DANNY C

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@sam0tech 23 күн бұрын

It stills whippl a little bit

@DClarke1954 23 күн бұрын

Oh really? I've seen worse, and it is certainly not an issue. Some of what you see is the fact that the cassette is not a tight fit on the carrier; the rest is insignificant.

@RonBateman-vl2wz 23 күн бұрын

What purpose did this video serve???????

@DClarke1954 23 күн бұрын

It was to show a remote party that I had managed to overcome the failure of the rotary broach holder to act as it should. The toolholder (advertised as being for rotary broaching) did NOT incorporate a 1-degree offset. I had to make a holder instead of mounting it in the tailstock chuck and manually set an offset in order to get it to work. Why do you care?

@polarbearchimney 24 күн бұрын

Great work on the alignment! Just wondering-why didn’t you go for a 13mm hex-bar? I heard they naturally align themselves better due to their extra millimeter of torque leverage. Seems like it could’ve saved you some welding effort!

@DClarke1954 24 күн бұрын

Hi, I went for 12mm because that is the pre-made hex-hole that exists in the cassette carriers ratchet assemblies. It seemed easier to have it common on both sides. Theirs is perfectly formed and part of their expensive production machining. I am just replicating this on the LH side with a rotary broach. Then they are common, and I can use a 12mm bar as an alignment tool. Made sense to me. 🙂

@polarbearchimney 24 күн бұрын

@@DClarke1954 Thanks for explaining! That makes sense for standardization, but wouldn’t using a 13mm hex-bar offset the broaching angle slightly, creating a natural preload effect on the alignment? I read somewhere that this can improve torque harmonics, especially with rotary assemblies. Just wondering if that’s something you’ve accounted for.

@mikemelbrooks 25 күн бұрын

I dont mean to teach you how to suck eggs but, If you add more 8mm nuts to the end it should run truer. PS some freehubs are made of alluminium, you could probably turn the bore down to make it a better fit on the shaft, and instead of welding it secure it with a grub screw!

@DClarke1954 25 күн бұрын

Yes, it was just a simple alignment test. There is a 12mm AF brass bar in the middle aligning the 2 output sides of the 2 freewheels for welding. It gets removed after welding and then the 2 half-shafts are inserted on either side. Normally such units are >£200-400 but this has cost <£50 :)

@martinkiszel8903 27 күн бұрын

It's a hole not a keyway.

@DClarke1954 27 күн бұрын

True, but it's the way that the driveshaft is keyed. In a similar vein Our Butcher gets stroppy if you ask for 6 slices of bacon. He says "Its rashers Sir, rashers". Then you ask him what is that machine that produces these then, and he admits it is a "Bacon-slicer", so slices of bacon would be mostly correct. ;)

@jamesbigglesworth4677 Ай бұрын

On a bike I think it woudl throw the chain.

@DClarke1954 Ай бұрын

Hi James, yeah I was unhappy with it. It has been separated and an alignment jig will be made before we redo it. 🙂

@skysurferuk Ай бұрын

Would have been more useful if you'd've supplied a link.

@DClarke1954 Ай бұрын

Sorry to hear your powers of searching are diminished my young padawan. Try searching for "ViaGasaFamido Unpowered Spindle Assembly High Precision DIY Woodworking Cutting Grinding Table Drill Accessory with B10 Drill Chuck M10 Shaft Sleeve" on amazon.

@ekologiskmat4380 Ай бұрын

pretty sick

@DClarke1954 Ай бұрын

The "purchased parts were awful except for the Sanou chuck & shaft. Issues were: 1. Supplied bearings did not fit in the block. 2. Shaft did not fit in any 10mm bearing (oversize) so had to be ground down with emery cloth and oil. But it all got sorted in the end. and it works well.

@hectordeleon7859 Ай бұрын

I have a vevor 8x14 lathe that I believe is the same thing as the mx. could you say what kind of belt you have

@DClarke1954 Ай бұрын

The answer is to be found in the comments below. It has been answered many times. :-)

@paul-hill 7 ай бұрын

Will be interesting to see when you get the wheels on the cranks.

@DClarke1954 7 ай бұрын

It might be a fairly narrow track! 🙂 A key feature is that you can really only have the trailing rear wheel with a brake. The i-Lean provides an automatic rear suspension as it halves all the bumps (for some context see Renault 16). But you will have a trike that wants to (and can) corner like a bike. 😀

@paul-hill 7 ай бұрын

@@DClarke1954 Yes I have the iLean video. I tried to make it too but ran out of steam :)

@jangonda4837 9 ай бұрын

I presume this meant to be a tricycle, but you didn't design it very well as you have to havr a rear differential on the axle shaft. As you probably know when going to the corners one wheel is turning quicker than the other therefore you need to have a diff or have sprocket only on one wheel and have the other freely spinning both directions like the pedaling go karts have. Hope this helps.

