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@armoniimorance9820 23 сағат бұрын
Great fukkin. Video BRAVO MY G!
@GridCop 2 күн бұрын
I'll give this a try. If it works, you've got a new subscriber. Keep it up!
@KairuHakubi 4 күн бұрын
that might be the dumbest invention i've ever seen.. it only heats one small part of the pizza and then rotates? XD and does it even heat the bottom? it doesn't seem like it.
@JustinNelsonsProjects 2 күн бұрын
It heats the top as it rotates, approximately a slice size at a time. But if you hold your hand under it, hot air is blowing across the entire pizza, so it's sort of convection cooking and cooking using radiant heat on the portion that is directly below the top element. There is also a heating element underneath the rotating tray that in fact Cooks the bottom. If you look at the top of the unit, there is a three-way switch, you can cook top only, bottom only, or both. As demonstrated in the video, it actually does a pretty good job. I did buy it from a Goodwill store as a gag, thinking it was a joke of a product. But I find myself using it quite a lot now once I tried it... From your comment, it sounds like you didn't actually watch the video or at least didn't watch the whole thing...
@mashoodwo0mur16 8 күн бұрын
Hi, Thanks for your video. I just want to know how f we can add ceiling light to hyperhdr. If yes can you we a video please. Thanks
@JustinNelsonsProjects 4 күн бұрын
@@mashoodwo0mur16 that's actually a feature I've been experimenting with in my own living room. I have a white strip of LEDs on the wall behind my couch. They light up according to the overall brightness of the screen. So if suddenly there's a flash of lightning or an explosion on the screen, the whole room kind of lights up a little bit... I've been meaning to put a project together and make a video on that, it does involve a little more including an esp32 in order to control the extra 12 volt lights. But it is a pretty immersive experience... When I have some time maybe I will sit down and walk through it. It's not for the faint of heart, it does involve some soldering and using mosfet transistors etc but, I will try to make it as easy as possible...
@mashoodwo0mur16 4 күн бұрын
@@JustinNelsonsProjects Thanks for the update. Keep it up you are doing a freat job
@deepfriedfreddy 11 күн бұрын
Wow that was a quick response!
@deepfriedfreddy 11 күн бұрын
Thanks!
@aionlee4168 12 күн бұрын
Hi Justin thanks for putting this together it's a ton of help. This is a silly question I'm sure, but I know on the splitter there is one input for HDMI. If I didn't want to have any input, and launch KZbin installed on the TV, will it work?
@JustinNelsonsProjects 12 күн бұрын
@@aionlee4168 I cover that in the video, but no in fact there is no way to access the video data from inside the television itself. It has to come from an external video source, such as a Roku or any other streaming box with an HDMI output...
@aionlee4168 10 күн бұрын
@@JustinNelsonsProjects Thanks a bunch Justin, just ordered a fire stick to work around this!
@JustinNelsonsProjects 4 күн бұрын
@@aionlee4168 best of luck! As Long as you follow the instructions, you should have no problem whatsoever using it with a fire stick as your input source. Keep the community posted as to your progress, and if you have any more questions, feel to ask!
@fsnumber27 13 күн бұрын
No gasket on the housing?? I have one on mine
@JustinNelsonsProjects 11 күн бұрын
@@fsnumber27 are you talking about a paper gasket on the housing itself? In this particular type of setup that's unnecessary, the rubber gasket that goes around the thermostat creates all the seal that you need. I have seen people put one on anyway, or use RTV silicone sealant, but as long as you have the rubber gasket, no coolant should reach the gap between the housing and the cylinder head...
@dalemacdonald201 18 күн бұрын
Thank you very much for this video and your excellent tutorial. I have my setup running now, but the colours are a bit off. Red comes through a bit pink, blue is a bit green and green is a bit yellow. What do you think is going on? I've used the capture device you originally recommended and am using WS2812b LEDs, but I had to invert the LED controller settings to RBG to even get close. EDIT: For those of you who have the same problem I did, it's to do with the OS version on my Raspberry Pi 3b. I installed the latest OS, which has kernel v6.6. This kernel version inverts the colours that my capture device sends to the Pi. By installing the legacy version with kernel v6.1, the issue goes away. You can check the kernel version by typing "uname -a" in PuTTY.
