I've got a roof leak in my 2012 xc60 too. I parked in on a decline (facing downhill) after some rain and it started coming down the inside of the windscreen. I'll take your advice and inspect under the roof rails

Good luck! Hope it worked out for you?

No, it's because it was a near miss hit off the toe - the problem is at that speed - if you don't hit near dead center you lose a good 25% of the ball speed... So a dead center hit would be about 1.5 smash - sometimes with a really "hot" driver head you can get up to about 1.6 smash - but the math works as 1.5 x 155 would be 228 ball speed, but as you go farther from the center the smash goes lower and lower - you can't quite see the number, but it's roughly 1.011 smash - it only went about 300 yards.

@ryanjensen8227 Here's a clip from the 2014 World Long Drive Semi - Finals... you have Critter vs Hangman... Hangman is the favorite to win, he's got a much faster club speed, but misses 5/6 balls - since he has higher launch and spin Critter wins by 1 yard - Hangman is swinging about 10mph faster than him - the 5 balls he missed were so off center they only went about 320-340 and all but one ball stayed in the grid. I actually use a heavier club for competition, I'm going for the straight penetrating flight like Critter - in a perfect world I want to get 20-40 yards of roll pending on grid conditions. Now I will say if it was a wet grid Critter probably would have lost that, if there was wind behind them he also probably would have lost because Hangman had a much higher ball flight. It's a bit of luck of the draw as well as knowing how to hit the ball low with roll as well as high if you need to. Thanks for your comment though. kzbin.info/www/bejne/q2bJlqyXYrCXbJI

Not nearly as far as it ought to haha

Roughly 300 yards lol - so way too much wasted effort for that distance... I had one at 157 club speed today - 1.09 smash - it went 317 yards - ball speed was 172 on that one because it was a much closer to center hit - I'm using a 4.5 degree driver head so I get spin as low as 500rpms on miss hits - the sweet spot is really 2000 - 2250 back spin - much more back spin than that the ball will fly too high and "arc" and then drop out of the sky like a stone around 340-350 yards. If you are wondering, I am using a XX flex driver @ 47" long. Roughly 270 cpms. This is the "dark" side of speed training... it gets to a point where you need to dial it back down for control, then go fast again and keep that over and over till your holding your numbers at the higher speed, it's a bit of a grind. I'm hitting about 15-20 hours per week + doing stuff in the gym.

Not at all lol, I just though I don't see anyone showing their speed miss hits, I think it confuses a lot of ppl trying to get faster - thinking they have to have a perfect shot every time... but this is what it really looks like. If I remeber correctly it was right around 300 yards maybe 270ish. You could call it a "max effort" miss hit.

My repair lasted for at least 2 years - I sold the car after tthat, but If you cleaned any rust away and preped the area well it should hold for years - though you might have a leak from two spots - or the stuff you used might not have been "good" quality - I noticed they've started to sell stuff specifically for this in automotive shops now. I don't know I could help you much more without be able to see the car myself? Which stuff did you use?

Yeah, it wasn't mine either - I was pretty sure it wasn't since i don't think I opened it more than one time in 5 years lol... I wish more cars came without them - I always hated them.

Thanks!

Hey Jude - I thought it was pretty self explanitory - granted I grew up fixing stuff and learning how to paint and what not - there really is nothing too the sealer though - you just put it over the crack and them put the top piece right over it - if you put on too much you just wipe it off with damp a paper towel before it dries - if you got way too much you might want to wear some plastic gloves...don't really want to get this stuff on your hands since it's pretty messy and hard to get off. In most cases, it should just easily wipe off and not discolor your cars paint - you are best off using as little as you need. I'll keep this in mind for any future videos - thanks for your commnet - I can try and help more if you have any more questions - David

Yeah water can be difficult - sometimes just moving it can change the path of flow and create a leak. You might also have a pin hole crack in the weld joint you can't see and when you moved the stirp water was then able to run across the hole... a little caulking should do the trick. I suppose it depends on how long you are going to keep the car, but what I did with mine was caulk it, put the weather strip in place and then put the top part on top of that so the caulking was then coming out the sides - it stopped the leak, but it clogged the "drain" - where the weather strip is on the roof of you car acts like a gutter on each side and it helps keep more water off the windsheild - on a heavy rain it was harder to see - I didn't realize that until after it was caulked in place. I sealed my windsheild with chemical guys jet seal and it wasn't a visibility problem for me, but be aware of that if you are going to seal it all the way.

