Do you think the weight of the matte box plus the ND filter when screwed onto the lens (Sigma 24-70) can ruin the lens in the long run? I've been a fan of Freewell filters, and I'm currently using their magnetic variable ND. I'm wondering if upgrading to a matte box would be worth it.

After 50 yrs. Plus shooting film in Canon & Nikon SLR's, I've pulled the pin & dove into digital with a Nikon DSLR & 3 LENSES. Having learned from some excellent mentors how darkrooms & light meters work, digital was a leap! The lenses for the Nikon D3200 are very good, but the lens on the Canonet GIII 1.7 will make slides sharp enough for more than 100 inch enlargement for projections. It's probably just an opinion, but I like doing the processing myself, even when the computers in the DSLR try to do that for me. BTW: my film cameras are over 40 yrs. old & none of them has or needs a shutter counter!

*F3*

I've been saying for many years that the Canon AE-1 is highly overestimated. The price people have been asking for this camera is absolutely insane. The issue with the OM2sp are batteries, this is a batteries eater. Other than that, it is a lighweight, small form camera and the build quality is excellent. It feels solid in the hands. The shutter sound is a bit weird, but once you get used to it, it's not a problem. The OM-2 is also a very good camera for film streetphotography and you have an ON/OFF switch for the meter.

Is it true that the lightmeters in flathead Nikon Fs and F2s not as reliable as those in FMs?

I think the issue which you noticed with the Minolta is known as subject failure. The metering pattern will affect how the subject failure manifests itself and if you used either camera regularly in those conditions you would automatically be able to adjust the exposure settings. For a number of years I photographed rock groups using a Rolleiflex SL35ME, not a particularly great camera but I had a 85mm f1.4 Carl Zeiss lens for it. The f1.4 aperture made focusing easy in the venue. I was just use to adjusting the exposure suggested by the metering system without thinking. Had I changed to another camera, there would be a period of adjustment. So you found the AE1 meter needed less or no adjustment in the conditions you used it. That is fine but there will be other conditions where you would find the Minolta better. They are both very capable cameras, the more you use any camera, the better you will get. Personally, I really like the Rolleiflex SL35E which I think has the best ergonomics of any camera, pity too many of them were unreliable, poor build quality on the pc boards, and much that I hate to admit it, the Canon A1 is a great camera too. But even a humble Praktica Nova can turn in fantastic work, more effort and perhaps you have to bow to some limitations (no light meter, but neither does the standard Hasselblad C500 series lol). The main thing is to enjoy your photography no matter what camera you have.

As a general rule, early electronic cameras were far less reliable than the mechanical cameras. The AE1 was pretty good to be honest but people overplay this point. The Nikkormat ELW had an autowinder in 1975 a year earlier than the AE1 (at least according to Mr Google). Anyway an autowinder is a poor man's motor drive and there were plenty of motor drive cameras before the AE1. The AE1 was in my opinion over priced at the time and still is, and not particularly a great camera. The A1 was a very good camera. It was well built and produced excellent results in challenging conditions. Quite hard to praise it too much as unlike the AE1 it was constructed to very high standards and had features that Canon's competitors could not match. It was so good that at launch people were prepared to pay twice the retail to get hold of one without waiting. Yes, demand completely outstripped supply. I love the Canon EF, that was a brilliant camera, especially at the time it was launched. However, compared to the AE1 it was probably a very expensive camera to make. The real success of the AE1 was all the cost reductions which gave Canon a very profitable camera and that profit was invested into marketing making a virtuous circle of camera sales and profits. When all said and done, I did enjoy the video.

I actually reccomend the ftb ql for enthusiasts. Its a real underated sleeper. Its easily the most reliable among all the FD mount cameras. Being full mechanical, no electronics, no capacitors to fail. The QL system makes it easy to load film. And the build quality is superb, way better than the ae-1/t-50. The light meter can use alkaline 1.5v batteries. The only complaint i have is its too heavy and the focus screen is clumsy to use. Bought mine in perfect condition 60$ easily the best value camera.

I just recently gave my daughter my camera gear,a Nikon F2 w/35,50,1 05. Nikkors w/28 to 85 Tokina zoom,ass. filters after 35 y ears of casual and professional photography ,the F2 is a great camera.

Do you still use this? Would love to chat!

This was an extremely informative video. Trying to figure out this camera and you unlocked a lot of information. Thanks!

Prefer bthe x700. Have two of each. Camons both have the dreaded squeal. Both x700's are minty.

The lever to turn off the LED display is for night time long exposure to prevent light to spill over inside the viewfinder.

bro i thought this camera captures pictures in black and white

Me han regalado pronto iré a revisarla a ver qué tal está, pero aparentemente la veo muy nítida Qué película me recomiendas comprar ?

FM3a for the win.

This is off topic, but I'd like to know where the "Legacy shooters make every shot count" patch or banner might be available.

Quick question. Does the Electro 35 GSN's lens contain thorium oxide? Is it radioactive? I found a mint condition one on sale.

Im using 100mm Lee Filter system, its doingt the same function(albeit no magnetic) - but there are no flags or swing doors .. Matteboxes are matteboxes.. this is a nice very nice magmetic filmter system - thank for sharing anbd making the video..

DUUUUDE STOP TALKING --- JUST SHOW THE RESULTS AND TALK OVER THE RESULTS.. MAN..

So how do you focus it do you just guess

Is there any guide how to fix faded focus on rangefinder?

I think i am the only teen interested in film i have a fg20 lots of fun

Graham White E-Bell.