@kushalsingh.6383 19 күн бұрын
Beyond everything, first we must appriciate him for delivering such high quality content at this age, and fact he is still delivering it, Thank you so much Justin for the Video, it Really Helps :)
@JustinNelsonsProjects 18 күн бұрын
@@kushalsingh.6383 but I do have to say, 49 might sound "old" to you, but my main demographic is between 25 and 44, with a good portion above that (45-54)... And many of the KZbin channels that I personally watch, are run by guys older than myself... See back in our day, you actually had to learn how to do electronic things on your own or from a book or a magazine 😎
@kushalsingh.6383 17 күн бұрын
@@JustinNelsonsProjects keep up the good work sir, i'm proud of you!! Hope you'll gain millions and billions of views on this channel
@acanbakir 21 күн бұрын
Greetings from Turkey. I tried doing it last year but I couldn't succeed. I'll try again by watching your video. I’ve watched a lot of videos on this topic, but I’ve never seen one as detailed and explanatory as this. Yours is the best so far. You’ve really put in a lot of effort. It’s a great video ❤
@jangobaby6812 22 күн бұрын
I'll give this a go before drain cleaner! 👍
@Kaffesump366 22 күн бұрын
Hey, I found an old raspberry pi 2 under my desk. Will it work for this project?
@JustinNelsonsProjects 18 күн бұрын
@@Kaffesump366 only if it is a Pi 2 Zero, W... I'm not 100% sure about the original Pi 2 board, it's one I never had hands on personally... I'm going to guess that if you run the 32-bit version of PiOS on that board, it ought to run just fine... Let us know if you do get that working because I don't know that to be 100% true yet, again, I've just never had my hands on specifically a Pi 2 original form-factor board. I'm pretty sure the original Pi (one ?) is not powerful enough... But the Pi 2, might be, since the Pi 2-Zero W was, just a smaller version of it, I believe... Also... Unless you have Ethernet running behind the TV (not uncommon for that to already be in place for other projects)... You would need a WiFi board. I'm not at my computer, otherwise I would check the specs and compare them to a known working board and let you know what I think the odds are. But if you can look at the specs and compare them to the 2 Zero W... If there are comparable, it should work just fine
@JustinNelsonsProjects 18 күн бұрын
Technically any low-powered Linux box would run this. Except of course for driving the actual LEDs, but most PC main boards won't have any kind of gpio. I said most, because I've seen some self-contained cash registers that run Linux, and they have gpio for things like opening the cash drawer and other miscellaneous things like that. We technically only need one output capable of running at up to 800 kilohertz... That's a discussion for another day, I do have a couple of old point of sale systems although it's kind of a waste of a big old touch screen, to just be hidden away silently driving LEDs...
@CODMods99 24 күн бұрын
Anyone able to get CEC to work? Thank you for the guiide.
@ethanr6448 25 күн бұрын
Dude, you have a sweet voice. Also that documentation is the best there is for Hyperion. Thanks!!
@usaearthling Ай бұрын
Thank you for that easy tutorial. Got it done, my dad thinks I'm a show off. 🤗
@JustinNelsonsProjects Ай бұрын
@@usaearthling happy to be of help! That's why I make these videos 😀
@brrrtbacheniraq873 Ай бұрын
That was hilarious AND informative!!
@JustinNelsonsProjects Ай бұрын
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback! 🙂
@rickymanonsen Ай бұрын
Is this the same for the xti6000? I have 2 with the lcd flashing on and off and will never power up. Thanks.
@pierpa_76pierpaolo Ай бұрын
I was thinking of getting the aluminum block and bimetal tube from Creality CR10 and adapting it to my Anycubic Kobra. This hobby only serves to make people spend sometimes unnecessarily.
@pierpa_76pierpaolo Ай бұрын
Is this modification to solve the non-printing? I have a first series Kobra and I am every day disassembling and reassembling. Any advice? Thank you very much.
