Ive had a look at the video but cannot remember exactly. I’ve taken a while to respond incase another Bentley came in and i could take a look for you but i haven’t had another one for the kind of work that will allow for me to see unfortunately. If it goes to the mani on one bank, its likely a vac line or maybe fumes from the evap. (If it is actually going into the manifold that is). I can only suggest that If the hose you can see goes to the hard line pipes then one would assume the same for the other side (easier said i know). Follow what you can see from the hard-lines back to wherever it is possible to see working your way towards the end of each rubber hose, you may see a provision under the intake manifold that branches off (maybe a T-piece) or a straight barb joiner from a hose that could be resting under there waiting to push the unconnected end to. Sorry i cant be anymore help

@@theeccentrick you were very accurate sir! Thank you for taking the time. It was a vacuum hose that starts at the intake manifold hard line and goes to the turbo. I could not see the attachment point at the turbo from above, until I squeezed my phone in there with the video on, played the footage back and saw. The guy who helped me identify this was none other than Johnny Hotspur on the forums, massive shout out to him! Routed the hose properly, and my rough idle went away, thank the lord! Up until yesterday she was driving smooth, but I braked hard at one point, and the Transmission lights were all lit, check engine came on. Scanned it and got P0420 Cat System, Bank 1: Efficiency Low and P0736 Transmission Reverse Incorrect Ratio, so here I am, ready to replace the spark plugs before going further.

Sorry to disappoint steve, i often find the insides of components (or under the skin) on most cars aren’t too dissimilar from one another but for some very subtle differences in size shape etc. The tricky part is either locating, or accessing the part and doing so safely, in the easiest manner and without damaging anything along your way. Thanks so much for your feedback though, i shall try to include those details in future videos

Hi Austin, Depends what you mean by a “tune up” if you are after performance tuning (i.e remapping etc) im afraid its not my thing. I’ve done it all before as you can see from 1 or 2 of my other videos, but i am less hands on nowadays and tend to stick to straight forward repairs 80% of the time. If you are talking about servicing i.e replacing spark plugs, the filters and the necessary fluids or you have an issue with a vehicle then i may be able to help. The gasket was a repair i did later on the same vehicle its was the valve cover gasket that was leaking on bank 2.

Decels fine. Icv keeps it from cutting out

Hi Brother salam to you too, to be honest i never put it on a rolling-road so i cannot tell you the answer as i do not know. Everyday life became a pain, warming it up every morning/evening was annoying (when i’m in a rush) and i imagine the noise probably upset the neighbours too. I made the exhaust quieter so that helped me feel more comfortable. Soon after this we had Covid and subsequently the fuel prices also went up and up and up; To add to that our government added a sort of Tax called ULEZ that means it would cost me £12.50 per day on top of the insane £10-15 fuel costs just to drive it everyday (10-12 miles) on top of tax and insurance it was probably cheaper to hire a chauffeur. I still love it as a novelty, also in a few years she will hopefully become ULEZ exempt so we will wait and see 🤷‍♂️. I did drive it last week and enjoyed it very much👌

@@theeccentrick терпения брат , все будет но не сразу , и спасибо за ответ )

Glad you liked it

Really did thank you 😊

I put the rear section on first, followed by the pockets that i show you approx 8mins into the video. Then work along the roof all the way to the front. Moving the frame work in between to your advantage to help get things in place is also necessary. Thanks for watching!!!

For a comprehensive service with premium parts, including the plugs… £1050 inc VAT in 2022

If i recall the red wire was a signal being stolen from the other side of the engine bank 2 (B2) MAF sensor, this was presumably because the MAF on B1 was faulty and rather than replacing the unit, a butcher (not me) spliced into the B2 supply to trick the ECU into seeing the measured air mass from B2 and thus bypassing the faulty readings B1 would have been providing.

Thanks for your comment, awesome looking machines but when you buy a brand with a reputation like this and a price to match you expect everything to be made to a certain ‘special’ standard. For example let’s start with the key… which one would agree is an easy thing to Jazz up… NO, its the SAME tacky flip out key as any VAG (VW,AUDI SKODA to name but a few) with a tacky Bentley badge on it. All the harness connectors, switches and controls are also produced in the same manner and styling etc. The new Rolls Royce (7 series BMW) is also going down this route. We’ve come to expect a certain level of bespoke finishing with these brands and not just bouncy leather, some wood and an analogue clock on the dash of a Phaeton or 7 series. I sound moody but im not 😂

Agree 100%. Brands you mention play on brand heritage to fool the rich into paying huge sums! I mean the RR is a 7 series in a suit! Aston couldn’t even create a car without past donors like Ford, Volvo & now Mercedes! Cheers!

Went through a tunnel at JUST the right time for an exaggerated blow off!

What can i help with?

Hi how are you ? ...my astra seems to just loose power when driving acceleration just goes dead and then kicks in again and some times it just doesn't pick up acceleration and then at times it drive well and is quite nippy I'm having a new water pump fitted at the moment and it's got error codes saying cylinder 2 misfire and 4 and multiple misfires detected plus about 3 different 02 sensor codes and when sitting idle the car will start juddering and then stop like its cut out but engine sil running nice and quiet Any ideas ?

