I did that. First loco, straight forward dcc but after trying dcc sound, I won’t go back. They are more expensive but, for me, well worth the extra money. I’m building a club 009 layout and that is full dcc sound locos too.

They come preprogrammed on the dcc chip and already assigned to a function. You just press a function key and it then makes the sound.

This was a very old loco which I didn’t own for long. I owned the loco a couple of years ago but recently came across this video. It was a noisy motor and, while it pulled one person, it wasn’t capable of anything more. Here you see the loco before it was sold- repainted and modified to aid running.

I have converted my edrig to coal from the djb kit last year. It’s a really good runner. Paul Bailey said he might be doing the last batch of edrig kits soon so if you want one, I’d get in touch! The cost of parts were negligible. It’s the time that’s the hidden “cost”. If you have the skills, go for it!

@@DansModellingUniverse I brought one it’s coming tomorrow 👍

You have two options for filling the boiler, really. First option is to fill it from the side tanks using the hand pump - this takes a while and you'll get a good workout! Second option is to remove the safety valve and fill the boiler directly before replacing the safety valve ready for steaming. Hope this helps ☺

i go to a model railway club and asked a lot of advice before getting a loco from roundhouse. One of them was an engineer and they said it was still hard for them so unless your skill level is very high i would recommend prebuilt

It is gauge adjustable between 32mm and 45mm.

@@DansModellingUniverse wow that’s awesome I’ve never heard of an engine with an adjustable gauge before also one more question how long can your loco run before needing to stop for coal and water and how much does she hold?

Graham Powell they are very good engines and I always recommend the locos to anyone who asks. Polly engineering are a pleasure to deal with too. I sadly no longer have the engine. I sold it approximately 4 years ago. Having a young family and running the engine regularly just weren’t compatible! I now focus on my garden Railway as I can run it when I get time.

I've heard double acting pumps are better in order to avoid vibration plus you get twice the flowrate!

Eliot Reader just tap water. I live in a soft water area in North Yorkshire so I’ve never felt the need to.

I use RO water, (reverse osmosis) from my local garden center which sell garden pond fish. RO water is filtered and the impurities are only 6parts per million, whereas tap water is much more. They fill up a 25L caddy tank for me for a few pounds. Distilled water is very expensive and it would be cheaper to buy a dehumidifier and use the water collected in that. Do not use anything with the phrase Ionised because the zinc in the brass will be attacked. Some use filtered rain water but I've tried that and found it to be a faff to maintain and abandoned that idea. Hope this helps.

McBenMan 1 you may need to adjust the diameter of the boiler barrel but in theory yes a coal fired boiler could fit to a Jenny.

@@DansModellingUniverse thank you for your advice. where did you purchase the boiler?

McBenMan 1 I didn’t purchase it. I built it several years ago with the help of an experienced engineer friend. The plans and manual is from “steam trains in your garden” book by Brian Wilson.

Codlington Light Railway what tools did u use?

Ieuanman I got the anthracite from a local coal merchant. I explained what I was looking for and they sold me this. It burns really well.

Matt Seymour i have a 5” gauge simplex. Its abit easier because its bigger (the bigger the fire box, the easier to get a fire going) but ill start the way i do it. Use char coal soaked in white spirit. As you light it get your electric blower going. Wait untill you get some pressure starting to build then put abit of coal on. Not alot, let the first shovel or so catch, then add some more. Go easy as its easy to put the fire out by smothering it. When your on a bit a pressure put your steam blower on and remove the fan. This uses some steam but is much more efficient. Keep the blower on but turn it down as the pressure builds. Then your away, keep your coal level with the bottom of the fire hole door. Hope this helps abit. As i said its easier on mine but hope this helps slightly. What engine you got?

Thanks for the tips have used them and works well. I have a 3.5 inch Juliet

@@harpinbrad thanks for the advice. Would it be ideal to start with housecoal then go to anthracite once it's caught?

Matt Seymour i use bbq charcoal with white spirit poured over then go on to welsh steam coal. And i have a simplex but i have been looking at a juliette there a beautiful little loco! 😍

@@harpinbrad yeah Juliet's are good locos and mine steams well. I have a 4f now but waiting for boiler to be built for it If I was to go from Charcoal and parafin to housecoal then Welsh steam would that work better to get it to catch?

Matt Seymour I

Matt Seymour FK10

Matt Seymour had been in excellent

What does fk10 mean? What coal do you use ?

Little and often, especially with Welsh steam coal

o gauge (32mm)

AJ Reeves , and Maidstone engineering

If your up north, check blackgates engineering out

if your blower is the same as the one in this video , take the bottom part off and check inside as when you use it the soot from the fire and smoke slowly build up layers and can slow down the blade and make a weaker fire and not raise pressure as quickly as before , if that is not the problem ,have well soaked wood or charcoal and have a thick layer to start with and get the heat in the boiler and make steam and slowly add coal and then when u got 25/30 psi use the loco steam blower and then it should be fine , but if the blower is mucked up it wont draw the fire as good

It's a 'Roundhouse' Fowler. Normally they are gas fired but this one is coal fired.

Yes it does. It has 5 from memory.

What steam coal is it ?