Yes! Check out my newer video here of the Color Flames animation: kzbin.info/www/bejne/q566kJp3aKuHqLs

Thanks! There are definitely some really nice glass tile options I saw that I wanted to use, but I decided to test it out on these cheaper porcelain tiles initially to learn the technique. I imagine this could look really cool as a larger backsplash.

Unfortunately, the does not work in all coding environments. Are you using an online code editor? I have noticed that some online editors will correctly interpret the as a carriage return, but others will not. I used the Visual Studio Code editor installed on my PC for the Python program shown in the video. If you want to test the functionality using an online Python editor, you could use the official Python online shell ( www.python.org/shell/ ). I'm not sure which other online editors may work.

Yeah, it is simple to make and it's definitely a cool light with all the 3D effects! I still need to play around with it to figure out how I can display custom pixel art. WLED has some sort of tool to do that.

Thanks!

Thanks for the info. I had tried to find some examples online of where this form feed escape character might have been used, but it was hard to find much. This gives more insight into the topic 👍

For the most part, yes, it has very limited use in everyday programming. I can give you an example though where it just so happened to be useful. Recently, I had a voltage sensor that communicated through the COM port to Python, and I was printing values to the output terminal. I was printing through the loop pretty fast and didn't want it to print a new line of text every time a new value came. So that was a situation where, by using at the end of the print statement, I could overwrite the previous line of text and the loop would keep replacing it with a new voltage value in the terminal.

@@Electriangle didn’t really think of it like that, I really appreciate how you explained it ty so much it’s such an eye opener 🙏🏻

Correct, is the newline escape sequence character. I made a separate video for that one as well: kzbin.info/www/bejne/m5K3ZIyFhqp-nKM

Most likely this is because the "RainbowCycle_Main.ino" file and "RainbowCycle_Animation.ino" are not in the same folder. Both of these files must be placed within the same folder together and named "RainbowCycle_Main" before compiling the code. Check out the steps in the README file on the GitHub page to make sure the files are configured correctly: github.com/Electriangle/RainbowCycle_Main

I understand what you are trying to do. Unfortunately, I don't know how to do that and according to some others on this Steam Community post link below, it may not be possible to do that: steamcommunity.com/discussions/forum/1/1489987634011799557/ The only suggestion I can think of is if you can try to pick a different folder to save your documents and sync with OneDrive. In other words, leave the Steam games in the official "Documents" folder, then save all your documents in a different location and tell OneDrive to synchronize that new location instead.

Fair enough. To tell you the truth, that paint was from the dump 😂. It was pretty old and watered down. And the wood I built the frame out of came from a bed frame that was thrown away. I tend to use scrap materials for my LED projects to keep them cheap. Also, I kind of started this project with the mindset that it would be a proof of concept or a prototype build to validate the idea since I hadn't seen this done before. I might revisit this project in the future to make a better version with different tiles. It can certainly look cleaner with good materials and more patience!

The 555 timer sinks and sources current through the output pin, so I don't think a gate discharge resistor would be necessary here unless you are using a different operation mode with the 555 timer or trying to reduce the turn-off time due to a higher switching frequency. I wouldn't hurt to add one though. BTW, for this circuit, I tried to make it as simple as possible using minimal components. There are some things I would consider adding if I were to remake this circuit for better reliability and robustness. For example, I picked common 1kohm resistors instead of actually calculating and testing what the optimal values should be. And there should technically be a bypass capacitor from VCC to GND near the IC. But it's been working well so far, so I'm fine with the cheaper circuit for my application🙂

Is this circuit is flicker free? Especially with low brightness and while during transition between brightest to dimmest /dimmedt to brightest? If not so? How to make it perfect? (Frequency of 555 oscillator/ (adding filter Capacitor at any output point(???)))

@@jijeshkorothpoyil2697 Yes, it has been working flicker free for my LED application during transitions and even in low brightness. I am using a 12V SMD 5050 Led Strip for the load. If you select good quality components and good LEDs, it should work fine in your case as well. However, if you do have issues with flickering, you should be able to solve that by using a lower capacitor value for C1 to increase the frequency of the 555 timer. Filter capacitors in certain locations may be a second option to investigate if increasing the frequency doesn't fix it.

Do you mean for the WLED firmware? The WLED releases can be found here: github.com/Aircoookie/WLED/releases At the time of the video, they were at 0.14.0. I would recommend downloading the 0.14.4 stable release for now until the next 0.15.0 version gets formally released.

