You can tell the locomotive is a later version by the fact that it has machined brass flywheels. My first locomotive - the GP30 - did not have flywheels. Athearn produced the first locomotives with flywheels were cast using "pot metal" in (i think) 1973. I'm not sure when they switched to machined brass flywheels.

@@rwissbaum9849 I think it was 1975 or '76 Athearn started using brass flywheels as well as plastic removable side frames on the power trucks the earlier models had metal side frames which was riveted to the trucks though i think the metal side frames were better.

Thanks so much. "Informative" and "helpful" are *exactly* what I'm shooting for!

@@rwissbaum9849 Much appreciated and thank you very much for answering my comment.

The problem with the Atlas Snap Switches is that they do not come close to modeling the ties correctly, so they need a lot of modification to look more realistic. Atlas Custom Line turnouts are much better, but since these do not include a built-in switch machine, I'm guessing you have Snap Switches. *You* *cannot* *replace* *a* *Snap* *Switch* *with* *a* *Custom* *Line* *turnout* (they are not dimensionally equivalent). I've not done any videos on installing switch machines, although I have seen several. With regard to converting Atlas Snap Switches, here is what I would do: (1) Remove the surface mount switch machine; (2) cut off the tie ends which hold the cast-in screw mounts; (3) replace those tie ends with short lengths of styrene (you'll have to measure the Atlas ties to get the correct replacement dimensions, but scale 6" x 8" is probably close, or use 0.060" x 0.100"); (4) if there is not already a hole in the center of the throw rod, drill a #70 hole - this will be where the switch machine throw rod connects to the turnout; (5) install new header blocks using strip styrene on the side of the turnout where you'll mount the switch stand (these should be 6" x 10" or 6" x 12", but you could use the same tie material and it will still look quite nice); (6) drill a 1/4" hole through the roadbed and track support (e.g. table top) directly underneath the center of the throw rod; and finally, (7) mount a switch machine underneath the track support. This could be a Tortoise, or a Bluepoint, or any switch machine you like. It would be *very* difficult to reuse the Snap Switch machine. People have tried to mount these vertically underneath the track support, but when the machine is deenergized, the machine will always return to the lower position. You'd need to mount the machine upside down to the bottom of the track support so the solenoid is nearly level, then devise some sort of linkage between the machine and the throw rod. Alternately, you might be able to mount the machine a few inches away and conceal it beneath a structure, or a pile of ties; but you would still need a linkage between the machine and the throw bar. If you decide to try this, I recommend 0.025" piano wire for the linkage. Once all this is done, you can ballast the turnout. (This will conceal all those modified and replaced ties.) If you do not require remote control, you might consider connecting a manual ground throw (e.g. Caboose Industries) to the throw bar. These are convenient and inexpensive, but they are not very realistic (although they look *much* better than the Snap Switch machines!). Modelers who use these like the "hands on" aspect of manual turnout control. Good luck, and please let me know how you do!

@@rwissbaum9849 thank you so very much for taking the time to write such a highly detailed reply. :-)

@@Loco-motix My pleasure - it's why I have this channel!

Some months ago, I converted an old Athearn Blue Box SW-7 to DCC - installed the decoder and a Keep Alive. This involved repainting and renumbering as well. The completion of this project is documented in my video "Missing Handrails? No Problem!" In my opinion, our society has trended towards discard and replace and away from repair and improve, and I think this is a shame - there is a lot of satisfaction in taking a poor model and turning it into a stunning model. Thanks for watching - and thanks for the comment!

Thanks!

THANKS!

Glad you enjoyed it. A Coleman cooler is a real luxury: I used to chill beer in the toilet tank! Just flush every 10 or 15 minutes to keep the cool water flowing...

Good luck with your kits!

The electrical box was cast into the part. After I painted the wall aluminum and added the black wash, I just painted the meter using vintage white and when the paint was dry, I painted gloss varnish over the white to make it look like glass. Easy!

We all know the end of that aphorism...and I want to say that, despite all the hoops I had to jump through on this build, I loved the kit - and I love the final result. Rusty Rail has created a unique structure with a lot of great possibilities - and at a *very* affordable price! I would recommend this kit to any craftsman-level modeler who is tired of the same old wood kits.

You can see why, when I saw this on Jason Jensen's video, I just *had* to buy this kit!

Thanks!

You're welcome! Thanks for watching.

Thanks!

We all hate the sound of our own voice! This is because we normally "hear" ourselves mostly through bone conduction, so hearing a recording of our own voice sounds *really* odd. Making a video of still shots is still (no pun intended!) of value - see Greg Cassidy's Workshop. Which red primer did you use?

@@rwissbaum9849 While waiting for the Rustoleum Self-etching Automotive primer to arrive, I used their "rusty metal" primer. It goes on smooth and fine details still show through. It ends up a nice rich oxide red color (boxcar red).

@@whiteknightcat Thanks!

Comments like this one make my day - it's great to know that I have helped other modelers along their journey. THAT'S why I make these videos.

Thanks!