Hope it fixes it for you

and I appreciate your comment :)

@Nostradamus - water is weird and it's really hard to figure out where it is coming in from sometimes - the best I can do is this: In my thumbnail image there are three green arrows pointing at the rail joint - I'm going to call them the left, middle, and right arrow. The arrow furthest to the right is the exact spot I was having water come in from - it was near the bottom of that seam - and it spread to the left - towards the windsheild as the roof got more saturated. So if it is coming in from the windsheild - I would think it would be the opposite since water always takes the path of least resistance - as in it would be spreading from the corner of the windsheild out - not from the inside towards the windsheild. It might be hard to tell this after a rain - but you could spray it with the hose or even run your windsheild wipers while your driving on the highway and see if it's starting to get damp closer to the windsheild by the time you get home. If it's only showing up after a rain then it's probably the top rail. Since you said you have a Toyotal Matrix - if you have the roof rack rails - I'd guess it is coming in from there - they will all leak overtime, it's just enevitable from the driving vibration and unless the guy who put the roof rack on really water prooofed it - your probably always going to have some issues there once you hit say 80,000 miles or more. It's just the nature of the beast - those screws will all loosen and leak given enought time. I hope this helps - let me know if you find out where it was leaking, I'm curious - I see a lot of ppl being told they need to re-seal their windsheild but it seems like that never solves the issue - I suppose it could be both issues at the same time as well if the car is old enough.

It's because it used to be all silicon sealers were previously acid cure - they would eat through aluminum - if it says on the label it's safe for metal and aluminum then it's safe to use - I just feel like the silicone holds up better overtime - if I'm not mistaken it's now the most common gutter and window caulking - which means it's for sure safe for aluminum and doesn't corrode it. The good news is - there are plenty of other options and you can use which ever one you like. If you are caulking the front of your windshield I do believe there is a very specific stuff just for that but for sealing the weatherstrip there are quite a few options.

I'm not sure what that means?

probably ask someone at a local auto shop - there are lots of different products - they should all be about the same - you want a water proof caulking - they sell stuff for fish tanks which could also work well - I'd love to say buy this specific thing, but there are so many options now idk what will be at a store near you. The only thing you want to make sure is that it will bond to aluminum with out corroding - a lot of the older silicon stuff had an acidic base and it could eat through the car frame, most of it now is safe, though you will want to make sure the lable says for use on aluminum and metal. Stuff for gutters or windows could work as well. Most guys at any local auto shop will tell you the proper stuff to get. I hope this helps?

and thank you for your comment :)

Glad you liked it!

and no water staining on headliner/doors etc ??? nothing in trunk suspect running down column? hope to know shortly

Hey Kathleen - my younger sister had one of those, she actually kept it until this year it lasted her a long time with no issues - She had to replace the weather strip on the passenger side and maybe the window as well - if I remember correctly the TL has on the runs from the hood all the way up the roof in-between the window and the frame of the car - I'm 99% sure that's what it was for her car - I think this is what you are calling the "silver trim" - if I remember correctly it is either a weather strip or covering a weather strip. I would suspect it's a common issue with that car as they get older, I think my sister had around 160,000 miles and it was still running fine, she just wanted an suv because she could see better. Hopefully this helps - I would say there's a 99% chance it's that weather strip or possibly the windshield if there is no issue with the sun roof and no staining/wet spots on the roof - and maybe 1% chance some really odd freak thing I've never seen or heard of.

@@DavidParas VERY much appreciate this info . Yesterday water intrusion pro removed passenger seat, found large amt of water sitting under carpet. pulled back all passenger carpet (threw out padding as it was beyond saturated). drying out carpet and will replace w/ satisfactory pad later. Have bare bones passenger side now exposed. 3 hrs shower testing yesterday - NOTHING. Im doing more at home -- nothing. perhaps he knocked something loose out of a/c drain when removed? but I noticed that smell after rain so doubt it was a/c word on forum was that silver trim peice along top and gasket was purely cosmetic - not to keep h20 out. baffled. will update as resolved. it's a true puzzle.

@@Myagentkathleen the only other thing that could make sense would possibly be the rubber weather strip on the inside of the door - that black molding stuff that seals around the edge of the actual door - it sounds like your having a lot of water come in, so if it's not from the roof it could possibly be the door - I'd say after about 5-10 years pending on driving conditions and temperature the weather strips start to wear out - or at least the adhesive that holds them in place starts to break down. I'd guess that's probably where it's coming in if it's not the roof, weather strip, sun roof, or windshield - it's really the only other possibility unless you've got a hole in the bottom of your car. Either way, good luck - if you do find where the water is coming in from let me know, in case someone else has a similar leak :)

Glad I could help!

