Wish I had read the comments before I tried this…my driveshaft is now a ruined, twisted mess, and the head is still attached.

So, this is 'A TERRIBLE' design. I am facing the same issue. There is no way that I can see that you can pop a screwdriver or allen/hex key in to lock the rotation so you can gain the torque to remove the head. So, following this guys advice - I locked the rotation using vice grips and started forcing the head to unwind (CCW).... and all I can feel is the shaft drive rod rotating inside while I torque on the head. I feel like it is going to just 'snap' and render the component useless. Based on your experience is this what you 'felt' too? Do I just press on?

Thank you for all this work. You helped me a lot with the camera work and having you in the frame

Nice work I use the Jack as back up as always support the car on the axle stand, also slide some old wheels underneath as if anything fails your not going to be crushed just a bit of damage to the car

Thanks. It took me awhile to find this video. I have a model just like this one in the series. My cutting head is worn out. This information should make the head change easier.

If someone doesn't want to spend few hunder bucks on adjustable arms and has a welder, then you can make your own, i made myself adjustable arms using mazda 6 (02-08) rear arms, just have to cut and weld, one side of mazda arm has same diameter bushing soo its pretty eazy if u have a welder, i have some pics if someone intersted of that

Damn already outdated

Good information ~👍

You don't have to remove the cutting head shaft at all. There's a small hole in the black color below the cutting head you entered a screwdriver into that and hold the color with the screwdriver and turn the cutting head separately. That way you do not destroy your driveshaft with vise grips

You didn’t show at all how to put the screwdriver in the notch on the tab to unlock the tab to take off the spool head off. You didn’t show that at all!!!😮

Appreciate the video. Did you find this method better than the tubing/funnel combo? Seems like it would be, more control than just gravity fed tubing/funnel style.

Thanks. I thought this was the way and your video gave me the confidence to twist harder!

I have this exact same model, I followed your directions exactly, but my head is so ridiculously stuck on I just can't get it to break.. I even had a second person holding the vise grips while I spun the head... Any tips if it's stuck that tight?

I have one of these POS 4-stroke string trimmers from Troybilt. It is a string trimmer from hell. If I hadn't put $200 into it and bought a new head for it because the other one was a dud right out of the box, I would have stuck the GD thing down into a garbage can and had it hauled away. Every time I fire it up I have to determine that the crankcase has oil in it because it will sit there, no matter what position, and leak all the oil out. It will also leak out all the fuel. I would personally like to smack the CEO of Troybilt in the face and tell him and the CEO of Lowes what I think of them with a few unspeakable adjectives. I never have figured out how to lube the gearbox just north of the head. It overheats, and it should not do that. And I see nobody wants to answer that question. Pisson Troybilt. I have a friend with an expensive tiller from Troybilt and he can't even find a seal for the engine on that piece of junk. He told me he would like to strangle the CEO of Troybilt. I have a friend with a lightweight 2-stroke trimmer made in Japan. I have used it and that's what I want...something that will work and not give me a headache every time I have to fool with it.

This method will ruin your flexible drive shaft guaranteed

Thanks! Helped me fix mine tonight, much appreciated.

For everyone looking for this solution... This gentleman's video is the exact method described directly from Troy-Bilt. Mine had absolutely no hole to put in a screwdriver or similar to intelligently lock the shaft. Troy-Bilt actually do instruct to use vice grips and follow the method described in this video. It really does require an extreme level force to get it undone. Looking at the bottom of the head (the part you hit against the ground to feed the line) it unscrews counter-clockwise. I ended up using a gap between my fence palings to hold the vice grips while I turned the head. It was ridiculously tight, but once I managed to get the thread 'cracked', the head spun off with ease. Whilst I am never regarded as a violent person, I have to admit if I got the chance to be in the same room as the person at Troy-Bilt that approved this bullshit design... Let me just say only one of us would walk out without a permanent limp. What a fucking moron!

Ummm..you need to be more detailed in your conversion

Excellent camera work.

Nice video man! Just had a quick general question. Whenever the car is lowered (I.e. with coil overs) do I need to change out the lower and upper rear control arms? Or just the lower control arms? Thanks in advance. Ugga Dugga 🤟

Actually dont use vice grips on the shaft for this. I have this model trimmer and its easy to ruin the shaft with this method. reason being the shaft is not solid. it has a core wrapped with steel wires. if your are not careful it will unwrap the steel wires making it useless. Instead, at the base of the shaft where the head meets it, there is a small hole on one side. if you spin the head around a notch will line up with that hole. Just stick something in there (i used an awl but a small flat head is probably best. While holding it in place simple turn the head counter clockwise. easy peasy.

I think mine was a little more stuck than yours. I used Vise-Grips on the shaft and clamped the vise grips to the table, then used rags to twist on the line spool. Your video helped.

Umm...Q: How does one person hold the vise grips and unscrew the head? A: Ya don't, but you skipped over that. You did put some daylight on that the head unscrews but that's the easy part. Accomplishing is another, especially to a well used unit.

i with they just SOLD the TOP Plastic by the STEEL WASHER - that is all i need Good Video BTW looks like RH Thead - NORNAL STUFF lots of Replacement HEADS are the OPPOSITE LH Thread - REVERSE THREAD

Use the Jack stands to support the car and use the jack as a back up not the other way round. Good video though not many threads on the rear tie bars 👍

Nice vid. You just needed to jam a 1/4 piece of rubber on the inner back of the bracket as a spacer...no need to buy the strap kit