@@dccrop1635 thanks!

@@grangercreek they are nice not sure on brand. I’ll send you the contact!

@@stevensaxon8888 Idaho

@@georgeheller2281 we are adding animals back. We also see huge amounts of nutrients leaving the farm in production ag. So I take soil tests and determine availability and amounts to balance soil for good crop production and soil improvement efficiency.

@@markhasenour12 yes thank you for your contribution. I’m pretty sure you know what the idea of the comment was

@@brentbettger4734 we make sure to have available calcium, available phosphorus, carbon, and oxygen available. Yields are competitive with neighboring farms and are improving consistently. We will use one cultivation pass on row crops.

Great just watch your salt levels!

@@arnoldjohnson3317 5lbs per acre is a good place to start

@ that’s about $10 an acre, I try that on 20 acres of class III creek bottom soils and 40 acres of shallow sandy class V soils this spring and see what happens.

@ if you buy in bulk you should be able to get it for about $1 per pound

@@arnoldjohnson3317 aeration with the sugar is a good way to start

@@americanbeefranch thanks.

@@ryecarlson7867 yes use not rely on as the only source

​@@americanbeefranch ryecarlson is spot on. Have you contacted Keith yet?

@ guys really do you not watch the video. Everything I do it to give biology a better chance to do the job natural intends. I just don’t like jugs in a bugs or focusing on biology when the soil is not fit for them to live.

@@americanbeefranch Sure did. And I'm trying to get through to you that you don't understand how soil function works, nor do you know how to build it. Did you watch the vid of Di and Ian Haggerty? Have you called Keith Burns at Green Cover Seed? Yes bug in in a jug is crap. Make your own for next to nothing, and it will have the key functional groups and many thousands of species within it. A J-Su, or a vermicompost takes 6-12 months to mature, start now, and it will be ready for an Autumn or Spring application. Ditch the chemistry mindset, it hinders biology. The nutrients you need are in the geology you walk on.

@@americanbeefranch Yes I did. And you have no idea about soil function, nor how to build it. Yes, don't waste your time and money on bug in a jug. Make your own J-Su, or vermicompost. It takes 6-12 months to mature, if you start now you can begin applying when it is ready, via seed innocculation as an extract. Have you watched the Di and Ian Haggerty Vid? 20,000 Ha in the desert wheatbelt of West Oz. Have you contacted Keith burns? He has a plethora of experience in soil building, stop wasting your attention on salt fertilisers, they inhibit soil biology. The nutrients are in the geology you walk on.

@@666bruv well we were talking about the cow. If I was able too I would have had a cover crop but it wasn’t financially feasible

@americanbeefranch so seed is more expensive, per hectare, than fertiliser in america? Have a chat to keith at green cover seed, if he can't change one of your belief systems, no one can

@ It’s not about using or not using. I would if I had the money. Right now I don’t so I can buy seed

@americanbeefranch have a chat with keith, anyhow, he is very switched on, and he is a man of god, so you should be able to trust him

@@666bruv and unbalanced base saturation

@americanbeefranch raise your carbon levels up to a minmum of 5%, maintane that for 3 years and see how go with the base saturation. You will never gain nirvana by just adding salts, you will be forever needing to adjust an element. And you will never achieve soil function with that approach

@ you can balance it without salt and definitely need more carbon as well

@americanbeefranch have a geezer at the J-Su bioreactor. It's becoming popular amongst the global farming community. You have a gagantuan amount of useful material in that field

@ I know all about Johnson su. The problem I have is that if the biology has no house or food why would we put it out there to die? Is mineral imbalances can be corrected why no do that first? Our soil is already teaming with dormant biology why not give them the opportunity to do their job? Johnson su is great but I want to give the bugs a chance to thrive before I just throw more bugs out there.

@@Pigpen1202 oh come on it’s a classic

Dolomite lime or magnesium sulfate. What’s the sulphur levels?

Sulphur is 12 ppm.

