I have. They are controlled by the generator controller. When issues start to arise with them, I will typically bypass them and install a heater with its own controls which is usually its own thermostat. Just make sure that when the engine runs, the heater is off. It’s typically done through a power relay or a contactor that is controlled by the run circuit.. When the run circuit energizes, the relay will open, removing power to the heater.

@mlke4258 Thank you for your reply. I'm in the Chicagoland area and Winter is coming and a lot of jacket water issues. Thank you for the videos you put out. It's good to learn from experienced field techs.

I would install a mechanical gauge inline with or in place of the oil pressure sender so you can determine if you actually have a legitimate low oil pressure issue versus a connection issue. That would be step 1.

Yes.. There is two likely causes. Either your damper assembly is older and maybe binding in some spots or, the actuators are configured to energizing to open.. In this video here, I simulate these opening by turning the breaker to these off. They are powered closed!! The reason you want them powered closed is in case you lose power, they will open. It’s a fail safe.. In older gensets they used to use the output of the generator to open them. The thinking there was that they will open when the unit runs. Again they take longer to open when you are energizing them to open versus letting them open via their internal spring mechanism.. The way they should be setup is so they have a dedicated power source that runs through a normally closed relay that changes states when your generator runs. The relay is controlled from the engines fuel circuit if diesel or ignition circuit if nat gas. A quick test is to see if they close faster than they open. Also listen to the sound they make in this video. When they’re opening- that’s them opening via their internal spring mechanism vs when they close it’s a slower, labored process as the internal motor is working against the internal spring to rewind/recharge the actuator. Use a non-contact voltage detector or a wiggy as some call and hold it next to the conductor for your actuator. It should have power going to it when the genset is not running and when you start your genset- power should go away.

If you’re using it on road, I’d brim it as well.. Sitting in the sun for any length of time, and it’s going to ooze on out… He overfilled by accident.. I just do t get why he didn’t pump it back down.. He had to have known that was going to happen..

The guy was used to filling up gas stations.. I guess when he turned that pump on, he had it set like he was filling up someone’s oil tank in their house.. I guess he took a pretty good bath in it.. Like filling a shot glass with a fire hose.. 😂😂

It was an 8 gallon sip.. That’s what I had to pump out of it…

@@mlke4258 geez

91psi

Canuck here

I always say that the new stuff is the most problematic.. I can only assume it’s a result of the same personnel issues we are all experiencing.. People don’t want to work! If you can manage to find someone to show up, you can’t get them to do anything!! I agree with the industry being mostly unknown.. Tell your friends!! For me- I hate working on anything with wheels… Power Gen fits that bill well.. The things are literally everywhere…

@@mlke4258 There is always work in the industry that’s for sure.

Thank you for the comment Jerome! Great points!!

Nice! Semper Fi!! I was a generator guy in the Marines 20+ yrs ago.. God, that sounds terrible!! Anyways, That’s how I got into it.. The regulators are custom made for cat by a pretty reputable manufacturer of digital controllers and voltage regulation/paralleling components.. I don’t love the Molex style connectors but they’re hosting some current at times.. I think that’s why they opt for the bigger pinned connectors.. I’m always a fan of a good old fashioned terminal board strip.. That’s the way they used to do it!! Or a male spade connectors sticking right out of the potting material.. Then all you need to do is slide the female connector over it. You’re right though!! It’s almost always a shit connection or poor ground..

@@mlke4258 It's been over 40 years since I left the Corps, and I've seen my A-4 Skyhawks in museums. I feel very old. 😀 I saw a few of those regulators at work, and always thought that they looked pretty cheap. Never saw anything else that was half-potted. Cat is always trying to cut costs, but they may have gone too far with those Molex connectors. I hope that the engineer at Cat gets some note saying that the connector failed. Whenever failed parts came back to me, I had to figure out what wasn't working. A lot of them were working when they got to me, so it wasn't clear if there was really an issue or not. We sometimes ran the parts through hot and cold thermal cycles, which might cause problems to reappear. With potted parts, the potting can expand and contract a different amount than the circuit board and components, causing solder joints to crack and become intermittent. A hard potting can cause more problems than it fixes! Good luck with the repairs! Good troubleshooting skills are very valuable, but usually result of painful experiences. 😀

Great point on the potting material!! That makes complete sense!! Thank You!!

That poor dog!! She was being walked back home late one evening after a neighbor had watched her for us.. She got spooked by a loud truck or something and got out of her collar and took off… She almost immediately got hit by a van as she ran into the road.. She yelped and took off into the woods.. It was 10:30pm and it was pouring rain!!! Despite that we spent hours going around the block.. Never found her til 8Days later.. She was completely covered in mud and bugs.. She had massive lacerations in both of her front legs.. One of which already had maggots in it… She’s afraid of her own shadow, but she’s been through a lot for being as cute as she is…. She’s a tough little B!!! Lol.. Thank you for commenting!! 😊

Thank you!!

I can weld.

You can’t weld shit, lady…. Psh…

Assuming you have it adjusted to start, and come up to speed- The goal is to not eliminate the spikes and droops but to keep their time base as minimal as possible.. I use load banks and add/remove good sized block loads to achieve this.. Make very fine adjustments and ensure the results are consistent before additional adjustments are made..

Download From Woodward.. Setup a account, and they give you access to their software for various governing applications

I want a program for this DPG-2101-002, but I couldn't find it. Can you send the lin

@@mohamadshodap1620 www.woodward.com/en/support/software%20assets/calibration%20tool/2019/04/18/22/02/5418-2272-d

Thank you🙂🙂🙂🙂

@@mohamadshodap1620 👍🏻 No worries.. Good luck!