@richboi2171 Ай бұрын
I don't think my gpio pin is active. I'm not getting anymore 3 led,s to light up. Went through the video several times. Any advice
@amananaher Ай бұрын
Thanks for all information
@JustinNelsonsProjects Ай бұрын
Thank you, for watching the video and for your comment. Feedback is always appreciated 👍
@ptalten-gz4sz Ай бұрын
EEEWWWW
@carlovani5548 Ай бұрын
I think it's safe to say we all have had bad powercords, but both wires? Oh wait. Steel wire. Can you check with a magnet? Anyway if that's the case, the piece of original cable still in use may break too :(
@JustinNelsonsProjects Ай бұрын
@@carlovani5548 well I know the actual wire is copper, you could see where I had soldered it. But I am curious as to what the failure is, and now I'm tempted to actually cut that plug end apart carefully, and see exactly what the failure point was. Although it could be anywhere in the cable, though there are no obvious kinks... I suppose I could plug it in and then run a no contact tester of the length of the cable... I'm just extremely curious how the plug, or the cord, actually failed on both rails ...
@JohnJones-oy3md Ай бұрын
Years ago had an impulse heat sealer that worked intermittently. Very frustrating. Eventually traced it to the power cord, which when bent or twisted the smallest amount about a foot from the sealer would interrupt the power. Cut off the cord past that point and resoldered it on. No issues since then. Still scratching my head about how heavy insulated wiring could fail like that with no visible damage.
@JustinNelsonsProjects Ай бұрын
After replying to the other response, I didn't actually occur to me to go through the cord and try bending it in different spots while plugged in and on, to see if it just kicked on. I am going to investigate the possibility that the problem lies due to a kink in the cord. The thing is I hardly ever use it. I've only had it maybe a year but I really only break it out once in awhile to heat shrink a couple of electrical connections for just no more than a minute's worth of use at a time. I'll figure it out, probably not worth making a video about when I figure it out LOL I'll just post a pinned comment when I do get around to figuring it out. I'm going to dig the cord out of the garbage, clearly label it as bad so I don't try to use it lol, and when I get some free time I'll investigate out of curiosity.
@cest7343 Ай бұрын
Re bimatal and break off: As a life long wrench operator i can both confirm and advise regarding Your issue: There are certain strategies to bolting on a tight fit exposed to high temperature swings as the heatblock is: 1. Tighten and undo only at operating temperature, and then only with firm but moderate torque (emphasis on experience and feeling) 2. There is an order of operations to be obeyed: the throat-upper heatbreak thread is to be only moderately tightened, the recent "crazy" variety with a hexagon collar is an obviously good choice. Then screw on loosely the heating block and the nozzle, adjust losely with fingers and let it heat to working temp. After a while tighten by holding the heatblock with a wrench and turning the nozzle by a socket. See it is tight but don't crush the threads. Undo in inverse sequence - never apply torque to the heatbreak it is indeed the weakest point
@JustinNelsonsProjects Ай бұрын
After a couple of years of using a 3D printer, I couldn't agree more. And as someone who does automotive and other mechanical work for a living, this lines right up with standard procedures. Doing things at temp always ends up with a better result. Thanks for your comment and thanks for viewing the video!
@JustinNelsonsProjects Ай бұрын
I just noticed... In the stock footage of a guy changing a tire on the side of the road, why is the hood up? Seems he has more issues than a flat tire LOL 😂
@eddimarzio3505 2 ай бұрын
Thank you for your help. I removed the motherboard from my xti1002 with no difficulties but I failed to take a picture before inverting the board and the 2 metal straps on the board supporting the speaker binding post were not captive and fell off. 1 remained on the positive terminal but not sure if the other was on the other positive terminal. Can you enlighten me please? Thanks Ed
@JustinNelsonsProjects Ай бұрын
Give me a day or two, I haven't opened one of these up in a while. I'll have to dig through footage or photos from when I originally published these videos, maybe I can point you in the right direction. But again, give me a day or two, it's the first of the month at this point and I have a lot going on... I recently acquired an XLS 1002, which is a different species but hopefully I can make that thing work again and another video will be forthcoming if that pans out. Thanks for watching, and thanks for the comment. If I can help in any way on the xti 1002, I will do my best. But again give me a couple days 😀
@JustinNelsonsProjects Ай бұрын
If I have time tomorrow, one of my xti 1002 amps has crapped out on me. It's like just a couple of screws, maybe I can take a picture of the inside of that so you can see how it should go back together... No promises, but if I find a little extra time, I've been wanting to open that one up anyway..
