Thanks for the video

First off you can go threw the computer to retract the electric parking brake

You’re the man !!! Local Indy shop quoted me $595 for just the labor , woke up early and did it myself thank you !!

You’ve said before careful 100 times. Cut to the chase lmao

Thank you so much! Doing this today!

Thank you. The greatest tip for me was the removing the motor for the manual brake so I could do the compression for the new pads.

Great Vid. Will this be the same you think for an E60 xdrive 535i 2010 you think? Thanks

Horrible video

I’m having a serious problem with my 2015 f10 n55. I’ve replaced the thermostat and have taken it to bmw just to figure out nothing and spend 600 bucks for no reason. It’s overheating and I have no heat but when I get under the car, I can’t find any leaks whatsoever coming from the thermostat, water pump, reservoir, and all the hoses. The day after taking to bmw and getting a pressure test, which passed, the coolant was all on the ground near the water pump. They said it was likely the water pump but I’m just trying to make sure before spending hundreds on the pump

My 2014 320xi had the same problem. My source of water was the sunroof drains. Even though I never use it the drains were clogged with dirt. Looking forward to another 10yrs.

Whts a good aftermarket brand for the water pump?

Great vid everything was easy u told us what size tools very direct and easy instructions

🤤 Promo-SM

Buddy use a flat head then a t47

It’s easy asf if u do everything in bottom undo the 4 blots on sway and u can get all 3 bolts after took 5 min to get it out

It’s easy asf if u do everything in bottom undo the 4 blots on sway and u can get all 3 bolts after took 5 min to get it out

Nice but did you like torque anything?=

Excellent video! can I ask what brand is your new pump? (as it doesn't look like OEM) and wonder how well is it holding up as I don't want to pay $400 for OEM.

Is the water pump belt driven?

Question… what indicated that the water pump was bad?

that big collar bolt (that goes through the hub into the CV axle) is a torque to yield bolt FWIW and should be replaced when you do this job. BMW uses a ton of TTY bolts all over the place and they're all single use.

Well explained video!! I replaced the thermostat housing since I already had the fan out

Well explained !

Is this the same for the 2011 535i

Great video, but a question, did you vacuum fill the system before bleeding it? I understand that's a major deal with F10 Bimmers.

GREAT video and my upcoming work will be much easier now, especially in regard to sourcing the Duralast Triple Square Bit Socket Set (note that it's not available currently on Amazon but this is an Autozone tool set and it's in stock at my local Autozone - Part # 60-900). One thing though: At about 3:15 you mention that you used an 11/16" size socket to remove the caliper bolts. I'm glad it worked out, but the proper size is 17 mm. 11/16" works out to about 17.4 mm. There is risk of rounding out the bolts when using that slightly oversized 11/16" socket.

Did u have to remove some brake fluid

How did you get the hub off? Mines seems stuck. I used wd40. Did u have to bang on it or did it just pop out

I just ordered mine hubs from FCPEURO YAYYYY

Super helpful video, thank you. One question though, are you able to install the new assembly without the special press from BMW? I've seen other videos where it appears that the fitment is very snug. Seems like maybe you could put a block of wood on the front side and tap it with the rubber mallet, but wondering if you have tips. Thanks again!

Yea I'm sorry but you put the bearing in upside down the square tab on the back side of the bearing goes in the groove at the bottom

Thank you so much. I've been looking all over to find that specific bit socket called Triple square bit socket which fits my 2013 BMW 750i. Thanks to you now I know what to buy and how to replace the wheel bearing. Thank you.

nice! I did the same. One trick is to FIRST open the oil-filter-cap so the oil can flow MUCH easier due to the income of air inside the oil tubing! nonetheless, thank you :)

great video!! I have exactly the same car, and I reckon, that videos about this type of car are hard to come by. So I really appreciate your effort. ...So I managed to fuck up the front-passanger-side rotor-holding screw due the presence of sticky and disgusting rust. I had to drill a whole through the screw, and smashing a T-25 inside it to finally get it out (partially!) so now I am left with just remaining outer parts of the screw, which is inside the hub bearing. I have to try to rework the threads with a M8 thread-mill. It sucks :( I just wanna give you some infos, in case you will be faced with future repair on the shitty water pump... It is doable, in a matter of fact, it is easy, but fiddly. On my 2012 535i xdrive with adaptive drive and dynamic drive there is one trick!... you have to pull the Waterpump from the TOP. Prior to that the fan-shroud has to come out (and preferably the radiator as well. but I managed to let it on his place. then I changed the valve cover gasket... front and rear brakes (rotors and pads) Cabin air filter, cleaning the intake valves and many other things. I'm experiencing a knocking sound when vigorously shaking my steering wheel while the car is NOT running. (ignition off)! So my next project will be trying to remove the steering rack, but I reckon it will be nearly impossible to do that, 'cause there are so many struts and bars due to xDrive and Dynamic drive (active rollbar-stabilsation). Do you have any ideas on how to fix this? well, I assume its the left inner tie rod. I will check tomorrow. I will let you know if you are interested. It would be nice to have you as a friend whom I can share and also learn more about repairing our cars. thank you :)

I have the same issue, so this is really helpful.

Great video, I searched for a while to find an F10 535i Xdrive front Wheel Bearing hub video. Curious what the full time to do the job was.