@@LeeTanczos : I soaked it for about a day. Water with room temparature. It stayed soft after drying out which is why I then laced it. This makes it better but not perfect at all. So if the leather is very soft try lacing and if that doesn't work it may not be salvageable. Perhaps there are ways to get the leather harder again (perhaps with chemicals that counteract softening caused by various oils), but I haven't thought much nor searched much for anything like this that others may have tried.

@@LeeTanczos With some searching I found hearing up the leather in almost boiling water then drying out, can harden the leather but there is a chance of it getting too brittle. Perhaps add leather conditioner after drying it out would work. I may try this. The main reason I used water was to get the shape more symmetrical as the one side was stretched more than the other side.

@@dyeless Right, a wide beam is good for turns and to be able to select where to ride. The IQ-X and M99-dynamo have wide beams but, they are uneven which takes that advantage away. I should get the B&M Briq in a few days, I will test that in NL and soon will take it to Ukraine along with the old Saferide 60 (neutral white version, about 5000K) and another light to do more comparisons on bad roads/in difficult terrain.

@@WHS_reviews Good to know. I might be wrong here but my understanding is that uneven light is by design. There is focus area where rider should look and focus and assist, less bright area for your peripheral vision. I think I saw that in one of the son edelux II review mentioned.

@@klodreck Yes, they are generally junk. Someone mentioned in the comments 2 that might be better, FSA platinum and another, that might work well, but I had enough, switched to square taper and it works, no more issues and this bike is in the rain a lot. Downside is that you need a new crank set. I bought a cheap one from Sunrace which works fine... I figured 2x swapping bottom brackets and already I'm already at more than the cost of a cheap but durable square taper bottom bracket + cheap but fine Sunrace crankset, with very low additional cost should the bracket need to be replaced at some point.

@@adambog5871 Good point, so that gear is right in the region where you would want a smaller gear step, because it is an often used sub-range of the total range and thus there you would want the possibility to select a better fitting gear. With the C1.12, even though all gear steps are the same, these steps are not optimal as I calculated (contrary to the P1.18 which isclose to optimal), and you only use ones in a specific range a lot, namely those for riding on flat terrain with moderate wind, the rest are for the less common situations such as accelerating, riding up hills, riding fast with a tail wind. This is similar to why I suggested to Sturmey Archer many years ago that their 5 speed hubs should have a different gearing. It used to be 1 -> small step -> 2 -> big step -> 3 -> big step -> 4 -> small step -> 5, whereas I suggested: 1 -> big step -> 2 -> small step -> 3 -> small step -> 4 -> big step -> 5, which would give 3 gears close together in the most used range and still you have a hill/traffic light gear + tail wind gear. Instead of doing that, they later went with even steps... How do you like the shifting with the C1.12? Smooth enough?

@@adambog5871 Addition: I've ridden about 2600km with the P1.18 so far, more to come this summer, on all the varied terrain (from flat up to quite steep hills) and various types of roads in Ukraine and I like it more than any other system I used. I like the nuvinci/enviolo too but its range would be too limited for in UA I think. Rohloff is a 'no' for me and derailleurs are 'it works but has plenty of annoyances'. Switching gears while climbing a hill is also good/fast, contrary to with a derailleur.

@@WHS_reviews Shifting with the C1.12 was a disappointment. Not precisely at all. My old Nexus 8 was a level higher than C1.12 with shifting.

@@adambog5871 : That is interesting. I didn't have this feeling at all with the bike with C1.12 on which I did a test ride.

@@WHS_reviews Pinion grip shift has too large play. I wish it was a noticeable indexing.

First I need a good reason to buy one! ;-)

Yes, I bought another one for my bicycle in Ukraine. I weighed it a few days ago when I returned to NL (I will take it back in a week or 2 to UA) and it is 517 g for 66cm wide, which is very close to the Jones h-bar butted (515g at 66 cm wide). The jones h-bar is 71 cm but can be cut down, so for those who want a very wide bar that would be better. I watched a video from Jones about the evolution of the h-bar and this shape that the m-wave has is more like the first version h-bar, which has a more straight first part and that is better if you want to mount armrests on it as I do. There is also from the UK from planetx, the 'Geoff' bar, though a commenter on planetx' website says it weighs 750g, that is a lot!