@DClarke1954 9 ай бұрын

Well how surprising! That is exactly what that is. A rear differential built from 2 Sturmey Archer freewheel hubs. Each wheel has its own independently driven half-shaft. Perhaps if you asked questions instead of making pronouncement/judgments that would have been better? I designed it exceptionally well, thank you. In fact it is better than a differential because a differential can put all the power to the wheel with the most grip. This simple home-made device provides the ability for the outside wheel in any turn (Left or Right) to run faster than the inside wheel. The rider's/motor's power always goes to the wheel with the most grip. Don't be so quick to judge something you have no idea about. ;-)

@skudwoofer 9 ай бұрын

enjoyed the vid!

@adrian_zombturtle148 10 ай бұрын

So only one wheel is conected to the pedals ?

@DClarke1954 10 ай бұрын

Yes. it is 1WD. They do an option with 2WD but it is very expensive and they are a bit fragile.

@sweeney37 9 ай бұрын

How did you find the ride ?

@COACTUSFECI75 11 ай бұрын

damn.... you made this tilting backwheel? buy your self? wow...nice... the same design i want for my reverse trike ,cut the back and weld such frame as yours without tilt effekt...what would it cost if you weld a backframe...to make my trike to quad

@paul-hill Жыл бұрын

Don't use it. It makes you cough when you run it 🙂

@DClarke1954 Жыл бұрын

Been a bit unwell lately.

@davel2734 Жыл бұрын

Good video. The bike looks great!

@DClarke1954 Жыл бұрын

Thanks. It sold for £300, and the buyer was very pleased.

@tubeularvids Жыл бұрын

I’m Danny C also from New York

@tonynmilo Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the info, I have the exact same lathe as you and my belt just snapped. The belt lasted over a year with no teeth on it due to the head stock bearings failing after a couple of months, I changed the bearings to sealed angular contact bearings and it transformed the lathe.

@666chunky1 Жыл бұрын

Danny, can you let me know where you got the belt from as I have a similar issue, thank you

@DClarke1954 Жыл бұрын

All the details are in the comments already Martin, you will find it if you look.

@paul-hill Жыл бұрын

I have a 5 speed and it ticks all the time when peddling. I found it annoying and just hope you don't have it in an 8 speed too.

@DClarke1954 Жыл бұрын

The 8 Speed is noisier than the 5 Speed by far! 😀 The various sets of pawls produce sounds ranging from the Tick-Tick Tick of the old 3-speed to a swarm of angry wasps. It varies with whichever gear you are in. Some are quieter/noisier than others. It is one of the things people love/hate about them.

@imetr8r Жыл бұрын

I just bought the same lathe with the same problem. Did you ever find the fix? Also, the Operator's "Manual" sent with the machine has no useful information, save safety tips, which buttons are the on and off, and an incomplete set of specifications (they don't even spec the motor's power or voltage). Have you located a manual with lubrication tables and adjustment procedures?

@DClarke1954 Жыл бұрын

If you read through all the comments you will find the answer you are looking for. The motor mounting needs to be adjustable and a slightly longer belt really helps. For general "how to care for" go look at "little machine shop" on the web. HTH.

@aspecialtrino 2 жыл бұрын

Hello I have the same lathe. Can you make threads? I can't fillet.

@DClarke1954 2 жыл бұрын

Yes, thread cutting is OK I have done 24tpi threading. I don't know what you mean by "fillet". The other operation I have managed is "cut-off" by using a blade upside down and running the motor in reverse.

@ttexastt 2 жыл бұрын

I ordered this lathe and expect it as soon as tomorrow. Ill know to inspect the belt especially. Did you have issues finding the belt & how much larger did you go. Appreciate you taking the time to post this.

@DClarke1954 2 жыл бұрын

Not all of them have the defect that prevents the adjustment of the motor position which results in the "over-tight" belt. I looked online for a belt of similar/same tooth patterning and bought a selection of them to see what might work. The one that worked for me came from Bolton Engineering and was a 475-5M-09 timing belt. Others have said I am using the wrong belt, but this is still on there, still working and giving mr no problems. 🙂

@poolhub8-9 10 ай бұрын

@@DClarke1954 👍

@malcolmkempster7858 2 жыл бұрын

Where do you get the belts from ?

@DClarke1954 2 жыл бұрын

Answer is already in the comments Malcolm. I am told the belt I selected /chose is "wrong" by another commenter, but it seems to work fine for me, so I shall stick with it.

