You could do this with a Cerakote Color Fill Pen - was checking out other vids and found it.

Fantastic bro!! Thanks a lot for the useful video and a neat and crisp presentation!!

thanks.

I've seen guys take a small butane torch and pass quickly over the surface to get rid of those spider webs.

thank you very much

😲😲😲

Maybe a bit early while the physical prototype is still in development, but on the software end, will it be possible to have this slider cooperate with OBS studio? Or somehow connect it using another software to do things in OBS? Maybe it can be triggered to recall a set programmed movement to pan across of move around when stuff happens in a stream or something?

I made a discovery. When downloading his config file. Click on the link and download using the download "button" if you download the first link its going to be HTML code inside of the config.yaml file. That threw me for a loop getting config file issues until I opened it in a TXT editor and said W.T.F.???

Hello mate, I have an issue with the ESPduino while using the CNC shield on top of it. I used to connect the uC with UGS normally with the CNC shield on top of the ESPduino with no problem, but now there's something strange. I can't connect it with shield on top, just without it and then adding it on top. Do you know what's the issue or where to start looking at? I'm currently using TB6600 drivers, CNC shield (same version as you), and ESPduino Wemos D1 R32 I made connection with a regular ESP32 with no issues and monday morning I'm gonna make a test with a CNC shield based for Arduino Nano using a ESP32 Nano instead. Hope you're doing it ok, I enjoy the quality of the info you give. Hoping for an answers, greetings from Perú. Sorry for my bad english btw

Thanks for the tip! I tried the same idea using acrylic paint thinned with water and it seems to work just as well

amazing, what if I want to add an SD card, any suggestions on which gpio to use? i need to run a cnc machine

Currently trying to design and model my own 2-axis rig. Will you make the bill of material and the new 3D files available somewhere? Thank you for your videos they are a great source for learning and inspiration!

I’ve made a 3 axis motorised slider with 3 metres of 8040 aluminium extrusion and found that I had to turn the extrusion so it’s taller than wide otherwise the camera bounced too much in the middle. Obviously the extrusion is stronger in the wider orientation. Really enjoying following your progress.

How about using PETG, will it work too?

Very interesting and informative video, thank you.

Thank you all for joining me, let's do this again soon!

Hi - great video! What font is that?

BTW The ESPduino power connector handles up to 18 volts, in theory you could use the same power for the ESPduino and CNC motors. I was wondering if you tried this and what was your experience with it

Thanks for this, it works like a charm

This is a great help! I'm recreating a old TV dial and this is exactly what's needed!

I had very good success with acetone-free nailpolish-remover to remove the paint from unwanted spots. They didnt even mess with the PLA and i was able to omit the clear coat

that's a cool idea, I think could get a good result if use iron the surface of your pices that helps to hide the lines of print and improve the surface

The range and the brightness of the screen are not an issue, as I shoot mostly nighttime images. Being wireless is the key for me. To be clear, the HDMI transmitter from the camera draws power from the camera, or is the power bank needed for this as well as the HDMI receiver and monitor?

Clever. I like & gonna try. Subbed :)

Had to turn on all notifications. Well deserved. Great video. Thank you!!

How about bambulab

Wow this is amazing!

LOL I loved the intro

Nice result, but that's plenty of manual work to do after printing. You could get a similar result by swapping filament mid-print a couple of times, to create a colored flat layer (or probably 2 or 3 layers) for the letter bottoms and then print 1-2 more black layers with the letters cut out. However, seeing the "Original Prusa" text on your printer's panel, I realised that it would be the perfect use case for the nail polish method, because it's been printed as a cut-out on the underside. The letter bottoms are bridges, and a different-colored filament would still have the "bridge lines" visible.

I have been using a small brush and acrylic airbrush paints for this (i use those for painting miniatures). Will give nail polish a try also, i somehow did not think of that.

Why i didnt tought about that... Great!

This works only because it’s black filament. With white filament, the polish seeps in and smears all around. Apply a clear coat first and don’t thin the polish! Or use thicker UV resin from craft stores, colored with food colorings.

Cool idea

A trick for the wicking: when masking acrylic paint, paint will often wick under your tape. The easiest solution is to use a thin layer of the appropriately finished clear coat, so that transparent material wicks instead. This will seal the pores.

i never thought of this, but I used to paint eyes and white marks with the nail brush from the bottle! genius

Hi! Is there a way to smooth print lines ? I think acetone or painting too?

I have tried this before but my print kept sucking up the acrylic to the inside of the part and then it would come out random places

I don't think you'll have to get rid of the sliprings for USB. They do make USB sliprings. Just a quick search brought up some stuff. Now how much those will cost is a different matter.

Your audio is extremely quiet

running ffmpeg on a Pi zero to compress into mpeg2ts over normal wifi is about the worst possible way of doing this... go look at OpenHD (or other forks of wifibroadcast) it uses x264 for which the Pis have hardware acceleration and it hacks wifi to not care about transmission errors or if the receiving side is present at all

Instead of Acetone you can use ethyl acetate, less cancer-causing…

Have you considered model paint? It’s enamel.

My brother used nail polish on models back in the day never considered on my 3D prints and your exaquation is awesome

I use resin from a resin 3-D printer in whatever colour you want, and I just use a syringe like you are using and then use a UV light to cure

Very well edited video! Keep up the great work bro. You deserve many more views and subscribers.

cool!

I just brush over the whole text with the brush that comes with the nail polish, let it dry, then clean the surface with an acetone soaked paper towel. Only the polish that went in the lettering remains; anything on the surface gets removed.