@@Jacobb1980 Thanks for your question! I call it "stealth" because of the geometric design inspired by stealth jets. It's more about the visual style and the angular, sharp lines that resemble those found on stealth aircraft, which I've incorporated into the design of the TV tray table. It's purely a design term to capture that sleek, modern look :)

Has anyone got any information for this error ?

@@BackDaws That definitely sounds frustrating! It seems like there might be a sensor issue if the room is already warm enough. I recommend opening a support ticket through the Bambu Handy app. Their support team should be able to help troubleshoot and resolve the error for you. Hope this gets sorted out quickly so you can start printing :)

@@3DTheory I rolled back firmwares and on the 3rd roll back it's working, I've printed off the boat, scraper, phone tripod and now 8hrs for the first part of the AMS lite overhead bracket. I'm so impressed, but worried about updating the firmware incase it messes things up so getting all the stuff I need done first.

@@MoMarinePrepper Thanks for your interest and the compliment! I'm glad you found the weight test impressive. I'll be posting it on MakerWorld before the end of this upcoming week, and I'll make sure to pin a comment here once it's available. Stay tuned :)

@@MoMarinePrepper Hey, thanks for the kind words and for following the project! I'm glad you're liking the results. I use PETG from a supplier on Alibaba, it works really well for me. Here’s the link if you want to check it out the company: dwdz.m.en.alibaba.com/index.html?wx_navbar_transparent=true&tracelog=sns_minisite

@@gonniekistan179 That's a great tip, cutting in one direction definitely helps maintain the integrity of the material I'm working on. And storing extra blades in the handle is smart. I'll make sure to do that to make sure I always have a sharp one. Thanks for the advice! :)

@@ez2automate For lubricating the X and Y guide rails, I use a 3-in-1 oil by WD-40 with a Marksman spout. It works really well for keeping everything running smoothly. I get it from Harbor Freight. Here's the link if you're interested: www.harborfreight.com/4-oz-multi-purpose-oil-with-marksman-spout-61495.html

@@3DTheory Thank You!

@@NickBR57 Thanks for the suggestion! Using brass heat inserts and machine screws does sound like a solid approach, and I’m planning to try out heat inserts for a project soon. The tip about CA glue with an accelerant is also great, definitely quicker than epoxy. Appreciate your input :)

That's a really helpful suggestion! Using PLA for supports with PETG prints could indeed simplify the process. I'll definitely try a test print of the drawer using this method to see how it goes. Thanks for the tip :)

@@IgnusFast I’m glad you found that moment funny, it was a perfect, unplanned example to drive home the point! I thought it was funny too :D You're absolutely right, it's crucial to understand that 3D printed items like this aren't meant for practical furniture use, especially under any significant weight. It's all part of learning what works and what doesn't in 3D printing. Thanks for watching and enjoying the spontaneous humor in that scene :)

@@revcharlescutter That's awesome to hear the table worked out well for you! I plan to upload the new design to MakerWorld by the end of next week. Once it's up, I'll make sure to post and pin a comment here to let you know. Thanks for your interest and support :)

@@NoMercyFtw I'm really sorry to hear about the trouble with KZbin deleting your comments, that must be frustrating. I appreciate you persevering to share your thoughts! About your suggestions, they sound solid! I haven’t used E6000 adhesive before, but it seems like a strong option. Regarding the legs inserting deeper, it's a great idea, but due to the design constraints with the drawer and slot depths, I had to keep them shallow to avoid weakening the structure. If it weren't for the drawer, inserting the legs deeper as you mentioned would have been perfect. Thanks for the awesome tips, and I'll definitely keep them in mind for future designs where I can apply them :)

@@karlnewman8605 Thanks for the encouragement! I’m thrilled to hear you're interested in printing and building this project. I’m making a few final tweaks to the 3D model and plan to upload it to MakerWorld by the end of next week. I'll also post an update here and pin the comment once it’s available. Stay tuned :)

@@JustinNewton1117 Thanks for the tip on setting the support Z height to 0.3 for tree supports! I'll take a peek at my settings and if they’re still stock, I’ll update them. Glad you’re enjoying the series, really appreciate your advice :)

@3DTheory just Try the setting on something small and see if you like it. Most people go from .25-.3. All preference though. Your prints come out nice overall I think though.