@DClarke1954 2 жыл бұрын

I looked it up for you Malcolm.... Oh gosh, now you are asking. :) I tried several before I found one that fit properly. I think it was From Bolton Engineering Products and was Stock Code 475-5M-09 bepltd.com/products/475-5m-09-htd-5m-timing-belt-475mm-long-x-9mm-wide is what I have used.

@tonydiesel3444 2 жыл бұрын

It needs to be rather tight not to slip with the correct belt size

@DClarke1954 2 жыл бұрын

Hi Tony, Maybe my belt is wrong, but.... It isn't shredded (unlike the one originally supplied), the bearings are not overheating (because the belt isn't far too tight), and the lathe doesn't stall and strip the belt teeth. So it cannot be so terribly wrong (IMHO). Could you provide a part number and a source for a more appropriate belt in order to help everyone else please? Cheers! :)

@tonydiesel3444 2 жыл бұрын

That is a incorrect belt the correct size is 9.5 mm 4.7 95 teeth metric belt

@tadhasse Жыл бұрын

To be a touch more specific, it is an M1.5 x 10mm x 94 tooth

@poolhub8-9 10 ай бұрын

@@tadhasse 👍

@edcammarata6430 2 жыл бұрын

Got one of these, had the noise, after removing all The gears,noise was still there A clicking every couple of chuck rotations. Net result Bad Timing Belt, a few teeth Missing hear and there. Would be much better with a v drive belt ,mush quieter and Can slip on a overload if it has to set up properly. It true the gears don't aline good, might Say there a little funky

@DClarke1954 2 жыл бұрын

As you can see, they ship them with a belt too small and too tight, so they strip teeth. Since I revised mine and put a longer belt on, no stripped teeth and no problems. :D

@malcolmkempster7858 2 жыл бұрын

Danny where did you obtain your new belt from ?

@DClarke1954 2 жыл бұрын

Oh gosh, now you are asking. :) I tried several before I found one that fit properly. I think it was From Bolton Engineering Products and was Stock Code 475-5M-09 bepltd.com/products/475-5m-09-htd-5m-timing-belt-475mm-long-x-9mm-wide

@haywoodchablomi8037 2 жыл бұрын

Looks like your shaft is bent on the leadscrew at the gear. You can see it moving back and forth in the video.

@DClarke1954 2 жыл бұрын

Yes, it did have a bit of a "wobble". It is resolved now. But the mis-alignment of the various gears is still an issue. with some of them only 1/2 overlapping each other.

@rolandaslatvys22 2 жыл бұрын

@@DClarke1954 hi. how did you sorted leadscrew issue please? Great video btw.

@DClarke1954 2 жыл бұрын

@@rolandaslatvys22 I pulled the gear off from the leadscrew and re-seated it properly. The shaft was not bent. I have successfully cut 24TPI threads using a special purpose gear and it all worked very well.

@rolandaslatvys22 2 жыл бұрын

@@DClarke1954 Thanks for that, mine is slightly bent I think , as half rotation it spins free and half rotation very hard. Will need to strip it down and have a look on a flat surface.

@tomburch7117 2 жыл бұрын

Try a little lithium grease on the gears

@DClarke1954 2 жыл бұрын

Will do, thanks for the tip.

@MOTTOTROOPER 2 жыл бұрын

Cant believe I'm the only one who liked this video and found it useful out of 160 viewers!

@DClarke1954 2 жыл бұрын

Possibly what I had to say was no surprise to the other viewers or they just didn't think it warranted a like. But, THANK YOU :-)

@paulstormtrooper9463 2 жыл бұрын

What size belt did you use and where did you get it from please

@DClarke1954 2 жыл бұрын

@pacmanpacman6967 2 жыл бұрын

tour chinois = GROSSE MERDE. ne pas acheter

@DClarke1954 2 жыл бұрын

Je suis d’accord que les mini-tours chinois de nombreux vendeurs d’e-bay sont de deuxième ordre et sont probablement ceux qui ont été rejetés par les plus grands acheteurs de marques ou qui n’ont pas respecté les normes de qualité. C’est donc un peu du « pot-luck » ce que vous obtenez réellement. J’ai résolu les problèmes avec mon tour (jusqu’à présent) et si j’achète un autre tour, ce sera auprès d’un fournisseur réputé et non d’e-Bay. ;)

@raffaelecotis3960 3 жыл бұрын

kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZpLFi5eDpauqn7s

@firSound 3 жыл бұрын

Oh wow. Seeing you flex your belt really helped. Yeah, mine's as tight as a bow string too. If I pluck it, it's a B flat just above A 440. I just have circular holes too. Looks like it's time to file. My main goal for this lathe is to be able to thread M12 x 0.5. Do you think yours could pull it off now?

