I thought pergo said an underlayment isn't needed because it's already provided on the planks?

I think I missed out

Another tip you can try for a refresh is using a hair dryer on high heat, heating the leather will #1 help it absorb any stains and #2 it will actually tighten the leather back up. Which will help the seat cushions that get the most wear.(Also helps to rotate your cushions every now and then bc we all tend to sit in the same seat) You can also tighten the side and back panels this way. Leather will expand and contract with the temp, or if someone leans on it/puts a knee in the side to move the sofa.

I love it!!!

Where do I find those brackets?

I made one similar to this, and did shou sugi ban on it.

What kind of wood is the deck made from? And are you happy with the Penofin? Thank you.

Holy fuck lady get to the tack strips we didn’t look up how to remove carpet and padding and we are well aware there’s nails. 2/3 of your video is pointless

god Chelsea is so hot just sayin

Great video!! Quick question: If I’m building a 48 inch wide gate how much clearance should I have on each side of the gate to the posts/other material?? I was thinking have up to 1/2 inch spacing on each side Let me know thanks 🙏

What about blowing out the backflow preventer? Is that not necessary?

How come no one sells something like this? I'd be much better off buying it than making it.

They wanted $50 to install my light Thank you so much for saving me $50!!! I'm 66 but I can still follow directions. You're awesome!!!

We removed our chair rail and used spackle to repair it - I sanded down and painted a dark color. Now I’m realizing I should have primed over the chair rail repair 😣 is it too late to prime just the chair rail area or will that make it stick out even more now the whole is painted dark. I’ve already don’t 2 coats of eggshell paint 😣

Great instructions. Thanks!

So much cheaper to scrape down the texture and repaint.

I love your honesty.

Thank you. I was gonna buy a new sprayer but I think it needs new filters.

One thing I didn’t see commented on is what happens when a picket runs into the metal bracket? They are running flush on the face so if a screw needs to go into that how do you work around it? I am doing this exact thing this weekend but not sure how that will line up. 5.5 inch planks on 4 foot to center (for FL code) posts.

Thanks for this! Watched a few other videos before this one and this was definitely the most informative and helpful.

So that is nickel gap not ship lap. Look at the difference and the tool you referenced as a multitool is an oscillating saw. The finished job looks great. 🎉

Can this be done on stained wood trim?

I knew this was a sponsored add when she said look at the beautiful nice owners manual 😂

I have flat which was already painted with asian apcolite, this was done 2 years back. Is it ok if we apply directly Royale paint on top of old ascolite paint. Or do we need to put again premier and then Royale paint. We were plaining to use morning glory from Royale variant for full house. Nite there were no cracks/wetness issues. Please suggest me

I love this concept. Will this blocks crumble easily?

I need to make an outdoor sitting bench, so this will be perfect. I did not know about that adhesive. Is this something that Lowes sells? thanks! oh, just saw the link, so now I know where to get it!

Why not leave the mop head whole and afix a body of a can or plastic container underneath the mop head ? Why make more work than needed

