you need a plastic prying tool to unlatch the plastic clips. not breaking them off with brute force my friend. Sorry to see you broke your tab. Now you need to find a way to secure it back together, unless some of the electronnics were also damaged during this exercise. All the best

What was the trick? Just push the knurling tool into the piece and tighten it down? Isn't that how normal knurling is done? Did I miss something? I'm not being sarcastic, I honestly don't understand. Thanks in advance.

Please post about locking the ER collet into the nut before placing it into the collet block. If you fail to do this it will never clamp properly!

Very nice work. Thanks enjoy your videos. Very helpful information.

You are getting very nice finishes on these little machines. And for the angled cut: yup that's why I bought a swivel vise, it really makes things easier.

Нытье какое то

I had no idea that welding gloves were specific in their use. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.

Lots of good information thank Dave.

Even if you're not doing anything in the workshop, matching or otherwise. Bare feet NO. Approved safety boots YES. Not a good idea or practice to let viewers think it's OK. A tip from me

Although I don’t posses this masterpiece, I have seen this pulley close up in detail. It’s far better than the original. Fantastic work. I really love the tips and small opinion reviews of the products you use. Sharing knowledge is what most our channels are about. Cheers. Nice one.

I have used Pledge on plastics for 50 years , as a auto tech I would use it on dash gauge lens , convertible top back windows , and Corvette hard top back glass .

Great video. Most gloves you will find the stitching won't handle the excess sparks from mig but should be pretty good with Tig and just ok with stick welding. You'll know it's about weighing up cost for longevity and comfort.

Hello Dave, a long time ago... 🙂

Another great video on some great Tips thanks again .

Thank you !

Great summary. So far the pulley and lather are working great. I will be reviewing the setup soon and checking how things are holding up. Great collaboration with a great outcome. Thanks again for the design and help here. Also funny you posted Vevors blog which I had no idea they used my picture on. lol.

I am having the same problem on getting the tip off it is on there and I don’t what to brake it, so I was thinking about doing the same thing you had to do with the vise and gnarled tipped pliers.

Did you use Combined radial-axial bearings on the inside of the pulley? Or just radial load bearings. I don’t think they used a large enough diameter bearings in the original design to handle the radial loads. Also their placement of the bearings is way off. Great job resolving the issue.

The problems never stop do they. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.

Good stuff Dave

Great job Dave ,Im glad it worked out super cool !!!

I have the Canadian (Busy Bee) version the that same tool holder. I like the idea of making the handles for tightening the tools in place, instead of grabbing a allen key.

Are you ever going back to the engine?

Nice machine good description. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.

Thanks again for the help on the lathe pulley. Nice welder and love the thumbnail. Cheers my friend.

Dear Dave, always a good time when you release a video. May i ask where you purchased the welder from? I found a couple of listings, but none show a foot pedal. Thank you, hope everyone is well.

I remember 30 , 35 yrs ago, tig welders were so darned expensive, only companies, factories, and shops could actually buy one. Now you can get a decent machine for under 200 bucks. Not like im going to be doing production stuff. For small repairs or one off jobs they're fairly decent.

G'day, Mr Dave, Nice video. Tig is something im looking into. So, thanks for sharing the unboxing. ✌️ Peace from Melbourne Australia.

Nice New Toy Daves gona have fun!!

The tenth of a thousandth readout is via a "vernier" scale. This is not pronounced like "veneer" as in hardwood veneer plywood. The emphasis is on the 1st syllable and the word rhymes with the made-up word "burnier". So it's pronounced "Vern" like the name, and "...ier". It reduced your credibility if you don't even know how to pronounce the words. Unfortunately lots of people get this wrong, not sure why since you can just look it up on Google and click to get the proper pronunciation...

Did you use the original(brushed) motor the mill came with?

That is not a precision level. A precision level lets you MEASURE the amount of incline. Not just detect it and then guess the amount based on a guess at how far the bubble is off. The Starrett 4” level has 6 very accurate graduations in an approximately .750 vial window, allowing you to MEASURE .005”” per foot discrepancies not just detect them.

Hi Dave that not good to touch with the hand the shaving ,when i was in machine school my teacher said just stop the cariage for a split sec to break that chip, and one of my friend long time ago lost the tip of a finger , it s was 304 ss like razer blades it was nasty just be careful.

great videos

You have had this tester for a year now, what are you thoughts on it after this time. I am considering buying one.

This has been a great collaboration and I love seeing the process on your side. I have been collecting the clips from my perspective and will share them in a video montage of sorts so if anyone is interested in our collaboration process they can get a bit of an inside look. Thanks again for taking on this challenge and helping me eek more life out of this vevor mini lathe.

these issues re common across ALL chonese mini-lathes. the motors are DC and cannot do production quality. the specs are NOT high so to make it even "ok" repetable you have to do a TON of work. i have a YZ-210D and have repalced every bearing in it and added bearings to the drive screw. all bearings are now SKF. i have do a lot fo work to the saddle and am going to take the bed to get the bottom proeprly ground flat as mine has some off specs to it in differnet spots, so much that sanding is not going to fix it. my lathe was $1200. I will have about $450-$550 into it when done to get it to be a decent machine. from there i will be building a new saddle that is wider and slightly longer and will take a ball screw to make it easier and smoother operation. anyway, know these are for messing around not for production.

Your channel is one of the useful ones because of the free drawings and the dimensions etc.. that you supply. This helps make youtube a useful reference source. I am glad you brought up the swarf part as I would have and with my lack of tact might have offended you. Keepa you hands off the swarf even when the lathe is not running. That is what they make needle nose pliars for. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.

19:00 time for a safer hobby, have you considered knife catching? Sorry for being sarcastic, I have done the same thing earlier in my life, but it was a blue hot steel snarl that cauterized my finger when it won the tug-o-war. Enjoyed the video, cheers!

Micro V belt ?

I noticed your vise is mounted too far from the edge of your bench. You should be able to clamp a long piece of stock vertically in the vise and have it hang below the top of the bench in the front or also to the side of the bench top.

Very nice work sir. He he. I’m going to, or have to make a flywheel myself soon. Thanks

Great video. I am not a consistent follower, bit I do review yr videos periodically.... this style video in my opinion ,was the best you've ever done

Or an Oklahoma socket set too

It’s call an Oklahoma knuckles skinner

Great tips! What you call a crescent wrench was in fact invented in Sweden by Johan Petter Johansson and was patented 1892. In Sweden the wrench is called skiftnyckel. Another tool invented by Johan Petter Johansson is the pipe wrench and it was patented 1888. The pipe wrench is called rörtång in swedish. During his long life, he took out no less than 110 patents. Johan Petter Johansson was born in 1853 and died in 1943, almost 90 years old.

I use a collet chuck ER20 and ER32 and 64th collets and others for drilling.

Nice set of tips and tricks. I’ve always “hot blued” by dipped in oil but you are right. They aren’t really blue. I’ll try your technique someday. Great tip for checking hardness. Cheers.

Good video Dave! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.

Crescent wrenches will always be Crescent wrenches no matter who makes them. And Allen wrenches will always be Allen wrenches. Seriously though, I've known the proper names for many years but still use the names I learned when I was a kid (early '50's).