So you are self aware and write about your own comment! Cool, but of no interest to anyone, so move along.

No it is not broken. It is the 2nd one I have used. Both are the same in bad/uneven beamshape, not extremely bright, the saferide 60 was better. Rating: 3/10 at most.

@@WHS_reviews I ride with a crew of guys that all use them and none of them look like this. This can be reproduced with improper wiring though.

For me it is only for hearing protection these days, I got used to sleeping with noise :) I will have a look at silicone ones. Is there any specific type/brand that you like?

@@WHS_reviewsnot really, I buy on Amazon the top seller. These things changed my life, I'm a Very light sleeper;-)

Aha, interesting. I don't think I saved the cranks since I went to square taper (and no issues with that), but those could be an option then for others with bikes with this type of BB. There used to be a SKF version which was supposed to be really good but I didn't see the right size for sale any more when I needed to replace mine.

What I heard was a 40 pole dynamo, not 40 spokes, as that is relevant for the person who told me so I don't think he would make such a mistake, but I will ask him about it.

@@WHS_reviews OK, I see now that their SON 28 has already 26 poles, quite a lot. I wonder why they would make that number even higher. I rather have a dynamo that can deliver 10 Watt or more, in stead the standard measly 3 Watt.

@@PeterKooimanNL : It's not a lot because the wheel rotates slowly, much more slowly than a sidewall dynamo. This causes the flickering that you see when people walk with their bikes. I had it confirmed, 40 poles and one of the reasons to do this is better/smoother low speed power generation. This would be useful going very slowly up steep hills. I agree about more power, 10W would be nice though it also means if not needing there are more issues in regulating output, preventing high voltage spikes and (leg) power required for that.

You are the fool Ivan, Putler is the one responsible.

@@WHS_reviews minis agreement broken by NATO. They are just using the Ukrainians to fight there battle for them... Where are you by the way?

For others: notice, about this 'kid--presentable': 1. he spouts ruble collector talking points, a.k.a lies and such people are from wherever they are, Ivans, Russian propagandists, 2. he disregards what I mention in the video: you cannot discuss anything with psychopaths like putler there the claim to be useful by being neutral is bogus, 3. by not helping people who need help and letting the bully putler do his thing, you show only 1 thing: that you are anti-social. The guy I criticised is Michael Leahy, chairman of the irish freedom party. That dude is a 30IQ guy.

@@WHS_reviews you can't argue .. you have been indoctrinated and you don't know it.. it's very sad

Why should anyone do anything for anyone else Ivan? That's right, be a little selfish b*tch.

@@WHS_reviews oh good one , what are you going to do next go on a quest for fire.. you are very angry aren't you.. no capacity for logical thought.. extreme narcissism and selfishness resides within you.

Go home little Ivan, your mother called.

Of course. I have a website on riding with and testing leather saddles, and have videos on youtube about repairing too stretched and too deformed leather saddles etc. I am not reviewing any saddles in one day. I am also not reviewing any bike lights in one day, nor dynamo's, nor gear hubs, nor pumps, etc.

LOL. had a good laugh about that! I am now in Lubny, made a trip of 53 km from Grebinka, after 13km in Kiev to thevtrain station, and yes I have too much stuff with me. But what helps is that I rented storage from Sunbox/sunpark in Kiev so there I don't have everything with me and I didn't take everything with me on this trip (goal: Poltava then Dikanka then Kremenchuk). I am not a bikepacker but will now try to reduce weight...

Yes, I didn't appreciate the springs of the B67 and Flyer until riding on bad roads but in the Netherlands there are almost no bad roads :) I will get back to this with experiences of 2 friends, one who briefly tried the Suntour NCX and other is trying it now a bit longer. Their views are very similar to mine.