⁠For those people who think its unnecessary to wear protective eye gear, masks or gloves, when working with Pressure Treated (PT) lumber… You should go to the wood manufacturer’s websites. They all say pretty much the same things. DO NOT TOUCH NEW PRESSURE TREATED WOOD WITH YOUR BARE HANDS. If you do touch it, you are supposed to wash your hands immediately. Don’t breath in the saw dust because it is loaded with the chemicals. In fact they even recommend that any clothing that touched new PT lumber be washed immediately and separately from your regular laundry. New pressure treated lumber is very toxic, and it leaches out of the wood for quite a while. This is why you can’t use pressure treated wood inside your home. You also can’t use it for garden boxes that will grow fruits or vegetables, or edible flowers, unless you completely line it with plastic. Our dog was exposed to the in the sawdust because the deck builder didn’t clean anything up. She now has severe lung disease and has to take 2 inhalers, oral steroids and asthma medication twice a day. If you are cutting a treated wood, please wear the proper protective mask, gloves and safety glasses. Your eyes have a mucous membrane that absorbs chemicals very quickly. Most builders recommend waiting a few weeks for your deck boards to “dry out” before you stain OR seal the wood. During this process the water evaporates leaving the chemicals. I started researching, because there were 2 boards on my brand new deck that would stay wet long after the rest of the deck was dry. I looked at several wood manufacturers and realized that the pressure treating processes had changed, because the chemicals being used were deadly. The PT lumber of today, is not the same as the lumber in the 1970’s or ‘80s? The old PT wood was protected all the way through. Most people are not aware that most of the above ground pressure treated products are ONLY protected around the outer edges of the board. The middle of the board has basically no chemical protection. SO as soon as you cut a board, or drill into the middle, you are required to seal the holes and cut ends with TWO coats of a special chemical product that the manufacturer recommends. Some manufacturers require that the sealer contain a minimum of 1% copper. Some product I’ve seen were called Cut-N-Treat or Cut-N-Seal. These products are not the same as regular deck sealer. They specifically state for cuts into PT wood. The reason this is necessary to seal cuts and large holes is because the inside of the board is completely dried out and unprotected. When a PT board is cut or a hole is drilled, the inner wood is exposed. That dry wood acts like a straw or sponge and starts drawing moisture in. Remember back to your science classes when you learned about osmosis, which is simply the movement of water going from a high concentration to an area of lower concentration. Humidity is the amount of moisture in the air, which is higher than the moisture in the wood. There is also the risk of rain water getting pulled inside, during the “drying out” period before you stain or seal the wood. The wood manufacturer might have a 25 year warranty on their products, but if you fail to seal your cuts and holes with the exact product in their instructions, the manufacturer’s warranty is lost. They will not replace anything, for any reason… even if it’s related to bugs and not water damage! As soon as you don’t follow their instructions, your warranty is VOIDED! The warranty requires you to have receipts for the sealer, to show that you bought the correct product and when, you also need to take photos showing the cut ends were sealed with 2 coats. If you are investing in expensive pressure treated lumber, then make sure you follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Since some receipts degrade quickly, especially in hot environments, take a photo on your cell phone of the product and your receipt, so you don’t lose out! Yes it’s a pain in the ass, and a bit more work, but replacing a $20,000 deck that should have been covered by warranty is worse! For people who are hiring a company to build your deck, fence, etc. Ask them about sealing their cut ends. If they look at you like you have 2 heads and have no idea what you’re talking about, say goodbye and walk away. This is a clear sign that they don’t read the manufacturer’s instructions for the pressure treated lumber being used. Any photos of their work, would show projects that have no manufacturer’s warranty, and their customers most likely have no idea. Those instructions also include information on how to dispose of left over material and how to clean up the worksite and sawdust properly. So they likely have also contaminated their customer’s property in some way. IF YOU HAVE PETS… PLEASE PLEASE DON’T EXPOSE THEM TO THESE CHEMICALS! It is truly a nightmare to watch you pet struggle to breath!

Good job. Looks very nice. Next time you do it just start with 5 or 6 boards staining them end to end and not stop in the middle of the board. This way you don't risk getting a dry edge by the time you restart the other half and also you don't need to step over wet stain to wipe.

great explanation'

Glue and brads should do the trick..

excellent summary, thank you.

This will save me a ton of money. Looks straight forward and very easy. Thank you.

I remember the $100 days😡😡😡😡😡

Looks like crap

This is the downvote section 👎. As cant see how many people disliked. Goofy implementation + video too long.

What size was the little strings

Ty!

thanks for showing brush stokes

Will this work on canvas material?

Thank you.

1:04 I feel like the diagonal screws was a fail, that's why they switched to photos instead of video. The metal bracket was preventing the screws so while figuring it out they just posted a photo. It's common to run into issues while building, just be more honest so viewers don't get false expectations.

What if the wood is already painted?

It really helps for people to understand that you are actually grinding down the tile and not cutting it. When you think of grinding through it instead of cutting it, it makes it easier to remember to take it slow.

That didn’t teach how. ?

So what size screws?

Great video! What the spacing on the cedar panel, if any?

The one thing missing from this video is the one thing that is holding me back from doing mine DIY: How do you make sure that the posts are perfectly vertical while the cement is drying? You made reference to lawn stakes, But I cannot even picture that. Does anyone here know of another video that shows what that looks like?

GREAT information. Thank you!

To all who is watching this, there is absolutely nothing wrong with building a gate like this, as it is simple.......but, I would absolutely recommend purchasing & installing a spring loaded gate wheel for support, and to eliminate the possibility of your gate "sagging" over time. It only costs around or below $20, and only requires (2) lag bolts for installation which are included. Definitely worth it for what it prevents.