@OsamaBeenHarris 2 ай бұрын
This channel is going to blow up soon!
@JustinNelsonsProjects 2 ай бұрын
You guys are awesome, I really hope it does blow up, but honestly I do it mostly because I love this kind of stuff, and I love helping people out.
@bob-carnatu-sef 2 ай бұрын
Do you think this would work for a big 2 foot by 4 foot tile? As long as I have someone to hold it so it doesn't fall off, shouldn't be a problem right?
@JustinNelsonsProjects 2 ай бұрын
I think if you go very slowly, with a helper, it could work... But as I stated in the video, this particular saw isn't designed for professionals. As old as this video is, I have used the tile saw maybe six times in total. It's perfect for someone like me, who does maintenance which occasionally requires a little bit of tile work. Definitely not for a professional tile installer... 2 ft by 4 ft seems awful big, that's like a drop-ceiling sized tile. I would just be super careful and definitely wear safety squints!
@sammcr6475 2 ай бұрын
Have you worked on the Crown CDi1000? I have a unit that will not complete power on and does not have the set of through hole resistors and the C198 near power switch that you replace in your video. Really like your get right to it video style. Any advice? The only thing observed on my circuit board is a bulged capacitor top (C815) right near the back of the LCD display. This has a small inductor and other small SMPS components.
@JustinNelsonsProjects 2 ай бұрын
I have worked on a CDI 1000, but it's probably an older unit. I'm sure some of the components on the board are relabeled or even rearranged. It's been a while since I worked on a Crown amp, but I do have a XLS 1002 in my possession that puts out audio but only sometimes, and has display issues including both thermal lights lighting up even when it's cold LOL. So I am going to jump back into the crown amp repair situation, hopefully I can return some information that might help. But if you've got a CDI model that I don't have on hand, honestly without looking at it first hand, I don't know that I can help. But at least I can gleam from some of the newer and older amps made by Crown, what changes have been made over the years
@David-qs2xx 2 ай бұрын
Hey I’m having a problem with my 2015 Silverado because the android head unit uses a press and hold function to learn the button but the next and previous buttons only sends a quick signal you can’t hold and press it and because of that it don’t learn those two buttons can anyone help
@JustinNelsonsProjects 2 ай бұрын
I'm afraid on this question, you might need to seek help elsewhere, possibly the manufacturer of the Android head unit. My video is mostly about older vehicles talking to *somewhat* modern stereos, but not the Android powered ones... I have zero experience with Android head units, and I'm personally not a fan of touch screen interfaces in a car. I mean don't get me wrong, I love my Android LOL, I just don't think it belongs in the head unit. I believe the head unit should just be a (dumb) Bluetooth receiver, and the Android operating system (or iOS) on your easily replaceable/upgradeable phone... This is of course personal opinion, but my point being, I don't have any experience with that type of setup so I would be of little help...
@CantilEdge 2 ай бұрын
Do you know why my pi refuses to connect to browser IP? My pi zero ip is formatted in 10.x.x.xx and not the 192 format.
@JustinNelsonsProjects 2 ай бұрын
Is that IP address hard coded? In other words, was it manually typed in when you formatted the SD card? By default, it should be set to the same Wi-Fi router that you use for everything else, and it should be such a DHCP... At least ideally, that guarantees that it will be granted an address on the same network. Another option is to manually set a static IP upon format in the 192.XXX region. And just make sure that the gateway IP is correct... If you follow the instructions on my website, it should come up just fine unless you have more than one Wi-Fi router and you choose the wrong one...
@CantilEdge 2 ай бұрын
@@JustinNelsonsProjects No it was not hardcoded, I didn’t see an option for that in the raspberry pi imager. It is the IP that shows up when running ifconfig.