Long ago all our walls were made of asbestos, just because something works in the short term doesn't mean it's the best option long term

@@flavortownexperience7433 The list of things that do work proven well with long history is so long. So many things our forefathers constructed are time tested and still with us, maybe sometimes in a modern form. A proper constructed frame from a high quality steel will live longer than yourself, as an example. I myself use a high quality, solid seat post with layback, it flexes on harsher bumps. I combined it with a seat that has silicon bumpers underneath, which filters the vibration some. After long testing it is the combination that worked best for me. That way I am not losing the "butt-feel" for road and ride, but I have some dampening.

@krollpeter This "butt-feel" is what a friend of mine who rode my bike with the Suntour NCX mentioned, he felt that he lost the feeling with the road and with that, control.

@@WHS_reviews same same. Except for people with certain needs such as medical issues, or riding on harsh farm roads s every day, I feel it is just selling more expensive bling bling. BTW the worst I had was actually not a Suntour suspension post, it was a Zoom spring post. I needed to lift it up out of the sag with every pedal step, before the force reached the pedal, wasting my energy for little suspension effect. Best wishes for your country and people! Justice will come to you!

@@krollpeter : I am not from Ukraine (but from the Netherlands) but I like the country, nature, food, and the people in for example humour. I feel more at home here than in NL...

Yes, a bit more fragile than steel but should last a long time and I'm not too worried about getting it welded if something breaks. I will use it likely only on long trips in Ukraine.

VSF Fahrradmanufaktur is an option for pinion+steel frame in Europe, with P1.18 in about the same price class: TX-1200 (no suspension front fork)

I don't intend to stop anyone doing anything, I give information, so what you are really saying is 'look at a cast iron train bell'. Cast iron seems weird, is it a sort of run-on-tyre type bell that makes a sound while it is engaged (contacting the tyre)? Those are not legal in Germany for example.

@@WHS_reviews ik, I was making a joke lol

yes, it is close but not the same, and esp. when writing down then there should be feedback that says to you 'something is wrong', but often that doesn't happen, and that shows you how the brain works internally... I may return to this topic with more examples and the exact reason it happens, though I like to not give everything ready to 'digest' because I want people to think about this for themselves. Something else is language errors with swapped letters or even swapped word parts, this has happened throughout the ages. You can hear certain groups in the USA say aks instead of ask for example. Once you start to realise how the brain works, a lot suddenly becomes clear.

@@WHS_reviews I see your point. "would of" is spoken directly by many, it's a kind of vernacular. Also, it's probably another example of the language being mangled, and then that becoming the new normal.

Fact is, Litelock is an anti-social company, anyone who is normal would not do business with them. I don't care what thieves carry or don't carry. I won't buy them because I will not give litelock any business but also I don't need them and from the tests done by others I deduced exactly what these locks will withstand so no need to test. This is all clear if you just watched the video properly!

This and the other video on these locks show what time you can expect such a lock to last, which one of the testers was unwilling to specify for a bogus reason but all together I deduced how long these locks really last. This showed the nonsense with litelock, with one lock it is ok, with the other absolute fantasy. This started with the first lock, which they 'showed' in a video was angle grinder resistant. Complete BS. They made a complaint about the Litelock 17s theft video so you can't watch it in the UK (use a VPN), they placed fake comments with the videos on that first lock they made and so on. Nobody should do business with these unethical wackos.

@WHS_reviews So what is the best bike lock in your opinion then. I've got hiplok d1000 and the litelok x3 plus many kryptonite locks and personal i use the d1000 the most as just give me peace of mind. Bro I'm not trying to start anything with you just curious how you think

On this bike I only use 1 dynamo light at a time, and no front battery powered light. The different beam patterns that you see in the video are from the near field (lower speed, up ca. 13 km/h) and far field beams of the C1 (higher speed). I have the Roxim D6 normally connected with a Büchel Wing taillamp on this bike, but for the tests with the C1 that gets connected instead and I used a Exposure battery powered taillamp with it as the Igaro taillamp wasn't ready yet (I was thinking of modifying a taillamp for the C1 but didn't get round to it).

@@WHS_reviews Thanks for sharing your knowledge. The C1 appears rather impressive. I've been running a Klite road setup (750 lumens version) which is dippable via the always-on switch when a battery is being charged via the usb charger. I really like the ability to dip. Especially on country lanes here in the UK which are very bendy, having tight corners, bringing road users into light-clashing situations. Does the C1 have a dippable option? Or is the beam not going to be causing problems to oncoming vehicles and so no need to dip?

