HKS product ID is 31019-AF024

Thanks, its a Fujifilm X-pro2 with an xf10-24mm f4.0 MkII ois. Its mounted to the roll bar x brace with a Calumet Studio Clamp and Drag Control Ball Head (large).

Thanks, just finding my feet and style at the moment. Been aquiring more filming equipment this year so hoping to gradual increase the frequency and quailty 🙏🏻

Nice!! Do you have pictures of it anywhere? Considering a Vary bonnet for this at the moment, I've been trying to keep a stock-ish exterior and a slight fender/arch pull instead of widebody but some functional exterior additions are something I'm considering (like the Zoom headlight vent I added recently). Carbs are amazing, a little more continual maintenance needed than efi based ITBs but sound so, so good.

Yep got a few photos actually

Ahh man, that sucks. He sold them for quite while and did some large batches but too many people slept on them at the time, the fit an finish is so so good. Have you reached out to him directly?

Asking how much power an ITB build makes is like asking a woman how old she is, take a guess and keep it to yourself 😂😂. What would you expect from a 1.6 NA ITB build? In all seriousness, I haven't dyno'd it as of yet as I've been road tuning and getting year round driveability perfect and adding parts to the build. I think next year I'll get it on a dyno for sure tho.

@batousan_ when you do, let me know 👌

@@47kotzur Will do, do dampen your expectations 1.6 builds usually max out around 100hp p/litre, maybe a tad more with a full engine refresh. Saw one recently with a full refresh, ITBs, cams etc and it made 167-169bhp which is pretty amazing for this engine. If you need more, BP VVT build or engine swap is the move. 👍🏻

@@batousan_ In curious. Not gonna lie

I ran this car as a daily for 4 years as my only car at the time, I would have no problem doing the same now if it wasn't for the state of the roads and size of speed humps so I'm a bit more selective where I drive it. Its done 8000km since the ITBs in the last year and a half. I tend to avoid driving it during the winter months or when theres salt on the road as I want it to last many years. 300hp Subaru Forester STI on Ce28N and coilovers is my daily driver ✌🏻

@@batousan_ good combo! I’m torn at the moment between buying a nearly new MX5 ND and spending money on mods making it something special (suspension, cams, exhaust etc.) or a getting a low mileage GR Yaris. I only have space/funds for 1 car so it needs to do the daily duties. Judging off what you use as your daily the Yaris would probably be the sensible option for me.

@@Throttle.Monkey Both really quite expensive new or close to new, you can pick up a used ND for reasonable money though. If you can stretch to buying two cars by going used then you wont have to compromise on enjoyment. They are both so different, I've never really used my sensible head apart from on the Subaru, I really wanted a jdm bugeye STi but decided a big boot would be more practical so imported the Japan only Forester STi... given the boot is currently full of Hankook RS4s and wheels it was the right choice 😂

That was the plan, I don't fit in an Elan but that was kinda the idea. I homage to an Elan with a sound track to match 👍🏻

The ECU strategy uses a blend of speed density and alpha-n to calculate load. I have 4 vacuum lines coming from each runner that feed into a vacuum block, a reading from this is filtered and fed back to the MAP sensor on the ECU. There is also another sensor that registers the barometric pressure, combined with the throttle position and intake air temperature sensors it can calculate the an approximation of load for accurate fuelling. The MAP reading from the vacuum block allows fine tuning of idle and small inputs, but the majority of the load for fueling is calulated using TPS, IAT and BAP (and of course RPM), it is very important that your injector data and sensors are all calibrated and accurate for this to work well. I use lots of logic based virtual inputs that the ecu uses to get a better picture of where the engine is in load, warm up, headsoak etc and to catch any unsual engine situations along with a knock sensor even though its unlikely for an na engine like this to be limited by knock.

@@batousan_ Thanks for the detailed answer 🤙

In someways if you are starting from scratch it can be expensive but I've owned the car for a long time and the costs have been spread out over time. I do all of the work on the car myself which saves a huge amount as opposed to paying someone to fit and tune everything. I'm certainly not Porsche money into this car yet, my only regret would be not buying a 964 when they were still affordable but that was well before the I had the Roadster.

I'm not down there as much as I used to be, usually after some major work I use it as a bit of a test run. Got a lot busier over the years. Watch out for bin lorries on that blind section around midday. I nearly got sandwiched between one and an X5 as they stop on the road 🙈

No unwanted vibrations, really smooth running. BUT, the Toda kit (Flywheel, clutch and pressure plate) is all balanced together by Toda racing to reduce harmonics, you might not get this from the RPC. This was one of the main reasons for me going for this kit over others, I don't want to ruin the enjoyment of the car under nomal driving too.

@@batousan_ Ah I see, I guess I'll have to just try the RPC and hope for the best. If there are some vibrations I'll have to just put up with it or switch to a 4.5kg flywheel at a later date, although your video has made me really want the RPC

@@willwastaken The Toda kit is not really that expensive if you go through Jesse Streeter. Believe me, once you do this job you'll not want to do it again in a rush, I reckon it would have been quicker taking the engine out to remove the box rather than bench pressing it from the floor 😂

@@batousan_ I'm in the UK, so I doubt I can get the Toda. And I wouldn't be doing the work myself, I'll just pay my mechanic to do it (he builds Japanese cars for a living and charges me 50% less than regular customers 🙂)

@@willwastaken I'm also in the UK, ordered through Jesse. Message me on IG if you need help with ordering @batousan on ig 👍🏻

rs_harada japan centre and rear muffler with racing beat header, same exhaust just different microphone/placement

I'm running extended arms and non oem uppers which affects the offset and fitment. The rears are O disk and the fronts are A disk Equips. I don't give out offset specs as usually people go out and buy cheap reps instead in that size which makes me sad. If you need help measuring up what offset you need for your setup, happy to advise how to go about it.

I mean it feels fine for driving around normally and not underpowered but the power is more up top for sure. My other car is a Subaru STI so its hard for me to judge exactly which has way more torque of course. I tend to drive this car more up the top of the rev band anyway, because thats how an NA car should be 😊

Check out my other recent vids, you'll be proved right. Toda 3.5kg flywheel ✅

​@@batousan_were you active in Nutz 2009-2012?

@@samulis8275 Nope, I had a MINI R53 at that time :)

Its a fair bit louder in the car, if you check out the vid from last year thats representative of the in car sound before I went cams and ported head. Its significantly louder now (hence why the mic couldn't handle the volume) under the bonnet, but in car its not too bad. Theres another vid I put out that has an in car mic, the sound is not that crisp but gives an idea of volume.

Not sure, not really had an incentive to dyno it yet. Maybe next year

Brown and Geeson 👍🏻

@@batousan_ thanks for getting back to me. What quick release did you use and is that all you need, along with the steering wheel of course. I ask because getting information from the company I buy parts from is non existent. David