@@vladimirceman5446 you need sulphur and mag. Magnesium sulfate would work. Just need to watch the sodium levels. You could also see what you local fertilizer dealer and whip up if you if it is commercial not organic

@@robertlivingston1634 that will definitely help

@@arnoldjohnson3317 a lot of our retailers prefer the more square packaging for bagging and transport.

@@robertgolden4327 solid I guess I should have said

@@ryecarlson7867 well usually that’s a better bet. Mag doesn’t like to move at all unless the other cations are perfect. I suppose I should have made it more clear

@@americanbeefranch Can make the base saturation hard to balance if mag is super hi and refuses to go down. My mag and cal make up over 90% of base sat not sure how to correct that effectively

@ what is the mag number? In the 20s?

Also what’s your sulphur look like?

@americanbeefranch 21-26 mag. Sulphur is wide ranging from 9 - 38ppm. Been applying organiCal 3-400lbs and acre a year

I finally found the problem and corrected it while editing. Going to go through my equipment and figure out what’s causing it

@@americanbeefranch Good to hear. I think it was only a couple videos. I know I have heard other KZbinrs talk about windows updates messing up their sound recording settings.

@ I think it’s the mic of camera but unsure. To be honest I’m not very well versed in the editing department

@@americanbeefranch Yeah I know nothing about it myself, other than what other KZbinrs have talked about. Im a computer hardware "some programming as well" guy

@@ShaneForsyth-d3f if you have high mag then calcium carbonate (lime) is a good choice. There is one calcium that is completely separated from everything else and can be applied in many ways but it’s more of a soil inoculant.

@@lylemccrory4070 you are definitely right. They don’t seem to like the ones I made very much

No it needs more!!!

@americanbeefranch 😂 love it. I tried it and it was great.

@@calusolv5235 oh trust me lots to come!

Still people are recommending put tons of dry nutrients

@@dralord1307 hmm interesting

It’s does seem a little quiet. I’ll look into it

@@g-man7938 maybe a little. They like the cover thou

@@Ifyouarehurtnointentwasapplied trust me we are definitely in the same mind frame as them. Watch the next few videos this week and see!

@@jmfarms3555 exactly. You must have yield with reasonable financial expenditures.

@@arnoldjohnson3317 for other brands of commercial eggs yes

@@dralord1307 that’s and interesting concept! Maybe I could try a few videos and see how they stick!

@@dralord1307 any pointers you can think of put them in the comments!

@@americanbeefranch Uhm, maybe a good place to start is Daggerwin's "Survival Roleplay - Farming Simulator, playlist. For an example of a roleplay that really drew in people. For you I would suggest making a playlist. 1st episode having it be the history of your farm. Mentioning the "money issue" at the end. Second Vid: have it go over the origin of the money issue. The varmints, the dirt work, etc etc. A good recap of say the first year. The next episode a good recap of your next year, leading upto current times. Make sure to show any field work/animal work you have footage of. Go over your current equipment, and the issues it has. Remember it is the "drama" that draws people in. So if you can provide problem , drama, and then work toward solution. That is the golden rule to keep people coming back. Think of old Startrek TNG. It is the exact formula you want. Start with the problem. have some drama, then find a solution. SO IE: Your chicken coop upgrade was a great example of how to do it. You tell the problem, and the drama. "Because I lost the chickens it set me back blah blah. Here is what Im gonna do next. Then the repair/upgrade part of the chicken coop. Then of course you need to remind ppl to like and subscribe "preferably 1/2 through the video" at a good moment. Asking ppl to like sub makes a HUGE difference verses not asking. A lot of ppl just forget when they are watching the video. And ask ppl for their suggestions. "Like you did about the chicken coop" You NEED comment engagement to help boost your YT videos. The more ppl comment the more YT thinks ppl like the video, no matter what the comment is. As for "advertising" Like I mentioned. There are TONS of groups on facebook for Farming Simulator 22/25. The ppl that play these games are the same ones that watch farming vids on YT. So join some of the biggest groups. When you post a vid on YT make a post about it on Facebook. Dont be afraid to play up the drama. Drama sells.