@@noreasonwhynot4548 : Both beams are cutoff beams, so both don't blind oncoming traffic. Igaro calls the beams low and high beam to differentiate them but the better names are near and far field beams. I haven't tried Kerry's lights since I think 2011 or so, a friend loaned me one, but round beams need 3x to 5x the amount of light to give an equivalent lighting up of the road compared to a good cutoff beam so the C1 will be better for on-road. The real issue is price. I wrote some considerations about this on my website. Further I would prefer automatic USB output power switching as the current system takes a while and you can't simply switch from one preference to another (say: night 1: shorter trip, I want most light, night 2: longer trip, need USB power for the phone, will accept less light). See: swhs.home.xs4all.nl/fiets/tests/verlichting/koplampen/Igaro_c1/index_en.html

@@WHS_reviews O my word, I've discovered buried treasure! Thank you so much for all this work and testing. I've been reading your website and also some of your comments on reddit. The C1 is a very, very strong contender. I'll continue with my homework. Price is an issue but for safety when fast night riding, I'm okay to bite the bullet. I'll look more into the USB charging side of things. Yes, it's important for me too to keep a good charge going on longer trips. I'm not keen on UK campsites except for major rest and clean-up stops. Our culture here is quite hostile to cyclists.

@@noreasonwhynot4548 : I am not on reddit so that is someone else... The UK looked nice to me when I was there, colourful buildings, a bit hilly varied nature, downside: very narrow and meandering country lanes which are an issue in both safety and drivers getting annoyed if cyclists ride abreast (someone from Exposure told me this is likely the biggest issue with hostility towards cyclists, and that makes sense). Camping is never cool unless it is warm/hot and dry :)

I will see if someone here knows. Hamburg era was around 1772 here, which already means the roads would be about 250 years old!

It was long ago, but several years ago this friend of a relative quit there over the same reason of the school not being interested in improving and thus in progress which there should be as education wasn't perfect at all. It is now worse since the time I applied, it is generally going backwards in many schools such as that teachers should not expell students. This already started to happen by the time I applied but later heard about it from a teacher at another school. The reason I showed this school was in preparation for showing some comments with a recent video that I watched by Matt Walsh, who generally gives good criticism and sees the counterarguments that invalidate certain claims but quite often he misses things too. I will show that in a video, but regarding the video about education the comments from teachers, former teachers are of interest. I had seen a lot of comments before about education in the US which is clearly problematic to say the least, but NL and Western Europe often, unfortunately follows the USA in stupidity so it is important for NL too to look at that.

Yes to all of that. Kindernay may continue, from reports it has been taken over, I hope so because more competition is good and the hydraulic shifters look good though I've not seen anyone mention shift force with the Kindernay. As to shift force, if that could be reduced it would also be beneficial to electronic shifting for non e-bikes to give more shifts per battery charge as a motor will have to provide that power. With Shimano's electronic shifting with the Alfine the battery last a long time from what I read, but shift force with Alfine trigger shifters is low. There is the Gebla Rohbox which allows road and flat bar trigger shifters but the shift force is high, when I tried it out it felt too heavy going to me. Price for that is about 300 euro for DIY for flat bar trigger shifter or about 450 euro letting a dealer do it. Then there is an electronic shifter prototype by Falkenjagd (who make very expensive stainless steel and titanium bikes), which uses the dynamo hub to charge a small battery but price was hinted at 700 euros. Ouch!

hmm, I have just had a look on B&M's website and from their beam shots this looks to have a fairly good beam without artefacts, amazing, all their other lights have serious issues, including the IQ-XL (300 euros). I may test it along with the Trelock LS835T. I checked a distributor and indeed there is no date yet known when they will be available...

@@WHS_reviews Yes, that's why it got my attention the beam on the face of it looks very good on that new Briq. So I'll just wait until suppliers have them in stock to try one out, They a re already listed on sites but no stock yet.

Not sure what your problem is. I modify because it is better, that is all.