I live in the Seattle area, so I recognize some of the shots….and have an OM-2 SP as well as

Perfect! You can brew up some Caffenol while you're at it!

The thrift store sells cameras cheap Downside is they are gone within hours of getting placed. So its like a lottery.

I just inherited the A-1 from my grandpa. It's my second film camera and I'm very excited to use it ^^ Thanks for the video!

I really like the FTn, I’ve got one along with an F, F2, and F3 (amongst other non-Nikon film cameras). The biggest problem I’ve got with my FTn is the focusing screen, which is just a multiprism (no split prism). Some of the later ones came with split prisms, but I really like the look of the early ones. I did buy a replacement split prism screen on eBay, and will be having a local camera technician swap them shortly. The thing I like about the camera the most is how quiet the copal shutter is. It’s no Leica, but it’s considerably quieter than the Nikon F, F2, and F3. Not to mention that it’s a much lighter camera, as well. Overall, I’m glad I have it, and glad I have the one I have. It’s previous and original owner was a paleontologist who used it to photograph a bunch of museum specimens in the 70s, and then when he’d retired it from travel use used it as a macro rig in his own lab for years, so it’s got an awesome history

A quick search found me that on release a Canon AE-1P was probably $165 in 1981. I couldn't find a release price for the OM-2SP but the OM-2 in 1979 was listed for $515 for a chrome model. Might explain why the camera that handles nicer is less common, bet it sold way way less so theres less in the second hand market to find.

I learned on an OM-1. Love it and my OM-2 and 4Ti.

Your problem is to many adapters on a crop sensor. I would suggest trying a full frame. The Minolta adapter for full frame has no extra peice of glass and works great on my Sony full frames. I use pretty much all brands of vintage lenses on my Sony full frame with excellent results and many times as sharp or even sharper then modern lenses.

I shoot sony and use a Techart adapter (Sony E -> Leica M -> SR). No glass. Incredible results. If you’re shooting APSC, yeah, it will be a different focal length, so use a different lens if you need a 50.

I just do not get it ! I have used several analog Lenses for mirrorless cameras, I do not need adapters with glass to use those. I you need a "50mm" use a 35mm, what is the problem ! I stopped using my analog Lenses because because there is not data to the camera and I forget which Lenses I used. If a company make an adapter whit electronic contacts and you can set the adapter to tell the camera which Lens was used, then it will be great ! Did you know that it was Minolta that designed the Leica Elmarit R 24mm 2.8 Lens !

I got mine not too long ago with the same lens hood. What size lens cover do you have on yours?

I don't really understand your reasoning here. If the problem is just that your adapter is poor quality, why not just get a straight (glassless) MD - FX adapter? Or MD - LM and LM - FX adapters? If you must have a 'FF' view, then just get a cheap used mirrorless FF body with an adapter. If you must use Fuji, then I think you're being too restrictive, but you can splurge on a GFX and then adapt to that (and use the 35mm crop mode).

Why not just use a speed booster with minolta mount? I had worked fine

Adapted Rokkor rocks, don't have to pay the extorbiant prices of the popluar zeiss canon etc.

When I switched to the Nikon Z system, I been dabbling in vintage glass and less than a year I have collected bunch of lenses and it's been fun playing with them. My favorite thus far is my Nikkor-S Non-AI 35mm f/2.8 - That to me personally has look that I can't seem to get from any other lens. Its so imperfect that its perfect. I love it! Haha. I never used Minolta glass, maybe it's time to get some. Right now I just got a Fujica film camera with a X-Fujinon 50mm 1.6 and that thing is really sharp and beautiful rendering. Love seeing your videos Graham!

Graham 💪

Dear Graham, i also was in this retro lens adapting swamp. I use my fuji all the way with takumar glasses and speedbooster(different brands). But they always was little bit loosy and bulky. Only one positive thing in speedbooster its little bit resolution(also "real" focal length). I am digging myself day by day but unfortunately i know answer from beginning. So i just bought FF.😢

As mentioned in the video, the AE1 models can be fitted with an auto winder. The A1, on the other hand, can be fitted with a motor drive for even faster film advance and a better grip. The A1 also has the option of changing the focusing screen for various types of photography AND also allowing for cleaning any dust or dirt that may get behind the screen which can be distracting. Personally I’d go with the A1, but if you want more of an even better option, get a T90 which is considered to be the best manual focusing SLR ever made.

My teacher heard i was getting into film and he gifted me this camera. I am waiting on light seals to come in before i throw the first roll through it

Hi may I know which month of winter you travelled to the island ? Plan to go in late nov but the short daylight is a big challenge

Had a Mju in highschool and have been wanting to get another, until I saw the prices. Then I inherited my Grandfathers Canon Sure Shot Tele 80 and after 3 rolls in it. ( mainly all shot at 38mm ) I have to say, it's VERY good for the $$ . That being said, the prices will probably go up... And the 35RC. It's the one camera I will ALWAYS own and have loaded with some sort of 400speed color. It just shouldn't take as good of pictures as it does.

I might just be going to the wrong places, thrift stores near me don’t really have any cameras ever but every antique store has super expensive cameras, one guy was trying to sell an x700 for 200 dollars. Like none of these cameras are worth more than 100 dollars

I found a Voightländer Bessa II for $150…. They normally 6x that on eBay

If you're going "manual style" it's the FE2 and it's newer sister camera the FM3a. All bells and whistles it's the F6. There's nothing else.

Really interested in this, but how did you zone focus with it?

Many camera businesses didn’t go into digital cameras and held on to film and eventually went out of business and stored their stock in garages at home. Usually dark and damp..