I'm also making that kit. I am referring to your video! When I went to that deck next, I found that the porthole that I drilled out was hidden in the middle. Do you want to assemble it as is? Or is there a better way?

If you have a problem with the testors glue tube. It's best to clean the top of the tube then use a tooth pick to open up the hole in the tube. I have been doing that since I was 10 years old and I am 62 years old now. Have you looked at Agora Models and their Titanic model ship? It is the best. So far you have a very nice model here I cannot wait to see it finished

Hey Gary - The Midwest Model Shop (youtube cannel) has 3D printed benches for sale in 1/350th scale. They are beautiful and well worth getting in my opinion. You can check ben's video out on his channel. I know this is late info and you put a lot of work into these - but I feel it's worth checking it out at least. Enjoying the series. By the way there are more 3D printed parts available. If you want I can provide you with the sources.

Great way to solve the deck problem.

Did you consider installing the deck with the gap, and filling the gap with a putty? Gary, we don't have trust issues with you. - Don't let your wife see you working on her dining room table !! 😂 Did you put the engines in before you put the deck on ? That is one monster size of a kit. Good to see you again Gary.

I had a similar experience with the same part. Soaking it in ammonia removed the residual paint and let me start over. Rather than scoring the metal, I sprayed on several very thin coats of Tamiya surface primer (light gray). The important thing, IMO, was to let that primer cure for literally several weeks while I worked on other areas of the model. My surface color was then applied by airbrush and also allowed to fully cure/dry. When working to affix the dry-transfer decal, I used a pencil with the graphite dull enough to not poke a hole in the backing but sharp enough to apply pressure to the white decal. The added benefit was seeing where I had "colored" pencil graphite over the decal so I didn't apply pressure to the darker gray paint. No pressure should be applied to any part of the backing where it directly touches the paint; just the white decal. What I learned here was to slowly peel the backing away from the dry-transfer decal in a way that any white not adhering to the painted part could be put under additional pressing by either the pencil or a similar metal tool. The whole thing then received a very light spray of flat clear coat. Thank you, Gary, for letting us see this "fail" so we were aware of what could happen. Had my approach not worked, I would have started over (ammonia) and then scored the metal as you did in the later episode.

Geez Gary, get on with it! Look forward to your building tips if I can get thru the babble. Less talk, more building.

Glad to see you back Gary. Don't be gone so long. Can you fill that gap with putty?

I'm doing the 700 nj and some parts the tamiya instructions state to cut off. Does it meant cut these tiny raised ridges or is it something else?

Glad you're back at it. Nice job on the missing beck pieces. I can not believe the deck is 3mm short.

Coming along nicely. Not sure how I missed this episode. Any new updates coming?

Hi..thanks for doing this. What spray kit do you use?

I really, really like how the black turned out! Incredible paint job. My mind's eye always has the black as being darker, but seeing as none of us were there to see these ships for ourselves, who's to say this isn't very close? I kind of wish you had shown you doing the actual painting. I've never airbrushed and am very uncertain how to do it correctly, but I'm sure there are plenty of videos out there for that. Again, excellent paint job!! Thanks for another great video! Looking forward to whenever you get back!

I'm gearing up to start a new Titanic model project. Either creating a wreck model from my beaten up 1/400 Titanic model, or doing an Olympic conversion of a 1/350 Titanic kit (of which I have 3 sitting on a shelf in their boxes collecting dust & taking up space. Anyway, I've never attempted photo etch parts. I know they add tremendous detail & "separate the men from the boys" (so to speak) as modellers go, but I'm 99% certain I do not have the ability or the patience. Especially for those benches. I've been waiting a while to see someone do them in a video and it looks like a nightmare. I'm just not certain the extra detail on the benches is worth the trouble, for me. Mad respect for you, and anyone else with the skill and fortitude to go through all that. And your's do look great. I might decide to attempt the railings at some point. Maybe for the wreck model so i can get used to working with photo etch and it not really matter if i bend or screw them since it's a wreck model, but otherwise I'm thinking its best i stick with the plastic kit parts. Thank you for these videos! I had never thought to use putty to fix those pesky C Deck windows, but your's turned out great. I'll definitely be improving the kit by doing the same when i start my build. Looking forward to learning more from your videos! Thank you again for posting!

tamiya buff is as close as you will get, I worked in H&W for 30 years and had access to many old records. there are no colour photos the closest is the white star line promo advertisements.

there is no accurate colour, no colour photo's were ever taken of Titanic.

The controls are the windless brake and windlass control.

