Spin potential tacky rubber would definitely come out on top? Citation needed. Studies have never shown this to be true.

Is ALC blade a good idea for tacky rubber as it will give control as well as speed

Im intermediate level. Training with coach 3-4 times in week. I’ve been plying for 3 years now. In the beginning I’ve been testing a lot of rubbers. But last year been using alc fzd and tenergy 05fx(fx bcs softer feeling, can hold the ball longer on the rubber) and my game got much better. But the stability factor was the key. Keeping same setup for a long time. My coach telling me don’t overcomplicate things for yourself. Keep it simple.

🙏🏻😎💪🏻... Try gewo codexx EL..... That's my to go setting for both BH and FH

I used to try all kinds of rubber. The conclusion is to put tenergy 05 for forehand and backhand . End of story.

Nice 1 fella! 👍

Can u give your few cents on the strategy to be used against a player using tensor rubber and relying in speedy fast shots. While I am using a slow table tennis blade with control. The opponent simply tries to loop every thing

Can you recommend some rubbers for FH chop? I guess tacky rubbers are good for that. Im a defensive player still learning and exploring.

What i been seen alot is that, everytime they buy a new rubber they trow away the dust cover. And later on they spend like 5€ for a new dust cover.. but little did they know some rubbers have dust cover for you, you dont need to buy it. It came on the new rubber.

Awsome video mate ! I been useing tacky rubber for very long time. And for me it works batter then anything eles. Yes need to do hit harder to faster but yet again you still have more control over your shots. 😊

I have an issue where it feels like the table surface changes my swing track. basically I try to loop from bottom to top but then the ball is shorter than I thought and I instinctively close my racket and hit and try to brush foreward. anyway to fix it?

During your competition days, have you encounter a chopper? Like a chopper who does fh and bh chop? How did you manage to win

Nice video.👏 Thanks for breaking down one of the must have skills in a simple and detailed manner. An experienced player can visualise it, but it would have been better demonstrating the different aspects of the FH loop in this video.

If you are in a budget and you want an amazing carbon blade, check for Stuor Arylate Carbon. It's basically layer by layer the same as a Viscaria, but only a fraction of the price. It's my favourite blade, a bit slower than Viscaria but great control and good speed.

W Vid Kush keep it up and YES it’s so Physically Demanding and Mentally Demanding to I remember when I started 2 years ago I thought all Reflexes and that’s what all my kids in high school and high school teachers think but it’s so Physically like I remember my coach saying your power never comes from “your shoulders so don’t slap at the ball” and he also said “any fool get hit 1 slap but can they do 500 in a row” and mentally “my other coach says never look at the scoreboard take every point as it comes and if you lose forget about it if it’s 8-4 your losing say you can win” and when I started I didn’t get it but as my footwork got better I seen the difference in my speed and skill like I was worse player in the club for 8 months than I took seriously last year and holy I’m now TOP 10 in club. Also quick question idk what’s wrong with my technique but whenever I hit a backhand I feel like I can’t flick the wrist and shoulder if u have an answer to that pls tell me.

If this is one of your first videos and you don't own a custom table tennis paddle, get a 5 ply wood blade. Do not get any type of carbon blade until you've been playing for about two years

just get tenergy 05. the price difference is minimal considering all the money we pour in for booking venue and hiring coach.

You missed out on the Nittaku version of the hurricane 3....so yes there are japanese sponges with Chinese topsheets....there is also DHS Goldarc 8 which is Chinese but made in Germany (and this is a very controlled and well behaved rubbber)!!

in my opinion it is best to wash with water but every dozen or so washes use a good liquid dedicated to cleaning rubbers. When I used to use the liquid more often I had the impression that the rubber dries faster, so I confirm what you said that water is best, but water alone will not clean the greasy residue from sweat that collects there after a few weeks of playing. And when it comes to water, not all water is the same, my tap water is very hard and stains remain on the rubbers surface. It is best to use filtered water or maybe even better to have a bottle of distilled water.

micro fibre tissu around a sponge and i use a small bottle of window cleaner. i spray ONE time on one side of the sponge, i clean and i dry the surface with the other side that's dry. protection film and boom! the advantage of window cleaner is that it fights humidity. it really helps to keep the rubber dry even when humid. 😉 edit: my DHS rubbers last the whole season with me. i change only one time per year and i reglue the racket every month just to have fresh glue between rubbers and blade.

I use a Case and the good ol breath method to clean, sometimes water when at home. And the rubbers are usually playable for a year, with training around 6-7h a week. Also had some Rubbers that looked horrible after just 2 months. It varies a lot

Finally, a video to show my friends when they say "Table tennis isnt a real sport, you dont even need endurance."

endurance for how long? 1hour? 2 hours?

