Yeah, I'm considering building a liftarm sorter one day, it's on my TO-DO list 🙂

Cool looking forward to it

Also by the way I just subscribed to you

Thanks!

Thanks! 🙂

Thanks, indeed a great idea/design by KINBricks!

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks! 🙂

Thanks! 🙂

Thank you so much! 🙂

Thank you Tomas, glad to hear you like it! I was a bit surprised myself that the ball splitter works so well 🙂

Yes indeed, it took a while to build this, lots of trial & error, but there's also the satisfaction in the end when it's finally finished and up and running 🙂

Yep, I know, but I like it that way, imho music simply adds something to these kind of videos, just a personal preference 🙂

Thanks! Instructions are made by Planet GBC and are available on Rebrickable (just search for "Mitsuami" and you'll find it 🙂).

Thanks! I had no difficulties once I figured out how to approach setting the timing for this one, but I agree it's not the easiest one (one tooth off can make the difference!). Will try to explain what I did (long story...) 🙂 First of all, make sure your 6 turntables can move/rotate smoothly without too much torque/friction. Many LEGO turntables are too tight and the 6 of them meshed together cause quite some resistance. If this happens the 24t gear won't have enough strength to handle all 6 turntables all together and will start skipping gears. The timing of the whole thing will be messed up because of this. Secondly, I did the (timing) setup in 3 main steps: 1. The 6 turntables => meshed together, so once all 6 are connected, they should operate as one sub-assembly and should not be able to change anymore. This is a bit of trial and error to know which exact teeth to mesh together. Start with attaching the 1st turntable (lowest one) and then work your way up. If needed, do a test after attaching each new turntable (easier to go one by one instead of all 6 at once). As mentioned by Berthil in his instructions, turntables 1/3/5 must be aligned as well as 2/4/6. Once all are connected, manually rotate them to check if they are perfectly aligned. 2. Position/latitude of the cups => this will be defined by the position of the huge piston and the 24t gear attached to the 1st turntable. Without the 24t gear being connected (temporarily slight it inwards over the 10L axle), I used the motor to move the piston to its max, then manually rotate the turntables. The first turntable should be in such position that the 1st cup can receive a ball coming from the steppers. See Berthil's instructions for the correct position/angle of the 1st cup (the other 5 cups are connected and will be automatically correct). If all is okay, slight back the 24t gear to its original position on the 10L axle. 3. Timing between the steppers and the rest of the module => should be the easiest one! If you built Berthil's updated version, you can simply use the built-in differential to set the timing of the steppers. In case you built the older version w/o differential (as I did), you can simply use one of the 16t gears at the bottom of the module. Just disconnect one of them temporarily and manually set the correct position of the steppers (bit of trial and error as well). Well, I think that's all I can say about it 🙂 Don't say this is the only or even the easiest way, but it worked out for me 🙂Hope it helps!

This will help for sure. I was just looking at it a while ago and noticed that there is quite a bit of resistance with the big gear rack. I need to look into that, i will also check out the turntables. Thanks for the help.

Thanks! 🙂

Thank you! 🙂

@@LEGO_GBC_NL I hope to see it soon IRL!

Thank you! 🙂

Amazing work ...

Thanks!

Thank you! 🙂

You're welcome.😁

It's a very clever design by Dunes/BrickEngineering. The link treads are guided through Lego part 78442 (Technic, Gear Rack 6 x 6 Curved). Element ID 78442 has a very narrow groove and it's perfect for the link treads to move through. They can move freely, but at the same time they are firmly held up by 78442. Have a look at some pics of part 78442 and/or have a look at the original video/building instructions posted by the designer (link in the video description above).

That is so cool! 😍

Thanks!

Thanks! I simply rebuilt them, changed some colors and merged the 2 models with each other. All credits to you as the original designer! Hope to see more GBC modules from your end in the near future, the flipswitch & stamper both run very smoothly. Love the movements, nice to watch and all that without a huge part count. Thanks for sharing! 🙂

Thanks for the MODs on these 2 modules and for adding the Akiyuki frame!

Hello, don't know if you can buy this somewhere as a complete set. All Lego bricks can be purchased on Bricklink and the pdf building instructions and parts list can be downloaded for free on Rebrickable (user: 9vsystem / Name: GBC To and Fro by S.L froden / MOC-82509). Hope this helps!

Hello, don't know if you can buy this somewhere as a complete set. All Lego bricks can be purchased on Bricklink and the pdf building instructions and parts list can be downloaded for free on Rebrickable (user: Berthil / Name: Push Ups GBC / MOC-134402). Hope this helps!