@samueldj293 2 ай бұрын
Hi, quick question. Is there anyway to use this, but capturing the videofeed from the TV instead of an external device? (Chromecast/roku/etc) Also, i’m not the brightest when i comes to how much LED-strip i need to buy, if i have a 98’ inch TV, so if you could help with that aswell, that would be very much appreciated! Thanks in advance
@JustinNelsonsProjects 2 ай бұрын
As I mention in the *main* video (this one's just some minor updates), there is currently no universal way to extract video information from within the television. There are people who claim to be able to hack very specific TV models' firmware and somehow get color information via USB, but I've never seen this actually work. And even the ones who claim to have done so, state that DRM-protected content (aka most everything you might stream eg Netflix etc) still can't be used. Just pick up a cheap Roku box.... seriously, if you can afford a 98" TV, a <$100 box can't be that huge a deal 😉 I calculate approximately 268 inches, or 22.3 feet around a 98" TV (depends on bezel etc). So you would need two 16' (5m) strips of LEDs... I would recommend powering the second strip separately, both with probably a 5-volt, 6-Amp supply, to avoid too much voltage drop around the screen...
@just_2swift 2 ай бұрын
96 V6 Camaro 3.8 has a bleeder?
@JustinNelsonsProjects 2 ай бұрын
If that is a question, I actually don't have an answer for you. I've never had a V6 Camaro... I had a 1984 Camaro with the 305 V8 many many years ago LOL. You should be able to tell just by looking though. Or, ask on different car forums if it's there but maybe a little more hidden. Annie case if it has a bleeder it will be somewhere at the highest physical point of the cooling system. I actually think that 3.8 is the older version before the "3800" series was introduced but I could be mistaken...
@JustinNelsonsProjects 2 ай бұрын
Just to follow up on my last comment, I did it on an older Buick regal that had the other version of the 3.8 engine, and it did not have that bleeder. But that's not to say the Camaro does not, I can't say with any certainty which engine specifically came in that car or it's orientation. Usually on a larger car you don't have a bleeder because the reservoir sits higher than everything else. The only reason for the bleeder is when they cram a pretty large engine in a rather small engine bay.
@fpwest1526 2 ай бұрын
So we noticed something odd about our Ambilight setup. When we first plug it in, and for the first 30 minutes or so, all the lights are working as expected. After about 30 minutes of running, only the right side seems to continue to work. The top, left, and bottom have all gone dark. Once I power down everything and reboot the pi, the color comes back on all sides, but again 30 minutes later only the right side is working. Any thoughts?
@JustinNelsonsProjects 2 ай бұрын
I think my first recommendation would be, make sure the corner braces are very securely attached. There is a lot of current flowing through those, and I suspect one of the connections is overheating and then basically no longer conducting current... When it does that again, follow the path starting at the input side of the LED strip, and whichever corner brace is where the lights stop working, give that one a very good look (and feel if it's getting warm)... Another idea that I actually ended up doing on one of my tvs, it's just to solder two wires from the positive and negative pads on each end of the corner just to ensure a very good connection. I will include that detail when I make an update video... I really hope this helps!
@Spheredalai 2 ай бұрын
im surprised you didnt mentioned mono, many many, many negative reviews i seen about these adapters whether wired or wireless is that people complained that they can only provide mono audio, not stereo
@JustinNelsonsProjects 2 ай бұрын
In all honesty I only owned that car for a brief period. It was a fixer-upper that I flipped and sold. I only bought the car cassette so I could listen to my phone through the stereo (as well as use the hands-free phone), given that the Taurus has such a weird shaped oval stereo, an aftermarket would be pretty difficult to make look correct. But after reading your comment, I had to dig out the car cassette, and just one look at the tape head in the cassette, it is in fact mono - and I never even noticed it LOL 🤣 Also keep in mind, the stock sound system wasn't exactly super high Fidelity lol...
@benfranks8820 2 ай бұрын
I have a crown xls drivecore 2502 all of a sudden wont power up. I have it disassembled everything looks normal no swollen caps ect. Also cant find any schematics on it. Can u help?
@JustinNelsonsProjects 2 ай бұрын
I wish I could help, but please read the pinned comment...
@bestlytech 2 ай бұрын
Hello, can you please make a code for esp32 please. I need to try your project sir ❤
@JustinNelsonsProjects 2 ай бұрын
In the future I plan to make a larger version and will likely use an esp32. This particular project was just to show how powerful the tiny little esp-01 can be
@cassandrawilliams5745 3 ай бұрын
thanks - sorry I did nott see your video sooner. I was just about to toss my MP10. I replaced the fan and a sensor, but I never finished updating my hotend. Once again thanks for sharing.
