Yes, Everything is the same back there.

@@Sgt.Slides thank you for the quick response… I will be doing this on my notch this weekend, take care

@@mitch714 good luck, dont get frustrated putting the pump back it. Twisting that thing just right is pretty challenging.

@@Sgt.Slides 😅yeah I know that’s going to be a bit challenging but it beats paying $200 in labor to someone else

ah, sucks when you skip a dumb step and now you gotta redo everything. Good Luck.

@@Sgt.Slides well brother no better way to learn new lessons than through experience. And now I figure no better time to go big and go home and do gapless piston and ring set up. This way regardless of whatever happens to this truck the next owner or whoever I can be proud of what I did. These GM motors are pretty cool though and build it with a vortec block like I got man 😎 thank you for sharing I'd love to see some videos of that little fox body on the track if you have a link to share.

maybe about 4 at a non rushing pace.

good question, i dont think i even noticed the intake, sorry, i dont know.

hey, sorry i take forever to respond these days. Did you figure it out? Try pushing down on the suspension and pulling outward on the strut, or even unbolting the strut to get it to move a bit.

@Sgt.Slides yes i ended up removing the upper control arm.

yeah, it's a fairly simple concept, but it's not as simple as just bolting it in like people like to say at car shows lol.

Nice observation on the angles. First off, the strut side is right at 90 degrees, so no issue there, however, yes the push rod side is a bit less than 90, but one side not optimized isn't enough to cause diminished spring rate and body roll. The car is stiffer now which is what i needed. As far as why the car is "slower" now is because in drifting, even though your wheels are spinning, and the car is sliding, you do still need grip for speed and control as you slide thru the corners. Making your car super stiff in the rear is a trick used by really low hp cars to reduce grip just so they can get their wheels spinning. When you actually make power, you can go softer in the rear for more grip and you can drift a lot faster. Now that I have made the rear stiffer, I have given up some grip which will cost me some speed. It's not a big deal to me, i drive this car for fun, and i dont need to be faster than anyone, so its better for me to go a smidge slower at the track and not smash my fenders.

from a local guy on Craigslist.

@@Sgt.Slides Thank You!

yes its a hack, no you dont understand what provides structure or support. Why do you watch videos on modding cars. you probably shouldn't be touching anything that was designed perfectly my skilled engineers who considered every scenario before hand.

⁠the answer is very simple. Calling hacks out and hopefully other people won’t do what you did. Hack as is a really crappy job not as a quality shortcut. There was a company that made a kit for this maybe 15 years ago. When the kit was used they tied in the metal around it. That was the only way to do it correctly. Unfortunately it wasn’t to popular because people figured out why there were burning through pumps was inadequate wiring and a tiny return line when they used a 255lph pump.

@@angry408w7 well thx for policing youtube things you wouldn't try. gotta kill time somehow while your car's in the dealership with real mechanics I guess. My pockets arent that deep.

yes, actually 2 jacks

I got em from lowes in the wood section, you can probably find them in craft stores as well.

I absolutely LOVE the swap. The biggest difference i have noticed is the ride quality cruising is much better, the car is much more planted hitting bumps in the road, The suspension is also much more tunable, although i'm not really making continuous adjustments. I do frequently see people asking if IRS will make their car "better", but in my opinion it's really a matter of personal prefrence. Cobra IRS parts have become very expensive now, and there are a lot of solid axle upgrades out there that can make your car "better" as well, but for me, it's the IRS.

Hardened push rods are so that they dont wear out against the guide plates. Your broken push rod was the result of a different defect.

@@Sgt.Slides weak factory pushrod with 2 step, factory pushrods not up to the task and deflecting until it broke

@@Sgt.Slides if I would have seen this a year ago I could have sent you a rocker arm if you needed it, I had the same ones and ended up replacing all 16

@@tufgriz8917 oh, yeah, well 2 step is hard on the top end, not sure exactly why, but if you smashed a push rod 2 stepping, im not really surprised. OHC moters will snap rocker arms on 2 step.

@@Sgt.Slides ya the factory pushrods with the press in balls are not the best, hardened one piece is the way to go

you can't really set fire to the outside of a gas tank, why does everyone think im telling people to cut the tank open? That would cause a massive explosion.

I actually just wrapped the accumulator.

I used a rubber "Fuel line" inside my tank as a quick repair, and never went back to fix it. It burst after about a year, luckily there's no major safety issues with the in tank line breaking.

yeah buddy!

More after this nasty heat wave.

1st Sgt wont find out unless someone snitches! lol

OEM fuel lines aren't always an option when you're swapping an engine, and even if you get the correct adapters to connect to the OEM fuel line, you're still going to have to make a section to go to your new fuel rail. There's a correct way to do things.

and coolant lines do not contain ethanol, so you're fine using this stuff for coolant, oil, or whatever fluid runs thru, just not gasoline/e85.