Enable "//Serial.print(F("PWM ")); // serial monitor output" in the code :)

Unfortunately, no, I may get around to it, I have designed a PCB to build a proto type before I order them. Maybe the end of this year I will have time to complete this project. Check out my GitHub page, all the information is there to follow 😊 You could easerly build this on a perfboard instead of PCB then put in a housing of your choice.

😅​@@pablofpv

Follow the Github link above :)

The wing is covered in ordinary 50mm white parcel tape, the trick is to carefully plan out how you are going to apply it and when laid use an old credit card and hot air gun on low heat and to smooth out any wrinkles.I have only flown it so far in winds under 15 mph. You can fly it in higher winds as others have done on YT, to get the most out of it you would need to add some more weight to the nose. By comparison I regularly fly my quads in 25 mph+ winds as they weigh 600g they can deal with the higher wind speed.

Yes, I just used parcel tape and smoothed out with a warm iron. I did experiment with laminating film, however I found the foam would deform when heated and there was a larger weight penalty compare to simple parcel tape :) .

Thanks 😀 I have tried to keep this build as simple as possible, it has taken me a long time as I have been working on other projects. I now need some nice weather to get out and fly...

1) total length of fuselage, so one can determine how much of the boom to cut off 485mm from nose to tail or the end of rudder is 135mm back from the fuse rear cut out For wing. Rudder is 125mm long at its base where it attaches to rear of fuse and has 2 x 3mm carbon rods For support and hot glued in place. 2) width and length of the elevons and the fixed outer surfaces. Elevons 220mm x 50mm, outer wing surfaces 185mm x 50mm (wing edge join) and 170mm x 48mm (outer edge and rounded edge). The outer wing surfaces are mounted using 26mm x 2mm carbon rods and hot glue. Wings are covered with 50mm white packing tape. 3) how much deflection up of the elevons measured from flat bottom to lower trailing edge deflection is 14mm up and 14mm down (this max at the moment) this is measured from outer edge relative to neutral. Extra info ... Wing spars are 4mm x 450mm and 28mm and 100mm back from leading edge, clip is in the middle. Servos are 47mm back from leading edge and 54mm away from fuse near the leading edge and 56mm away from the fuse at the trailing edge. Foam cut out at the nose and canopy was done with a Dremel and a Dremel Rotary Cutting Guide Multi Tool Attachment Kit HSS Router Drill Bit (if you have not done this before, practice on scrap piece 1st!). Canopy secured by 6 x Neodymium Disc Magnets 6x3mm cyno glue. Wing clip is a Plastic Safety Breakaway Bra 😊 Buckles Webbing 25mm Wide. See through RX cover is from a spare blade’s container for a box cutter, cut to size and by pure chance was the exact depth and width I chose to cut out for the RX and RP2040 zero voltage sensor. 😊

​thanks a lot! !!

​@@pablofpvand also very interesting the RP2040 telemetry,

Thanks, I didn't intentionally leave the code out, unfortunately life just got in the way and I have been busy with other things, so I never got around to posting the code… I have just uploaded Version 5 of the code I was last working on, have a go with this, however use caution when using my code. I will eventually get around to adding more to this project when I have the time 😊.

@@pablofpv Thanks for posting the code. I understand that this is a living project. I will use it just as a kickstarter and watch regularly the progress you will make. Thanks again

Thanks 😊, it’s an ongoing project, I will post a more detailed video and my GitHub page soon....

Take your time, good luck :)

😀 Thanks, really nice plane to learn to fly.

OmnibusF4 Pro V2/V3 modified by removing a diode to isolate the 5V rail. This means you can plug in an external 5V supply to power your Servo’s, as the original Omnibus output is only 4.6V, also I have enabled Soft Serial CH6 TX and made a connection from CH6 TX pad to PWM5 pin and this connects to the Matek VTX RX pad to enable Tramp IRC control. It can support 2 motors and 4 servo’s in INAV. The Omnibus is a very capable FC, ideal for INAV and planes, also it’s very cheap! 😊

@@pablofpv could it handle 6s battery?i have some akk f4sd

@@maybayson4203 Not this version 5s max, I believe there is 6s version of the Omnibus? or just put a different FC in, the Vector on 6s would be a rocket!

It seems so smooth. 👍 What is the wingspan and takeoff weight?