@2ez4A3Z 3 ай бұрын
Hi Justin, great video! I have a new RaspPi 3b+ and a 290 strip of WS2812B and attempted to connect it up to my own level shifter. I couldn't ever get this working so i just ordered your cable with the 1-way level shift. My question - is it safe to push 5v out of the Pi header pins to the LED strip, without any fuses or anything like that? Excited to try this project again with your cable!
@JustinNelsonsProjects 2 ай бұрын
I've been doing it this way on two different TVs for quite a while now. I find it's perfectly safe as long as you are using a highly regulated 5 volt power supply. Some people are uncomfortable with that, and in that case you could just cut the red wire on the header pin (disconnecting it from the pi) and use the dedicated Raspberry Pi power supply. I only did it that way to bring the whole project down to only using a single outlet, and it's one less wire coming from the back of the TV. Best of luck!
@SianaGearz 3 ай бұрын
I am running an old direct drive with a PTFE lined heatbreak, where PTFE butts directly into the nozzle. After a relatively short time trying to print ABS, the PTFE liner was browned at the bottom and needed to be replaced. I have replaced it a number of times. It's a little disconcerting. I would rather not breathe broken down PTFE. My most printed materials are PETG and HIPS, both do a lot better with less damage to PTFE than ABS, but it still gets damaged. I am not fond of ABS, but maybe next round, if i ever get around to build a printer with XY-stationary bed (CoreXY or dual rod pull Cartesian, not decided), also enclosed and air-filtered, maybe ABS again :D I am preparing stainless and titanium options to upgrade to, but i need to change the carriage, part cooling and probe mounts for that to work, because my throat is long, and alternative throats are shorter, and all these dimensions need to reaccount. Indeed i don't trust the quality of bimetal units. At least the machining quality of Kingroon titanium unit feels excellent. Probably a good thing because what do you even do if it's not well made :D Not the case with a stainless one i got before, the machining was bad. But simple solution, attached a toothpick into a rotary tool, put metal polishing compound on it, and drove it through for a while. Now it feels good and reflects light through the inside in perfect lines. I don't remember whether i pre bored it with a normal drill before to knock off the worst of the ridges, maybe i did to help along before polishing, but yeah it feels and looks reassuring now. Pro tip, install your hotend components with HY410 heatsink compound. It is fairly high temperature stable much more so than others, and when you disassemble, parts stop fighting you. I also tried brake copper grease anti-seize from a major brand before, but it actually emitted plumes of black smoke right away :D
@joseguevara184 3 ай бұрын
Good to know but I only use PETG which I have to print at 245 celsius and the Teflon inside the normal heatbreak does not last for more than 3 months so I have to replace when some printing fails, always a waste of material and time. I will try with the bimetal with a little drop of mineral oil as someone suggested in a youtube video. 3d printing still a problem with hotends, I remember when cars had the same problem with heating and radiators until one day someone invented the closed water circuits, now you don´t see cars vaporizing along the road, is very rare. Hope some day someone really create something that really last and you can print problems free. Maybe porcelain heatbreaks.... or whatever works. Meanwhile, keep suffering!
@JustinNelsonsProjects 3 ай бұрын
I'm pretty sure the mineral oil trick is actually a bad idea. I would definitely do a little more research before trying that... It's not the same as seasoning a cast iron pan to make it non-stick as other videos have tried to say... Ask for me personally, I've changed my tune since posting this video quite some time ago lol. I still don't care for the bi-metal, but I do use all metal heat breaks now. And when I'm done with a friend I tend to pull the filament out as it's cooling down, attempting to leave the nozzle and heat break empty and clean (ish)...
@w00master 3 ай бұрын
I wanna go with this, but I've seen no videos address the following: HDMI 2.1 (this is important for fully utilizing the TV's capabilities); AVR - a sizable number of folks don't directly route their HDMI outputs back to the TV - the go through an AVR for surround sound, etc. How does this all work with this setup? I've heard that once it gets routed to an AVR - all of this is lost. I'm hoping I'm wrong, but it would be AMAZING if someone would actually do a video how to do this with HDMI 2.1 and an AVR setup. Thanks
@JustinNelsonsProjects 3 ай бұрын
I can't say with 100% certainty, but as long as you split the signal with the recommended splitter, before the AVR, everything should work. EDIT: it would probably be better to use the *output* of the AVR that connects to the television, split that particular signal, and then use that for your Ambilights... I don't have a receiver to test the theory with, all I have currently is a soundbar... And I use a 4 in, 2 out, HDMI switch box to select different inputs, and I use the output of that to run the Ambilights. Down the road I'll be upgrading once I move to a bigger house...
