It is compatible (hot swap) with the tmc2209 v2? Or it needs some adaptions?
@ajayalathАй бұрын
dear what is the motor model number ?
@UnlimitedIdeas3dprintingАй бұрын
StepperOnline - 17HE15 - 1504S
@KerchackАй бұрын
Hi again. Can I contact you by email or some other method to ask you some questions about this project? I'm still blocked with motor movements and I don't know how to fix it =(
@UnlimitedIdeas3dprintingАй бұрын
What is you current issue that you have ?
@KerchackАй бұрын
@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting Finally, I managed to get the motors to work without skipping steps. The previous MKS DLC 32 v2.1 board seemed to be faulty. Now, the problem I have is that the motors only move in one direction; I haven’t been able to make them move in both directions, either through the configuration or by connecting the cables in a different order. Currently, the cables connected to the motors are as follows, with the wire colors from left to right: Cable connected to the motors: black - green - blue - red Cable connected to the board: red - blue - green - black
@UnlimitedIdeas3dprintingАй бұрын
@@Kerchack Great to hear you’re making progress. Did you get a chance to test and verify the stepper motor wiring to ensure the coil pairs are correctly aligned? I have another video about stepper motor wiring that might be helpful-feel free to check it out! Also, could you share the model of your stepper motors? That might help narrow down the issue. 😊
@Kerchack25 күн бұрын
@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting Thanks for your support; it helps me tons! Now I have al inputs plugged correctly (step motors, screen, MKS DLC32 board and 40W laser). My laser has only one 3 pin connection (red-black-yellow) but when trying to check laser, it doesn't work. I've checked board config and laser is enabled. What can I solve this? If you want to contact me, we can talk in other type of channels like DIscord if you have it. Thank you one more time.
@DevtaVaastu3 ай бұрын
where is 3d Printed files?
@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting3 ай бұрын
You can find the updated 3D printed files in my GitHub repo, which is linked in the description. Check under the 'MokeyLaser_v1.1/Updated' folder for the changes!
@yasinrezaei49553 ай бұрын
من ک فک نمیکنم ایرانی باشه
@diegoperez-zf8rc3 ай бұрын
Excuse me, what are the specifications of the power supply you used?
@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting3 ай бұрын
Choosing the right power supply depends on the specific components of your setup, particularly the laser diode. The MKS DLC 32 can support up to a 20W laser diode, which at 12V would require around 1.67A (20W / 12V ≈ 1.67A). For the Nema 17 stepper motors, the power usage can vary, but assuming each motor uses around 4.8W, and you have 5 of them, you would need approximately 2A (5 motors * 4.8W / 12V ≈ 2A). In total, for the laser diode and the stepper motors, you would need a power supply that can provide at least 3.67A (1.67A for the laser diode + 2A for the stepper motors). However, to be on the safe side, I would recommend using a power supply with a minimum of 5A to ensure stable operation and to account for any additional power needs. Personally, I am using an overkill 12V 30A power supply. This power supply not only powers my laser engraver but also two 20W LED lamps under my desk. If my calculations are correct, this setup should be more than sufficient for your needs. Please feel free to correct me if I've missed anything or if you have any further questions!
@nabilaldhaleai52133 ай бұрын
How about if you have two Z axis motors, do we need a Y harness then connect it to the Z axis pins ?
@nagamanihegde96093 ай бұрын
hi.. can you make pen holder for this plotter? or did you find any stl for pen holder
@UnlimitedIdeas3dprintingАй бұрын
Interesting I like the idea, I am going to try make for it :) ;)
@nagamanihegde9609Ай бұрын
@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting thks man ❤️
@Intervaloverdose3 ай бұрын
Thankyou for confirming driver orientation ie. which way around for en/gnd, as I could not find that info anywhere else!
@Laughroomhub3 ай бұрын
Can cutting 3mm foam sheet and 3mm cardboard
@ReynoldsYvonne-z8v3 ай бұрын
Ward Trafficway
@fellpower4 ай бұрын
U need a better microphone - and speak a little bit cleaner. some things i cant understand ^^
@jonmcgrath37484 ай бұрын
Maybe I missed it, but some brands and links would have been nice to have!! I'm sifting through Amazon right now and there are about 1,000 different hotends, heatbreaks, etc.
@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting4 ай бұрын
I added some links in the description as a suggestion
@jonmcgrath37484 ай бұрын
@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting Thank you, I'm not sure if it matters, but all of the heatbreaks I've seen are either 1-2mm shorter or 0.5-1mm longer - really frustrating that none of the sellers even mention the Neptune! How is your printer working with PLA? I've seen some complaints about "heat creep" causing more issues than before. I just need something reliable that gets used 15+ hours almost every day.