@@waywardmedia4491 I’m glad you noticed the clean prints! I’m consistently impressed by what the Bambu Lab A1 can achieve with PETG. I don’t dry my PETG or use any special settings, just the generic ones from Bambu Studio. The quality likely stems from a combination of factors: 1. The PETG I use from an Alibaba supplier, 2. The Bambu Lab A1 printer, and 3. Bambu Studio’s settings. Since this is a common question, I’m considering making a video about it. If you’re interested, I can share the supplier link :)

@@3DTheory yes i would be interested thanks

@@waywardmedia4491 Great! Here’s the link to the company I get my PETG filament from on Alibaba: dwdz.m.en.alibaba.com/index.html?wx_navbar_transparent=true&tracelog=sns_minisite

@@3DTheory It would make an interesting video topic too

@@3DTheory Dang thats some good prices on filament. Have you tried their PLA? I know you print primarily in PETG but was wondering if you had tried their PLA.

@@iq0099 The best 3D design app really depends on what you're planning to create. I’ve covered this topic in one of my videos, where I explore different apps and their strengths depending on your project needs. You can check out the video here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nHqodYqDgpxgqNE Please drop a comment on that video to let me know if it helps or if you have more questions :)

@@landynmiller6750 I'm glad you love them! The idea of a roller design where you can spin to select a tab is really cool and something I thought about doing at the start. While the current design is simpler, I'm definitely considering adding that feature in a future version. Thanks for the suggestion :)

@@3DTheory yes sir ofc

@@Dunamis_82 Great to hear you're giving the thickness tabs a try! They should be really handy while you're working with metric measurements. Enjoy the download and happy printing :)

@@lifeholdstrategic I'm thrilled to hear you found the tips helpful! The thickness test cards are already up on MakerWorld, ready for you to download and print. I hope they serve you well in fine-tuning your projects. Thanks for your support :)

@@lifeholdstrategic That's a fantastic strategy you've developed! It's so important to maintain a sense of scale in 3D modeling to ensure the physical print matches your expectations. Like you, I've run into similar challenges in the past, especially with models coming out thinner than anticipated. In my workflow, I rely heavily on digital calipers to verify dimensions continuously as I design. If I'm modeling something particularly delicate or small, I always double-check those measurements with the calipers out in the real world, setting them to the specific measurement in the design to get a tangible sense of the thickness or size. I also plan to go over some of these scaling issues and how I resolve them in tomorrow's vlog, which might provide some additional insights. Your use of quarters as a physical reference is clever and practical, offering a tactile comparison that many CAD tools lack. It's smart to incorporate such real-world objects for scale verification. Thanks for sharing your method, and for the great question! Your approach not only helps you but could also be very useful for others facing similar challenges :)

@@3DTheory Thank you for making that response video, greatly appreciated!!

@@lifeholdstrategic I'm glad you found the video helpful! Thanks for sparking such a great topic. Keep the questions coming :)

@@bitosdelaplaya Thanks for your interest! I actually use a brand called Dowell for my PETG, which I get from Alibaba. It's been reliable for my projects. Here's the link where I purchase it from: dwdz.m.en.alibaba.com/index.html?wx_navbar_transparent=true&tracelog=sns_minisite

@@Dunamis_82 Thanks for pointing that out! The Fusion 360 hobbyist license certainly offers a lot, making powerful tools accessible to many. That's good to know about the limitation with editing STLs on the hobbyist license, I wasn't aware of that. Thanks for the info :)

@@LarryBerg Thanks for the recommendation on Plasticity! I just checked it out, and it does look amazing. Their “CAD for Artists” slogan is an intriguing concept that aligns perfectly with a blend of technical and creative needs. The one-time purchase fee also makes it quite accessible. I appreciate the tip :)

@@3DTheory Problem with Plasticity is the lack of true parametric design. I use Fusion myself. Just as a hobbyist though. If using the free version, you are limited to 10 editable designs (you can mark them read only to have more than 10 designs hosted), as well as other limitations. Not really much thats been an issue though. Since you're planning on purchasing it, of course you wont have the same limitations. I'm not entirely sure I like the hosted file system, but you can always export files. One issue I had to learn the hard way is dont delete lines in a sketch that are referenced (the reference is set to the id of the line, so if you delete it and recreate the same line, it'll have a different id, and will loose its reference in the 3d part.). FreeCAD has come a long way, and if you actually do install it, do not use the "stable" release on the web page. It is many, many versions out of date. Get the weekly build from github instead. Still not a fan of FreeCAD myself, as it can be very picky about certain things. I suppose if you learned to do things the "right" way, it wouldn't be so bad. Ondsel is based on FreeCAD, but with a few more features. I tried it out for a little, but its still based on FreeCAD, so I ran into the same types of issues. OnShape is the other one I think you should check out. Granted, it is only web based, but it is very similar to Fusion in a lot of ways. For me, its fine, but still just doesn't feel as polished as Fusion does. I think it has very similar pricing. Some tools do have more settings than Fusion has, but also, some tools dont have a preview quite as well tuned as Fusion. Personally, I think Fusion is the best, but its no where near perfect. There are many issues with it trying to guess/predict what you want to do that it just doesn't work quite right.