@petethomson 3 ай бұрын
I bought my first Ambilight TV last year after wanting one for years. I had no idea it wasn't Philips making them 😕
@grindfi 3 ай бұрын
Leaving this comment here for people with built in android tv, you can use hyperion android grabber and send the screen data to the raspberry pi so you wont need a capture card and all this stuff, sadly the app is quite old so it may not work for everybody (chromecast with google tv also sadly) this also enables you to run hyperionng on your smarthome server (like home assistant as an add on) and send the light data to any combination of lights (i really like wled strips) so this is a really cool usecase! Now the reason im leaving this comment is because the app is old and i want to find somebody with more android app coding knowledge than me to implement the possible fix ive found for newer android versions, if you know somebody that could help please leave a comment
@robertcsims 3 ай бұрын
Have the XTI 1002 and does not power on. Did the capacitor replacement. No change. Tested removed capacitor and it was good. Tested resistors and the show resistance. Tested all the transistors, 1 tests bad . The one right next to the 2 relays. Do not know if that could be the problem. Any advice? How do I know what transistor to use in the replacement. Looking for the schematics and parts is tough to locate. Thanks for the videos.
@fpwest1526 3 ай бұрын
Well it took a reload of the pi, or three. I finally got it working. We love it! I just have to get the Greens and Magenta's to swap places, but that's just calibration. I can work on that.
@JustinNelsonsProjects 3 ай бұрын
In the capture settings in hyper HDR, there is a setting for RGB order. In other words what order are the colors in. And it's not actually sent as red green blue, it's usually gbr instead. Play around with that and you'll get your colors right. I'm happy to hear you're enjoying the project, I'm sure it was totally worth the effort even with reinstalling multiple times, believe me I have been there done that LOL. 🤣 I've probably installed the Raspberry Pi OS at least 25 times in the making of this video and subsequent trial and error to get the website up-to-date etc. but in the end, the end result is always worth it once you get all the settings tweaked
@JustinNelsonsProjects 3 ай бұрын
Just to reply to my own reply, I'm getting ready to watch the latest Star Trek Discovery episode and with all the lights off, the back lighting just makes my 65 inch TV feel like the entire wall is part of the TV...
@jamiehawman66 3 ай бұрын
I dont have a barrell or the plug adapter but I do have a 5v 60amp transformer will that be too overkill or shall I just buy a barrel and 5v 10amp adapter I have 244 led... ws2812b with rasberry pi 3b Will I blow the full lot if I use the transformer?
@jamiehawman66 3 ай бұрын
Hmm or could I go to wled first and apply the 5v 60a power supply too 10000ma ..... or 8000milliamp HELP ha my capture card comes in morning tvs off the wall ready
@jamiehawman66 3 ай бұрын
😊
@JustinNelsonsProjects 3 ай бұрын
If by "transformer" you mean an actual transformer (not a switch-mode power supply) then I would NOT use that. The voltage, unregulated, would be all over the place and will fry the Pi and the LED strip. If it's a regulated supply, and you measure 5.0 or 5.1 volts consistently, then it should be fine. Changing the "max milliamp" setting does not affect the power supply... it just changes what the software does, limiting (using math) how much current it expects each LED to draw; it is by no means exact. Also... my project does NOT use WLED, so you're going a different route, so I can't really give you much more advise ...
@jamiehawman66 3 ай бұрын
It's a power supply big silver block thing 5v 60amps
@JustinNelsonsProjects 3 ай бұрын
@@jamiehawman66 okay so it's basically a switch mode power supply in an aluminum brick. Those are generally pretty steady with the voltage. I believe they are specifically designed for driving LEDs so that should work.
@vintagetubeamplifiers 3 ай бұрын
I just got 2 CDi 1000's, a XTi1000 and a XTi 4000 to repair with the same problem, thanks!