@billboat10 3 жыл бұрын

It's your gear train

@DClarke1954 3 жыл бұрын

Hi Billboat, The problem was that "as delivered" the motor was poorly fitted and the belt was so ridiculously tight it was destroying itself on the toothed pulleys. I modified the motor mounting and changed the belt size (length) and the machine is as quiet as it ought to be. I did check the gear-train, but no real issues there.

@firSound 3 жыл бұрын

@@DClarke1954 That high pitch beep/whine is still present for you though? I have the same issues. Can you upload a quick video showing how tight your belt is? It'd be much appreciated.

@DClarke1954 3 жыл бұрын

@@firSound Are you trying to compare sound level with no gear-train engaged? I have mine disengaged most of the time and do all my feeding by hand. I can upload a new clip, for you later. Without geras engaged and with gears engaged.

@DClarke1954 3 жыл бұрын

@@firSound new video published. I hope it helps. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pXbHhoCfl5pqppY

@firSound 3 жыл бұрын

@@DClarke1954 YES! Thank you so much, sincerely appreciated. Just watched the video. That was so fast. And No I wasn't disengaging the gears, thanks for pointing out. I have an MX-8X14 as well (branded by VEVOR)...The lever you use to disengage the gears (I don't know what it's called), did yours originally have two positions or three? Mine only has two positions to switch gears, not a third middle one to disengage.

@stephenburnell3573 3 жыл бұрын

Hello I’ve got the mx750 and it also make that noise.. if you remove the shroud covering the gears and you look at the big gear on the bottom of the change gears you’ll notice that when it’s running that gear has a slight wobble and that is what’s causing that noise.

@shush_ya_mush 3 жыл бұрын

I have this lathe which is supposed to be variable speed between 0 and 2500 rpm but mine won’t go below 300 rpm

@DClarke1954 3 жыл бұрын

Sounds like the potentiometer is faulty or the electronics board is set up incorrectly. I think these lathes use cheap PWM control board with potentiometers on them. Do a search for adjusting PWM speed control maybe? have you looked at..kzbin.info/www/bejne/boitoWdumpaAj8U&ab_channel=ProfessorOzone

@shush_ya_mush 3 жыл бұрын

@@DClarke1954 Thanks for that. The board he has in the video is different to mine. Ive measured the speed control pot and it goes from 0 to 11.6k ohms smoothly, it is a 10k pot so that seems ok. The voltage at the motor is around 200 volts DC at full speed and goes down smoothly to 46 volts with the motor at 360 rpm then drops to 0 volts and the motor stops. Adjusting the pots on the board makes no difference so I believe the board is faulty, I have contacted the seller as Ive only had it a few months. The board is very small and cheaply made so will be swapped for something else if it goes again.

@tadhasse Жыл бұрын

@@shush_ya_mush I had issues originally with the speed sensor not registering correctly at low rpms, I adjusted the pickup in the headstock to be a little closer to the magnets and it started picking up the lower rpms.

@JordanCoreson 4 жыл бұрын

Have you found a fix to the high pitch frequency noise coming from the lathe? I have this same exact lathe and I've used the harbor freight ones and even they done seem to emit sound a high pitch ringing noise.

@DClarke1954 4 жыл бұрын

Hi Jordan, the high-pitched electronic "whine" isn't mechanical and I doubt there is much we can do about it. I am loth to go poking into the electronics as any mistakes are likely to be very expensive. But I am going to do a search to see if anyone HAS managed to eradicate it. I know people have played with the potentiometers on the board(s) to fix the "surging" of the motor. If I find anything I will post it up here.

@DClarke1954 4 жыл бұрын

Just had a quick search on Google and the problem is a common one it seems. To isolate it to the electronics and the motor, just remove the belt (proves it to be non-mechanical. This thread on a CNC forum has a lot to say about it. www.cnczone.com/forums/mini-lathe/388512-mini-lathe-motor-whining-noise-2.html

@Skaldewolf 2 жыл бұрын

as far as I could tell, the noise is from the PWM controlling the motor. for some reason it uses a frequency in the audible (and the most annoying part of) the spectrum. As far as I could tell, there is nothing to do, other than actually completely rebuild the controller-board from scratch

@kenluther9948 4 жыл бұрын

I just bought an Preenex MX750. I sounds similar, more like a rock crusher.

