gracias por el video estuve casi que compraba ese espaciador, que puedes recomendar para mejorar un v8 tbi 350 bloque pequeño, Saludos

sorry the music killed my interest soooo fast, rather hear the engine...

Thanks for the advice.

I’ve dynoed a lot in my own shop. This is actually right going by typical drivetrain loss on 4l60e and on 4x4 of that year range. For a 88-95 5.7l tbi. 166 rwhp actually equals 210 crank hp which is what they were rated for. Good running truck.

I had to take my tbi off for the supercharger, sadly it was carb or sniper only.

Curious... why was the alternator label blurred out

It would have been better to hear the engine running while on the dyno than to silence your annoying music.

If you're not going to do a performance carburetor, a performance intake and heads with a cam it's pointless technically with a performance intake and carb with a good cam it might help with fuel atomization and flow fuel air mixture through the intake better and make more power if your goal is 300-500 hp on a sbc

@12:20. Hawaii or Colorado... Next you'll tell me is that this vid was captured in Florida.

I have a 94 Yukon & I'll suggest before giving up, the spacer you want is made by " High Velocity Heads " but know this... the secret to getting a few extra ponies out of a TBI is getting more air out the exhaust. Magnaflow makes an excellent performance Y pipe with cat convertor that bolts right up. Add both of those together with a set of 1.6 ratio rocker arms on your stock cam & you'll feel that in the seat of your pants. Computer won't have a problem with any of it. More bottom end snap off the line, a nice torky sweet spot from 2000-2500. 2500 to 3500's not to shabby either. You gotta let her breath, no one mod will get you what you want. PS. to avoid poor cold start conditions stick the upper base gasket to the bottom of the tbi with a little RTV for proper IAC performance. (so not too lean) Need that with that style of spacer.

How to increase OBS power; Buy donor truck -> LS swap

Hey bro I know this is about a year ago but where did you get that alternator at I'm trying to find one like that

Pretty interesting but I do need to say that when you do the lid flip trick you're getting a lot of hot air from the engine compartment and that's not being shown here by having the hood up in a big old fan blowing on it

Throw a cam in it.

Drill some holes in it for NOS.

What's the link for the alternator?

CAM, HEADS, FUEL DELIVERY WILL NEVER, not be the answer...

Dynamometer roller says R.I.P. to those flip-flops you get close enough

Hey were truck twins!!!

Hey little buddy, let me tell you the best fix. Get you a metal heater hose fitting that size that is galvanized or either stainless steel. You screw it down into your manifold. Then replace both of heater hoses. I did that about 20 years ago. I’ve only had to replace my heater hoses twice.. you’re throwing your money away my friend. ☕️

Man I miss Colorado Springs, beautiful place.

Do u have any of the links to the parts u got ?

These TBI engines were designed to do only 1 thing….pass emissions. This engine family is an example of the big car companies designing emission friendly engines from the ground up. In the 60’s engines were focused on power. In the 70’s they detuned the powerful engines because of the gas crisis. In the 80’s they focused in passing emissions and becoming electronic. In the 90’s they started power again. In the 2000’s they finally figured out a way to have power and be clean. These TBI engines are basically 80’s engines. You can’t really get much out of them.

Fantastic! Thank you so much for the aluminum "straps" idea for the underside of the front bumper. I was debating how to approach this and your idea of using an aluminum bar is brilliant, inexpensive, and as you noted, will be better attached than the factory setup. I may or may not do the quick releases, as my 2008 Yaris is black, not blue, but I certainly like the concept and agree with the need for an easily detachable/reattachable joint there. I also really like your approach of jacking up the car and then placing the ramps under the wheels, one side at a time. Way better than driving the car up onto the ramps, which is what I had been doing. P.S. What year is your Yaris?

I don't think it would make a difference but it would be interesting to see if a phenolic throttle body spacer made any difference.

Please get mine up and looking better. Hahah. 8ft bed ex cab 1500 92. Shes a runner supposedly rebuilt but idk. Had it 10 years. No smoke strong trans. But the body and interiro need help. Along with a nice coolant flush and all. TLC. Hahah

Remember something called a tornado? It was from the 90s

I get one yaris too. Im orginally from Makiki.and i like your vlogs braddah🤙

So ive got a 95 4.3. I recently installed the throttle body spacer, a injector spacer, and i used Spectre's stud kit to go from the twin air cleaner studs to the single air cleaner stud. Motortrend did a video testing different styles of air filters and i seen that the spectre air cleaner with the filtered top actually increased power by like 3 horses so i bought one and after driving it for about a month and a half i can tell a difference in throttle responce and fuel mileage. I did give it 10 degrees in timing and that was a night and day difference. I dont think the spacer does anything by itself, but i think when it is accompanied with other parts and a little bit of help it does add a little bit of pep to the step.

