Currently there is a full reversal of the state laws in AU that are in place to have your remove 5.7 & 6 ltr ls You can only fit 5.3 ltr LS Best you take that video down

Yes brother oth I still miss the one I sold years ago bro I wish I never did

Are you sure it was a lifter ticking and not a bearing that was buggered due to bearing quality

Use K&N hp2003 oil filter

Put it this way,the minimum oil pressure in my 2002 model Holden VY SS Commodore which runs the 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 engine is 6 PSI to GM specs at idle speed which I think is too low,mine was 30 PSI idle speed when the engine was warm,37 PSI at 2000 RPM & 60 PSI at 4000 RPMs which is good,I think that my engine would have problems if it was 6 PSI at idle speed. 18 PSI is acceptable when idling when the engine is warm, mine was in spec for a GENIII LS1 V8 engine !

253-308s will run forever on 7-8 psi

Horrible engines for oil pressure, my engine was the same almost dead at idle my old engine builder slapped it together. It’s been redone now but still very bad at idle on cold starts. You’re idle pressure is actually very good.

What the bloody he'll do you know

Hopefully you didn't do any damage to lifters or cam with the low oil pressure. Holden V8's have known oil pressure issues. Ive had that in the past hence on my current 355 build I went to a roller cam set up. But it doesn't excuse unfortunately why a fresh build had low oil pressure your engine builder is to blame 100%.

Oil pick up tube to close to the bottom of the oil pan.

Run a non synthetic oil penrite make a great100% mineral oil

Worn cam bearings will reduce oil pressure , the oiling system lubricates cam bearings first, lifters, then down to the mains and to big the ends

I have rebuilt a few 253, and 308's some tend to just run low for no apparent reason, I wouldnt worry too much, check oil pump clearances on lobes in this instance.

One of them things man, ive seen this twice, once in my 97 cobra 4 cam 4.6 and in my Speed 3 MZR 2.3. Both built properly with King bearings. No matter the weight of oil they both would have a hot idle of around 10 psi. Both motors lived a long life though and were beat on pretty hard.

And then there is the difference between bearing manufacturers. Only mention this as have seen many issues over my 40 plus years in the trade. Can't put ang engine together without careful thorough measuring, I personally have had 3 different brands of standard size crank and conrod bearings with all 3 brands showing different clearances. Non of the bearing brands were even race bearings ( wich can give larger clearances if desired depending on desired outcome). Worth sharing wouldn't you say?🙂

Hope you get on top of your oil concerns but regardless, welcome to the Torana club mate 👍

I had similar trouble with a different engine, but it's oil pressure by-pass was in the side of the filter mount and used a cup type plunger behind a spring. I found it was hanging open, so replaced the cup with a ball bearing and the problem went away.

Holden V8s are notorious for very low oil pressure at idle. Stick with a good oil like Penrite HPR30 and you'll be fine. That all looks and sounds normal if you've got a thinner oil, like a LS1 grade oil in it.

Not bearing clearance but he changed the bearings. R you that stupid

All I can think of is that the builder didn't check bearing to journal clearance with the new bearing shells fitted prior to fully assembling the engine & sending it out to the customer . My 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 engine (I know that I am not talking about the 5 litre Holden V8 engine here) had 30 PSI of oil pressure at idle speed,37 PSI at 2000 RPMs & 60 PSI at 4000 RPMs which is within the manufacturers specifications. That was at about 300,000 kilometres or a bit over as I was trying to diagnose a hydraulic lifter noise which appeared once the engine had warmed up so in my case it was due to bad hydraulic lifters, not a low oil pressure issue. I replaced the lifters 5 years ago & the engine has been going good ever Since & with no lifter tick !

Holden V8's are not known for great oil pressure at any time...Factory specs say 275-415kpa (40-60psi) @2000rpm is acceptable with 20-W50 mineral oil thru a Z160 oil filter and thermostat at 88-90C...I use 20W60 Penrite in my 304 and keep it about a 1/2 liter overfull to splash the cam...it seems to have 17psi @ idle and it's an old engine...That pressure is outstanding...I wonder if the cam bearings weren't up to scratch and they changed them.?...The cam is where the oil goes before it goes thru the crank and bearings...If they only tightened the bigend and main bearing clearances on a fresh engine then the didn't do the right job from Go...Just my opinion...Cheers mate,

I would have figured camshaft bearings being the issue since you had no knocking.

put some thicker oil in it, the moose piss you have in it now s too thin, try 20w - 50, then up to 25w - 60, mineral based with extra zinc, as the engine heats up, the clearances increase and you need more viscosity to take up the bearing clearances, without stripping it down and measuring it up that's the most likely cause, otherwise remove your pressure relief valve out of the oil pump, make sure it is not sticky. The lifter is getting noisy due to the low oil pressure.

I'd say great effort by all that's a success right there

What parts are needed for the conversion?

Got the same on an 88 Toyota P/U 22R, better vacuum readings than in this video 20 in. hg., but same needle action. Have to agree with the rest here, it's worn valve guides.

Was it valve guides worn?

Looks like a great car in good condition.

Do you have a list of what was used to do this conversion, I'm wanting to do this as well, got the motor and box ECU lume

Nice work, how's it go?

Nice job mate. If your fitech experience was anything like mine then you probably had a few baby steps in getting the thing dialled in, well worth it in the end and the more it runs the better it becomes.

Valve guides worn

Good day. I have the same problem on my car. Have you found out what is wrong with the engine on why it fluctuates?

Did you adjust your throttle body blades then preform TPS reset, also your IAC is fluctuating a lot which also says your TB blades aren't quite adjusted correctly. Also having such a low injector duty cycle can be a problem because this system doesn't allow fine tuning of injector pulse width.

It may be unrelated but injector duty is really low. Much less the 2% and an injector won't even open. Just a thought.

vacuum leak? iac adjustment?

Nice install... i installed one on my channel as well,and what i have learned about the fitech idle is if you have a fan connected thru the fitech, it does seem to change the idle when the fan is supposed to kick on... try turning off your fan setting and see if your idle improves. The other thing i learned, is that when you drive it, its seems to idle better... the system seems to take the settings better after i drove it. After i finished my test drive, everything was much closer to the setting that i programmed in when i first installed it.. hope this helps you out.

thanks tom vac line was connected out of the box. i cant see any vac leaks. if any vac leaks it should throw DTC..? still im strugling with idle hunt.. also my vac gauge fluctuate at 20 inch pound..? thanks

Thank you everyone for supporting ME!!!!!!

Well done my sweet heart , really proud of you. Keep it up.