@@mihavuk I have cheated a bit and done some stabilization in my video editing software, also it was a very calm day. I find with planes you will nearly always have some jitter in your video, with quads I do not use any pre or post stabilization of my video, if you tune your quad properly you can get very stable footage, also how you fly has a lot to do with smooth video 😊. Flying weight is 571g and I have trimmed the wings after this video and the are now 660mm, this has actually improved the performance, all measurements and details are here github.com/Pablo18011/Vector

Thanks, from memory I think it was 2 sheets of 5mm A1 size is 841 x 594mm - ( 33.1 x 23.4 inches ). It was one of my favourite builds, unfortunately, it’s no longer ☹ after the Velcro failed on the lipo and it fell off mid-flight! I'm now experimenting with Correx sheets for builds kzbin.info/www/bejne/d36tpIKKbNuUf6s Different beast, fast and tough, but not as stable as the Tiny Trainer 😊....

Thanks, the one you see in the video is made of all 3mm PVC Correx type board, apart from the vertical stabilizers and VTX cover are 4mm PVC. PVC is easy to glue with CA or Hot glue, but will crack with a hard impact.I have now built a new version from 3mm/4mm polypropylene it's genuine Correx and a lot lighter it has a Caddx 4K loris installed next to the Caddx Ant FPV camera and weighs 571gm with a 1500mAh lipo. Polypropylene is tricky to glue, but can be done, just clean it with "White Spirit" let it completely dry, then dab little dots of CA glue to one side and press together with a bit of weight on it and leave it for 10mins. I will upload a video when I get time and check out Github as I will upload the latest version of my plans, you can still use the original ones, but I have made tweaks to the wing design,fuselage and camera tray.

@@pablofpv Thanks for the info, having watched the vids again I realise you mention the thicknesses you use - I was watching with my eyes not my ears first time! I will wait for the revised plans as I still have my 75% goblin to keep me entertained in the meantime - it's like flying a rocket powered slippery eel.

HI Pablo, Couldn't wait - have built one of these. Mine needed a very small amount of reflex and the cg is slightly forward of yours. Flies like a dream - very fast and maneuverable and glides well, drew a few comments when I flew it at the club. Flying on 3s at the moment with 6 x 4 prop. All up weight with 1700 3s battery is 530g. Once again many thanks for the plans - I will keep an eye out for any others you come up with!

@@stevemarsden5708 That’s awesome, it’s why I published the plans 😊... Mine has servo rate set to 80% and 40% expo, it does glide well. I have completed my Vector CLV build and if the weather holds I will maiden it this weekend. I will post a video and upload the plans.

Thanks, I will update soon with a lighter version I'm building, all 2mm polypropylene , with changes to the nose and has a Caddx Loris 4K installed next to the FPV camera. 😊

Thanks :)

Thanks, I will put them on my GitHub repo when I have finished updating, as it’s a work in progress. I’m working on correcting the wing plans at the moment and I have designed a fuselage that can take a 4K Caddx Loris, I have test flown this on the original vector and the result are really good. I will also do an update video of this and the difference between polypropylene and PVC fluted sheets. Using a CNC would be the way forward, but the files I have are really templates, as when you cut them out, you still have to cut the recess one side to join them together. This is the quirk of Correx? The good news, I now have fluted sheets that are 3.0mm 350gm/ m2 compared to 540gm/ m2 I used on the original! You can always down load the printable plans from GitHub and have a go at just making the fuselage? PVC use CA glue or polypropylene use hot glue or glue specifically made for polypropylene, as it can be difficult to glue.

​@@pablofpv Thank you for the answer. In my country (Italy) is not easy to found foam board, instead of polypropylene and PVC that are easy to get (for free), they are used for EURO pallet packaging of wine bottle. Actually I am building an FT goblin in 4 mm black XPS with a layer of aluminium, it is really rigid. The surface of foam to build the goblin is circa 1 m^2, my 4 mm xps is 40kg/m^3 so the weight will be 170g (of only foam )circa, nice? I have a second question, I saw that you use frsky radio.. I bought a Frsky Taranis X7S with a R9M module two weeks ago. HobbyKing has only FrSky XM Plus (2.4Ghz full range) avaiable for EU, do you think it can get 1km range? It is a EU version, my radio is FCC, is it okay?