I have a McKean undecorated box car kit in my inventory, waiting for a day when I need a short project. I also have four Kadee undecorated PS-1 box car kits - if they have a much detail as the RTR cars, building them will be a challenge. You mentioned braking some parts on your Tichy box car build; do you have a pair of tweezer style sprue cutters? They make a *huge* difference on delicate parts! (Also, you can buy entire brake sets from Tichy - $3.50 per set (plus shipping). I think you mentioned you model the early part of the 20th century - Tichy has straight K brake sets as well as split K brake sets. Good luck!)

Thanks for subscribing! Kudos to you for painting all those wheelsets. That is a tedious - but rewarding - task. Did you use an airbrush, or did you try the method I showed in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qoq4qZ-MrZ2BmZY (time stamp 3:18)

If you buy 'em by the 100, they're a buck apiece, *plus* you get two #2-56 screws per brake set! A-Line sells metal stirrups and they're quite nice. Also check out the cast brass stirrups from Owl Mountain Models. They're a little pricey, but they are beautiful. You can see them in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/b6G4ZIWmac93d7M

I mentioned K4 in one of my videos - I love 'em. Microscale needs to take a page out of K4's book: Microscale makes you order $25 minimum before they even ship - and then you still have to pay shipping. Full disclosure: if you read the other comments, you'll find that this is *not* a combine, but an RPO. Oh well, it still looks nice on my layout!

I have about a dozen Red Caboose kits in my inventory. Sadly, the kits are no longer produced - Intermountain bought Red Caboose some years ago, and Intermountain has told me that their manufacturer actually charges them *more* for a kit than they do for a RTR model! Silver Streak and McKean are also no longer in production. The modeler today has fewer and fewer options when it comes to high quality kits. You can still get onesies and twosies on eBay and at swap meets, but good luck finding, say, ten identical kits.

Thanks!

You're welcome - thanks for watching.

Great idea - that would make a *huge* improvement, especially since my dump truck has to spend a lot of time reversing as it loads and unloads ore. I'll look for these.

I gotta say, if I had it to do over again, I would take some 1200 grit sandpaper and wet sand the hood, roof and fenders. I think this would improve the model.

I'm pretty sure I did *not* suggest using my ( *or* your) wife's toothbrush! Not only might this lead to the sleeping arrangements you mentioned, but it would certainly jeopardize any future railroad expansion permits!

Thanks! I'm glad I'm not the only person who thought the original stairs just wouldn't do!

Thanks!

You are absolutely correct - making these working lights would not have added a lot of work and would have added to the visual impact. However, the exterior lights I prefer are the "gooseneck" lamps by Evan Designs, and they cost about $6 each. (Perhaps someday I'll figure out how to make my own gooseneck lamps for less money.) At some point, you have to ask yourself, "have I put enough lipstick on this pig?"

Thanks!

For the most part, I used either my #18 blade (the large chisel) or my #17 blade (the small chisel). Most of the joints came apart with just a little persuasion. I did split one or two pieces (like the dock support, and also one side of the building front) but these can usually be filled or otherwise repaired. Just take it slow. If there are pieces that refuse to come apart, don't force them - just resign yourself to painting the assembly. Good luck!

Forgot to mention: at about 2:30 in the part 1 video, you'll I have a bandaid on the left index finger - this is covering a cut on my finger caused by a knife slip. *Be* *careful* when cutting these buildings apart!

@@rwissbaum9849 Yup, done that too.

Thanks!

Thanks for the complement. If my videos can inspire you to attempt a scratchbuild, then I have succeeded. My goal is to demonstrate that scratchbuilding is not that difficult if you approach the project with a plan and using the right materials and a few fairly basic tools. Best of luck!

I've watched a bunch of videos by two masters: Jason Jensen and the Boomer. One thing I've learned from them is the importance of (a) using washes, and (b) dry brushing. These are tools everyone needs in their arsenal. Cheers.

Thanks so much for the kind words. I make these videos to - hopefully - show others how they can achieve similar results. I'm gratified that you find these helpful.

Thanks for the compliments, Greg. I have a small moving box *full* of complete or partially complete structures that I have consigned to the "don't bother" heap; and I suspect many will remain there forever. For some reason, this building always made me feel a little guilty - I guess that's what made me pull it out of the box. I can't emphasize enough that these "abandoned" models are a great opportunity to try new things: I never would've thought to try Miskit for paint masking, and might not have had the courage to try it on an expensive kit. I buy all my decal paper from MicroMark. MicroMark tends to be a little pricey, but I've always been happy with their decal paper. One caution: It *does* matter what lacquer you use to seal the decal with! I tried Tamiya, Vallejo, and Dullcote; I tried one coat, two coats, and three coats. Both Tamiya and Vallejo allowed the ink to smear, even with three coats. A single coat of Dullcote allowed the ink to smear; but two coats seems to do the job just fine. A third coat starts to make the image cloudy. Good luck!

Awesome, Dick, thanks for the info on the decals. A little guilt can go a long way. 😄