Yes, that's why I didn't even consider buying such a bike new, and 2nd hand they are too expensive too. There are a few german makers such as Stevens and VSF that make more reasonably priced pinion bikes, but new they are still 4500 euro or so. The people selling these 7000 euro bikes are living in a fantasy world, pretending this is anything but absurd. Note that this brand 'Santos' isn't selling custom bikes with frames made in the EU, the frames are made in I think it is Taiwan, so I don't see any justification for that price at all.

Thank you. There is not much to be added I suppose, some models disappear, some appear, but the principles remain the same: Steel bells are generally the best in rain, ding dong bells have the nicest sound, tring bells are good always working bells etc. I bought a tring bell with aluminium dome and clapper activated from below the handlebar at Decathlon recently, first tring bell I've see with alunium dome. It will be interesting to see how well that works in the rain, and how well it works ergonomically...

Is dus blijkbaar normaal hoewel er mogelijk latere versies zijn die iets stiller zijn, mogelijk dat dat de naven zijn waarbij versnelling 1-4 bijna geluidloos zijn? Ik heb iets gelezen in een commentaar op youtube dat latere naven (de mijne us van 2009) een 'silencer' hebben maar wat dat inhoudt? Heb er verder niets over kunnen vinden. Uit welk jaar is uw naaf? Is het geluid goed te horen in versn. 1-4?

I had one wired but needed to repair it (cable was cut), the other one is wireless with cadence measurement (that is the main reason to buy it for me, 2nd hand, related to checking what the exact range of cadence is that I find comfortable, for my analysis on optimal number of gears), so I was testing to see if the repair worked well and also to see whether wireless transmission worked well as my experiences with Sigmas were bad and the I saw what difference auto on-off vs press to start with wireless makes for example. Side by side testing is very useful... I took the wireless one with me last trip and put it on the bike with pinion gear box.

I didn't install a new fork, and as far as I know this is the front fork that was original to the bike. Why do you ask?

@@WHS_reviews Just curious, 2024 model seems to have rigid forks with eyelets for various accessories.

@@PerSkeles : Yes, that is right, but that already changed in 2022. For me the suspension fork is perfect, for rough roads, but on the other hand some people state such a bike (that is to be used for long tours) shouldn't have a suspension fork as it adds weight and/or because it's something that can break. The guy whose webpage I discussed in another video, in which he described his experiences with an older version of the P18 and the pinion gearbox, such ascreaking and other things, also felt this. I don't agree, it would be nice to have the choice and have 2 models.

@@PerSkeles : This is the one I have, from 2021, listed with suspension fork: www.stevensbikes.de/2021/en/de/city-trekking/trekking-premium/p18/

@@WHS_reviews 4000€, not bad price for bike with 18 speed Pinion. Now those cost 4600€. Still way cheaper than boutique brands like Tout Terrain etc.

I don't have one myself, so I need to analyse the videos. Btw I tried to get my hands on an Exposure Revo myself long ago too but wasn't for sale any more. I am not sure I would really use the Igaro C1 so not considering buying one at the moment. Riding with a light would give me much better ability to judge strengths and weaknesses (see also my video about issues with ride videos and beamshot, these do not show what you see in reality, and see my website on this topic too: swhs.home.xs4all.nl/fiets/tests/verlichting_analyse/index_en.html ), so I will ask whether they have a loaner to test for a few weeks, but these videos are a good start.

These were from a bike shop in Amsterdam, sks fenders made for idworx, champagne, fits perfectly in colour with a titanium frame.

Yes, warm white light is the most relaxing for riding, and to encounter as oncoming traffic to such lights. Although I felt that ca. 4000K was better in the sense that warm white of 3500K or less gives an effect of everything looking a bit too yellow. Maybe one needs to get used to it (as it was used everywhere with incandescent lighting in cars and bicycles), and for that I will take a pocket lamp with 519A 3000K on my next trip in several weeks to Poland/Ukraine and use it a lot on long walks. I have 18650 lamps with Nichia 519A in many temperatures + a few with modified 519As (sliced off part of the dome on the LED, this lowers the colour temperature and lowers DUV, so it becomes slightly pink which has interesting plus points). I will try to make beamshots or a comparison video soon.