The second button is worth the effort just for Turrican on the Amiga. It works the same as spacebar. There is a good long list on the EAB (English Amiga Boards). Will add a link to the description, thanks for raising this.

@@benjaminsbench I spent many hours on Turrican 2 back in the day, great game.

I can't think of any Amiga games that require 2 fire buttons. I left the little red buttons disconnected and wired the 2 big buttons together for left and right handed players to use. I rewired one of these with a d-plug to use with my Amiga.

There are quite a few, added a link to a list on EAB in this video's description too. Cheers.

@@benjaminsbench The cable I got off ebay didnt have the extra fire button wire, something for people who want a cable to note.

@@JoeBlogs720 that's disappointing. Mine was from Ali-Express. All nine wires present.

​@@benjaminsbench I was surprised to find so many Amiga games adapted to e.g. jump with button 2 instead of up on the joystick. You can even jump with button 2 in Turrican II now, thanks to moving the "roll/smartbomb" action to button 3 instead of button 2. I've done a lot of testing, and e.g. the TIKUS USB to Amiga adapter makes all buttons button 1, while HID2AMI handles multiple buttons, adds a button to 'up' for unpatched games (and also switches to mouse with scrollwheel support if you plug in a mouse!) I've been at my bench too, so now I have 5 options for joysticks: 2 are Happ Controls arcade sticks with blade-switched buttons (the deluxe option), one is a converted NOS 3-button MSX joystick with autofire sold in the 80s, one is the Boomerang CD32 controller (which is crap), and one is a $9.99 SNES clone USB pad (which is better than the Boomerang). I also concluded that if you have a fave Megadrive controller, definitely go for the ready-made adapters (but make sure they support more than 2 buttons). Older pads are very small, tight, and cheaply made, sometimes for multiple systems with patches already on the PCB, which makes them risky and fiddly to buy and mod.

It does not. There is a steel ball on the bottom end of the joystick shaft that clatters around inside a box with four electrically separated sides. It is a very positive feeling stick because the stick stops moving in the same moment contact is made.

That's no good at all. The seller or manufacturer may be able to help. I'm assuming you have a good battery in it. Mine was fine, I have no idea beyond that.

Thanks for the clear explanation. I probably don’t need a surface plate but I will keep my eyes open for granite like this. Might be fun to figure out how inaccurate it is. If I can’t figure out a problem with it, I probably don’t need a better one. :)

@@gf2e Oh, you probably do need a surface plate, even if you don't know it yet. The same way everyone needs a lathe :) Headstones are often made from granite, and offcuts are cheap.

@@wibblywobblyidiotvision I feel like there is some sort of morbid connection between people getting lathes they don’t need, and tombstones. I do want a lathe, because I often want weird screws that I can’t easily find locally. Clearly, I need a Tornos :)

@@gf2e You can measure how flat the surface is with your indicator and a 'reference bar' that covers the surface's diagonals. The bar does not have to be a perfect straightedge, just straight enough to be measured within the range of your indicator. First, measure the bar's thickness variations at the ends and center with a micrometer, or by setting-up the indicator over a single point of contact in the middle of your surface and sliding the bar under the indicator. You don't need to read everywhere (just the ends and middle) and you don't need the actual thicknesses (just the variations measured with your set-up). The difference between the end readings is the bar's 'taper', and the center reading minus the average of the ends is the bar's 'bulge' (or 'neck' if it is negative). Second, support the bar on its ends and zero the indicator at the bar's center. Rotate the bar 180 degrees around the long axis, and read the indicator's change. That is your bar's 'bend'. From the bulge and the bend you can calculate the bow/sag at the center of each of the bar's surfaces. Now you can use the bar to measure the surface's bow/sag in the center, and the 'twist' between the diagonals. You can also characterise the same bar over other distances for the surface's length and width, or the sub-span of a measurement grid.

@@gf2e I find my lathe incredibly useful. One thing to do is start any project by asking yourself 'can it be round'. This is usually a new way of thinking about stuff. If the answer is yes then making it can be joyous lathe work.

Good project, it seems though that for $35 US a person can buy a joystick with the 9 Pin to USB PCB included + rapid fire. Would be good to have a converter that is configurable though. Might do another video if my expectation that the USB board inside the competition pro can be used in a project box pans out.

It is most certainly a rough look. Would not pick up a large sphere either as another commenter pointed out.

They are a nice part. Good luck with the job hunt.

Thanks for confirming that. I have purchased an ML2032 (rechargable) to put into that holder for next time I use the machine.

Have not tried it yet.

Thanks, all the episodes so far are in the playlist. Hopefully these videos add to your confidence.

I am yet to measure particularly high currents with it. I would expect it to be fine.

I hope it goes well for you :)

That sounds right.

I am not into ASMR myself, however the sounds of the keyboard cleaner sounded nice even to me. Having described it as such I am glad it meets the description.

Ten years or so :)

@@benjaminsbench You started when I was in elementary school and now i'm in college that's pretty awesome hahaha

I didn't. If I had one I would pull the lid off it :) They make nice stuff.

@@benjaminsbench there is a picture online with the lid off if you want to compare it to yours. 🔈👍🏻

It is remarkable. The instructions do recommend centering the conductor in the clamp but it is not bad regardless. The AC meters, and perhaps the AC function of this one, I do not know, have a much less difficult time of it of course :)

I prefer the big box stuff including the really slim big box shown here :) I honestly cannot say which I prefer for looks, the 1000 or 3000 case, but the keyboard garage in the A1000 makes it the winner. Thanks for taking the time to comment.

No, near Canberra

@@benjaminsbench i saw your machine on a brisbane amiga group site. Or maybe it was sombody elses. Maybe the photos or video is doing the round. Thanks for showing. I have a great personal love for the amiga. Its not the be all and endall machine. But it was a step in the right direction, and for a machine developed on a tiny budget, it is fantastic

I do not think anyone has set that up. There would be some speed issues too I am guessing. Some peripherals like network cards can be used from Amiga DOS though.

It's a perfectly cromulent word. Thanks for taking the time to spell it. kzbin.info/www/bejne/mGXUgWdodtajmMk

People ordering surface mount stuff is pretty common, not sure about through hole. I certainly understand your curiosity though!

I have never ordered a PCB but plan to. Small one to start with but maybe even some birdseed assembly on a larger one down the track. Not my designs, the Amiga community is incredible.

Hi Zoey, placed a very small order a couple of days ago. Can't wait :)

@@benjaminsbench So happy to hear that! Can't wait to hear your feedback! Will be lovely to keep in touch, may I know your email? Mine can be found under my KZbin account.🙌

:)

@@benjaminsbench 👍👍👋

Thanks, I was a novice builder when i started to be sure, now I am an advanced novice LOL

Thanks Bruce. I was just having a bit of a general rant, I am glad there was some sense in it :)