@@danilozichittella2655 Sounds like a nice build, I don't have any experience on the XM Plus, but I have flown other 2.4GHz modules. You should have no problem with 1Km range, just mount your antenna to optimize your range. The FT Goblin is great plane and can be fast, depending on motor and prop you use. Post a video when you get it in the air, good luck :)

@@pablofpv sure! I will use: Racestar 2205 2300kV 30A ESC 6040 prop 1400 mah 4s or a 850mah 4s

25/200/500mw 😀

Yep, lucky the prop was not spinning when it hit me 😁 I have a built a Correx plastic version of the Flite Test FT Goblin, thats very fast. I will be posting a video soon...

@@pablofpv nice man can’t wait to see it

Thanks 😁

Thank you, when you are in the moment everything else just fades away……. If you fly fpv you get that!😌

Thanks 😊

Thanks for your kind words, I fly the way I feel. When I’m looking more at the scenery and just enjoying what’s around me, that’s usually when I’m flying at my best.😌

Thank you...!!! :)

Use Open TX companion .2.2.4 to flash firmware ,from memory I did not have to load the bootloader first ,I just plugged in my Taranis to my computer reflashed my back up.I think this loaded the bootloader then the firmware.Good luck.

Thanks for the positive comments ,I may change the end tune( or at least lower the volume). I would love to have more time to make these videos , as I want to put something back into the hobby . :)

Good man! :D I think I will attempt this even though it seems a bit Hard to do. Mut the biggest question In my mind that Is It really ok for me to source the processor anywhere (I think I'll get it from mouser)? It doesn't need to have any taranis specific bootloader In it or nothing? I suppose all other code Is stored somewhere else but was just wondering if any stm32f205vet6 is compatible as long as it Is the same model physically? Or Is there software querks?

@@taneliharkonen2463 So long as you use this exact version uk.rs-online.com/web/p/microcontrollers/7931399/ "STMicroelectronics STM32F205VET6, 32bit ARM Cortex M3 Microcontroller, 120MHz, 512 kB Flash, 100-Pin LQFP " You could get it from the link above or Mouser. There is nothing special about this Chip or program installed ,so if you complete the repair ,the first thing you will have to do is flash Open TX to your Taranis ,otherwise it will not power up.The best advice I can give is practice first on say an old FC as they use similar STM processors, it is difficult to do but not impossible. Unless you have access to a reflow station and have the skills this an alternative method.Use plenty of flux ,and the smallest tip soldering iron you can find ,the hardest part is alligning the chip so all 100 pins are correct ,tag one in each corner ,check all through scope then use the solder wipe method to the pins.If you bridge a joint ,just clean your tip and place on the bridge ,solder should flow to the clean tip. Good luck.

@@pablofpv Thank you so much for the info! :D You know ur stuff! :D

Hi Oleg, I have not had any major issues with my R9mm, i use flex firmware and matched the firmware with both TX and RX.I use the FrSky 868MHz Dipole T IPEX4 Receiver Antenna and ditched the original, also I use a FrSky 868MHz Super 8 Antenna on my Taranis and both are polarised horizontally. Mine is fitted to the rear of my Martian bottom plate frame, I have had over 1 mile out on a 6" quad with still very good rsi, I have the same set up on 2 quads.I don't no if this has anything to do with it, but I 4 x low esr capacitors fitted to my esc's and 1 to the Vbat in. Never had a failsafe, only had twiches ocassionally which I believe is signal loss or blocked or interference. I hope this helps.

You could fit a gps and have rescue mode and enable logs to try and fault find problem?

@@pablofpv Thanks friend almost helped.

Thanks 😁👍

Thanks, that's the limit of my camera GoPro session 5, I have not tried it but I may up scale to 60fps(if I can) and see the result?

I just noticed this was over a year ago lol. My bad I doubt you remember shipping times lol

@@danielcausby301 That's ok, shipping to the UK was about 3 weeks, I still have the EV800D's ,but now use EV200D's. The EV800D's are really good for the cost, what I had to do to mine was to move the internal lens closer to my eye's so I could focus properly ,you have I think about 20mm of play, without having to cut the lens down. Also, top tip, mount a 3s lipo on the back of the head strap and buy or make a cable to power them. This will balance them out perfectly and you will get a longer time of use. The EV800D DVR video quality is better than my EV200Ds...