Remove it in a few hours, if you wait too long, when you remove the wrap, you could lift up some of your paint on the edges

Either way wouldn't matter much. Buying a painted piece and then repainting it could be thicker, but not enough to notice.

Yes, you need to sand primer after applying it. You may start with something rough like 320 if there is some heavy texture, but it needs to be finished in 600 before applying basecoat color.

Sometimes the pen is more obvious on a long scratch. Paint pen touchup can be seamless, but sometimes you can think of it as camouflage. If you don't like the way it looks you can just scrub the touch up paint off with acetone. Spray paint would allow you to refinish the whole panel.

You need both. Promoter helps paint bite into the plastic but it can't fill and shouldn't be sanded. If you don't use a sandable primer you can see rings where the transitions of paint to plastic meet. Primer once sanded hides the transition of old paint to bare plastic. It's really up to you and how much effort you're willing to put in. If you skip the adhesion promoter it will look fine, but may be more susceptible to chipping off later down the road. If you skip the sandable primer it won't looks as good as it could.

Automotivetouchup Thank you very much!

郑家恩 k Adaako2k2j+weekjqaiwi9 plain and

I sanded down the area I primed fairly well, but the rest of the strip was scuffed for mechanical adhesion. The whole panel was clearcoated. I didn't need to basecoat the whole panel though, I just needed to cover the entire panel and I blended out all the way to the end. You can tell on the plastic I was pulling off that the color was concentrated towards the area of damage, and it got lighter to towards the ends.

You could see at a couple shots that he did mask the adjacent panels, I thought he only clearcoated the molding in the middle and not all the way to the ends also until I watched it again, you’re right if he hadn’t masked the adjacent panels there would’ve been over spray all over them, if he hadn’t clear coated the whole molding strip you would’ve seen the new clearcoat running into old clearcoat, also pretty sure he meant the whole molding strip not the whole panel

On bare plastic? That's what you should do.

Hmmm on a modern bumper ? ie a bumper from a Kia Rio 2015, I have a deep scratch I can see black thru the dent made. I don't know if that black is plastic from the bumper or any other material

grey primer

Do not sand between coats of color or clear unless you have really bad texture or specs of dirt. At the end you can wetsand the clearcoat with 1500 and buff that out if you're after a mirror finish.

also you never say how many base coats before the clear coat you are using, and if you are heat treating to dry

On the basecoat color you spray as many as it takes for coverage, and then maybe one more coat just in case. Some colors take more coats than others, and it's impossible to really make sure my coat film build is equal to your idea of a coat without a mil gauge. I'm not heat treating to dry, but we edited out the dry time or you'd be watching a video of paint drying.

Hard to say without knowing which second you are referring to. I sanded the area, then cleaned it, then sanded the primer with 320-600.

+Automotivetouchup over spray on to your original paint and clear? And using spray cans vs spray gun?

It depends. It's best to clean the area first, and sometimes I like to fill in with some primer.

I don't recommend it due to price. Our paint is expensive because it's custom made to order to match a specific OEM color. If you're painting the whole car and don't care about color match there are cheaper alternatives. Often customers do in fact paint their entire car and for the most part all are satisfied. If you have access to an air compressor we sell low end spray guns for abut $25. If you still just want to spray paint it anyway I highly recommend a spray gun attachment tool for about $3 which saves your index finger from some heavy abuse.

Thanks for responding! Damn, an air compressor eh? I definitely care about color match, It'll urk me if it doesn't lol. I'll try my best to get a compressor. I don't have a garage, so if debris gets on the car, can I just use the tack rag to wipe it off? Really appreciate you guys responding.

If you had an air compressor I'd forego the aerosol. But if you want an exact color match I'll be your best option in an aerosol. If the debris lands on dry paint a tack rag is best, if debris lands in wet paint you can let it dry and nib sand it with very fine sandpaper. Just make sure you put another layer of basecoat before clearcoating.

Not really, but I can see how it looks that way. It's a transition from full coverage of paint, to less coverage of paint letting the old color peek through.

It really depends on what the shop is willing to do. I'll guess $300 on the low end to about $1,000 on the high end. Some bodyshops will repair a bumper and spot blend or repaint the bumper. Some shops will charge you for a new bumper and labor to replace it.

No aftermarket paint is as good as OEM with few exceptions like OEM coatings that fail prematurely. There isn't any life time spec on aerosol coatings, however our paints often repair failed OEM coatings such as delamination and clearcoat failure. While it's very easy to say it depends, I'll say that the paint job in this video outlasted the work done by the bodyshop before it. This paint job never failed and after a few years I no longer saw the owner again. I painted my own SUV bumper in one of these videos, and after a few years I traded it in before anything went wrong. One of my coworkers had the red ford spoiler, and my paint job lasted longer than the factory, which is the exception not the rule. Overall OEM paint is far superior to anything out there, but they get problems too. That car was kept for several years and eventually got traded in for mechanical problems.

Yes, you really need to wait between each coat for two reasons. I don't want the paint to get runs or sags. Multiple wet coats back to back can change the color of the paint. The solvents in the clearcoat begin to rewet/attack the basecoat and some of the pigment leaches into the clearcoat shifting the color.

Maybe $50 with all supplies on your own.

It's 3M pretaped masking film.

You'll have to sand out the damage which may cause a dimple, then use some spot putty or bumper repair and sand it back smooth before priming.

+Kevin Gentemann Prep solvent, primer, paint, clearcoat, sanding block, sand paper, and masking film with tape.

+HisXlency We sell low cost spray guns for about 25. While these do fine in real world spraying, they are considered throw away quality. The spray gun works well, but the price of the gun is cheaper than the cost of the repair parts when it does break. Devilbiss makes some decent guns for about 150. Sata is on the high end but be prepared to spend over 500.

+Buk code They are sold separately.

www.automotivetouchup.com/store/accessories/aerosol_trigger.aspx

Thanks, Have purchased one

Rustoleum is not compatible with AutomotiveTouchup. I haven't run into any problems with Upol though. Acrylic lacquer primer, acrylic urethane basecoat, and acrylic lacquer clear coat plays nicely together. An enamel based primer like the stuff I've seen from rustoleum using acrylic urethanes and clearcoats may cause failure, there would be some necessary precautions such as a recoat window that must be taken. 2K Urethane primer, base, and clear aerosol cans are available, harder to work with since they expire 24 hours after you press the red button, and more expensive but more durable.

Maybe 3 cans of each.

+Automotivetouchup What size of can?

12 oz cans.

Probably not. This Ford ZX2's spoiler paint job outlasted the car.

The technique would be not to paint in a defined line. The paint is thinner in the areas where the old paint is transitioned into the new paint.

In some cases you can get away with sanding the old paint and painting over it. It's common practice in the autobody industry on a blend panel. If the paint is in poor condition the fresh paint could lift the old paint and make it crackle which looks like alligator skin. Inthe case of lifting it would be a good idea to remove all the old paint and redo.