I hate dry xfer but I was successful on LPD 17 model over coating flight deck with flat gloss spray. Be careful on spraying because it may alligator affect the deck. Good luck

Scale colors are good. Make sure you use the thinner

Hello, I have this kit (well, not really, it's the original one with the PE from 1999) in my stash for ages. Personally I wouldn't bother with the windows not being on the right plase... after all, it's destiny is to sink...

Also being an ok modeler, I struggle with threading through tiny holes. I have been working on a wooden ship's rigging and the tip I picked up is to cut the thread on an angle, then coat with a small amount of CA glue, which makes it sort of like a needle. It does make it somewhat easier. I'm watching this series because I have the Revell Platinum edition of this model waiting for me in my workshop.

Good seeing you back on the channel Gary - The ship is looking good. Henry

Guess I would go a different way when doing mine. First, spray on a solvent primer. Followed by white, then yellow. After this cut 1 mm masking tape and cover the area of the yellow stripe. Apply some transparent gloss coat, that should prevent bleeding of the white and black colours applied later. I think this should result in a nice fine yellow line.

This playlist is gonna be a lot of help to me when i get my 1/350 boi and get the courage to build it! in the future if i do use this, thanks ( i cant remember the word for thanks in the future) wait aren't i 12-

What Metalic color did u use for the back. Was it the grey metallic mentioned in the first video.

Great build. Just dong this one now.

What size drill for the two size port holes did you use...?? Thanks..

Zzzzzzzzz

You did a much better job on those benches than I did on my first (and only) try! A jig to make the bends would be awesome, but so far I couldn’t find one. Also, no luck on 3D printed benches.

Liked the super-fast sanding noise! 😁 Thank you for those useful links to the aftermarket and paints! Very helpful, as I have the same kit.

Is that a recent purchase because the kit that i have from years ago didn't have any details, such as portholes on the 01 deck or almost anything.

Gary, I am watching your videos on the building of the Tamiya 1/350 scale New Jersey BB-62 & very impressed with how you work. I do have one question though. I have been searching all day to find the right locations for all the deck drains & I can't find any. You do not mention the locations for drilling & I really do not want to mess mine up. Could you please help me out with this. Cheers from BC, Canada

Hi loving your last 2 videos of the London bus build, but I cannot find any others. Have you published part 3

Imagine being teleported back to December 1941 in this modern configuration.

Good to see you back Gary. Gary, you are out of your mind! That is a lot of work (Did you say there are 48 of them?) I am getting ready to do my first PE job - I'll PM photos to you as I go along. Don't be away so long - I enjoy your videos.

Wondered why you hadn't posted in a while. Now I know. Those would totally drain my mojo for building. The vacations were well earned after dealing with those. How are you not having nightmares about these. As usual though, well done!

Thank you for sharing this very informative video! 👍👍👍🚙🚙

Do you think a single modern destroyer would sink a battleship? I wonder why did they get remove for navies.

What has happened to part 3??

I’m really enjoying your build of Titanic and look forward to seeing more. I believe the propellor shaft housings are known as “skegs.”

What is the tool you use to apply the superglue, the one with the red handle?

How do you cut the deck off the sheet? I just received my ponto kit and am about to embark on this misson of patience

Fuckin brilliant resolution for the windows. I really don’t know how they screwed that up

Have you got a oink for the brass barrel and blast bag kit dude?

I just bought this set with little knowledge on how to put together larger scale ships, Do I have to buy the paint tones individually? Thanks!

Your video title says 1/250 and not 1/350 😁 So looking at my hull after watching your first ep, I decided to do the same approach and fill in part of the windows of my kit.

I have made three of these kits, all Minicraft 1/350 scale. They're enjoyable builds, and I am now inspired to make a fourth, but with PE this time. Keep up the good work.

Loren Perry's Gold Metal Model's makes a photo etched set for this kit as well. He has some photo-etch for the kit that will amaze you. Also this kit was originally made by produced by a company named Entex back in the late 70's.- early 80's. and they used the plans from Olympic when they did the molds adding in what they could of the Titanic's modification's. that is why somethings are not on this mold as Titanic's plan were believed to been destroyed during the war. one major give away they used the Olympic' plans, is the deck the deck between the second and third funnels. if you look at a photo of the deck on the Titanic here you will see it is slightly different where as if you look at the same deck in a photo of the Olympic it is identical. However even with it's minor flaws it still resembles the RMS Titanic when completed

Gary, I use Elmers glue to fill some gaps, it cleans up easily with water, I also use Testors "Clear plastic" glue to fill gaps . I look forward to seeing more progress on the Titanic.

I recently finished this kit as a gift to my father-in-law. Took me 18 months. Fully lit with LED's and lots of PE extras. You have a mighty task ahead of you sir! My advice? Get the putty out and buy lots of super glue! I'll be watching! Good luck!