Thanks for watching! I don't quite remember but the lumber was probably $1200 or something like that.

Thank you very much!

I replaced both, just didn’t show it! Same process.

@@fowlerfinefurniture Way different process! Removing the bottom tire involves removing the V belt. I just used tie wraps and did it in place.

@@harryhagelund7674 I don't remember exactly but I don't think I removed the belt, I show myself putting the bottom wheel back on, sorry I wasn't more helpful!

I think the full length pieces for a 4' wide table I cut to 38". Best thing to do is lay it all out on a program like sketchup so you'll know exactly what you need.

Thank you brotha! I appreciate that.@@fowlerfinefurniture

On white oak I like to use mist 5% or mist. Lots of good options though!

I used 5%white on my floors and like it but Rubio is pushing the natural for the sanded look just haven’t seen any projects done with it. So this was the 5% mist?

@@jameypritchard7790 yeah 5% mist. I haven’t tried the natural, if I’m going for a more natural look I use Rubio Pure

@@fowlerfinefurniture I am new to trying to use anything other than lacquer or polyurethane. Is the mist used on this a Rubio product as well as the final coat spread with the plastic scraper? I am building a round coffee table using white oak drift wood and I'd like to use a natural stain, perhaps just a little darker, but close to natural and hoping it does not yellow over time. Any product info is greatly appreciated.

The intersections you could cut 45’s, they also sell pieces pre cut like that. I bought some of those, but I actually prefer to just leave some gaps at the intersections so that you can slide in the accessories from the middle of the table and not just from the edges.

I think it was some sort of green wood sealer from Rockler.

@@fowlerfinefurniture oh you used the real stuff! In that heat and humidity, that blank will be dry tomorrow

Honestly I haven’t had the time to test it yet but I will post an update once I do.

Yeah there are a lot of opinions of course, I think as long as it is well dried wood and kept in a moderate climate, it shouldn’t move enough to affect it. It will move, but all depends on how much it moves, totally possible for structural issues to occur. I did this for a client over a year ago and haven’t had any issues so far, hope your table holds up. All the best!

Rubio monocoat oil plus 2C “pure”

They are from a company called fastcap. Love them!

Thank you! I think it was around $850 just for the wood

Thanks! I honestly didn't know the difference until someone asked for it specifically haha, very nice wood to work with, one of my favorites now.

Thank you, made my day!

It’s a shop fox 6” jointer from grizzly, just upgraded to the jet 6” long-bed though, better for longer boards. Thanks for watching!

$1,100 or so depending on size.

I custom built it!

Urban Outfitters is where you've probably seen it and they call it the Isobel Bookshelf. They're very popular and run for $999.99 + taxes and shipping.

Thank You!

Thank you! It would probably be a good idea to add come support from underneath although I haven't had any issues with the table. It also has little to no flex because the pieces were so thick I believe.

At the time I think it was over $2k for the walnut material alone, probably even more now

Thank you Vince!

Thanks for watching!

Yeah could’ve done it that way. I think I was trying to get them all to more manageable sized pieces before squaring the faces/edges. Also was trying to figure out the exact size for each piece to reduce waste, 8/4 walnut ain’t cheap!

@@fowlerfinefurniture Well you definitely killed it. Table looks great!

@@ialex2005i thanks for the support, glad you like it!

Thank you Reags!

Absolutely recommend taking your shirt off while on the miter saw, especially during the summer. However, it is not required

Love your simple design and great solid construction - well done ! Walnut is a fantastic hard would but would love to know how much did it you in America?

@@johndunn36 Thanks John! I don’t remember exactly how much but it wasn’t cheap! Somewhere in the neighborhood of $1500 for the walnut, thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks Christian!

Thank you! The wood will expand and contract as all solid wood does, but all the pieces should move together so it shouldn't create any gaps. Before cutting all the pieces I drew up the table on SketchUp and found the center of the table that way. The center of a herringbone pattern is in the middle at the end of each piece, not at any of the corners of the pieces. Hopefully that makes sense, glad you enjoyed the table build.

@@fowlerfinefurniture My worry with movement is the end grain to side grain areas. If you in any way attach the end grain in a bread board fashion to another board you are restricting movement and it will eventually crack. this is what I am struggling with right now in doing this almost exact build. I am thinking just connect each side together and not connect the end grain portions and let each half move as a unit avoiding cracking. I am also using 3/4" boards on a substrate that will be screwed from underneath with elongated holes. Any comment on this?

@@pepperman9 hey Tim! You are correct with your concerns. I’ve seen other tables built like this for sale on Etsy, contacted him asking if he’s had any issues and he said he hasn’t. This is the only one I’ve built and no issues so far. It’s obviously a little controversial haha. In one of David pachutos videos from “make something” he did a chevron table and didn’t attach it in the middle, so that’s similar to what you’re talking about. You should always consider wood movement, so just build whatever you’re comfortable with. Bread boards are the same thing but that end grain to side grain connection is long, usually 30” or so, and movement is minimal, these connections are around 5” so even less movement. I’m not recommending you build your table this way, this is just what I’ve done! Best of luck!

@@fowlerfinefurniture Came here for this discussion as I'm looking at creating a herringbone table too. I'm wondering if metal c-channel stringers might help. The other option, though not as elegant but more economical, would be to laminate the herringbone pattern onto mdf or ply.

@@kevingoldberg8444 Yeah I think some c-channel would definitely help. Also, if the base is a more traditional/supportive base that would also help, just make sure to use fasteners that will allow the top to expand and contract. I did think about doing veneer, which is probably the safest bet, but then you need to do edge banding or a frame around it and that changes the look a bit. Best of luck!

Welcome aboard!

Yeah it is an x-carve! Thanks for the info, wasn't sure how the whole for kids or not thing worked but I'll look into changing that. I appreciate the sub, thanks!