You can clean the gunk in the main jet as many times as you want, however, it will stop up again and again because the federal government wanted fuel efficiency and as a result the opening in that main jet is 0.12-0.13" in diameter (this where all the gas to the engine must pass through). You need to drill out the main jet to .021" to make sure it does not clog up. This is the diameter of most small engines without the plastic carb and it works just fine and even better at .021".

Thanks! Just had the same problem and was wondering if that was possible…

Just like the other commenter, I noticed my oiler doesn't seem to be working. I bought my 445 used, it ran fine for a tank of gas. With the second tank, I noticed the chain bogging, the clutch assembly overheating, and excessive chain tension. Tried loosening the chain and it popped off. Tried putting it back together and the bar is squeezed too tight so I have to open the groove with a screwdriver. But I noticed it all seems too dry. Tried cleaning the oiler outlet but I don't think that's enough. I have a new chain ready to go since I want to upgrade to full chisel but I'll examine the oiler mechanism and replace if needed before I try using it again. Seems as though oiler issues might be a thing with these chainsaws. Or the previous owner noticed the problem and that's why I got it for $150. I probably should have been suspicious that the oil tank is completely full and I haven't had to add any oil! How dumb is that?

Excellent video; it gives me the reassurance I need to attempt it myself. My Husqvarna is a model 445 as well, so this video is spot on for my situation. My oiler quick working and I realized it when the chain would no longer rotate on the bar because it had frozen on due to a lack of lubrication. I bought a new bar and chain and used it for a short time when I realized that the oiler was not working (I thought I had just run out of oil the first time around). I will take it apart to see if I need a new oiler pump or I just need to clean out the worm gear. Thanks again!

It's not a filter, it's a flame arrestor

you can swap it for an adjustable one and save the headache of messing with it.

Most of the engines I work on have a filthy carb . Last one was water to gas ratio was at 95% water

Is it still running? My pull cord snapped back on me and the handle went missing. I think it’s going to be an engine issue. I probably got about 5 years’ use since new.

Can u see my last short? , my briggs 18.5 hp fail, the engine start, but make an strange sound, somebody tell me its the solenoid mix fuel but i dont know. Thank u

DACHSY!

I wanna see some acoustic cover songs on here as well 😉

Just did 3 of them. The needle nose works fine after the first one. Ya good at it fast. Thanks.

Thank you!!! I bought one today and didn’t notice that damn useless filter or whatever it is until I was putting the gas pump nozzle in. OMG all this “safety” crap they are putting on gas cans has me spilling more gas than the ones I used a long time ago. I put new gas cans right up there with political correctness, something to drive you insane

Gas cans are now woke also. What a stupid thing to put in a gas can.

Just bought this jug and had no idea how to remove the strainer in order to fill a kerosene heater. Not sure that was an improvement! Thank you for this video, was able to remove it with small claw hammer and pliers. 😃

Just what I needed.

It's not a filter, it's a flame arrester. When vapors outside the can ignite, it prevents the flame front from following the vapors inside the can.

Got a new short block coming. 65.00 includes shipping from Jacks…..Thanks

I got great satisfaction ripping out at least one of California's BS unworkable regulations and tossing it into the garbage :)

I've got an Easy Can (from Walmart online). It has a filter that goes about 7" down into the gas can. I used a butter knife around the edge of the filter. I was extra gentle at first but it wasn't coming out. I put a bit more pressure, moving around the edge. A bit broke off around the top rim of the filter, but it started moving. After one edge of the filter rim was separated from the can I used needle nose pliers to pull it out. Whoever designs these things doesn't deserve a raise. Thanks for the video 👍

I had the same problem with a pump, that has a filter on it, and oh yeah, your car has a fuel filter, so this seems stupid at this point to have another filter in the can. I have 5 Diesel cans, and I tried to get it out, but did not have the channel locks with me at the time, so I pushed it in. So the others, I will have to pull this stupid thing out. Guess if I buy anymore, I will have to remove it first. Thanks. I pretty much was thinking that was how I would have to remove the stupid thing.

Thank you! Being on a 7000 mile motorcycle trip where I need to find a gas station at least every 120 miles, carrying an extra one gallon may be a life saver during this latest gas shortage panic.

Fixed! And saved the filter for reuse. My issue was that I had trash inside the new scepter filter when I filled my new jug from another can and I needed the debris out of the new filter opening. It would just transfer into my mowers tank from what was in the inner filter. And did not wanna push filter into the can and have the debris contaminate new fuel and have to fish it out to reuse. I was going to transfer to another can with cheese cloth filter but I just really want to clean this one and found all this on KZbin. And y’all really didn’t need to all that!! **If you look down inside where the filter is sitting (along the 12 o’clock area/the north side of the opening) just slide something small like a butter knife between the filter and the spout opening. There’s a small nipple that holds that white plastic filter inside the neck. Pull that from the nipple and you can just pull the filter out with some needle nose.

Thank you

This was my exact situation. Thank you for the video!

Thanks for sharing

FYI this isn’t a filter at all!! It’s a Flame Mitigation Device FMD! Somewhat new law. It’s because of “special people” who pour gas on an open flame or hot coals and hurt themselves or others. What a pain they are at the gas pump to fill in a timely fashion and to not spill! There are a few videos. Just look up FMD gas can.

Thank you. Same issue here. What a terrible new design.

*Darwinism in action. This thing is call a flame arrester. Removing it may cause your gas Can to explode. Proof - **kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y4q6h2V9e9uWbq8*

Update, after massive research and a couple of ring purchases, I believe I found the correct rings for your/my Ryobi bp42....part number 690161006. I just received them today, install them on the Piston which seems to fit perfectly. I will be reinstalling the engine and components this weekend and I will stop back in tell you how it worked.

I am currently in the same situation as you with the piston rings...have you found anyone that stocks them? I know other Ryobi engines show that you can order the rings for the piston but it all comes down to size and I have not been able to find anyone to take measurements of the rings for me. I do know that the Ryobi 678747003 piston rings are too big in diameter but are correct for thickness. ....so don't buy those!

will this make the gas flow faster? got one yesterday and tested it with water, water did not flow easily. i will try to remove that filter to see how it goes.

I have a 1 Ryobi bp42 no Spark already replace the ignition coil and the flywheel any comment to help me

I appreciate this one.

Note: My method is for the Midwest brand of gas can.

An easier way and more eloquent way is to simply push the filter into the can with a broom handle. Then pull it out backwards with a pliers. The bottom of the filter has a plastic tail attached to it. Shake the can until the tail of the filter is visible from the can opening. Grab the tail of the filter with a pliers and simply pull the entire filter out. It will come out without damaging either the can or the filter. It can even be reinstalled if you change your mind.

Just picked one of these blowers up from the dump, wont start which I'm assuming is why it was in the dump lol I pulled the spark arrestor and sure enough those rings are locked into the piston, which some scoring on both the piston and the sleeve. Luckily I'm a pretty handy guy and will be digging into this first thing in the morning. I'll be sure to use extra care when removing those rings and use some brake clean! I have seen some rings online for this piston supposedly. I'm wondering if larger slots can be machined into the piston on a lathe allowing for a thicker ring to be used?