I’m not sure what its power is, but I’m not running it at 12 volts; I’m running it at 24 volts.

Thank you! Glad you enjoyed the video. To answer your questions, I went with the dual midrange BA purely due to their frequency response. At the time, I determined that they would fit the overall response that I was going for the best; they were chosen over a single BA because of a better response. Yes, the small resonance chamber was designed in CAD, as was the shell and all internal structures so that each set I create is perfectly repeatable and accurate. I went through well over 100 revisions to get all the drivers to cooperate correctly. For resin, I don’t use any specialized resin because the skin-friendly property is instead found in the expensive Dreve Lack 3 lacquer that I apply for a polished surface finish. If you want to print your own shells, I would recommend Elegoo’s water washable resin due to its minimal odor and easy post-processing so long as you also apply a skin-safe lacquer. Hope this helps!!

​@@GearheadCreations what do you mean specifically when you say dual BA's had a better response? I'm not sure what you mean by that. 100 revisions! 😲oof! Personally I can see myself 3D printing an acoustic chamber sleeve for the DD and adjusting lengths of sound tube for the BA's and bundling them into a simple shell until I'm happy then transfering those measurements into a CAD model. (but it's never that simple right) How was your experience alligning the phase of the drivers? I understand that's a tedious task when creating hybrid iem's and I'm not sure I undestand yet how to adjust that beyong simply adjusting the length of the sound tubes? Is that all you had to do?

@@pqr590 Yeah, when I talk about certain BAs having a "better response" I mean that the output of those BAs combined have a graph that, to my eyes, will best fit the overall tune for an IEM that I am trying to achieve. So for example, I might have to choose between a single BA whose graph has a quicker rolloff at 6khz versus a composite (dual) BA whose graph does not rolloff as severely at 6khz. However, this does not mean that every dual BA is better than a single BA; it is purely dependent on multiple IEM design factors such as the other drivers being used in a hybrid, the shell and tube design, resonators, and what kind of tuning the designer is aiming to achieve. And yep, most of the R&D process for me is literally just scrapping designs and making teeny tiny changes in CAD to see how it affects everything else. There are an unlimited number of variables that can be altered, so it is best to understand what makes a good IEM successful before beginning the design process of your own set. For phase alignment, since I do not have the technology or time to use any other process, I tend to eyeball driver position in CAD and make micro-adjustments from there. Most of the time proper phase alignment can be achieved by tube length, tube shape, tube diameter, and crossover design, but for the most part you'll just want to focus on one of those variables, namely tube length. It is quite a tedious process, yes, but once you figure out how it works the first time, it gets easier for later creations.

​@@GearheadCreations I see, so certain drivers perform best for different parts of the eq spectrum. Can you share what you learned/mean about what makes a good IEM successful? What do you mean by tube shape? I thought they just came in uh, 'round' haha.

@@pqr590 Exactly. I find that a tucked bass shelf that stops around 200hz gives a nice, fast, powerful sound for the bass region, so that’s usually how I tune my DDs. In the BA region, I tend to look for BAs that have a smooth bump in the 3khz region as well as super tweeters that extend past 10khz easily and don’t have too many quick dips or peaks. In terms of tube shape, you’ll find that more oval-shaped tubes maximize high frequency output, but that depends also on what drivers you use. Everything just depends haha

Should also think of an expansion chamber scavenge the exhaust pressure.

310mm dia. x 250mm I believe

So glad you liked it!! I absolutely loved this machine, but unfortunately ended up selling it a few months after this video in order to fund a bigger project. I do want to build another one someday though!

@@GearheadCreations You are lucky to be in the States, delivery and import tax adds $150 to a Voron Zero. If I could get one for $300 I'd move on it so fast I'd be a blur.

Ahh yep. Shipping rates can make or break a good deal for sure

Yep, it BARELY fits haha. I designed a simple quad bearing roller system that connects to the 2020 extrusion and the electronic compartment cover

Oh yeah, that’s absolutely the main reason I think. I just haven’t found it to be a big enough issue for me to replace the stock steppers. For the future, however, I’ll definitely stick to 1.8 haha

Thanks man!!

I am! I’ve never hand-delivered any of my products, but shipping should be very quick

Yup, same with Blessing 2, Blessing 3, Dusk, Darksaber, and Variations. All 3D printed :)

@@GearheadCreations very nice. I never knew they did that until I bought these and noticed the subtle voxel pattern and texture that matches my resin prints. I just hope they used high quality resin that's not brittle but I've dropped them many times and every time they break it's just the glue that fails. Last time I repaired them I used epoxy and I'm hoping that holds up better than CA glue.

