Thank you. I appreciate you watching and commenting

Nice, good advice. Happy to hear you got yours done . Thanks for watching and commenting.

I have had much experience with these lockers and manual transmission trucks. They can give a clunk/bang in certain situations but definitely not every time you hit the clutch. In order for them to work the inner pieces on either side of the center pin have increased movement . This is obvious in that the driveshaft has more movement before it starts to move the vehicle when changing from forward to reverse. Gear contact is still tight, but there is now slack in your driveline that is normal. When hitting the clutch in certain situations the slack can cause some noise/jerking as the driveshaft has no forward pressure on it and the rearend is still moving forward so it takes up the slack to one direction, re engage the clutch and all the slack is now moved the other direction. If turning and applying or releasing the clutch at the same time, you'll have a good chance it will have a jerking/popping or noise/feel of some kind. Since an automatic transmission is always pulling forward (or backwards depending on gear selection) this is considerably less. All that to say, once you get the hang of it you can adjust your driving style to compensate for this most of the time. Go slow and leave the clutch engaged while turning when possible. Don't brake mid turn then get back on the gas hard that'll make a racket every time. Be aware the noise and jerking are not hurting anything, it's just the slack doing it's thing. Makes people look and think you just broke, but you'll know better. I hope this makes sense and helps. Before my busted knee designated me to automatic transmission duty, I drove manual vehicles with auto lockers on the road daily for many years. Like I say you'll develop a driving style that works around the issues and minimizes the noises. I would definitely move forward and install the mechanical lockers. They work great, are always on and are very hard to break (not to mention inexpensive). Let me know if you have any other questions. Thank you for watching and asking.

Thanks I appreciate your response very well informed and definitely able to get the picture of what you mean of using this with manual transmission

@mrgpomona420 Awesome. I appreciate it.

Thank you! Much appreciated

It is my experience that once welded, it is welded for life and no longer usable for any other purpose but a welded differential . Thank you for watching and commenting.

Yea I was reading on that. Maan really hoped it was reusable after. But thanks for your response. Have you driven one as a daily driver? Any experience on slick pavement snow or in mud?

You're welcome. I have driven a truck with a welded differential on the road on dry pavement and the inside tire chirps and hops, I didn't like it. I never drove it on slick or wet roads, I don't think it would be a good time. Off road it was good for traction

I'm in Indiana.

Thank you! I'm doing much better and definitely have the determination and will power to be my old self again. Look for more videos in the very near future. I appreciate you watching and I appreciate your support .

Yes, that's correct, it does. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Thank you! I appreciate you watching and supporting my channel.

Oh dang. That was 4 years ago. And this was a manual transmission. I haven't done an automatic transmission unit in years either. Can you get to them with a socket and extensions? I bet you are talking about the upper on either side. Mayhaps a wrench between the frame crossmember and the steering rack? Sorry I'm not much help.

Thanks man. Gotta do what makes you happy. My truck my rules. Thank you for watching and commenting, I definitely appreciate your support of my channel .

1. I did mark the driveshaft/flange location by scratching it with a wrench. (I even put text on screen about the importance of marking it). If you are referring to orientation of the 2 sections of the shaft, since I didn't remove it, it has no choice but to go back in the same orientation it was in. Hope this helps. 2. Why does it need supported? It isn't hurting it to hang. 3. Thank you for watching and commenting

​@funjunkiegarage what year truck is this? I've noticed some don't have the flange to make it this easy

This is a 2000 model year.

I imagine you do. This was rusted so bad it wasn't worth fixing. But it was way fun to drive, until it started breaking in half. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Thank you for the information. Thank you for watching and sharing.

Thanks for the tip on the TRD badges. I did get one from ebay for my truck. Glad you enjoyed the video and thank you for the compliment. Thanks for watching. I appreciate you supporting my channel.

I did it on the video just as I did it on the 4runner and that's all it took. Sorry yours is giving you a problem. I don't know what is different or what advice to offer. Good luck with it

Nope

Awesome! Thank you for watching and commenting.

