@@lukasstorie2947 yea most likely fuel system issue. Choke, carb, tank possibly, etc..

Yes, clogged fuel pickup in tank, or pulling air through bad fuel line or connector. Do your proper diagnostics and take the time.

I don't remember getting new bushings. You're most likely going to have to find an old set or have a machinist make new ones. On top of that, if it's really bad, your going to need a shaft too. You can always call the company, you're getting parts from, for advice. The engine I was working on wasn't going to do alot of hard work, so I wasn't worried about the bushing and shaft and it seems to run pretty good.

yup, brand new, it was definetly a fuel issue. it is fixed

@@Fixinjunkwhat exactly was the issue

@@isaacbrown4845 plugged sock on the fuel sending unit

Yup

Yeah I could rev it in neutral, the problem I had was a plugged fuel sock, on the sending unit, full of extremely fine black sandy material. Blow back on your fuel line to clear it and hook it back up. check your fuel heater screen, and try to find possible air leaks. Its not easy but keep on it and do step by step diagnostics. starting with the fuel tank then all the way to the injectors. Its always possible that your brakes are dragging or another mechanical issue is happening; rubber hose collapse, caliper,etc. Good luck

yep i'll do all of that curently waiting on a new map sensor too, i apreciate it.@@Fixinjunk

took me 9 months almost every night doing something

I believe that I got the whole rebuild kit from these guys, carburetor.ca/index.html

@@Fixinjunk i talked to john deere this morning. They said ar13022 is the new number. I found one on amazon for $20 cheaper than they were asking

Awesome as long as its the same should be good@@AgeOfGrace2023

I wasn't planning on it, I'd like to convert the sprocket to 404 so i can use it on a long bar

I honestly don't know what conversion a 2wd nv4500 to a 4x4 entails, might need an main shaft too

as long as your carburetor/engine is tuned with that specific mix ratio

Are you talking about a cold start up? because this truck always spits and sputters on a cold start up and clears up after a minute or two?

I'm glad it helped you out, thanks for subscribing!

with the bearing retainer, get one with a new bearing and race too, as long as its a 96 and newer nv4500

​@@Fixinjunk can you use the gm clutch? Or do I gotta get a dodge one

@@tuckerfinnicum3949 dodge flywheel and clutch

it had its clips still

The welsh plug in the carburetor bypassed the jets, a new carburetor fixed the issue.I could have installed new welsh plugs but there is a special tool for those type of carburetors.

@@Fixinjunk I’ve thought about getting the kit that includes setting tools for every type of welch plug.

@@Rein_Ciarfelladefinitely would be good in your tool arsenal. I haven't gotten a set yet because it didn't justify the cost at the time.

@@Fixinjunk Same here, but it’s on my wish list. So far I’ve only ever removed one welch plug but I’d really like to be able to remove every one every time I clean a carb in my ultrasonic in order to do a really complete job. I have yet to replace a carb - I always rebuild them.

It needs to have a 1.25" Input shaft installed, if it isn't already, no matter what. If you use a transfercase off of a GM, most likely your going to need a 32 spline output on the nv4500 (dodge used 29(Diesel) and 23(gas) splines. Your best bet is to get a NV4500 from a gm 4x4 truck

Well it depends on the circumstances you cant bring the shop with you on the road.I was wrong about the fuel pumps but not about the sock in the tank that was plugged and that's what the problem was, and why I made the follow up video. Thank you very much

And please enlighten me on "fuel rest"

Thanks for watching, the 024s I've run are nice little saws for the cc's

I don't know, the truck I built or the truck I got the transmission from?

If you ported before go for it but don't do it because cylinders aren't really available, aftermarket 56mm cylinders have been popping up on ebay so it might be worth it now. I wanna revisit that saw I've got an extra cylinder with some flaws i can mess with. Thanks for watching!

Thanks! Thats pretty cool what you did. I realized I needed a special rope from Stihl lol. I hate the elastostart and "easy" start systems from Stihl. For what ever reason the elastostart or big Stihl saws will kick back on starting sometimes, and it pisses me off, so with the normal handle it doesn't kick backas hard when and if it ever happens.