Just a few months ago it was $99. But $149 is still a good price, because it's a one-time payment. At least in theory, because updates are for a year, so if someone wants to have the latest version all the time, we can assume that it's currently $149 per year, which is still a good price when it comes to this type of program ;-)

Nomad is great. Very intuitive to use. Needs an Android tablet or IPad, a phone is just too small although it works in a pinch

@@lifeholdstrategic Thanks for bringing up Shapr3D and Nomad Sculpt again! I remember you mentioning these in another comment. It’s great to revisit these options, especially since they cater so well to different artistic sensibilities in design. Your suggestions, along with other recommendations from our community, are inspiring me to consider a video exploring these affordable yet powerful tools more deeply. Really appreciate your contributions :)

@@artspam Agreed, I use it on an iPad too, the larger screen size really does make a difference :)

@@nmavor That's a great suggestion! Adjusting the "lip" of the drawer to a 45-degree angle to eliminate the need for supports makes a lot of sense, especially since most modern printers handle 45-degree angles well. I'll definitely consider making that change if it simplifies the printing process. Thanks for the tip :)

@@jimmanis6717 Thanks for the advice! Using PLA for support does add to build time, especially with two different materials and the AMS Lite system, potentially increasing waste, something I’ll look into for future projects. I’m exploring CAD options, Fusion 360 caught my eye in today’s video I uploaded, and I’ll consider checking out Parasolid as well. Your suggestion to simplify part designs to reduce support needs is smart and much appreciated. Thanks again for sharing your thoughts and tips :)

@@3DTheory I was commenting late at night here in east coast time but I meant to say parametric software IE; Fusion or Solidworks, Both offer maker versions for free in Fusions case and under 50$ for SolidWorks.

@@3DTheory if you looking for CAD you may like to look at freecad yes its harder to learn then Fusion 360 BUT its FREE and stay for free no license update like Fusion did 2 years ago to the "free" license

@@jimmanis6717 Thanks for clarifying that! I appreciate the extra details about Fusion 360 and SolidWorks. Your comment motivated me to dig deeper and do the research, which led me to discover the free version of Fusion 360. Your suggestions really helped guide my choice. Thanks again for your input :)

Just saw something like that from 3dprintingnerd latest short

@@VoiceTheInside Thanks for the suggestion! Using a dovetail design to eliminate the need for supports is an interesting idea. I've got a dovetail design for the tabletop already, but considering it for other parts could definitely be a way to streamline future projects. I’ll keep this in mind as I continue to develop and refine my designs. Thanks again for your input :)

@@michaeldunstan849 Thank you for your kind words and support! I'm glad you appreciate the content and effort. If there’s anything specific you’d like to see or discuss further, please let me know. Your feedback is always welcome :)

@@Somnology666 Awesome idea for a 1:1 Terminator print! For post-processing, PETG tends to be a bit trickier to sand and finish compared to PLA, which is generally easier to work with if you plan to do a lot of sanding or painting. However, PETG offers greater temperature resistance and durability, which could be beneficial for an office display, especially if it’s exposed to direct sunlight. If appearance and ease of finishing are your main concerns, PLA might be the better choice. Both have their merits, so your choice might depend on the specific needs of your project and the conditions in the office :)

@@jimmanis6717 Thanks for the suggestion about vacuum forming the Lazy Day Tray! I'm still learning about vacuum forming, but building a vacuum former could be a valuable skill to pick up for future projects. I’ll definitely keep this in mind as I explore options for production. Appreciate the suggestion :)

@@incubatork Thanks for sharing your thoughts on using the AMS with different filament colors and managing the spools! It's a smart approach for test prints or personal projects where color consistency isn't critical. Regarding the scraper, you're absolutely right about the risks with textured build plates. I've noticed the same issue with certain blades being too sharp and damaging the PEI sheet. In my setup, I only use one particular blade that has a taper on both sides, which doesn't catch on the texture nubs. I've covered this in one of my vlogs where only one out of four blades were safe to use. Flexing the plate to remove objects is indeed a great tip, especially for minimizing wear. Thanks again for the valuable advice :)

@@artspam Thanks for the encouragement! I agree, polygonal modeling has its own unique charm and once you’re comfortable with it, the process can be incredibly satisfying. While CAD software might be faster for certain tasks, I really enjoy the nuances and flexibility that Maya and polygonal modeling offer. It’s great to connect with someone who appreciates this approach :)

