Lugsni I reckon the knuckle head sizes are the same. My ELT has a heavier duty worm gear - beefed up , but the gearing is the same. It also sits further off the machine , so needs a deeper flange mount at the back. The dog which goes into the column spindle also varies. The good news is you can shim out the flange , and adapt the dog to suit. The basic engineering is the same within reason . I had a right faff getting the slotting head to fit, same drive principle , but again the flange adapter did not fit. Persevere and you will win Shed guy

Noel You are dead right . Total faff on. For regular steel and normal stuff I wouldn't bother. BUT I recently had to drill a pile of holes into stainless. My regular jobbers got hot - the metal goes hard - total pain. My split point drills however coasted through it. So I made a set of bushes in half mm sizes from 6mm up . Turns out having different point grinds for odd jobs and materials can come in. I turn to this drills when others fail - because as you say it is tiresome Shed guy

hi epkid I have messed up buying belts plenty times, but its not expensive. I am running a Dunlop Z-40 10 x 1016 LI 33975 Hopefully put that into google and you will get somewheres. Whenever putting that back belt on I have a picture of how it goes - that's quite easy to get in a pickle with also All the best Shed guy

Cheers for that Mr Cod I is high end kit indeed, if looks after, not abused , and as god intended - then they are a treat. Sounds like you have a snorter Shed guy

Thanks Noel Yep that makes sense. I have not gone for the mister so as not to make grinding paste, and not get rust problems ..... but I will brush water onto the drill if is looks like getting toastie Shed guy

Hi there the cam shapes and dimensions are complex and in 3D , so a simple drawing with measurements will not get you going - and actually frustrate you . The best bet is track someone local yo you and take a direct impression of a cam to make a pattern. Try local model engineers groups etc All the best Shed guy

Hi there sorry for slow reply. There is a boggling amount of information on grinding stones - it is beyond me. But buy quality, make sure it rings with a clear note when you tap it, and balance it carefully. My wheels are mounted on the 1" wheel hubs. I do the main dresing with diamond points and use a Norton NORBIDE dressing stick to fine tune angles - amazing For heavy grinding on a nobbled drill I use my pedestal grinder to rough it in - I am not rough grinding on the Brierley. I like Norton stones ,because they are always good. The point grind wheel is a 7" x 1" x 1" aluminium oxide (prefer white) they ship with 46 - 100 grit , I went 100 grit for the fine finish. This is also good for point splitting and smaller drills. If you grind smaller drills go for a 6" diameter wheel. the point thinning wheel is a 6 1/2" x 3/4" x 1" mine is green and also I have green black - so probably silicon carbide. Happy grinding

yep another battle I probably didn't need to fight

the footage of success was interspersed with fails - the long nose pliers and slide technique being one - springs too strong of my hands. the jaws however definitely have to come out to get that ring off. the real fun is on the collets for smaller diameters where it is way more tricksy to get the jaws both out, ant back in Shed guy

Deebo seems an odd answer, but I think the chuck is called the autolock model B, and for some reason resellers call the collet with the two prongs an autolock type c . getting the correct collet to fit the holder and the cutter can be a faff on - but is worthwhile in the end. everything I have is right up in the links All the best Shed guy

First off check the rating plate on your motor. It will give a choice of operating voltages , mine is not stamped with 120v. There may be a wiring map for the motor in the junction box where the cable gets to the motor. After that it is time to go to university of you tube Shed man

First look at the data plate this will tell you what the motor is designed for, check voltage, if only 220v it should be single phase, 0r 415v and 220v if both are shown then it will be 3Ph and can be wired star or delta . 120v, are you in the USA ? If you only have single phase then the easiest way is with an inverter, now it's time to check with a local electrician, as it starts to be complicated. Good luck.

@@NoelShelley Noel has covered that nicely - much appreciated Good man It is worth finding out about how you can run different voltages and different phases - that way you are not restricted when you buy machines , and can buy the less popular rated machines for better prices. Shed guy

I had the same issue and it was the little jumper loop that was the key for my light. Stick to wiring the ports according to the markings on the fitting. I made sure that things were as I wanted them to be on the workbench BEFORE final mounting . They do make it tricky Shed guy

Yep it did the trick. I can also use a 5c collet in the spindle nose to hold a piece of stock as a stop - that works pretty good shed guy

Del I have uploaded a parts diagram up in the description section. Name the part and I will measure ..... only I am about to go on holiday so it may take time The download is worth a look at least Shed guy

cheers rusty like your channel ....... looks like you are a shed warrior fighting the same battles. I gave in on biking as I won't bounce down the road so well these days ...... good fun though Shed guy

cheers stuart loving your shed ... looks like home from home .... only better

Very.

It can sharpen 4 flute tap and core drills with the correct cam - no mention of end mills. So I guess not If anyone knows better please comment. All the best Shed guy

cheers for that there's more to come ... believe me

hunt around used machinery dealers ...... you come across stuff when you least expect it good luck

The full set of cams is 7 right hand and 7 left hand, you seldom see a full set. I think you can get them from Chester machine tools but they were about £100 each. Good luck.

Yep good point little dodges make all the difference

right ...... so the moral there is watch the cutters for wear cheers

That's if you can get it. Tricky to source here in the UK , and premium prices too. Having said that the stuff I am using can have voids and inclusions which are a pain all best

wowsa fantastic. did you stay the course ... or move on to other things. Always interested in how things were back in the day shed guy

Narp but I took the cover off and had a look ... then regreased from that direction. its another order of magnitude to strip the bearing out as you then remove the shaft , and the rear bearing ..;l;;;; honestly this shaft is not rotating too fast so no big worry. Probably go there when the belt fails ... although a linked belt seems like a good option. shed guy

Cheers Adam Yep these are cracking machines. This design works a treat . If it had an MT2 taper it would not have left me ...... having said that I do miss it. Shed guy