@DClarke1954 4 жыл бұрын

I fixed mine Ken. The belt they provided was far too tight and the motor was in un-adjustable holes (not slots). I filed slots for motor adjustment, put a bigger belt on and its fine. ;)

@kenluther9948 4 жыл бұрын

@@DClarke1954 Thanks for the tip. I'll certainly look at that..

@SamFBM 2 жыл бұрын

@@DClarke1954 dan can you remember what belt you used?

@DClarke1954 2 жыл бұрын

@@SamFBM already answered in the comments mate. scan through them. 🙂

@sajonajo2814 4 жыл бұрын

YOU ARE A LEGEND MATE THEY ALL ARE CUNTS 😂

@アイ広瀬 4 жыл бұрын

I have this too and I’m 329 ly away from anything

@DClarke1954 4 жыл бұрын

An eagle eyed young man spotted that my ship was flying with full UP-thrust as well as forwards (saw it in the dust particles) so I had a bug in my HOTAS. reset the HOTAS and it was then OK.

@DClarke1954 4 жыл бұрын

hands on throttle-and-stick

@billm2158 6 жыл бұрын

Neat wind sculpture Dan. Did you make it?

@DClarke1954 6 жыл бұрын

Sadly not. They are all bought items. But I have plans to give it a go.

@patrickmckowen2999 8 жыл бұрын

Reading your tail on AZ -- nice - thx for sharing -- cheers, Patrick

@SykoEsquire 9 жыл бұрын

I am experiencing the very same on the right throttle and its corresponding buttons. It seems that it is narrowed down to a short. I am a little savvy on soldering, on a scale of 1-10 how difficult of a solder job is this? I submitted a ticket, but would like to have a plan B in case the situation becomes desperate. Thanks in advance.

@bobojo37 8 жыл бұрын

I can't even get my right throttle open to fix hat #3, which ceased working last year.

@bruceboutell3254 9 жыл бұрын

Danny, I gave up waiting for the madcatz support to get back to me, but I have fixed my throttle. Although the fix is a little bit drastic and took me about 4 hours of fussing about over it! Basically I took the thing to bits, cut the wires connecting the right hand throttle. Took the right hand throttle off, unscrewed it all and took it to bits. Then drilled out the hole at the bottom of the throttle to 10mm diameter. Whacked a bit of 18 core multicore cable, that I got from ebay (About £3 for one metre) through. soldered the 14 wires, and used heat shrink (2.5mm) to stop them connecting to each other. Carefully noting which wire was soldered to which!. Glued the throttle to the base with superglue! Soldered the 14 wires on the inside of the throttle base, heat shrinked all those. Ran the cable over the top of the potentiometer, and used the plastic that the superglue came in to stop the cable interfering with the cogs. And Voila. it's fixed! It was either that or try and buy a CH throttle, which are apparently expensive but more reliable! Things you would need: 1) A soldering iron 2) Wire strippers 3) Solder 4) A heat gun 5) 2.5mm heat shrink (a couple of quid from ebay) 6) 18 core multicore wire ( a couple of quid from ebay) 7) A drill 8) 10mm drill bit 9) Screwdrivers (small watchmakers ones) 10) One of those crocodile clip soldering stands to hold the wires in place 11) Locktite 5ml super glue (about 2.50 from screwfix) and it's packaging! 12) Patience, patience, patience!

@bruceboutell3254 9 жыл бұрын

Bruce Boutell It is a bit of a poor design to expect 14 hair thin wires to fit through a hole that isn't much bigger than 3mm by 4mm. And then expect them to flex each time you use the throttle. I would probably be OK if you weren't doing much flying, i.e. simulating long haul 737 flights and hardly ever using full throttle, but for space simulators like Elite (which is what I was using mine for) the constant throttling up and down when dogfighting means that the wires break really quickly.

@eliasseverholt4308 7 жыл бұрын

Did about the same thing just that I took the existing ones and strapped them and put them together. Most of my connections were breaking or already broken.

@bruceboutell3254 9 жыл бұрын

I have the same problem with my one. Only more and more buttons have started to fail at full throttle. And also at that blip point at about 1/4 throttle. I believe you are right that it is a sort of fatigue failure cracking of the wires that control the buttons. I've opened a support ticket with MAD CATZ, and I'm hoping that they'll let me send it back and send me a new one. This guy has similar issues and opened his up to see the wires were cracked. linustechtips.com/main/topic/322875-saitek-x55-rhino/page-4

@DClarke1954 9 жыл бұрын

Bruce Boutell Hi Bruce, I sent the product with all the failing buttons labelled and a clear description of the issues. My retailer replaced it within a week. Sadly the replacement has exactly the same problems after 1 month of use. I will never buy a Saitek product ever again. rubbish components.

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