@@claytonsmoking I primarily use PETG from CC3D, which has consistently worked well for both my Creality printers and my Bambu Lab A1s. For my production needs, I also source PETG from a specific Chinese brand on Alibaba, it’s cost-effective and the quality meets my requirements perfectly. Here’s a link to the company I purchase from: dwdz.m.en.alibaba.com/index.html?wx_navbar_transparent=true&tracelog=sns_minisite

Thanks for your suggestions! Making the screw smaller is an interesting idea, but I’ve opted for enlarging the screw holes slightly to maintain the strength of the screws, especially since they’re critical for holding together table legs and other structural parts. I appreciate the tip about using PLA interference layers with the AMS for easier support removal, that’s something new to me, and I’m definitely interested in exploring it further. Thanks again for sharing your tips :)

@@RJin3D Thank you for the tips on reducing filament waste with the AMS Lite system! Increasing the layer height and adjusting the flush amount ratio are great strategies I hadn’t considered. Purging to infill sounds useful too, especially for similar colors, I'll be cautious with contrasting colors as you mentioned. Printing multiple copies is also a smart move to minimize changes. I really appreciate your helpful suggestions on making the process more efficient with filament use :)

@@Maine_laser_creations Absolutely, that’s a solid strategy, and one I’ve actually experimented with recently. In a recent vlog, I printed only the joining parts to minimize filament use. However, I did print a full leg specifically to test the strength of a new dowel method for connecting the halves. Now that I’ve confirmed its durability, I’ll continue focusing on printing just the joint areas to test tolerances and conserve filament. Thanks for the suggestion, it’s a great method for efficient prototyping :)

@@Fleshybitz Haha, I get that a lot! Drinking black coffee definitely lets you experience all the subtle flavors, especially when it’s freshly ground from a quality blend of medium and dark roast beans. It took some getting used to, but now I can’t have it any other way! Maybe one day I’ll convert you to a black coffee fan too :D

@@waywardmedia4491 Absolutely, that little misprint turned out to be a fun surprise, giving our panda an unexpected belly button lol! That’s exactly what I thought when I noticed it too! I’m glad someone else saw that little black filament and thought “belly button” just like I did. Thanks for noticing and sharing a laugh about it :)

@@alondinbar6193 Hi, thanks for the comment! I use Maya for 3D modeling :)

@@Dunamis_82 I’m glad you noticed the CR-6 Max back in action! Firing it up again not only brought back good memories but also helped me finish the Lazy Day Tray project I had modeled and forgotten about. It feels great to finally see it come to life. Thanks for your continued support and for being part of the journey :)

@@cloutgoblin That sounds really awesome indeed, and I’d love to look into that option in the Bambu slicer. Using the dump into another print instead of a purge tower could be a game-changer for minimizing waste. Thanks for the tip, I’ll definitely try it out :)

@@3DTheory i have way too many fidget toys now that iam using that option haha.

@@cloutgoblin That's hilarious! I’d probably have just as many fidget toys if I started using that feature sooner. Thanks for sharing the laugh, and it’s a clever way to minimize waste :)

@@PerfectPudding I’m glad you’re enjoying the videos with your coffee! Regarding CC3D, I’ve generally had a good experience with both their PLA+ and PETG. While I recently had a slightly wet spool of PLA+, it still performed well. As for the PETG, it has been consistently good for me so far. It’s unfortunate you’ve had some inconsistency with their PETG, hopefully future spools will be more reliable. CC3D filaments usually hold up well in their sealed bags with desiccant, staying fresh and avoiding brittleness. Thanks for sharing your experiences :)

@@3DTheory Absolutely - I partly blame Amazon as they may not have been kept dry/ stored correctly. After drying them out for ~8 hours they perform very well and are very shiny compared to other PETGs, which speaks well of their strength. I find them useful for functional parts. I'm looking at investing in a vacuum bag sealer soon, so hopefully that allays some of my worries for future storage once they're dried! Thanks again for your vlog - it's always great fun to watch and helps me come up with ideas for my own (hobby) print farm

@@PerfectPudding I'm glad drying the filament worked out well for you! Investing in a vacuum bag sealer sounds like a smart move for maintaining filament quality. Thanks for sharing your experience, it’s awesome to hear the vlogs are fun and inspire ideas for your own projects. Keep up the great work on your print farm :)

@@damiankozlowski3138 Thanks for the kind words and welcome to the world of 3D printing! I can definitely share my settings for the BL A1. I use mostly generic settings with a few personal tweaks. You can see all the details in this video at the 9:48 mark: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iJDIf6qmf5KrkJYsi=3q9Qt2xGuDenUxMo Hope this helps you get started with your new printer :)