Its simply screwed on. Mine unscrewed itself when removing the bottom part from the Seatpost Tube. Maybe hold the inner cylinder with a combination of multiple layers of tape and pliers? Although since you want to replace it anyways you can the skip the tape. Screw the new one in with some Rubber gloves and you should be good to go. I dont see a problem with it being handtight since there is always pressure on the threads.

I want to try your style. Do I need to unscrew the setscrew at the back of the seatpost head and the seal collar ring(you meant top cap) ? Could you tell me what you did in more detail. Thanks

@@도준호-b8w I only unscrew the seal collar ring(top cap) and "lifted" the upper seal and put grease in. Little service, but it worked and it still working fine 🙂

@JohnnyCarlsen thank you for your help^^

In that case you'd need to tap the linkage out from the axle again (at least a little).

@@MTBSuomi thanks! Creaking noise on my linkage is gone.

www.orbea.com/gear/spare-parts/cat/derailleur-hanger-std-x12-fs-2

@@MTBSuomi Thank you very much!

Unfortunately it's a pic on the opposite side of nut. Can anyone confirm if lock ring is included with hanger linked?

Yes, indeed! It's Kasavuori in Espoo. Beautiful DH segment 🤌

@@MTBSuomi reconized the location and just had to check comments, I was right but last time I rode there was a dark night so looked bit odd

Hei! I'm 178cm tall as well and I had Occam in size M, which was perfectly fitting for me. I wouldn't choose L, but you'd be better of if you try it yourself first, of course. Good luck! 💪

Do it pushing in and turning right at the same time. I did it and it worked

Thanks for the tip. This must've happened with my Occam too. Felt way more smooth when I took the bearings off the bike.

Cheers Eirik. Orbea should rename the tool 'linkage end float removal tool', as using 'pre-load' means you must load the bearing in some way which is definitely not required. All the best from Scotland Ewen

@@-ewen Hi, I'm a total noob when it comes to servicing bikes and you seem to know your stuff so I'm hoping that you would be kind enough to help me. I have a 2022/2023 carbon occam which has developed creaking when pedaling under load. I've had this happen in the past and the way I fixed it was by tightening the "pre-load" bolt in my linkage. What I mean by this is that I didn't get the purple installation tool with my bike, but a bolt came already pre-installed inside the threaded side of the linkage axle, in the same exact spot that the purple tool goes into in this video at 10:08. The bolt has 4nm written on it. In the past when my occam was creaking this bolt always turned out to be loose and tightening it to 4nm always fixed the issue. But now the bolt is tightened to 4nm and the bike is still creaking. And after watching this video I'm really confused because if I now understand it correctly, this bolt is not structural and is only needed as a temporary installation tool during the linkage installation process? Or is the 2022 occam different in this regard in that it requires this additional bolt to be installed and tightened down at all times? But the linkage on my bike looks exactly the same as the one on the video as far as I can tell. So is the bolt not even needed when riding the bike? So how come tightening this bolt fixed my creaking issues in the past? Does this point to my linkage not being tightened down correctly, most likely due to the "pre load" bolt not having been tightened down enough when the other bolt (seen at 11:18 in the video) was initially installed in factory? I assume my best bet is to follow this video along to disassemble and then re-assemble everything to see if that fixes the creaking. But I'm now really confused about that extra bolt and whether it's needed permanently (and always torqued to 4nm) or if it's just a different version of the pre-load installation tool and is only needed during installation. I'd be really grateful for any help.

Solving a creak can be a difficult one. Dose it still creak if you lock out your suspension? Sometimes the only way is to change out all the bearings. My son's Occam was creaking and it was the crank bearings. Fairly easy job to do though you do need a special tool. One of the other issues with MTB suspension bearings is that they rotate only a few degrees, so the ball bearings never rotate really and only wear on the one spot. If installing bearings I carefully pick out the plastic covers and fill the bearing with a thick grease. More often than not the 'new' bearings have next to no grease in them. You then wash your bike and water enters the bearings resulting in corrosion which can lead to creaking suspension.

@@-ewen Hi, thanks a lot for the reply. I managed to fix the creak today. As I suspected, it was the linkage, the same exact spot that was causing creaking in the past. But this time, just tightening the preload bolt didn't do the trick. I had to take out both the linkage preload bolt as well as the right linkage pinch bolt completely and then put them back in and tighten them to the correct spec in the correct order according to the Orbea blue paper. That did the trick. Oh, and I also found out that Orbea changed the design of the linkage in 2022. One of the changes is the addition of a preload bolt, which goes into the threaded hole that's used for the preload tool on older models. That's why I was so confused by this video, since the video features an older model of the occam which doesn't have a permanent bolt there and only used that threaded hole during the linkage installation process. But on my 2022 occam that hole is now occupied permanently by something called a preload bolt.

I've tried both ways - I don't think it matters. Of course the threaded side needs to be opposite of the preassembled side in order to achieve proper preload.