You’re welcome. I’m glad it helped.

Thank you! Was testing out my drone.

@@Nathansmithphotography nice👌

Thank you. Got this at the beginning of December and as an early Christmas present and I am still learning.

Thank you! I realize it’s not the most exciting topic, but I’m glad the information was helpful.

You’re very welcome. I’m glad this was helpful. Your comment made my day! :-)

You’re very welcome. I’m glad you found this useful!

monsieur Vador Glad it was helpful. Happy shooting!

Nathan Smith Photography man I’m so thankful.. GOD BLESS YOU .. for your beautiful intentions to help people.

Luke Po Good questions. First, when you half press on the shutter you should see the ISO drop to what will be used for that photo. And I only use AUTO shutter on my “darkest” setting, because it does choose 1 1/2 times the focal length, and for example with the 10-24mm at 10mm it will choose 1/15 of a second, which I feel is too low, although that lens has OIS, and I have a great shot of the famous Eiffel Tower handheld at 1/10 of a. second with that lens.

What do you see when you point at a bright light and push the shutter half way down? You should see it change. Is the ISO dial on "A"?

@@Nathansmithphotography hi, Iam new to fuji system.. I bought an xh1 and an xc lens (no aperture ring) Its a full fiddliness trying to set thing the way i wanted, ex: P mode, where i can not set it to P mode. Iso auto,,, now i realized the min shutter is lower than my setting, ex : iso i set (400-3200) using indoors, and min shutter 1/60, Now i see the iso always at the max but no where near the base min iso. Also my shutter is lower than my minimum setting which was 1/10th. When i think it was in Pmode i can't change the SS and A.

Baim Adji So if you can change the aperture with I believe the front control ring, turn it until you see “A”. Then set the shutter dial on “A” and you should see the letter “P“ in the viewfinder indicating Program Mode. .

Nathan Smith Photography there is no aperture ring on XC lens. If i use lens that has an aperture ring i know exactly what to do.

Baim Adji I know. I have the 27mm f2.8 lens. You change the aperture with a control ring on the front or back of the camera. Change it to “A”. Which lens do you have?

Jed, I don’t own that camera so I’m not really sure. With most camera brands, generally the more expensive models have more buttons or dials that give you more direct control. On the less expensive models you usually have to drill into the menu to get certain things accomplished. Unfortunately, I do hear people say ‘well get this model because it has the same sensor as the more expensive model“. While the picture quality can be the same, the shooting experience can be very different because of the extra controls. It might be worth picking up a used XT2 or Pro2 if this feature is important to you. Perhaps someone who owns an XT 20 can chime in here.

Jed, I just reread your last comment. On my T2 and Pro2, usually I’m quickly changing ISO while shooting, and I often give either camera just a quick half press on the shutter, but I do it so quickly now it’s almost instinctive.

@@Nathansmithphotography half press might be the way forward, but I don't like that it'll then focus the lens (especially if it's dark and the lens has to hunt)

Jed a very quick press should do it. When you let go the lens will stop hunting.

@@Nathansmithphotography I'll give it a go, thanks for the coaching!

Jed , watch my other video on how to change AUTO ISO SUPER FAST. Takes like 2 seconds. And many manufacturers give you only 1 setting. I’m ok with 3. I practically never use the AUTO shutter speed selection. Instead I have 3 different custom settings.

@@Nathansmithphotography thanks, will do!

Peter Johnson I’m glad this helped. With the X 100 F there is also the issue of not being able to use a super fast shutter speed when shooting wide open, but this can be solved by engaging the ND filter.

@@Nathansmithphotography Thank you very much.

Richard Gingras Thank you. I’m glad it was helpful.

Paulo, Are you shooting in aperture priority? And are the ISO dial and the shutter dial both set to “A“?

@@Nathansmithphotography Yes they are. I was hopping to see the changes in numbers on the screen in real time, but its is always iso6400, then i realized that only when i review the image on screen it shows the real iso it was taken, my bad. BUT i was hopping iso should come down a bit more.

Paulo Parreira You SHOULD see the correct ISO with a half press of the shutter button BEFORE taking the photo in the viewfinder.

@@Nathansmithphotography No, pressing the shutter, always shows 6400 even pointing at daylight.

Paulo Parreira what camera are you using? Does it say AUTO in front of the ISO in the EVF.

The Dog's Side What is your maximum ISO and what is your minimum shutter speed in your settings for auto ISO?