You should dyno it sgain see what itnpicked up hp wise

Youre lucky you got the metal part out. It usually breaks and turns into a two hour job to remove it.

Thanks for your testing on the GM T.B.I. I just bought a rust free G20 with a 350 TBI. Runs ok but always looking for more, I flipped the lid and gave it 10 degrees more base time and that woke it right up. Header and 3 inch pipe are next.

You did a terrific job, welds looked great. I have a 94 Z71 that i bought new, and the very back manifold bolt broke while driving in cold weather, I believe GM saved money on cheap bolts. I replaced the manifolds with stainless steel headers with ARP Bolt kits after I laid across the top of the engine bay with the 90 degree drill and tap. I ended up wrapping the headers with heat tap to keep the under hood temps down. Thanks.

Great video! Thanks man!👍🏼

This is the fitting you need to do this properly: AC Delco 15-33220 GM12597484 it is 3/4 x1/2 NPT and has the same 3/8" restriction as the OE QD fitting and is steel.

166 horsepower at the real Wheels sounds about right as far as factory specs go considering that's only probably a 230 horsepower engine so 166 at the rear wheel with all the miles that thing has on it because it is a used truck to me that sounds about right 👍

I have read every where you're supposed to gain 10 to 20 horsepower with those I have never really expected them to make power in fact I kind of always thought it was snake-oil like you said in the beginning of the video I do believe they make your throttle more responsive but I believe that is absolutely it but I do a hundred percent thing that they give you a better throttle response but that is it

Just upgraded my 100 amp alternator to a GM 140 amp alternator on my 97 GMC Sierra 5.7L as that helped out tremendously with the aging wiring in the truck.

Yea but people that know much think that the difference should be at wot like long tube headers, every nut sucker swears by long tube headers yes they make more power at full throttle but they feel weaker than shortys at part throttle. Just my point of view ive raced and built many engines i care more for part throttle gain than full throttle gain if its full throttle those big mods should really add up.

Thank you for doing this dyno test! You saved me money; I wondered if the TBI spacers added power and now we all know the answer.

So many people say to do the lid flip. I don't see how sucking hot air from your engine compartment is better than the cold air it pulls from the fender/wheel well. My tubes don't seem that restricted compared to intakes I've replaced in the past.

Couple tips and things to also think about. I did the same upgrade on my 2004 Suburban, and am going to do the same upgrade to my 1996 Suburban. The stock alternator on my 2004 could not keep up either after dual electric fans. So I bought a 250 amp alternator from mechman alternator, and they recommend a 1/0 battery cable from the alternator to battery and 1/0 ground cable from battery to frame and chassis. Also with a 250 amp high output alternator, I would also install a 275 to 300 amp fuse on the cable going from the alternator to the battery in case the alternator goes bad and starts overcharging and or sends hi amps through the cable due to high resistance which could melt connections and battery cables causing a fire. It's what I did, and I feel safer for installing the fuse.

Parts number on alternator etc.

My 96 GMC has 237,000 miles and I never had to replace that part I've had the truck for 20 years and put 200,000 miles on it

change it over to AN fittings? hmm wonder if a 10 AN would fit or there abouts? no matter, good job getting er done. thank you for sharing.

Who makes the alternator.

That's 166 rwh, flywheel hp would up around 210 hp! So things are looking up.

If you would of lightly pounded on the broke bolt after welding, that pushes the threaded end back against the hole treads in the head. Soak with kroil or knocker loose and tap on the welded bolt, they would of backed out. Works the same for exhaust studs on a Lycoming or a radial engine cylinder head.

Lol a spacer raises the drop so without other things added it won't do much or anything at all. Most effective is to put a stronger regulator spring and adjuster to keep 15,psi on the TBI.

Throttle body spacers are designed to give part throttle gains, not full throttle which is why it wasn’t reflected on the Dyno. While the spacers aren’t overly useful on most applications there are two that the Throttle body spacers work exceptionally well on… 4.0L Jeep engines (97-06) and 88-95 350 TBI engines. The fact this dude thinks testing a throttle body spacer on a chassis Dyno was a good idea speaks volumes towards his remarks and credibility. 🤡