If they break again, I’d highly recommend trying some UV nail polish lacquer; I use that stuff for securing drivers in place :)

@@GearheadCreations alright thanks I'll try that next time! I've thought about getting that stuff but I wasn't sure how durable it'd be.

Absolutely, and if/when you go that route, try this brand: a.co/d/cxdNsuC

drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-61bsdAH8g_Bz6MeuX-K4DfnGdR-y1v5

Yeah, see if you watched the video, you would see that I use a skin-safe lacquer used by every IEM company out there

@@GearheadCreations Okay, cool. Wasn't interested in the topic, but when I saw the title I thought I'd drop in just to make sure you knew thats all.

Gotcha

Correct, I was not using a heated bed at the time. I opted to use a glue stick and all my prints stuck perfectly fine! :)

Hi! This is the 250mm version. I followed a basic tutorial online for the installation of umbilical which uses BTT’s clip STLs

Nice, thanks for the reply!

Haha thanks man

Yes, I believe so! This is my Google Drive with all of Phoenix’s STLs: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-61bsdAH8g_Bz6MeuX-K4DfnGdR-y1v5

Thanks

@@GearheadCreations The green adapter that attaches the sherpa to the effector is not in your google drive. can you see if you have it available? thanks

Whoops, sorry about that; the file should be there now

@@GearheadCreations Thanks - got it!

Thanks for watching! I’ll keep those things in mind for next video

@@GearheadCreations thank you for taking your time and reading my BS :)

Hey, criticism is vital to improving future videos, so thanks for the input

Hey, that is awesome to hear! Tetrad is a really fun set in my opinion. The reason that Hexad currently doesn’t have photos is because it’s in the preorder stage and I do not have a fully polished unit to present quite yet. That one should be ready hopefully around August. Also, if shipping is way too expensive I’d be willing to help create a custom order to make shipping a bit cheaper

@@GearheadCreations that would be amazing! Thank you for trying to help! I will be sure to reach out when i'm ready!

Haha that’s great that you ask! I currently don’t have any public FR graph for Hexad, as I’m still working on its tune. That set should be ready around mid-summer

Hey man, if you’d like a set I’m sure we could work something out for you

@@GearheadCreations thanks alot, IEMs is a tough topic. ive testet 6 pairs of IEMs last time ive ordered new ones. hard to test them before deciding to buy

I actually remixed a pair of 608 bearing spool rollers to attach to a 2020 rail ;)

@@GearheadCreations Do you mind sharing this? I just built a 250mm Trident and having a hard time internal spool holder that fits. Thanks

It uses a standard 0.78 2-pin wired connection, but can be made wireless with an adapter

@@GearheadCreations cheers

Thanks, glad you enjoyed it! I used Polymaker’s Galaxy Orange ABS for the accents :)

@@GearheadCreations thank you

Thank you!

Yes, I use Klipper. To calibrate the first layer I use 3-point automatic bed leveling with the Duet Smart Effector

Thank you! No, unfortunately this is not open source. I am selling it as a complete product on my website with a cable, case, and tips on symphonyears.com though!

​@@GearheadCreations you do realize that "gift" doesn't mean product you have to buy ...

No, but it does mean that I spent countless hours and threw away a bunch of my time in order to present y’all with some really solid IEMs for a reasonable price :)

Thanks! I first sand down the resin shells, then apply a special lacquer which is pretty much magic haha

@@GearheadCreations I would love to hear more about this lacquer. I tried a few but had bad results. would you happen to have the name of that lacquer? (not asking for it, but I would watch a video on that whole process ;) )

Absolutely! I might dedicate an entire video showing the build process in the future. I use a lacquer called Fotoplast Lack 3, which can be found on Aliexpress from the Soundlink store. Since this stuff isn’t cheap, I’d also recommend trying a nail lacquer by Mia Secret on Amazon if you just wanna get started.

@@GearheadCreations thank you! <3 (I would love that video)

This is where I bought it, but it’s not on sale at the moment: a.aliexpress.com/_mOtTwFC

Thank you! It really has been quite the project haha. Really glad to hear that you enjoyed it though.

Oh?

You, on the other hand, sound exactly as pretentious as every other so-called audiophile I've ever seen.

@@fallingwater I'm terribly sorry my good Sir that my reply didn't elevate to your exquisite exelence. If I am allowed, I shall offer a crisp withy reply or would a smooth apology satisfy thy tastes more.

@@asddsa-dy4ne agree with fallingwater, you're the reason audiophile community gets hate. do better.

@@castffx1728 I'm not part of the audiophile community. I just don't like the word diarrhea they spew out. did you even read the original comment?

Thanks man! Yes, you should absolutely get into 3D printing; it’s incredibly rewarding once you get the hang of it

Never tried it on this machine since I only used an Orange Pi which doesn’t have the correct output