The fog light is the small lights all the way at the bottom of the bumper. It's not in the head light cluster.

I was actually just referred to that computer too. I was going to buy one and test it out. I'll let you know what I think. I'll probably be posting a video about it shortly.

The 2023 N Line actually has a different engine. It has a 1.6L turbo. It'll take 5.1 quarts of 0W20 and it has a cartridge style oil filter so it'll probably be on top of the engine instead of underneath.

Yes you should be able to get to the turn signal from the bottom. Might be easier from the bottom than from the top.

Yes that would work too if you do it right after having the car on. But if your car is already off, you'll have to press the switch that much. And I agree, there has to be an easier way.

I actually wasn't able to find any aftermarket sparkplug at the time. I went to my local Hyundai dealer and got original parts.

Mean happened to me I’m very upset about ti

Yes it's the same for all trims and for most other models with the same style wipers that are tucked under the hood.

Torque the oil drain plug to about 25ft/lbs

its a normal ratchet and a spark plug socket. the sockets usually come in 3-4 different sizes, take a new spark plug to an auto parts store and they can get you the right one

@@fcolbe001 thank you.

Glad I could help!

You would have to check the warranty conditions for oil changes. In Canada, Hyundai only requires that you have receipts that show the type of oil and quantity, so they can make sure you're putting the right stuff in your car. I usually do the first oil change with the dealer just so you could make sure everything is running properly and you have a file open. After that, just make sure you keep all receipts.

@@franksdiygarage my dealer said the first change is at 8k miles I don’t trust it one bit. My owners manual says like 6k or 3k for harsh driving. I want it done around 1k to clear out the break in oil

You can change your own oil I recommend you use the Hyundai oil filter that way they can't dog you on that in case you have problems and keep your receipts.

Sorry about that, I realized that I must have skipped over that part in the video. I was able to get in there with a standard oil filter plier wrench. When using Amsoil oil filters, you can get a filter socket that fits on a 3/8 wrench, which makes installing and removal of the oil filter much easier, especially in tighter spaces.

You are absolutely right! I always have wheel chocks behind the rear wheels when the car is in the air.

I got the pads from RockAuto. They're raybestos element3, and it cost me about $90US ($125CA) for front and rear.

@@franksdiygarage Thanks!

If you live in Canada, you could get them at CanadianTire. In the US, I don't know if AutoZone would have this, but I'm sure you could find some on Amazon or Summit Racing.

Sorry for the late reply. I would check to make sure the pads are able to slide easily in the bracket and make sure nothing is preventing them from moving back off the disc when you let off the brakes. Sometimes there's rust that builds up under the metal bracket that prevents the pads from sliding properly

You're absolutely right .... the worst part is, I know that lol it just comes out different sometimes 😂

I actually had some on another vehicle that broke off. They are pretty hard to find. I haven't been able to find some, but I will let you know if ever I do.

The Acura CSX takes regular automatic transmission fluid. For the best protection and against wear and sludge, I would recommend Amsoil OE multi-vehicle synthetic automatic transmission fluid. 2.9 liters initial fill. Please check your user manual for the quantity needed for your model. Follow the link below for more info. franksdiygarage.wboil.com/storefront/otf.html

You can do that electronically with a scanning tool that has EPB reset/service tool or manually with a hex key this would need a bit more extra work.

You go counter-clockwise meaning you spin to the left

You are absolutely right! It just make it easier to clean when the bracket is removed but it is not necessary.

Yep just did my 2020 Sante Fe last night and just push the tabs gently and off the pads come.Also those 17mm bolts need loctite on em the same way they should’ve came from factory👍

Tightening torque: Caliper assembly to knuckle : 78.5 ~ 98.1 N.m (57.9 ~ 72.3 lb-ft) Guide rod bolt (into caliper body) : 21.6 ~ 31.4 N.m (15.9 ~ 23.1 lb-ft)

@@franksdiygarage You are awesome! Thx!

@@franksdiygarage Hi Frank, one more question (dang, I thought I was done ;-) Do you know what is the acceptable thickness of the rotors before they need to be replaced?

@@s2kvozac very good questions. It's not information people ask about very often but very important to know. Front brake disc thickness Standard : 28 mm (1.10 in) Service limit : 26 mm (1.02 in) Rear Brake disc thickness Standard: 11 mm (0.43 in) Service limit: 9.4 mm (0.37 in) Front Pad thickness Standard value: 11 mm (0.43 in) Service limit: 2.0 mm (0.0787 in) Rear Pad thickness Standard value: 10 mm (0.393 in) Service limit: 2.0 mm (0.0787 in)

@@franksdiygarage Greatly appreciated!

If you bring your car to a garage or to the dealer, they will use a computer to communicate with the ECU to put the electronic parking brake (EPB) into service mode, but these computers can be quite pricey for a DIYer. What this does is completely releases the EPB and disables the actuator. The reason for this is because these vehicles are capable of engaging the EPB if it detects an incline, even if the car is turned off. The way this could cause damage to the actuator is if it engages while the caliper is off the disk, it will push the piston all the way out and hyper extend, or if it engages while you're pushing the piston back into the caliper, it will force the motor and can cause damage. Now that being said, there are numerous ways to make sure the EPB does not engage. The way I did it on my video is by making sure the EPB is released and unplugging the actuator on the caliper, always making sure that the EPB did not engage. This way does make it a little harder to twist the piston back. Another way to do it is to remove the actuator from the caliper. There are 2 torx screws that hold the actuator motor to the caliper. Once the motor is off, you could use a torx from behind the piston to bring the piston back into the caliper. This is the easier way to bring the piston in but those torx screws can be very hard to get out because of the rust and road grime that can get built up over time, and if you strip one of these, you'll most likely have to replace the caliper.

I honestly haven't had to change one yet. You should have two dust covers, one on top of the other. That's for the low beam and high beam. The turn signal should be right under those dust covers, but turn signals don't usually have dust covers. You might have better access from the bottom like the fog lights instead of from the top I will look into it for you and keep you updated.

It depends on which is worn out more. Generally the rear brakes will ware out faster than the front because they are smaller. But you also have to make sure all the pads are waring out evenly on each side. Even if you have 60% left on your pads but they are unevenly warn, you'll have to change them and look into why they are unevenly warn. Could just be the slider pins and have to be lubricated, or it could be the caliper that's seized. As long as you clean everything out, get everything lubricated and make sure everything is sliding smoothly, everything should continue to work properly.

For the front caliper, no need to turn the piston, just an even pressure will do. For the rear caliper, you have to turn clockwise to bring the piston in. It will be hard to turn at first but it gets easier as the pison compresses.