Description Updated ;)

@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting thanks for your answer, greetings from Colombia

Hi again! I've copied the configuration values from my dlc_cfg.txt file for the MKS DLC 32 firmware below. Hopefully, these settings can $0=6 $1=25 $2=0 $3=5 $4=0 $5=1 $6=0 $10=1 $11=0.010 $12=0.002 $13=0 $20=0 $21=1 $22=1 $23=5 $24=300.000 $25=1000.000 $26=250.000 $27=1.000 $28=1000.000 $30=1000.000 $31=0.000 $32=1 $50=0 $38=0 $40=1 $100=80.000 $101=80.000 $102=80.000 $103=100.000 $104=100.000 $105=100.000 $110=6000.000 $111=6000.000 $112=6000.000 $113=1000.000 $114=1000.000 $115=1000.000 $120=500.000 $121=500.000 $122=500.000 $123=200.000 $124=200.000 $125=200.000 $130=450.000 $131=450.000 $132=50.000 $133=300.000 $134=300.000 $135=300.000 Regarding your issues with the step motors: Step motors only turn in one direction: This might be due to the direction invert mask setting ($3). In my configuration, it is set to 5. Make sure that matches your hardware setup. Step motors jump steps: This could be related to high speed settings. You might want to try lowering the maximum rate ($110, $111, $112) and acceleration ($120, $121, $122) settings to see if that stabilizes the movement. Feel free to adjust these settings and see if they help with your issues. Let me know if you need any more assistance! Best of luck with your project!

Could you also please note what power supply are you using for board and Nesa 17 motors? Watts and amperes 😊

@@Kerchack Choosing the right power supply depends on the specific components of your setup, particularly the laser diode. The MKS DLC 32 can support up to a 20W laser diode, which at 12V would require around 1.67A (20W / 12V ≈ 1.67A). For the Nema 17 stepper motors, the power usage can vary, but assuming each motor uses around 4.8W, and you have 5 of them, you would need approximately 2A (5 motors * 4.8W / 12V ≈ 2A). In total, for the laser diode and the stepper motors, you would need a power supply that can provide at least 3.67A (1.67A for the laser diode + 2A for the stepper motors). However, to be on the safe side, I would recommend using a power supply with a minimum of 5A to ensure stable operation and to account for any additional power needs. Personally, I am using an overkill 12V 30A power supply. This power supply not only powers my laser engraver but also two 20W LED lamps under my desk. If my calculations are correct, this setup should be more than sufficient for your needs. Please feel free to correct me if I've missed anything or if you have any further questions!

@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting Thank you so much! I've got another question for you. I'm still having issues with step motors but I think it is related to board micro-step settings. For a TMC2209 driver what is the switch configuration for M0 - M1... Thank you in advance.

If you are using makerbase FIRMWARE you need to have the display but if you install FIRMWARE you dont need to have the display ;)

@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting I installed Open Builds Control software and it immediately recognized the card and allowed me to control it with my laptop. I never hooked up a dosplay to the board.

if you are asking about "Belt Tensioner" the link it is in the description ;)

@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting yeah, that's it! Thank you!

Thanks for reaching out, and I'm glad to hear that the videos have been helpful for your Neptune X upgrade journey! As for the fan wiring harness, while I don't have a separate video or link for it, I did include some explanations starting from around the 3:00-minute mark in the video. Hopefully, that gives you some insight into how to create one. If you need any more assistance or clarification, just let me know-I'm here to help! ;)

@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting Thank you so much! Ok I can def do this harness, i was skimming to the bl touch setup which is why i missed it. What gauge wire are you using?

I used 22 AWG 2-pin wire, which I happened to have on hand. :)

i'm liking this too for mine!

