Sa ngayon wla vacant...

Thanks...yahh that's what Awlbrite does when you have enough depth ..I love it! Hand sanding it with a good size sanding block is the way I Iike it..I use machine to every now and then.

If I would start from bare wood I would use the Awlspar or the Single part high gloss Epifanes not the PP EXTRA..for a capping rail do not use PP EXTRA, it doesn't flex.. Awlbrite is not for building up your layers, build up you layers until you are satisfied then top it with at least 3 coats of Awlbrite.

@@leoncaputolan Once again Leon Thank you So Much !! so you think it is better to build up layers using 1 component varnish and then use a 2-part component varnish for the top coat .. Am I reading you well? is that because Awlbrite has better UV protection compared to 1-component varnish like Epifanes clear or Awlspar? I have two projects. One, and the most important, is the toe-rail (same as your cap-rail). I was told it was applied 7 layers of varnish .. maybe Epifanes, i dont know. I see the varnish is flaking in areas where water gets in , e.g. around the joints where there is caulking .. but also in others areas is getting like yellowish .. what I am doing now is just treating those areas so that it does not deteriorate further .. however I am thinking of applying several layers of varnish to the whole toe-rail rather than in patches .. And I am looking for the best way to do it .. I was shocked to listen to you explaining that epifanes goes off quickly and that is why you moved to Awlbrite and you apply a coat every year .. i dont mind doing that at all if I keep the toerail shiny .. The second project is the outboard engine teak board where I keep the outboard engine. The varnish had small holes where water went thru and flakes here and there. I am currently sanding it all the way to bare wood with 60 grit paper .. i am not done yet. From what you are saying I should build 7 or so layers with Awlspar or Epifanes and then do the last 4 with Awlgripe ... ? .. have you tried the new epifanes two-component varnish? not the PP extra ..

@@LaFortunaHR36 yes that's correct it is better to use the single part varnish as your build up then the Awlbrite for much better and durable finish,if your toe rail is going yellowish and there a few damage area maybe you should look of completely stripping it all back to bare wood rather than patch repair it..it should be worth it in the long run...it will initially cost time and money but the long term saving will be worth it ..

@@leoncaputolan Thank you for your advice !! greatly appreciated it

btw, I am looking for Awlbrite and I can only find shops which sell cans of 3 litres .. I have noticed with epifanes that it solidifies very quickly once I open the can... Epifanes recommended to pour the can into small bags that you seal off ... how do you deal with this issue where the varnish goes off? i guess you dont have such a problem because you use a lot very often...

Actually I never used stoppani before,..I only heard about it from my friends on the industry but never used it..

Just go for it mate...you can do it😉😉...you have to start, it's a learning process,it's easy the more you do it🤟

You're welcome 🤗

You're welcome..

😁😁

Hi..I am glad that it helped. About awlwood I actually never used it yet...maybe I should give it a try, lots of the guys in the industry that I know uses this awlwood system.

Thanks mate.

I am glad that this helps..the red tape is a fine line tape, they come in various color and size..

Thanks you..

Thanks mate..

Thanks as always..

True..👍👍

Hey Leon - looks threatening -- hope all is okay.

He is indeed...

Thanks a lot..

I'm sure he will enjoy his retirement 😊

I am glad mate ..good luck with your next roll and tip project...cheers👍👍

Thank you 👍👍

Thanks for the recommendation..I will keep an eye on that particular brand and give it a try...

I was just experimenting this one..me myself doesn't really like putting oil too on the deck, there will be a lot of maintenance...I will see if this is sustainable,then maybe do the whole boat hehe.

Hello mate...if the teak is very weathered you will going to have to sand it aggressively you will need to sand it down well until you get rid of all the weathed greyish part of the teak,start getting off the old coating if it has...then start sanding it with 80 grit sandpaper then 150 the 220 grit before your buildup coat..this varnish I am using on this video is only to be used as top coat..do not use this varnish on bare wood because it will not work...the varnish you can use to build up is called AWSPAR it is a product by Awlgrip...put about ten coats of that build up coat of AWSPAR..but the more the better, but it all depends of how satisfied you are..then you can use the varnish I use in this video..as the top coat about 3 coats for best results..

Yahh I heard a few good thing about teak wonder, I was going to buy a small tin of it and use it for this project, but I was a bit hesitant, so I end up using the one I have .. the tried and tested on our furnitures but not on the deck, about the Semco I actually tried ansmall area on our previous tender but I did not like the strong smell of it and the slight yellowish tint, it look a bit unnatural.

@@leoncaputolan got it thanks a lot

Thank you...👍👍

Thanks mate..

Hello mate... actually this is 3 part varnish, I said in the video two part because I am used to another urethane varnish that I use a while back ..this particular varnish I used here is called Awlbrite this has to be mixe together with its converter and brushing activator..the mixing ratio is 2 part: Base J3005 1 part: Converter J3006 1/2 part : Brushing activator A0031. Hope this helps....

Thanks...I'm glad you guys enjoyed it.🙏

Thanks Candela..

Thanks for the kind words..🙏👍

I sanded it with 320 grit sandpaper...or you can scuff it with that fine maroon color scotch pad ..

Thanks Jess

Thanks mate ..

Thanks..I'm glad you liked it!

Thanks👍

thank you, my next video will be the one using this technique.

Thanks a lot🤗