Nathan Smith Photography i have them set like you talked about in video. Day light, dusk, night. Around 400, 3200, 6400. The shutter speed is 1/30. So weird how iso never moves. Does it matter if the iso is in blue?

Nathan Smith Photography thank you

The Dog's Side Which Fuji camera do you have?

The Dog's Side Whatever Fuji camera you have, make sure the ISO dial is set to “A“.

Clive, Thanks for the comment. Funny, that I actually find my Pro2 more customizable then my XT1. But on the X-T1, I have the four directional buttons used to move my focus point, but on the Pro2 (and T2) I use the focus joystick which is much more efficient and you can move diagonally. So this actually gives me foru assignable buttons on the Pro2 that I don’t have on the T1.

Take a look at the exposure data in Lightroom, or some other program. On all my Fujis, it will say ISO1600 in the viewfinder, but when I half press the shutter, it will DROP to whatever ISO is needed. I'll bet the actual photos are exposed at different ISOs. Also, try this shooting wide open. If your aperture is too small, and you are indoors, it may always shoot at ISO 1600. Please let me know if this helps.

Nathan Smith I haven’t examined the image in Lightroom yet, thanks for the tip, I’ll let you know. I almost want to say the camera displays the iso at 1600 in playback mode too. Ultimately, it would be annoying issue if the camera is taking images at something other than iso 1600 while displaying iso 1600 on the image and in the viewfinder!!!

Well, you should be “hovering“, only for a second or so to find the exact place to put the pen to tablet, just like you do when taking a regular ink pen to paper. You obviously need to figure out where you’re going to write on the paper. Do you go to Wacom.com and make sure you have the latest driver. They do get updated frequently and sometimes they seem to be just a step behind the latest operating system. But the current drivers at least for Mac work very well. Also, it does take just a little bit of practice. I actually use a trackpad for most tasks but whatever I am in Lightroom or Photoshop I pull out the Wacom tablet.

Patrick, thanks. I’m glad it was helpful.

Pretty sure he IS speaking English. learn not to be a douch.

Peter Wydmuch , I don’t do much back button focusing, but if you move the front switch to “M” for manual focusing, your AF - L button should do this. Works for me!

Go to ~ Menu - Set Up - Button/Dial Setting - AE-L/AF-L Button Setting - (AE-L)AF-L (AF-L)AE-L. When the camera is set to manual focus, the AE-L button will be your back focus button, it's easier to use than the AF-L button.

Daniel Venter , Hopefully that’s not a bad thing! LOL

Not a bad thing at all at least now I can relate a voice to face. Funny I always assumed you might have been british!

Daniel Venter no, not British. I’m actually from California. Married an Italian eight years ago, and moved here to Pisa just over five years ago.

evanstheframe, no, because I have since learned that just pressing the shutter button slightly will show you the depth of field. I still like using the button on the front because if I change the aperture ring with the symbol in the viewfinder at least I know that I’m seeing the proper depth of field.

Little Ray Of Sarcasm, Thank you for the wonderful comment! LOL Do you check out my other video on how to set up the buttons which will make your life much easier.

Sorry, just saw this. You're very welcome.

marcogarcia if it is too dark your minimum shutter speed can drop below what you set it to. I explain this in the video. Grab your shutter dial and set it to what you want and auto ISO will still work, but will climb.

Hey Nathan, you're right, I got it. Thank you so much for help me.

We have a lot in common. The X-T2 technically IS the better camera, as it has 4K video, tilt screen, larger EVF, locking battery door, easier to use ISO dial, and shutter dial, that can be both unlocked and locked at whim, optional battery grip (that currently is free or only $100 with the camera purchase) with higher FPS, vertical grip, better refresh rate in EVF, etc. The only advantage to the X-Pro2 is the optical finder, which PERSONALLY, I really only find useful with my 23mm and 35mm lenses (I suppose it might be good with an 18mm), but with my 27mm and 56mm, the area is too small. And if someone is buying new, you can get the X-T2 WITH the grip right now for the price of the X-Pro2. BUT, if you can get a perfect condition used X-Pro2 like I did for about €500 or $500 off, that changes things. For PERSONAL shooting, the X-Pro2 is the camera I grab. Ideally, I thought having 2 XT2s and an 1 XPro2 would be ideal, but I find that since I shoot AUTO ISO and Aperture Priority, the X-Pro2 with the metal Fuji grip shoots very much like the X-T2, so I have no problem shooting with both at a wedding or event. But if I had to keep only one camera, the X-T2 is definitely more full featured. However, for most photography, especially artistic photography, the X-Pro2 has everything you need. One last thing, I don't know why Fuji on the XT series had to make the buttons so damn small. That is another thing I love about the Pro series.