Too much ranting in this one 😆

I like how more upright and balanced your ready position and stance is. Any tips for your distribute your weight and maintain that balance and form in your body?

Excellent video. Makes more sense when you break down the details. More such content please.

true, I suggest more videos or examples not just talking for visual aspects of the video and higher quality.

First time I seriously trained in table tennis I got hypohidrosis lol

But i wonder if this much long action creates problem in fast game of table tennis. May its good against chopper. But otherwise literally has to go for killer shots with those backhands and not continuing the rally with any attacker

You are a quality content creator. Absolutely stunning insights. Please continue this. And never stop

The thing that i learn, is that carbon blade cut off 50% - 60% of ball feed back and you can also lose feeling for spin, but when it comes for raw power and speed carbon are unmatched.. so if you focusing on control and havy spin like me. Just normal wood is fine, As long as you have good feedback and feeling when hiting the ball..😊

Spot on advice pal

I think you should understand first of all your physical capabilities, which will open for you the next step determination your game strategy. Some people just not able to do fast moves with their hands, so faster blade will work better for them in some situations. Some peple can chop better than top spin, so then their game strategy should be oriented in choppers game and then they should use blade for choppers... Wooden blade has smaller sweet spot, than carbon blades, which is a disadvantage...

Carbon blades are also lighter which also helps you do better loops and spins without causing injuries to your shoulders.

This video was fantastic! Thank you for sharing it with us😊

Hi Kush, Made a mistake to buy Timo Boll ALC with Dignic 09c and FastArc G1. I didn’t research enough before doing it. Came across your video and chose to buy Stiga Clipper with Vega Europe DF and Europe. Thanks for your content. Wanted to know your thoughts if you think I would able to go back to TB ALC later or will have to stay with Stiga set up?

Hi, i have been training for 3-4 years (Im 23 years old) After training for like a year with a Stiga Infinity VPS V (Which i used since i started training), i bought a FZD ALC, now paired with D09C on FH and Xiom J&H V47.5 on BH (Im a more FH orientated player) At first i loved the fzd (And i still do), but now that i understand more the game, i feel like my setup is quite fast for me, i think i have a pretty good footwork and physique, but my technique can still be better. So im thinking of going back to the Stiga blade with the same rubbers (I read on internet that the sport now is going towards slower blades with faster rubbers). Do you think it would be a good idea to do it? Also i can sell the fzd so it can also be good for my budget. Also i would say im an intermediate, almost advanced player

if you want a great carbon blade with great feel and not too fast, it's the Nittaku Septear Feel. such a good ball contact it's really hard to explain but it's clear like water and it is forgiving. at least to me. handles are super comfy. pairs great with last gen hard tension rubbers and chinese rubbers. i don't understand why people are so focused on Viscaria and all cousins of this blade. people miss great stuff. sad.

👍 Is the weight of the blade, and total weight of the racket important? Can you give some limits? I am amateur player

My current setup utilizes a DHS PG7X blade with Nittaku Fastarc G1 on both sides. Switching from the Sanwei Target National and Tibhar Supreme Prime to Fastarc G1 has noticeably reduced fatigue during extended play sessions.

A few company it seems on purpose refuse to put the ESN hardness number on their product: Yasaka Rakza series. They only put soft, medium and hard. That is why I refuse to buy Rakza product.

I really like that you are adding subtitles by yourself😊

Your net 🥅 is bending from the middle.

Australian?

Besides sponge hardness, topsheet firmness and pimple geometry also play a significant role in creating the overall feeling with the rubber, and these are not really communicated in rubber specifications. I think it is up to trying and experimenting to find one well suitable to a player's style. In ESN world, Nittaku Fastarc G-1 is a very precise rubber (firm topsheet, dense pips array - gives a harder overall feeling, sensitive to stroke timing) with a clear feel - on the other hand, Xiom Omega V Pro has a softer topsheet and a sparser pips array, and it makes the contact softer and mushier, adding to fault tolerance (worse feeling for thin strokes, but easier looping). Using rubbers with tacky surfaces usually let the player add a few more points to his/her upper limit for hardness, because of the extra grip. I have my limits around 50 degrees ESN scale for non-tacky and 39-40 degrees DHS scale for tacky rubbers.

Sensible advice, nice

I use a softer rubber on forehand, even though I am a forehand player... idk I just like how it feels. Tibhar hybrid MK fx on forehand and Tibhar hybrid MK on backhand.

You are creating good quality content. These are much needed clarity. And you explain clearly and precisely. Kudos

Please tell something about difference in racket angle when playing with hard sponge vs soft sponge