Good question! 🙂 Initially, when I rebuilt Akiyuki's version of the mangle rack mechanism, I also used just one M-motor and all worked perfectly fine. However, to turn it into a complete GBC module (actual balls entering\leaving the sliding hoppers/trays), I made quite some changes and this resulted in a significant increase of weight. Especially the 7 hoppers/trays contain much more pieces compared to Akiyuki's original design. Due to this, the black thingy that moves the hoppers/trays, together with a few other elements, had to be reinforced as well, increasing the piece count and weight of the whole thing even more. Well, to shorten the story a bit, at one point the single M-motor wasn't able anymore to do the job properly, so I tried 2 M-motors... then 2 L-motors... 1 XL-motor... eventually ending up with 2 XL-motors. Only the setup with 2 XL-motors resulted in the somewhat smooth movements shown in the video and only the 2 XL-motors combined could move around all 7 hoopers/trays with ease and with an acceptable volume level. Also, when testing different setups, I found out it's not only the increased power of the XL-motors that did the trick in the end, but also the fact they're placed opposite to each other certainly seemed to help. So I would say they're kinda necessary to get everything up and running in a smooth manner and if you're planning to rebuild this design, I wouldn't advice to use less than these 2 PF XL-motors, unless you're going to make a considerable amount of changes. Just my honest opinion based on my own experience gathered during the design/building process, of course you're free to experiment and try out other setups to see what works for you, but I can tell you my abandoned early setups were horrible to look at and listen to! 🙂

Thank you for this very long answer. I do understand all the reasons why you did it like these now. I am willing to build it anyway and so I need 2 more big motors. It might happen, that I will write more comments here just to have an idea how it works best. But it might take a few weeks or even month. Time is always what I need more 😁 Thank you again

@@thebigmg You're welcome! Will always try to help as much as I can 🙂

Thanks! 🙂

I'm working on other Lego projects at the moment...

Thanks!

Merci ! Ta version fonctionne mieux je pense 🙂C'était difficile à construire à cause du friction... Merci bcp à toi pour partager ce désign incroyable! 👍

@@LEGO_GBC_NL non ma version a des loupés aussi je te rassure, c'est très difficile des modules de ce genre a faire tourner a la perfection, sûrement des choses encore a améliorer.

Hi Hi, don't think step-by-step pdf instructions exist, but you can download the 3D file made by C-Brick for free. If you go to C-Brick's KZbin channel, you can find the download link to the 3D model in the video description (video title: LEGO Axle Sorter AS L40A Akiyuki replica). I simply used this file directly in Stud.io in order to build my version of the axle sorter.

Thanks! All credits to Jerome Christen of course for his amazing design! You're right! Didn't even notice this when building\testing ecording, but I asked the Lego balls and they feel fine 🙂I guess after running the module for a longer period of time, the axle and/or wedge belt wheels might run into some pressure/stress issues though. Think it can be easily fixed by adjusting the timing between the big yellow wheel and the main part of the module (so that balls reach the wedge belt wheels with pin connectors more efficiently). Could also be a matter of adjusting the height of the little platform with tiles and panels. This was certainly not the part of the module that gave me the biggest headaches... the friction issues were horrible at some points... most important tool to use when building this module is a straight axle checker! 🙂 I used the one Berthil put on Rebrickable for several 9L/10L/16L axles.

Sorry to hear you couldn't get this one to run properly. I agree it's not always easy to get Sawyer's modules set up correctly, especially the "Closing Forks" module, which I built about 6 months ago, was difficult to get right in terms of timing. Will certainly build some more of his modules in the near future (still quite a few on my to-do-list), because I love the complexity of them as you said. Lots of gears and smart techniques... and the modules are mostly quite compact 🙂

Hi, are you referring to the building instructions for Rimo Yaona's 20th GBC module? 🙂

Yes, it has already been launched

@@ringl719 Yeah, need to see when to build that one, so many nice GBC modules still on my to-do-list... 🙂

Thx!

...and I totally recommend it, awesome design again by Sawyer, works really well ! Lots of gears and counterweights used, which I like 🙂

Thanks, indeed it's a monstrous piece of machinery, superb engineering by Akiyuki ! 🙂

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thanks Tomáš! The ball splitter is a design by Jason Allemann (JK Brickworks) and basically it simply uses a bionicle tooth, a 1x6 tile and gravity. Jason explains and shows how to build it in one of his 2020 marble run videos (link in the description). Indeed it works superb! Tried 2 other ball splitters, but they couldn't handle 2 balls that follow one another so rapidly as in this module.

Thanks a lot for your nice comment!

Thanks!

Thanks!

Thank you!

Yep, had all the parts in stock, just swapped the 4 colors, don't have a lot of parts in lime, orange and medium blue, so I went with whatever I had available 🙂 Indeed an awesome build, like all modules by Rimo ! Very reliable and looks great ! The internals of the carts/chariots is really designed in a clever way !

Thanks, glad you liked it! 🙂

hehe 🙂 Indeed, the Rebellion does an excellent job in recycling curved gear racks!

🙂