This comment is annoying, stick to the topic.

Hi it's not a lot of detail, but sounds reasonable. Good luck.

This is a 2005. I would start w/ making sure your intake manifold gaskets are in great shape. Then test it after that. Going all the way to the oil fill gasket is where the big work is, and you may save time & solve w/ just the manifold gasket. Good luck

Put plenty of tinfoil to protect from the torch. I recommend several layers.

@@IFish4Tuna Thank You Sir, I appreciate it

I know I’m late to the party, but to clean the jet holes you all are speaking of, I have a back that almost everyone has. Take your bread twisty tie and remove the paper on it. It will become a very small wire that will clean the jet holes in both needles. Hope this helps someone. Be safe!

use a fucking light switch

@@IFish4Tuna can you recommend any reliable parts sales ? Preferably online and reasonably priced ? Thanks

@@IFish4Tuna no water in oil. / just a small oil leak around the gasket. Letting oil leak out to the exterior of engine. And it collects in the bottom of the engine cowling ( or housing). Eventually leaking out a weep hole in the bottom

@@IFish4Tuna it appears I will have to remove oil pan to replace this gasket. Which is much more involved than removing an oil pan from a car. Lol. Hoping to find a video of this. But surprisingly there are no videos on the honda 5 hp ( BF50S)

@@IFish4Tuna I actually decided to just order a new “performance” carburetor. So it’s gonna be cool.

He wouldn't

Probably a Head gasket failure between water cooling jacket and oil passage.

@@IFish4Tuna damn I had to rush order 2 new wheel cylinders because it's bleeding brake fluid all over my driveway due to that shit bleeder

@@IFish4Tuna oh, yeah my problem is it’s a deep well smaller than a pencil and it’s microscopic and I’m afraid to try to purchase multiple precision nutdrivers with extremely thin walls hoping to get the right size because general electric Will not divulge the exact tool for extracting it and less I have a certified repair account. I had to replace one of the little aluminum pipes which was caked with a white film, but another one is still clicking and that could be the problem but I can’t take the chance because it must be repaired so if it’s not the white film build up I still have to get the orifice out of the deep well and it looks like 4 mm and I’ll need a paper thin wall and even the watchmakers and high end nutdrivers don’t look like they will yield success because these things are really stuck in there and even if I were to get lucky enough to get something that would turn it I think it would just break the tool as I would have to put a microscopic pipe wrench on the micro scopic nut driver so I’m reaching a peak of frustration That seems to be in measurable.

@@IFish4Tuna I wish I could show you the pic, the simmer orifice is in a deep well you could barely fit a pencil in and deep down is the micro simmer orifice. I’m using and “answer anything “ online service, scouring every inch of every search engine and battling GE over the phone daily and cannot get the simple answer to the simple question “what exact size and brand or style, what exact nut driver do I need to extract the micro simmer orifice out”? I need this information badly and presently, I’ve spent 50 plus hours skimming vids, making phone calls, arguing with venders, no luck whatsoever. It’s crazy. There are watch maker nut drivers and so called precision nut drivers but the don’t look strong enough to withstand the vice grip or tiny pipe wrench I would need due to diissimilar metal bonding, like the way the main tubes get stuck in units that are 15 years old plus I don’t want to spend a pile of money and get a pile of nut drivers to hopefully get the one I need and have to grind the o.d. down to fit in the deep hole a pencils can’t fit in. I’m loosing it and I need to do this job badly, I have to stop the clicking for a customer who can get jobs for me and if the switch harnes doesn’t work I don’t know what to do because my boss already put in a new spark module and I was able to get a guitar string to poke through the orifice hole and it lights But clicks every now and then. Also I found out by working on them when you unscrew the aluminum tube that feeds it sometimes there’s a white crust that has it sealed shut so even if you clean the orifice it’s still plugged so essentially I’m taking it apart removing the dust that’s jammed in the end cleaning the orifice and it has a new spark module and I’m going to put a new switch which of course you have to buy the whole harness and replace all the switches and with the age of the unit if I can stop this one from sparking in a short period of time the other burners will succumb to the same problem and fortunately I was able to clean them out with the guitar strings and tip cleaners and alcohol but it actually needs an authentic servicing which means getting the proper tool and simply removing all of the orifice and replacing them it cost over $130 to get six of them and they only sell six packs of the orifice for simmer and the plain orifice and some of the units have half of each so then you have to buy $300 worth of orifices just to service one unit and this is a big opportunity and I can’t play games but I can’t get a straight answer from anybody in GE wants you to have a repair man‘s account and things like that are just happening left and right and I cannot get a simple answer to a simple question,So I guess it’s not so simple

@@IFish4Tuna Thanks, I finally got them off. I used some WD-40 and a flathead screwdriver.

@@IFish4Tuna ppl uh

​@@IFish4Tuna haha just like driving a honda civic

IFish4Tuna thanks a lot. DCS told me to order a wiha 4mm. I did but it doesn’t fit thru the hike above the orifice. So maybe I just need to make it fit :). Thanks again