I'm not sure how it would be made as an emoji face using a 1D strip... Are you working with a 2D LED matrix panel? Or wrapping the LEDs in a circle? I imagine this animation could work good for a circle ring of LEDs as a loading symbol or a spinning wheel effect.

Thanks. I’ve been using WLED for a while now in all my projects. Is there a better alternative to the WLED firmware?

Awesome, I'm glad to hear that!

I haven't come across that issue myself. But I did find on Reddit for r/WLED, BytesOfPi mentioned there is a limit of 32 characters. He also created a workaround for that if you are willing to go in and tweak the code through PlatformIO. Here's the post: www.reddit.com/r/WLED/comments/12fzgnw/presets_with_scrolling_text/

@@Electriangle i have the limitation of characters (i work with ESP8266) thanks for sharing link, i have to investigate more on timer for my scrolling texte, thanks!

Which code editor are you using? I noticed it doesn't seem to work properly in a lot of online editors. A lot of websites will ignore or incorrectly translate the escape sequence characters. I like to use the Visual Studio Code editor (that's the one in the video). I also tested it in the official online Python 3 Terminal window ( www.python.org/shell/ ) and it worked there.

I currently use a 5V 10A power supply from Amazon. My setup has around 460 + 220 pixels (split in the two directions). So technically, if I wanted to run them at full brightness, it would need a 41 Amp supply. I had tested initially with a 3 Amp supply, and I did notice it had limited brightness and color range. The 10 Amp one has shown good results for me. Depending on the animations you use, if you can stay below 450 pixels in a single run, you should be ok without needing power injection. Beyond that, it can start to show a reddish color instead of white. Here's the link to the product I bought: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CMM2BBR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

@@Electriangle awesome man thanks!

I appreciate it! I have created that sketch for you now so you can use it with an input button as you described. Check out the new folder on Github. There are a few ways to implement what you described in the code, I tried to go for the simplest approach I could think of. There are comments in the code if you're interested in following along for that. Link to Github: github.com/Electriangle/Color_Flames_Main Let me know if you need clarification or would like assistance with making adjustments to it. Enjoy the project!

​@@ElectriangleThank you so much it worked like a charm! I was just wondering if theres a default code to change colors of the animations you have in the channel with a button, Thank you so much anyway

@@hama_sart Sure, I made a new repository template now similar to the previous code but this time using the switch-case method. So you can simply add in any of the different animations and function calls into the sketch, and it will switch between them with the button press. Link to GitHub: github.com/Electriangle/FastLED_With_Button_Control Keep in mind, if an animation uses the delay() Arduino function, that may give you an issue with the button because you will have to hold the button for longer until the delay() function is complete. I noticed this when testing the code out. I've been avoiding the use of the delay() function now in my newer sketches, but some of my older animations still have that limitation. Maybe someday I'll get a little time to go back and fix them.

To be honest, that did make me feel nervous as well when I was doing it. You're right, one slip could have pulled it in badly. I think my angle was wrong there with that metal on the bench grinder... I appreciate your concern by pointing that out. That is important to be safe with those kinds of tools. Safety errors can have really bad consequences.

Yes, you can speed up the text scrolling speed by changing the sliding bars shown under the effects tab. It is the slider called "Effect speed". (See video at 1:44).

Yes, a 12VDC motor will work with this circuit. I would recommend increasing the frequency (use a smaller capacitor value) so that it is out of the audible range. Someone else had commented that they heard an audible noise from the motor when using this at the 1kHz frequency.

Temu. You can also search "glow in the dark white pebbles" online and probably find similar from other sellers as well.

I updated the schematic picture on Github to show the switch now. I put the switch between the +12V power supply and the whole circuit. Yeah, I can understand not wanting to put a switch on the main power line in your case if you are running 10A. So there are actually two ways I would suggest: 1. If you want to use a switch, you can put it so that it cuts off power to only the 555 timer circuit. Then, connect the LEDs (+) directly to the power source and the (-) to the drain of the MOSFET. The LEDs won't turn on if the 555 timer IC has no power to drive the MOSFET. 2. Someone else commented about how they had put an RC low pass filter on the output of the 555 timer (on the gate of the MOSFET) to turn it completely off when the potentiometer is completely left. That will work by slowing down the turn-on time enough that the gate threshold voltage is not reached. The disadvantage is that you can't get max brightness anymore. It goes from about 0% - 90% instead of 10% to 99% brightness. I tested it with a series 100ohm resistor and a parallel 0.1uF cap on the gate, and that worked for me.

