on FB, chasing that big money is nice, but your spending habits end up becoming as big as the paychecks. The good Lord knows what you need and I am pretty sure that little fella on the 4 wheeler with you would rather have those moments with you than some expensive toy when you’re not around 😉🤙. Much love Zack

@@erratixkillah1343 they can withstand up to 6.5k without flying apart. This was an epoxy failure from a couple years sitting in the elements in Southern WV. Most billet flywheels have 8 degrees more timing advancement than stock flywheels. Moving the power band into a higher rpm range. Without altering the governor it could possibly never even rev high enough to hit peak power. So if you’re pushing over 6.5k rpm a flywheel is necessary, but this is just one of those things that happens sometimes around 5-5.5k. Ultimately a flywheel upgrade is ok as long as you’re at least upgrading the carb jet and air filter to help feed it, and modifying the governor to assist in rpm’s. Out of 10 of these flywheels 1 may have a magnet epoxy failure based on my conversations with the old school racers and honda clone gurus.

Like I said it was old epoxy. It couldn’t handle the 5k to 5.5k after being left out in the weather for years. I’ve turned them over 6k no problem, but it drove fine for 2 weeks before the zip tie then suddenly blew apart with the added force. (Edited to say that’s just in my experience.)

100% had to do with higher rpm and shifty cheap cast iron flywheel with wood screw holding magnet lol

Guys have built small blocks for many years that run RPM much higher than a zip tied stock engine. There's no issue with overheating or scored cylinders from RPM.

They are supposed to hold until 6k pretty reliably but due to age the epoxy on the magnet came loose at higher rpm’s. The magnet then tore that stuff up. Centrifugal force played a part but age was the biggest factor. I’ve seen them turn 1k more and hold tight when new.

What? 🤦🏼‍♂️

I’m working on one. I have some clips but want to do a full over and go through all the details of the engine swap the previous owner did and upgrades. I’d say it’ll be ready to post by the end of the month 😁

@@AppalachianWrench hell yeah can't wait man 🤙