@@jbass6182 What is happening is the vintage moog modular also doesn't have a portamento module. In the moog system, the portamento is part of the moog 950 keyboard controller. I interface the behringer into the moog modular and am using the Moog 950 as the control source which gave me the portamento fo both units. No MIDI was used on this demo. I did later on build a little portament module for my Behringer and it works great.

@@vlzmusik you are correct. I meant to mention that but totally forgot. It basically has two state variable filters for what they call upper and lower and then one is switchable to off making it a single low pass filter.

yes, I really like this design, with 2 filters there's so much flexibility. Reminds me what they do in the elka synthex and also oberheim matrix with the reconfiguration of filter poles. Very nice.

@@lesingemonotone I'm sure that's what it is.

@@vincenzocompare6501 thanks for the clarification, appreciate it.

@@nonsuch I agree, if it were mine or going to a player, I would change some things for sure. I believe they were trying to avoid a direct copy of moogs EGs but kinda missed the mark a bit.

@@brettlemmings you're welcome, it was a fun synth to work with. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching. It really is a interesting and unique synth for sure.

Thank you very much, glad you enjoy my videos and music. Thanks again.

Do you think the Model D couldbe modified to sound the same as the real deal? If you listen to the original the Boog sound really good, but does not have the same openness perhaps as the original Moog. I read the mixer section is passive in the original but active in the boog.

@@orenl2444 every unit is a bit different depending on how strong the adhesion is. Typically I start with a heat gun and putty knife. I put some heat in the old membrane and start at the right corner working my way to the left. I use adhesive remover to remove any glues left behind.

Thanks for the great explanation , I think the glue remover should be tested on the plastic and metal surface, I would check if the chemicals don’t damage the materials

@@orenl2444 you're welcome. I never use the adhesive remover on the new membrane panel. It should be noted that the original panel is damaged in the removal process. The adhesive remover is used to prep the metal surface under the membrane for the new replacment membrane panel. NEVER let the adhesive remover come in contact with plastic such as the keys....it will deform them.

@@synthproyes sir👍🏻👍🏻

@@julesl6910 I don't believe that is correct but does have a similar sound. Pink Floyd used a EMS synthi for that sound, it has wide range oscillator control so frequency could be swept from low to high and then they had the noise source in the backgroundto give that motor sound a realistic rotation effect.

@@synthpro They used the recording in combination with the EMS synth

@@maydaygoingdown5602 no, the sample/hold wasn't original to Moog either until later or using the 1120 accessory module.

@@suadcokljat1045 yes, you are correct. I physically take each pot apart by bending tabs and heating up to loosen glues and them flush/lube. If carbon is worn out, I replace pot with donor pot or spec a new component. Thank you very much!

​@@synthpro​ Thank you for such prompt response. Please, one more question - when you relubricate pots, do you apply grease to shaft only or you add some to carbon track and wiper to ease friction? Or you leave carbon trace and wiper clean and dry? Thanks! S

@@suadcokljat1045 I flush the pot itself with Deoxit F5 to remove worn carbon powders and it coats wiper and track with just enough oil. I then I have a special blend of very low viscosity synthetic oils I use to lubricate shank/sleeve. I don't use any grease because that can trap future carbon wear and cause problems. The Allen Bradley pots are very robust and don't require too much but after 50 years the carbon powder does build up especially on high use machines and that is where the scratchy response comes from usually. It is important to inspect while pot is open because on high use machines, the carbon wiper can be worn down to the metal actuator. I do see partially missing carbon in a few cases which effects pot range. Some of these pots have an odd taper response so I have to actually match a replacement pot by testing the response for the location it will be going. Needless to say it's a labor of love🙂

​​​@@synthproThank you for suggestions. I know Deoxit Fader is great product, but too bad its not common in Europe and it costs 3x as in the US. Please, would you be so kind and help with something I didn't see in any of your Minimoog videos (and I've seen them all) - on the late serial numbers with the new oscillator board, there are lot of transistors marked with colored dots. These are various matched and selected transistors and more-less described in the service manual. However, on my mini (sn123xx) all UA741, TL081 and MC1458 opamps on oscillator and buffer boards are marked with red dot (15 opamps total) but there is nothing in service manual about these markings and special requirements. Do you maybe know why did Moog marked these opamps and are there any special requirements for new ones? I see you always replace some opamps (guess 741s) as your standard restoration procedure. Do you use standard new manufactured 741, 081 and 1458 from Mouser/Digikey such as TI, or you search for NOS ICs from 70s and 80s? This about Moog component markings, matching and selecting should be great theme for one of your future videos. Thanks and cheers! S

@@sergemoreillon1236 thank you, appreciate you watching!

@@jbass6182 for this demo I was actually using the vintage moog 950 keyboard from the moog modular. This was a 100% analog setup. I also have a demo using the MIDI to CV converter which is also nice, it can be setup as a duophonic instrument where you actually get two CV voltages from two MIDI notes, (sort of like the Arp Odyssey).

Thanks. I appreciate you watching.

The tracings are actually quite large compared to newer instrumens but not as wide as some of the vintage gear. I do like how its all through hole design. Thanks, glad you like the mods.

Thank you very much, appreciate the support and the time taken to watch this video!

@@tortugacastro thank you very much. Unfortunately, there is no room in the MG-1 to stabally mount a pitch wheel. With this said, I have added foot pedal pitch control to other moogs which could be done to these fairly easy. You could use a Moog EP-3 style pedal.

@@JimmyJimbopants I think they are both good depending on what the musician is after. With that said, this is what you do get with hardware based synths, this is probably only important to people like myself who mostly uses hardware instruments but is things to take into consideration when comparing software to hardware: 1. You have physical controls physical patching on the spot. 2. not susceptible to software updates or loss of future support. 3. gives you actual CV voltages to work with between other instruments allowing (in my case) to build and experiment with new circuit ideas. I'm certainly not against VST instruments and don't want to come off that way with this comment, I think there are some really great ones out there and especially for the super rare stuff.