Hey Sarah, I'm really not to familar with that car - but if it has a sun roof, it could possibly be leaking from there - typically you do NOT want to seal around the windsheild because it will block the built in grooves for the water to drain of your roof and it could make it hard to replace your windsheild if you ever needed to do that... If the water is more towards the center of the roof not the edge, it's probably the sun roof, but it's a much more complcated fix as you have to take the sun roof apart and it's really specific for each individual car - they are also really easy to break. The only other thing I'd say, could it be possbile that you didn't seal every part of the weather strip - for example if you didn't remove it all the way and check for holes / rust - and just sealed over the top of the weather strip then water could probably still get in from the ends... I hope this helps?

@@DavidParas I don't have a sun roof, and the weather strip isn't even in the car. There's no weather strip right now. I just shoved a whole bunch of caulking in, sealing up anywhere the water could get in.

@@SarahPoulin Ahh ok, so if there is no weather strip at all - I don't think caulking by itself is sufficent to prevent windsheer from pushing the rain in - do you have someone who can maybe help you with this / double check the caulking is bonded to the metal and not loose anywhere? I suggesting that becuase I know from working on some landscaping ponds, you have have leaks really far away from where the water is coming in, it's mind blowing how far it can travel sometimes, and this isn't an easy thing to trouble shoot if you don't have a lot of expierence with it. I'd think that somewhere the seal must not be complete - it could even be a little pin hole somewhere and it looks like the whole thing is sealed, and I hate to say but at that point the best thing to do is probably take it all of and restart from scratch. ^^ I'd really ask someone or maybe go to a place like pep boys and ask them for a quote on the cheapest way to fix the leak - at least at my local shop they will say something like you can buy the part for $500 or so or you can just do this, this, and this for $50 and save some money. If there is no weather strip at all, I'd say you'd at least need some type of cover over the seal just to prevent the suns rays from breaking down the sealer - I really don't know if they make anything which can last high wind speed (from normal driving even at 25mph) as well as sun, snow, rain, etc... The only possible thing would maybe be roof sealer for a house, but a lot of those are not made for aluminum and are acid based - they can eat a hole in your roof when they cure. There really isn't a quick fix for this one when the car is a bit older, because all of them will have some rust or little cracks and unless you really know what you are looking for it's hard to find the issue. I really don't know if I can help you much more than this, but I'll do my best if you have any more questions - I'd really have to take a look at it in person to say exactly what the problem is - I can say my younger sister had a similar problem and her weather strip started to come off and she needed to get a new one and that fixed it - but you have a leak or tiny crack or rivot pop at the seem where the roof connects to the frame replacing the weather strip alone will not do the trick it needs to be sanded, painted, sealed, then put the weather strip on to protect the seal.

@@DavidParas thanks!

@@SarahPoulin no problem, I hope this at least helps you in some way - it's just not a easy problem to diagnose if sealing everything didn't work the first time - feel free to ask anymore questions - If it's out of my ability to answer I'll say so - the only other thing I could think of that could possibly work with out putting a new weather strip on would be sometype of marine or boat coating/ sealer - but I don't know if it would at all be cost effective and that kind of stuff is typically really nasty smelling, hard to work with, sets really quickly, and really really hard to get off if you make a mistake - I mean for all I know it could ruin your windsheild so it's probably best to try somewhere like pepboys. You can go here to see what the repair should cost on average for your make and model of car I use this a lot repairpal.com/ These guys have some really great how to videos if you needed to do any other repairs/mantience on your car. kzbin.info www.carcarekiosk.com/videos/Toyota/Corolla/2007

That was the exact problem I had, everyone said check the sun roof, but the sun roof wasn't leaking... it must be a brand thing for certain brands that the sunroof leaks on all of the becuase of a poor design, I've have several cars over 100k miles and I've never had a sun roof leak, come to think of it neither have either of my parents, and they've had way more cars than me... my dad has a toyota over with 150k miles on it... no sun roof issue... Though I will say I rarely even open mine, I really hate them and I'd prefer a car without one, but almost every car has them no a days.

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks Dave, I appreciate it. I'm glad it helped you :)

No I am not, nor do I claim to be - I just had a bit of body work experience from when someone wrecked into my car and painting guitars... When it comes to any of the mechanical stuff I really do not know much or claim to know - any particular reason you ask?