@tsmlima4 ай бұрын
Can you share the tapping guide link from thingiverse with us, please? Thanks!
@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting4 ай бұрын
Links have been added to the description.
@lucianomoraes49625 ай бұрын
Gostei muito do seu projeto, tenho uma impressora 3d vou tentar inovar e tentar fazer uma maquina dessa, obrigado por compartilhar seu projeto.
@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting4 ай бұрын
Thank you!!!
@lucianomoraes49625 ай бұрын
Caro amigo tem esse gabarito de fazer rosca no projeto tbm?
@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting4 ай бұрын
links added to the description
@garyblackwood94595 ай бұрын
Hi the STL file for the case for the controller in your GITHUB doesn't have the holes for USB, SDCard etc unlike the one in the video.
@SianaGearz6 ай бұрын
This installation direction is bad, since you're working against gravity. The spring is pushing up on the gantry, but the gantry's gravitational force is larger than the maximum spring force. If you have any possible real backlash because the Z axis is riding up occasionally due to say unevenness of wheels or rail surface, this installation direction will only exacerbate the issue slightly rather than help solve it.
@darkvalek6666 ай бұрын
my friend, where i can find the stl for this upgrade?
@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting6 ай бұрын
Description Updated ;)
@darkvalek6666 ай бұрын
@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting thanks for your answer, greetings from Colombia
@UPXMail6 ай бұрын
problem wirh talking?
@jmwetterene74596 ай бұрын
merci pour cette vidéo
@themosesch6 ай бұрын
Thanks for guiding me through the upgrade. It was extremely helpful
@Kerchack7 ай бұрын
Hi again and thank you for this great project instructions. I'm actually working on step motor configuration. Could you please copy & paste your configuration under dlc_cfg.txt file from MKS DLC 32 firmware? I have 2 issues with step motors: - Step motors only turn in one direction - Step motors jump steps; maybe caused by high speed configuration. Thank you again for all
@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting7 ай бұрын
Hi again! I've copied the configuration values from my dlc_cfg.txt file for the MKS DLC 32 firmware below. Hopefully, these settings can $0=6 $1=25 $2=0 $3=5 $4=0 $5=1 $6=0 $10=1 $11=0.010 $12=0.002 $13=0 $20=0 $21=1 $22=1 $23=5 $24=300.000 $25=1000.000 $26=250.000 $27=1.000 $28=1000.000 $30=1000.000 $31=0.000 $32=1 $50=0 $38=0 $40=1 $100=80.000 $101=80.000 $102=80.000 $103=100.000 $104=100.000 $105=100.000 $110=6000.000 $111=6000.000 $112=6000.000 $113=1000.000 $114=1000.000 $115=1000.000 $120=500.000 $121=500.000 $122=500.000 $123=200.000 $124=200.000 $125=200.000 $130=450.000 $131=450.000 $132=50.000 $133=300.000 $134=300.000 $135=300.000 Regarding your issues with the step motors: Step motors only turn in one direction: This might be due to the direction invert mask setting ($3). In my configuration, it is set to 5. Make sure that matches your hardware setup. Step motors jump steps: This could be related to high speed settings. You might want to try lowering the maximum rate ($110, $111, $112) and acceleration ($120, $121, $122) settings to see if that stabilizes the movement. Feel free to adjust these settings and see if they help with your issues. Let me know if you need any more assistance! Best of luck with your project!
@Kerchack7 ай бұрын
Could you also please note what power supply are you using for board and Nesa 17 motors? Watts and amperes 😊
@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting7 ай бұрын
@@Kerchack Choosing the right power supply depends on the specific components of your setup, particularly the laser diode. The MKS DLC 32 can support up to a 20W laser diode, which at 12V would require around 1.67A (20W / 12V ≈ 1.67A). For the Nema 17 stepper motors, the power usage can vary, but assuming each motor uses around 4.8W, and you have 5 of them, you would need approximately 2A (5 motors * 4.8W / 12V ≈ 2A). In total, for the laser diode and the stepper motors, you would need a power supply that can provide at least 3.67A (1.67A for the laser diode + 2A for the stepper motors). However, to be on the safe side, I would recommend using a power supply with a minimum of 5A to ensure stable operation and to account for any additional power needs. Personally, I am using an overkill 12V 30A power supply. This power supply not only powers my laser engraver but also two 20W LED lamps under my desk. If my calculations are correct, this setup should be more than sufficient for your needs. Please feel free to correct me if I've missed anything or if you have any further questions!