@@markhasenour12 nope farmers are there own best allies. I also know most farmers have soil and crop health people/ salesman they trust and use.

Yes

@@markhasenour12 so are you familiar with mulder chart?

@@georgeheller2281 red angus or Murray grey

@americanbeefranch I am currently developing northern adapted southpoll cattle to thrive in northern climates. They are super low input, docile, very efficient on grass only. Last May we sold what we believe to be the first southpoll bull into Canada. We also have some British white we are crossing with southpoll.

@americanbeefranch can the Murray grey grow a good hair coat?

@@georgeheller2281 Murray grey is highly underrated in almost every aspect in my opinion. They do well in almost any climate

@americanbeefranch the only ones I've seen were so slick, in the summer, and didn't really grow much hair in winter

They can be that way. Especially if you mix them way too much. I am rally careful to not do this but it does happen.

@@robertensign8786 cows aren’t mine. They lease pastures from us is all.

@@samuelbonacorsi2048 thistles indicate soil problems. Compaction and low availability of calcium in the top few inches of soil.

@ I know, but soil tests came back good. pH was 6.8 and all secondary nutrient levels were well within the normal range. I tried everything. I thought I was going to out smart the damn stuff by mowing it so I bought a $15,000 swing arm mower so I could get close to the trees. Every time I mowed the thistle came back even thicker and more lush. Your approach seems to be working for row crops, good luck.

@ I bet your test showed good calcium. The problem is calcium is a heavy mineral and falls down through the soil profile. Soil tests are generally from 0-6 inches. However most of the calcium is usually located in the bottom 3 inches not the top 3 where seeds germinate. Pests don’t like like available calcium, available phosphorus, carbon or oxygen. Did you take a carbon to nitrogen ratio test? Did you check the level of compaction in the soil? Did you apply available calcium to the top of the soil and let it wash in with precipitation to give the soil structure and let the biology go to work? It works for more than just row crops.

@@americanbeefranch Thistles will grow better in good soils, just like crops do. Even better in soils with balanced PH. You should have taken an agronomy class in college. Weeds thrive in better soils and often outcompete the crops. Thats why we need effective herbicides.

@ there is far more to good soil than balanced ph

@@steveningrahm8928 green chopping corn chops most of the plant. Not stalks were removed. I never said the ground was no till. I said it needs to be reduced. The ground was very compacted so a tillage pass was made before planting to loosen the soil. Once planted we made 1 cultivation pass. The weed pressure is less because the soil condition is better than others in the area. No herbicide or pesticide of any kind was used

@@americanbeefranch Don't try to gaslight me. I've been farming, raising corn, soybeans and cattle in the Midwestern corn belt for over 40 years. I know what a harvested corn field looks like. 80% to 90% of the plants have been removed from that field. Only a few inches of the lower corn stalk remains. You have removed almost all of the stalks and dry organic matter from the field. By baling or green chopping most of the Potash and Phosphate nutrients taken up by the corn plants have been removed. That adds up to a bit over four and one half pounds Phosphorus and over 30 pounds Potassium per ton of corn stalks removed. According to Iowa State, each acre of a corn field produces one ton of dry stalks for each 40 bushels of corn produced.

@ I know that. I would never bale corn stalks. The corn was chopped for silage. Therefore you take the majority of the plant. That’s how dairies do it… it wasn’t thrashed for grain.

@@americanbeefranch Makes no difference. Either way, the nutrients were removed. Back in the day, farmers would avoid buying or renting a farm that was farmed by a dairyman, because they green chop everything for silage and deplete the soil.

@@steveningrahm8928 ok? Does that mean you don’t put anything back? I choose corn silage because that was what was needed and I needed to rotate out of hay. My ground is better now then it was when I started