@@Electriangle Thank you for your response. I tried a lot but could not make the low pass filter work, so I ended up adding switch between 12v & 4/8 pins. works fine. I made 4 of these & using them to control my RGB strip(brightness + RGB). However, no matter what value cap I choose, at certain color level or brightness level, it flickers! I assume it's probably because of the 4 frequencies interacting.. I tried adding some caps in parallel but it's not smoothing the signal enough.. I know it's not related to the video but please let me know if you can think of any possible solutions. Thanks again.

​@@kuro758 Yes, I agree, it probably has something to do with the frequencies interacting. Specifically, I think the signals are getting out of sync as you adjust to a certain brightness/color. For example, as one of the signal states goes high, another goes low. If the frequency is too low, that might be perceived as flickering to the eye. I think if you can get the frequency high enough, it should be able to hide that issue. What value of capacitance are you using to set the frequency? Also, is the potentiometer a 10Kohm? I can check what frequency you're running at if I plug them in the simulator. I've started to realize from the comments that I should have shown the configuration for a higher frequency than 1kHz since it seems to not be very ideal for several of the applications I've heard.

@@Electriangle Yess! You could do that? The pots are 22k & capacitance 22 nF! It's set up like this 12V → R,G,B → R,G,B pwm control → Main pwm control → Ground. Thanks a lot!

@@kuro758 I checked in the simulation with a 22k pot and 22 nF cap, and you're operating at around 2.5kHz. But actually, I didn't realize before that you were using two of these controller circuits in series for brightness + RGB. Now that you mentioned your setup, it might not be as simple as increasing the frequency... Can I ask / suggest, do you need to include that Main PWM controller circuit for controlling brightness? Since you already have the three brightness controllers, wouldn't they work independently without the Main one to control the brightness for each color + the whole strip?

Yes! This is a demo of my latest LED project. I’m working on preparing the tutorial video for how it was made.

I don’t think I understand your question exactly, but you could potentially use this 555 timer circuit or a similar one as a PWM controller for a servo motor or a dc motor. Depending on the application, you should adjust the operating frequency by changing the capacitor value. A MOSFET is needed to provide a higher current drive to the output.

At least it’s beautiful 😁. I don’t expect most people to have my exact setup, but hopefully it can be an inspiring concept for other LED project ideas. Also, you wouldn’t be able to see it from this video, but I actually have the equivalent of three desk spaces in my room. So work space is not a problem for me 😉. At some point I’ll post my full desk setup to show each of my DIY projects together.

That's his table and he can do whatever he wants with it. Also not all PC monitors come with VESA brackets.

If it was pointless, why would he have it on his desk?

Pointless? the only pointless thing here is your comment, and what workspace would you have under the monitor?

To be honest, I had wondered before making it if it was too basic to even need a video on. But then I realized that things can only become basic info after you have learned it first. So I am glad to hear the feedback that it was helpful!

:o I figured it out. You can do a RC low pass filter on the base of the output Mosfet to get it to turn on only after the "average" voltage is about 0.6Volt (or whatver your mosfet base voltage is) by using a capacitor and resistor in series. Then you got that satisfying effect of it only turning on when you turn the potentiometer at least a little bit. So turning it to far left is "Off".

@@MattFixesStuff Nice! That's cool, glad you enjoy the circuit :). That's right, a low pass filter on the output would slow down that MOSFET turn-on time enough to keep the output off. For my circuit, I settled on just using a push-button switch to turn it on and off, but that's a good upgrade idea you had there. So, for your first comment, it technically could work without the diodes, but the disadvantage is that your brightness / output power control range (at least based on this circuit design) would be limited to 60% - 99%. Adding the diodes in gives that extra range so that it can be adjusted from 10% - 99%. (I had tried to remove the diodes when building this to simplify the circuit, but then realized this limitation after analyzing it).

@@MattFixesStuff hey this sounds really cool, could you please explain how to calculate the values for R & C? I tried reading about it but I'm lost. I'm using IRFZ44N same as the video.

@@kuro758 I just put a 50k potentiometer and 10uF capacitor if I remember correctly. then I played with the potentiometer until I hit the sweet spot. (then replacing the potentiometer with a normal resistor). My mosfet is a BS270.

@@MattFixesStuff thank you!