@Kerchack6 ай бұрын
@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting Thank you so much! I've got another question for you. I'm still having issues with step motors but I think it is related to board micro-step settings. For a TMC2209 driver what is the switch configuration for M0 - M1... Thank you in advance.
@blackpoolbootz27907 ай бұрын
My next upgrade. Done dual z a couple of weeks ago :-)
@roberthosking75248 ай бұрын
Do I need the display to test this or can I control it with a laptop?
@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting8 ай бұрын
If you are using makerbase FIRMWARE you need to have the display but if you install FIRMWARE you dont need to have the display ;)
@roberthosking75248 ай бұрын
@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting I installed Open Builds Control software and it immediately recognized the card and allowed me to control it with my laptop. I never hooked up a dosplay to the board.
@purpleocean772123 күн бұрын
@@roberthosking7524 Did you connect to Open Build with a cable or WiFi?
@seoulborn678 ай бұрын
Could you put a link to where you are getting your printed parts or what parts you are printing? I'm not good a making my own models, yet.
@Kerchack8 ай бұрын
Where can you get the stl that holds the timing belt? Thank you for sharing this great project.
@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting8 ай бұрын
if you are asking about "Belt Tensioner" the link it is in the description ;)
hey thanks for the videos! I've been using them to help me upgrade my Neptune X and Im about to do this mod, question however, do you have a video or link for the fan wiring harness? I assume you basically made one that can take 3 fan inputs and plug into one header
@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting8 ай бұрын
Thanks for reaching out, and I'm glad to hear that the videos have been helpful for your Neptune X upgrade journey! As for the fan wiring harness, while I don't have a separate video or link for it, I did include some explanations starting from around the 3:00-minute mark in the video. Hopefully, that gives you some insight into how to create one. If you need any more assistance or clarification, just let me know-I'm here to help! ;)
@DracoDragon3698 ай бұрын
@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting Thank you so much! Ok I can def do this harness, i was skimming to the bl touch setup which is why i missed it. What gauge wire are you using?
@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting8 ай бұрын
I used 22 AWG 2-pin wire, which I happened to have on hand. :)
@blackpoolbootz27908 ай бұрын
Great video. Might try this upgrade to my 2s looking forward to follow up video.
Здравствуйте, поделитесь пожалуйста файлами для печати, тоже хочу собрать такой гравёр
@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting8 ай бұрын
Links are in the description ;)
@James_Cook_Explorer9 ай бұрын
Amazing design. I'll try to build one for myself. Thank you for sharing this project
@Tank_6610 ай бұрын
thanks
@musaaftabi626910 ай бұрын
dadash . let us know how to calibrate the axis. you didnt mentioned it in the video. could you please tell me your phone number so i need to ask some questions.
@AbdullahKhan-cu5no10 ай бұрын
Which type of supply you have used for the mks dlc. Please can you tell me about that
@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting8 ай бұрын
In this video, for my testing, I used a 12V 3A power supply. However, for regular usage, I require a 12V 30A power supply, which is overkill. I need to mention that I am using this power supply to light two 20W lamps. ;)
@johnlocke348111 ай бұрын
Can't get this to work for the life of me. I get all the way to the end, but the wifi screen on the Neptune always shows "TP-LINK_MKS" as the Wifi network, and STA disconnected as the status. Cannot get it to work. I'm using the bigtreetech mks module which for some reason has the colored connector rails reversed, but I assumed that BTT is wrong, so I based my connection on orienting the onboard chip correctly.... I have another chip brand coming tomorrow. Hopefully that's the issue. Frustrating.
@sookieandbunty-thetwodoods500511 ай бұрын
I am thinking of building this to replace my "3018 CNC" based laser - out of interest what is the maximum speed you are getting, i.e. your $110 and $111 settings? Thanks
@ww410211 ай бұрын
I'm using cheap bimetal heatbreak for a few weeks with enclosed printer (ikea lack enclosure). It works great as long as I keep the front acrylic door of my enclosure open. Once I closed the door, I get heat creap in less than 5 minutes, end print will fail. That is with Petg. Abs works incredibly well, specially if door is closed, but I don't like the fumes. Do you have any idea for fan (or fan mount) upgrade, for better cooling of the heatsink?