@@theeccentrick hi ...my astra 2006 1.4i sxi 16v keeps loosing power when accelerating and then kicks back in and a lot of the time it just doesn't want to accelerate when foot to the floor and when at lights idle it will start to judder and then stop feeling like it's cut out but engine still running nice and quiet I have error codes saying cylinder 2 and 4 misfire and another one saying multiple misfire detected and I think 3 error code saying 02 sensor No lights come on when driving but it's in the garage now getting new water pump and mechanic told me there is no bulb in engine light so probs why its not coming on Any ideas mate

When it's not doing this it drives quite well

First things first i would start by confirming/diagnosing where your issue lies, the garage should… 1) Check the spark plugs and test the O2 sensor 2) Check coil pack and Check harness for the coil pack is not damaged (on right of engine) 3) wet and dry compression test to confirm cylinders and timing appears okay. 4) They should test the Evap Purge valve which commonly causes your symptoms on theses cars. 5) Check and clean and realign throttle body 6) Make sure no air leaks on the intake 7) perform a reset of learnt adaptations. No Particular perfect order!!!

Someone had spliced into the signal supply from the other side of the engine to trick what the ecu saw and hide the defective part

Sadly the cooling systems on this engine are prone to issues. Ignoring a leak or failed thermostat leads to overheating which very quickly causes the damage.

@@theeccentrick good to know I will keep eye out for engine temp in the secret menu 👍

Hi, the head was sent to an engineering centre for prep and arrived ready to install. Was just blown with compressed air prior to seating. The timing tools go between the cam sprockets and need to be slid-in in a particular order. You may want to check a separate video for that.

@@theeccentrick Where can I get those plastic tools? Thank you

I’d say £900 (ish)

@@theeccentrick thanks they said 982 quid

Somewhere around £125 at a guess

​@theeccentrick you're taking the piss mate I think you forgetting some zeros

@@theeccentrick Bentley dealer here in Naples charges $ 280 an hour ,a regular oil service is almost $ 800 so I guess the job you did will be close to $ 2000

Hi yes i still have it, very very rarely drive it. I would have done the Megasquirt or an alternative fuel management system if i drove it more regularly, sadly where i live we now get hit with a daily charge of £12.50 to drive cars that do not conform to modern exhaust emissions standards. :(

I am just in the edge of ulez, but don't need to pay yet. And i am think in turbo next year. So thinking in gathering some parts and see how i am going to actually build it

Advisable with any electric repair

I’m afraid i cannot recall, i do vaguely remember rectifying the soft close feature on the same model by replacing a latch and actuator assembly in the boot/trunk though if that helps you with your issue.

200 dollars 😊

@@iLoveBoysandBerries 🤣 i wish

No a non-variable sprocket should not move at all, Tighten to the correct torque specs and it will become one with the shaft

@Eccentrick it is variable vvt but only moves about 2mm side to side?

Not an expert but i’d say so, there will likely be a micro switch that gives the all clear for the next stage of the roof to kick in.

No, but put them down before you move it if you’d like, if your trying to do a reset procedure and it’s not working check the video I made on testing the motors to see if they work, if they are fine, it may be that your module is bad

I used, bosch 0280155831 red injector with a rising rate fuel pressure regulator.

@@theeccentrick THANK YOU!

Ó

9

Made them out of OEM lights, DEPO lights, CCFL inserts and HID kit, total costed me over £500 back then, and you risk breaking the new Depo glass (like me) meaning i had to search high and low for another depo aftermarket light JUST for the lens, but i got one for an e34 (same glass size) and moved it across which ended up another £65 on top Great mod but trick is patience AND patience. IN A NUTSHELL: Take off OEMs Buy DEPOS Heat depo seal to break away crystal clear glass lenses x 4 this is the risky bit Using the rear of the OEM’s and the faces and inserts of the depos i painted the depo inserts satin black, retro fitted the Depo inserts into the original casings (u could just use the depo casings but they felt a bit cheap and i remember there being another restriction) De-chromed anything chrome like the surrounds etc. Drilled the light inserts to take CCFL’s (halo’s) fitted those into the light inserts and finally sealed up the crisp clear Depo glass over the front. The last easy bit was modifying the rear of the light to take HID’s and whacked them in. If only i had a supply of JUST the Depo front glasses for like £100 you’d save about £150 on the mod (prices subject to when i did it 8+ years ago)

Feed came from original oil pressure sensor location which you can fit a 2 way connector to obtain a pressure reading and an oil feed line. Drain is the right angle elbow fitted to side of sump BE CAREFUL you must choose the location of the elbow so the rear of the bulkhead fitting of the elbow does not interfere with the oil pump on the inside

Buy me some more then!!! Just kidding its all gone now, mostly black again and got rid of that nasty sticker bomb too, you get fed up after a while and need a change. Got 2 sets of bonnets and boot lids too 1 carbon and one OEM just for a change when fancied 🤷‍♂️

Hi, thanks for your comment. problem was that the boot/trunk would not soft close and issues with the roof operation, access and entry was all fine.

Inside engine remained stock just new pistons, rings and internals, ignition system is also stock the changes that were made are covered in the video. thx

Good luck bro, make a vid and be sure to send me a link 👍👍👍