@@Fixinjunk Yeah it's just a size-of-rope thing I'm actually looking at my 590 right now the rope needs like 1" taken out but I can't pull-through the handle so gonna have to re-do it and cut 1" off the rope (as it's meant for a 660 that ended up getting a d-handle) Re the bigger ones it depends what you're running but for instance my unit w/ a d-handle is a high-compression ported 100cc 660 with advanced timing, I have to put on my nitrile glove w/ the d-handle or I won't even bother it's too easy to rip a callous right off your hand....my regular bore 54mm 660 has OEM Elasto and it's nice but at some point want to swap that as well (actually it resides inside an OEM starter assembly which, given the market, I feel bad even taking to work LOL, only just found out just how limited they are / how much people are charging yikes, ordering an aftermarket just to take mine off b4 breaking it :P )

At the time I did pressure test and vacuum test my fuel lines, the fuel pump was under spec and borderline bad. This engine spits and sputters when its cold but clears up

I just use a hammer and center punch. I put the saw on the ground against my foot and I wrap the crank a few times always works for me. Thanks for watching!

in 5th gear, 4.10 rear end, top out at about 75mph. I've driven down the interstate screaming haven't had an issue

@@Fixinjunk yeah I don’t have my tach set up yet just sound like it is scream at 60mph yeah stock dually rearend I am doing some upgrade to my injection pump just don’t want to be blowing up when I start towing my derby cars my nv4500 is stock one out of my truck

@@MudSlingerRacing21 Just got my tach to work. I'll upload a video on that. I towed a 8k camper 300 miles on i-84 PA passing trucks up Monticello. Passing cars is scetchy. It really needs 3.73 for highway driving. At 50/60 its doing 2100rpm, kinda like a tractor working all day I'll be ok

@@Fixinjunk sweet yeah if ya can do a video sweet I was just going to run my wire to my alternator

@@Fixinjunk Hey how are you doing I had one more question for you did you have trouble bleeding the clutch after you did your envy 45 behind your Cummins mine is still pretty soft and I bled the crap out of mine if I get in the truck and just press it to the Ground egg kind of grain is a little bit and goes in gear play pump Up in 0123 times then it’s fine

what kind of problems are you having?

Husqvarna 285, 298, 2100, 2101. I'd try ebay. you might have to buy a whole new pump to get one. Part number for the brass worm gear is #501 29 27-02. make sure you keep the washer between the crank and the brass worm gear.

@@Fixinjunk Thank you very much for information and advices!

The oil pickup line is the easiest part to check and clean. If the pick up line is good, check the brass worm gear, they can strip threads and go bad. Remove the clutch then there's a metal cover/ring you'll have to pull off to access it, check out my 298 video you'll see what I'm talking about and what it looks like. Hope that helps thanks for watching!

Yes just remove the muffler to access the oil line pickup

I'm not familiar with the 65, maybe the L77. I know the 480 is an updated L77. I dont know if that helps. Your going to have to do some research. My upcoming video I'm going to talk about some interchangeability on the big 200 series saws check it out. Thanks for watching!

Well I appreciate the offer but I'm using all OEM parts on this build, and old used parts I've already acquired. Thanks for watching

@@Fixinjunk thanks for your kind reply.If you need any parts in the future,pls contact me.Thanks.

Good video, it's always nice to see different ways to splitting a crankcase. looking forward to your next video. I don't know if it's just me or you need to clean your lens on your camera but it was blurry.

@@stihlhead3338 Hey thanks for the nice comment I appreciate it. I was recording on my phone with a broken screen at the time

Yeah I don't know. I looked again and I don't see any other pistons that have that. I don't see why that's necessary to have the metal there honestly. If you get one and inspect it you'll know what i mean

Well you could try the tillotson, I wouldn't mess with the original walbro (WJ39) because its hard to find another, and I'm sure the 395s used walbros too wj115, I think could be wrong. 390 or 372 x torq carb may work too, stuff to try. Just inspect that cylinder very well, for dents, and the pulse line hole, seen metal fragments in both of mine.