Haha, sorry it took me so long to get a video out about this. I've been there too.

Yes! That was one thing I did leave out. Sanding the scratch back a bit will give you room to blend paint and clear coat (if you're using touch up paint with a separate clear coat component). I have a plan to do a video on this. I just need a vehicle to come into the shop that would make a good example.

I've never heard of Permagard. If it's a polymer-based product like ceramic coatings, my guess close to it or just as good as a ceramic coating. If you're looking at products in terms of shine, protection, or ease of maintenance, then it's anyone's game. Some coatings excel in one area and are crap in another.

Thanks! I appreciate it!

It's cliche by now but I would say use what you like and works for you the best. I use both. Sdo more than the Hdo if that helps.

It's been so long, I'm not quit sure. I lengthened the mute wire as it was too short for whatever reason. You're cutting the looped brown wire to connect into. I suppose you could pull the one end of the brown wire out of the connector but I don't remember how that was put together. Some wire connectors are easy to pull the wires out of. That brown wire on the PAC connector I cut half way that way I would have some lead wire to connect to instead of trying to rewire the connector itself.

I replaced matte vinyls on a 15 Camaro a few years ago because his son and grand kids waxed them. I've seen it so many times where people rub a spot too hard or too much and create a slightly shiny spot and ask if I can fix it.

Ceramic coatings or paint protection film. There's been a massive movement to these products since I started my shop in 2015. And it comes down to the fact that wax and sealants don't offer anything but shine. They offer no real protection from anything.

Old school, out-of-the-box thinking trick using Meguair's #7. All done by hand. Rub some all over the car, let it sit for 12 hours, buff it off the next day, then reapply and buff off without the wait until you get what you're after. I usually go until the towel are coming out a very light gray in color. It's a great technique when you don't know the history of the car, you want to preserve the original paint as much as possible, or in the case of a Corvette, you can't use a paint gauge on it so you have no idea how much paint is left which could make machine polishing deadly.

Hard to get use to the new ones. I have two clients that own the C8. Even feels way different sitting in it.

i like the raptor😎

It never actually dries. At least not over the 12 hour period it'll be on the car. It may dry if you left it for days.

@@PrecisionAutoAesthetics Howdy ! love this video as i am about to jump in on a 1981 Porsche 911 SC from California that has a bunch of oxidization to be removed . I read the entire article from Mike regarding and this is how i ended up here . The 12 hour non drying i am assuming is based on the conditioner oils in the solution. I was planning to do two applications of #7 as some area's of this poor car look like hell on toast..

I'm not even sure it would ever dry up because of the oils. It most likely would wash off first. You can do as many applications after that initial 12 hour one as you want. As you reapply it, the towels will get lighter and lighter in color as its removing less and less dirt, grime, debris embedded in the paint. You can go until you're happy... Or your arms fall off from buffing.

Yes. Unless you drop it on a dirty floor or in your driveway. The clay will pick up anything on the floor, then you'll be rubbing that against your car's paint.

@@PrecisionAutoAesthetics thanks

Just a higher concentration of the wash I use, Opti No Rinse.

I'm kind of a clay nerd, I have everything. Clay towels from Opticoat and IGL. Clay pads from Nanoskin. And traditional clay from just about anyone that makes it, Clay Magic, Buff and Shine, and even the Meguiar's clay bar from the kit they sell. I know that doesn't help. I can tell you I don't use the Clay Magic ones, they're too stiff for me to work with. Between towels and bars, they all have their pros and cons. I use them all equally just depends on the type of wash I'm doing.

I was told never to buy a white vehicle, it shows everything. My current truck is white and coated. It may show the dirt but it cleans up way too easy to care.

It's a lot more than wiper blades leaving deposits causing the embedded particles.

Spray soapy water . It proves lubricant.

I use specific clay bar lube or Optimum ONR mixed for clay lube.

Yup. Wheel coating is hands down the best thing you can do to make cleaning them easier. Especially for Mercedes wheels, they dust like crazy. This car was bad. It took multiple applications of that wheel cleaner and at least two hours to get it all off.

May I ask why? What is your experience with this product? Have you ever tried this technique before? Have you seen the results first hand? To see that no paint on the car was removed other than the dead, oxidized paint. Have you taken the time to watch my other video where I explain the process and how it works? I understand that it might seem odd to use this product in a way that doesn't seem to be intended to be used. Out of the box thinking, I guess. I'm not the only one, just seem to be the only one with a video on it on KZbin. At the time, this was only the second car I had done this on but has since done 6 more with amazing results. One of which I have a video for that will be out soon. I guess I could have just been a hack instead and taken a polisher to his car and possibly ruined the original paint. I'd say if you ever have the chance to try this. Its hard work, multiple days, but well worth it when trying to preserve original, single-stage paint.

Mate, I bought cerium oxide powder on Amazon, it works well, make sure to use a non padded microfiber disc if you're going to use powertools. I recommend Griots garage hookit pads!

Get a window cleaning/glass polishing cloth. Removes streakes

No, I didn't Chris. It's worked for me right off the bat.

Might want to check the End Screen. There's been a link to a walk-around video since this one was posted. :-D

Not at all. I've tried with a microfiber just to see and it doesn't get the same results. Microfiber is too soft, you need something a little more aggressive to dig in and pull up all the contaminates in that single stage paint. Don't forget, Megs #7 isn't a polish. If anything its more like a glaze that you would use after polishing. In this case its being used more as a cleaner though.

@@PrecisionAutoAesthetics There is no cleaners in M7. First learn what kind of product you use before you make a video.

Terry towels are fine for older paint like the Corvette he has shown. It's a single stage paint(meaning no clear coat) . It's all a matter of preference and the time you have to do the vehicle. Any (modern) car usually from 1991 and up is clear coated. Detailers usually use microfiber towels more often with a high GSM (GRAMS PER SQUARE METER) because they are softer and more plush which helps prevent scratches or swirl Marks on the clear coat. To answer the question about the microfiber and foam pads; it would be safe with a dual action polisher for a DIYER and definitely a skilled professional to polish the paint that way as long as you use very light pressure on the machines. I hope that helps and answers anything. 😁

@@chicathegreencheekconure17 He said, "being used as a cleaner". Nowhere did he say it has cleaners. Learn to comprehend what you read.