@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting11 ай бұрын
Your observation makes a lot of sense! When the temperature increases inside the enclosure, it affects the heat sink's performance by reducing its ability to dissipate heat due to the warm airflow. This, in turn, causes heat creep up to the heat break, leading to print failures. In the meantime, I'd suggest adjusting the retraction settings from 5mm to 2mm, especially if you have a direct drive setup. This might help alleviate some of the heat creep issues.😊
@ww410211 ай бұрын
@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting yes, I'll do more experiments now with the retractions settings. I just printed something in vase/spiral mode with 2mm retraction, and for first time I got big filament blobs/bubles at random spots of the print. Maybe it was due to something else. I really messed up my retraction settings, I though I was using 2mm all the time, but it was set on 5mm last time I checked, so now I'll have to experiment. I'm still using bowden setup. Thanks again, I really appreciate your answer.
@amoosezar11 ай бұрын
Khodaaaaaa
@Mrmath7611 ай бұрын
Hello friend🎉 Can this machine cut mdf and acrylic or it just for engraving?
@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting11 ай бұрын
Hello! The machine's capability to cut through MDF and acrylic depends on the laser head used. Higher power laser heads can cut through thicker materials. For instance, a 10W laser head can cut an 8mm MDF with 2-3 passes, while a 40W laser head can typically cut it in a single pass.
@Mrmath7611 ай бұрын
@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting thanks bro I like your channel you're the best❤
@hammoudaadel268011 ай бұрын
Is this bord suitable for 90 watt laser module??
@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting11 ай бұрын
Most likely, you can use the MKS-DLC32 board for a 90-watt laser module, but it requires an external power supply and a daughter board in between. It's important to note that this board supports up to 20W, so for the 90W laser, you'll need an additional power board. Please be aware that the wattage mentioned refers to the input power, not the actual power output from the laser head.
@Wbmfishman111 ай бұрын
Where do you order the hardware to do this?
@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting11 ай бұрын
I made the purchase on Amazon, but you may also check AliExpress for the same item.
@amirmohammadmovahhedi8975 Жыл бұрын
Hello. What power supply did you use for 3 step motors and a 3 amp laser?? How many amperes was the power supply?
@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting11 ай бұрын
For initial tests, I used a 12V 3A power supply. However, for extended use, I upgraded to a 12V 30A power supply. It might be an overkill, as a 10A supply is sufficient for the 20W consumption of the laser head.
@lovemytechy Жыл бұрын
looking forward to your moded files what would estimate the cost of this unit be , would it be upgradable to 20W or more? also have you seen any project with CNC laser and perhaps 3d printer all in one.. since they all use the same frame and motor and just need different heads for CNC, laser or 3d extruder
@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting11 ай бұрын
Thank you for your interest! I'm currently working on providing modified files. As for the cost estimation, I'll include that in my upcoming video. I've successfully tested 20W and 40W laser heads on this unit. However, to control a laser head with power exceeding 20W, a daughter board and an external power supply are required. Your suggestion about attaching a CNC head (spindle) is excellent, but it would involve some modifications. The current version lacks the ability to move the head up and down, a crucial feature for CNC. Additionally, the firmware would need adjustment to accommodate the different functionalities.
@lovemytechy11 ай бұрын
@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting the ultimate machine would have the 3D printer, CNC and 40w laser all in one.. the 40W laser is exciting looking forward to your next video
@RandomStrangerNumber98 Жыл бұрын
Thanks! This has been helpful.
@ww4102 Жыл бұрын
very interesting, thanks for well explained video
@mary_coelho Жыл бұрын
❤❤
@kerrycorcoran4885 Жыл бұрын
I performed this upgrade, however my printer is not properly utilzing the Z Offset. I perform the leveling, it goes to the center and I adjust the Z Offset (to barely allow the paper to pass between the printhead and the heatbed. I then load a test print and it is obvious the Z Offset adjustment is NOT applied as the printhead is scratching the heatbed. Any ideas?
@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting Жыл бұрын
Hello! It seems like there might be a discrepancy in the Z Offset adjustment. To address this, manually adding up to 0.2mm to the current offset. This should bring the nozzle up to the correct level. Sometimes, issues like this can arise as the Z Offset distance matures or changes over time. Give this adjustment a try, and it should help prevent the printhead from scratching the heatbed during your prints. If the problem persists, consider recalibrating or checking for any other factors that might be affecting the Z Offset. Hope this helps!
@viralbull8085 Жыл бұрын
Did you find a solution, I have the same problem but in the opposite direction, mine doesn't touch the bed on the first layer and just slightly hovers above the bed. Seems like some sort of bug, I am planning to re flash the firmware I just need an SD card