Glad yours wasn't stuck. I always appreciate the sharing of experiences and knowledge. I'll definitely check it out. Many people have suggested the Spicer unit and I'll certainly be giving it a try. Happy you enjoyed the video. I appreciate you watching and sharing your information.

The cable inside the drum pulls the bottom of the emergency brake lever and makes the front shoe move. Hope this helps.

The factory bolt is approximately 7.5" × 5/8" except it's metric. But that will get you back together. That is definitely an awesome compliment for my channel! Thank you for saying so. I absolutely appreciate your support.

@@funjunkiegarage the length was what I was most concerned about Thank you sir

@jasonthurman9922 you're welcome.

I'll try that next time

Damn straight she do.

Yes it could have. But no one wanted it. Thanks for watching and commenting.

I like to have everything fresh and do all the maintenance stuff while it's out. If it's clean and dry and runs great, you may not need much. I'd figure a couple hundred for fluids and tune up stuff , if it needs a timing belt there is 300.00 to 500.00 depends on parts supplier. Just make sure you get a good look and replace what it needs you'll be glad you did when it's all together and trouble free. Hope this helps.

I buy the full Aisin kit from Rock Auto. I cannot put Rock Auto links here. I've always had great success with the Aisin kit. It has Koyo bearings and I've used it several times Hope that helps.

It is a Mitsubishi belt. It's part of the Aisin kit.

Thank you. That's a great idea. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge.

It's a fun spot for sure. Thanks for watching

Hahahahahaha. He's a good boy!

Thank you. I'm feeling better by the day, should be my old self again soon. Much appreciate your support!

Thank you brother. Much appreciate you watching and commenting .

Thank you. There is a Lock Right locker in the rear in this video. I love it. Thank you for watching and commenting

@@funjunkiegarage awesome almost looks like the front tire in the air spun some too. thought maybe you had a locker up front as well. Nice tundra build for sure.

@lukebrinkman9263 thank you, I love it. Front locker is in the plans, I'll do another re gear to 4.88 at that time.

Thanks Mark I knew you'd like the blue. I dig the goggles too. On my way to 100% Can't wait to see you soon. Much appreciate you brother.

Thank you brother. Much appreciated!

Hahahahahaha. Thanks friend. I'm damn glad to have survived! And if I'm a cat, I have 5 left! Here's to 20 more years!! I appreciate you brother, we need to go wheel!

Thank you for the kindness. Happy to be be getting better every day. I plan to rock the helmets! I very much appreciate your support.

Thank you brother. Plan to get back to my best soon as possible. Much appreciate all your support.

If the bushings are worn badly you'll definitely need an alignment. But you can get it close at home first. Not sure how far away from the alignment shop you are but a drive across town won't kill your tires if you're close on alignment. Setting toe with a tape measure is easy and gets you in good enough shape to drive a bit. Hope this helps. I sure appreciate you watching and commenting.

I go by average of 90,000 miles or 8 years. It's not exposed to the elements or oil hopefully so that seems fair to me. Just my opinion. The one on my Tundra looks new, but it's at 95,000 and 8 years, so I'll be changing it soon. Hope this helps. I appreciate you watching and commenting.

Thanks Bruce Stop by some time.

It was sent

Thank you. Enjoy your project. I appreciate you watching and commenting

I think you'll need to remove the alternator as well, just for eaiser access. I'm not 100% sure but I think so. Hope this helps

Hahahahahaha That park is no joke. Easy to get injured if you aren't paying attention.

Thanks brother. This is a pretty gnarly spot for sure. Definitely an oh shit moment for sure. Thanks for watching I'm glad you enjoyed it.

Thank you. I definitely like it better than a 4runner. More room and very comfortable, same capability.

Nice, thank you brother . I hope you get one soon.

Thank you. Yes, after running it for a bit and adding fresh fuel it started running much better. Much appreciate you watching and commenting.