Links are in the description ;)

In this video, for my testing, I used a 12V 3A power supply. However, for regular usage, I require a 12V 30A power supply, which is overkill. I need to mention that I am using this power supply to light two 20W lamps. ;)

Your observation makes a lot of sense! When the temperature increases inside the enclosure, it affects the heat sink's performance by reducing its ability to dissipate heat due to the warm airflow. This, in turn, causes heat creep up to the heat break, leading to print failures. In the meantime, I'd suggest adjusting the retraction settings from 5mm to 2mm, especially if you have a direct drive setup. This might help alleviate some of the heat creep issues.😊

@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting yes, I'll do more experiments now with the retractions settings. I just printed something in vase/spiral mode with 2mm retraction, and for first time I got big filament blobs/bubles at random spots of the print. Maybe it was due to something else. I really messed up my retraction settings, I though I was using 2mm all the time, but it was set on 5mm last time I checked, so now I'll have to experiment. I'm still using bowden setup. Thanks again, I really appreciate your answer.

Most likely, you can use the MKS-DLC32 board for a 90-watt laser module, but it requires an external power supply and a daughter board in between. It's important to note that this board supports up to 20W, so for the 90W laser, you'll need an additional power board. Please be aware that the wattage mentioned refers to the input power, not the actual power output from the laser head.

I made the purchase on Amazon, but you may also check AliExpress for the same item.

For initial tests, I used a 12V 3A power supply. However, for extended use, I upgraded to a 12V 30A power supply. It might be an overkill, as a 10A supply is sufficient for the 20W consumption of the laser head.

Hello! It seems like there might be a discrepancy in the Z Offset adjustment. To address this, manually adding up to 0.2mm to the current offset. This should bring the nozzle up to the correct level. Sometimes, issues like this can arise as the Z Offset distance matures or changes over time. Give this adjustment a try, and it should help prevent the printhead from scratching the heatbed during your prints. If the problem persists, consider recalibrating or checking for any other factors that might be affecting the Z Offset. Hope this helps!

Unfortunately, the Elegoo Neptune2S does not have the capability to directly connect to a camera. However, you can utilize external sources such as a Raspberry Pi or other cameras specifically designed for this purpose. Stay tuned, as I may create a video tutorial on how to set up this connection!

Absolutely! The bi-metal heatbreak was a game-changer for me-it's a must-have upgrade. As for PETG, no issues at all; I've been consistently getting great results with it.

​@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprintingthanks, I'm gratefull that you replied. You convinced me, I will order one tommorow. I'm reading reddit and various sources, but couldn't get the answers I was looking for. Do you use something like Slice Engineering or more generic type of bimetal heatbreak? Sorry if I missed that in your video. You think it could work well with a hardened steel nozzle for petg? Thanks again, and sorry for too many questions.

@@ww4102 No problem at all! I personally use a generic bi-metal heatbreak and haven't faced any issues. While Slice Engineering is known for high-quality products, a generic one has worked well for me. And yes, a hardened steel nozzle is a great choice, offering longevity. Although PETG isn't highly abrasive, the hardened steel nozzle adds extra durability to your setup.

@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting I couldn't find those answers anywhere. I believe most of the negative opinions about bimetal heatbreaks are user error, but you're showing how to do it right. Your videos are reliable source of information, instead of being some entertaining bullshit.

finally I find some times to have more adjustments, shortly I am going to release my changes ;)

You can find the original GitHub link in the description; however, I have made some improvements in certain parts, and I will be sharing them with you very soon.

@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting Is there a full materials list?

@@UnlimitedIdeas3dprinting Hello, how are you? Did you share the improvements anywhere? Thanks!

Hi, You can find the module in Amazon or Aliexpress look for "MKS Robin WIFI module V1.1" it has green pin header, if you follow the video and still you have issue please let me know

The MKS-DLC32 is an offline engraving master control kit developed for desktop engraving machines. The hardware is equipped with a 32-bit high-speed ESP32 module, integrated WIFI function, and it is supporting GRBL, usually board is coming with CNC firmware you need to update it

the MKS DLC32 is capable of running standalone. You can copy GRBL files to the microSD card for engraving.