Got both cameras.... much prefer the form factor of the XPRO2 over the XT2 but I am an X100s user therefore the buttons suite me better and I think the Xpro2 may be a little tougher camera. The thing pushing me to the XT2 is if I want to use large lenses like the telephoto the Xpro2 isn't well suited for that. The best video I have seen on youtube in my opinion was a bigheadtaco video reviewing the Xpro2 and XT2 and the video was made on an X100F.. I am going to test video a little between them but it is a hard decision, Was going to go XPRO2 and get a G85 for video because the IBIS and touch screen is much better for video but now I am hearing the IBIS creates a noise in the recording therefore being bad for making music videos or anything like that... Maybe I will live with the XT2 and admire my X100s Style... Hard choice, Have battery grip haven't used it.

Well, you should use the grip, and get 30 min of 4K instead of 10. Plus, you can adjust exposure compensation AS you shoot with the front dial on both the camera and when shooting vertically with the front command dial. I agree on the lenses. I own both Fuji f2.8 zooms, and when shooting wedding ceremonies, the 16-55mm is on the XPro2 with the metal grip, and the 50-140mm on the X-T2 with the Fuji battery grip. Works well.

Thank you for information. I will keep trying to decide :)

kevin, which camera? Is the ISO dial on "A" or 200?

X-T2 and yes I have the dial set to "A"

If you're always shooting in bright light then then ISO would never move off ISO 200.

Nathan Smith Photography it doesn't matter if i shoot in daylight or at night auto ISO never works for me.

Send me your email or look for me on Facebook and maybe we can do a video chat on Facebook or Skype to see what is going on. Something is wrong.

Yes, it can be frustrating, but when you know what it does, you can use that to your advantage.

You're welcome. Here you go for the better video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZoKZh6Ocqb6UeM0

Thank you Jon!

Wing Yip make sure that you add the application Photoshop in the preference control panel BEFORE you do all the custom settings. Also check that you may actually have two copies of Photoshop. Make sure you select the latest one. The easiest way is to open the application and then when you hit add you should see it in a list of open applications. Let me know if this makes sense.

Nathan Smith Photography hey, Nathan, thanks for the reply. Yeah, I even deleted the application to be sure I started from scratch. With no applications, I hit the + on the right side to add the application. I specifically browse to find the exact version of Photoshop (CC 2017) I have to add the application so I know it's not referencing and trying to add the wrong version of Photoshop. Then, I start customizing my express keys (and others) as they are initially just a copy of the ALL custom settings. I mean it's pretty straight forward stuff, but for some reason it just will not automatically utilize my application specific custom settings, only uses the All Others. pretty frustrating as it's always been this way since I originally purchased it some 3 years ago. never been able to use the various custom settings for each application so I'm limited to a VERY select few options which are usable across various applications, and you can imagine there's not going to be much useful you can cross use between applications. pretty much have to keep keyboard around to do my hot keys which sucks I cannot fully utilize the tablet's gestures and other customizable shortcuts for better productivity.

Make sure you update to the latest driver Wing. That can make a HUGE difference.

I always do. Thanks

You may have to do what I had to do maybe a year ago. Do an uninstall of the driver, reinstall the latest driver, open the programs you want to use, add them, and then put in your preferences from scratch. It's a pain in the tail to do, but that worked for me.

Basically, if you want to work in the upper left corner of the photo, place your pen in the upper left corner of the active area of the tablet. But more importantly, on the Pro tablet, if you keep the pen about an inch above the tablet, resting your palm on the tablet, you will see the cursor, and can then move the cursor to the EXACT place you want to work before setting the pen down on the tablet and affecting the image. Hopefully that helps. It does take practice also, but these tips should help some.

Thanks, Wing. Most of the time when I DO use the WI-Fi connection, it is to get some images from my camera to my iPhone, so hitting Play is one step I do anyway. Although the remote feature is cool. I've even used it to get myself into a large group photo, and can check to see if people in the front row look good from the back.

Thanks Pascal! You're very welcome.

Thank you! I'm glad it was.