thanks man!

in my opinion any of the 6.0L LS chevy engines with a 4l80e and np242. it was relativly easy to fit and i was able to use the front driveshaft from the truck and the rear DS from the jeep with conversion u joints.

@ great And what about the electrical

@@brucea822 Well i used the stock LS computer from the truck to control both the engine and transmission. they are pretty easy to setup to run as a standalone LT1Swap.com has some EXCELENT info on how to do that. i do have a video sitting waiting for editing about that I think. the only difference from what I did is that I recommend keeping the jeeps stock fuse box and tieing in the ls harness to power off that and trigger the fuel pump relays and stuff. i used the truck fuse panel and it did cause a lot of extra work. lots of people have done ls swaps and most keep; tteh stock fuse panel. the only other thing I have to deal with is guages and there's a lot of ways you can go about that

@@breadboxracingand4x4 this is great information and very much appreciated Finally someone who understands my point Thank you and Merry Christmas

@@brucea822 merry christmas to you as well!

yea i think it was a 0.4.d if i remember correctly

@breadboxracingand4x4 nice, I will be trying to figure out how to tune here soon

It did some if we put the carpet it in would have more so. This was mostly to make it easier to wash

i honestly dont remember beyond them both being 90s era

@@breadboxracingand4x4 did you have to rewire the cdi wires or the stator?

@@TerrorTales4271998 if i recall correctly i used the harness from the engine that i rebuilt so i dint ahve to. i also used the harness from the quad that was back halfed that that engine came from . if i remember correctly (its been a few years) the stator position was different between teh two engines. i also used the flywheel from the engine i rebuilt cause the pickup position might have been different but i had no way to tell so i kept everything matching.

if it is refusing to go into gear and you can feel the shift lever doesnt want to move into that position then that means everything is still connected so my guess is one of three things 1)would be that the shift fork has jumped out of its slot ont he syncro or 2) the teeth on the syncro have been wiped out somehow or 3) something is lodged in the syncro a good test to conduct would be to see if the transmission will go into 5th while the car is parked and not running. if it does then likely your problem is 2)... if it doesn't then that means 2 is pretty unklikly. i was able to order the parts for my gearbox through porshe cogscogs.com had good part diagrams www.cogscogs.com/Boxster-Manual-Transmission-Type-986_c_189.html

thanks for the tip thankfully the spring perches are in good shape and rust free i did check that before i started putting things back in cause if they needed doing that would have been the time.

thanks man! yea i agree its hard to know what type of quality your getting from restorations now unless you personally know the shop that did it. im just waiting on rear 1/4 panels and outside inner rear wheel wells and front and rear valences to show up this week by next spring im hoping to have all the sheet metal work done on the car

i think your best bet is to find anouther 4.0. theres no way your gonna make the jeep electronics that control the stock trans play with the gm ECU and they would need to communicate.

@@breadboxracingand4x4the LS is going in with its own trans and its own ECU .. i am thinking about doing it .. i love the JW , its compact size and easy reliable suspension, the 4.7 is not very reliable engine

@@boldkojak2734 agreed the 4.7 i wouldnt trust to get me home when I'm 8 hours into the bush

well we are still working on ecu the speeduino i think we got a dud so we will be getting a hondata but to date we got the used turbo kit for 400 CAD from a d series civic. we spent about 100$ CAD making the manifold including the materials, studs, and welding consumables. a hondata will cost well im not sure what that costs a grand?. so all in 1500-2000 canadian

Thanks yea the brace worked quite well for me.

What a small world hahaha

The drone can be a bit much on the highway for 8 hours. It is definatly loud but nobody I know has told me they thought it was too much. But man it sounds good when you open it up and run the tach out

im 90% sure its the starter. i havnt fixed it yet tho. ive been procrastinating on that.

its our best survival trait. humans are very good at knowing "something seems wrong" even if we cant say for sure what it is. its the figuring out what is wrong where knowledge and practice come in

right!?!

Hey man thanks for the sub. We also have a kswap 1970 mgb on the go too if that's something your interested in. I'm always down for collabs if you got some ideas shoot me a DM or email me [email protected]

yea its a big job for sure im happy its mostly done now and i can roll the car around without scaffolding to hold it straight

Power company is replacing a bunch of poles at a substation. They shut of power to about 9500 homes

@@breadboxracingand4x4 Well Polish people need jobs too.

@@Dee-gi4ge lol

with how i built theses it would next to impossable to guarantee fitment it wasnt that hard to make these tho. a cheep harbour freight welder, a grinder and a cordless drill is really all the tools you need oh and a hammer

@@breadboxracingand4x4 I have thought about grabbing these tools just to have and the body I have is good and complete. Minimum I see is needing the adapter plate, flywheel, and possibly harness. Not building to race but don’t mind some extra horses.

i agree its not that fast but for a b series where your ignition is still distributor based. and its batch fire injection cause it only has crank signal it should be plenty fast enough. lots of guys out there useing these for high reving 4 cyl streetbikes so should be fine

is that simpler? in my opinion a little wiring work is easier and simpler than a whole bunch of extra plumbing and running new wires and harnesses for the controller and guages. that route would also have been quite expensive. vs this which was essentially free cause i already had the parts from the truck

@@breadboxracingand4x4 yea it would definitely cost more but i was just thinking it would super nice to eliminate so much emissions crap lol to me running gauges is easy versus pin out figuring out. Wiring harness adapting is frustrating as hell to me and it seems nothing ever works right without a bunch of adapting lol. You could even swap in a built th400 or 700R4 with a 205 case and have almost no wiring to deal with. Basically an early 70s chevy drivetrain. Just ideas I'm having while binge watching your swap videos.

all good points. thankfully i live in canada still a great option for budget race cars tho

thanks man! hopefully soon here ill get to finish re-rebuilding the tcase here soon and be able to post a video of the thing actually out wheeling

yea it turned out pretty great. the intercooler mounting expecially worked out good

Thanks

never hurts to get some testing done.

RIGHT!?!

each* Also I have often burned food because of this. So I switched to meals in the crockpot!

crockpot meals are the best!

yup the secrets out

definatly never bored hahahah

It's hard for things like this cause if I call them sills I make the north american crowd angry and if I call them rockers I make the European croud angry. In north America we call them rocker panels even the us division of moss motors has them labeled as rocker panels. It's the same as the trunk/boot or hood/bonnet argument I'm just stuck in the middle trying/failing to make everyone happy

i dont have any experience with the newer trucks unfortunatly so it would be kinda a crap shoot

thanks for watching! this weekend i plan on swapping the tcase then i can actually use the thing and wheel it some. but it has driven to the car show two years in a row since the swap under its own power and always starts up right away. there will be some videos on this thing coming in the next few months for sure

it was a bit convoluted but i used the jeeps original base model rear driveshaft with a conversion ujoint at the tcase and the chevy output yoke. in the front i used the chevy front driveshaft with a conversion ujoint at the differential. it was just happy accident that the shaft lengths were close enough. course this may all change this weekend when i finally put the manual tranfer case in and ditch the autotrack one that was stuck in 2wd

I was contemplating using the stock 4l80 case when I do mine, but I wasn't sure if it was controllable to switch from 2wd. I couldnt find much info on it

@@MrWubDUbDub if you could figure out the outputs its expecting it would be for sure. but nobody has ever put an oscilloscope on one of the trucks that I found to figure out what sort of signaling and power the truck sends to the case. that and I wanted to interior to look mostly original except for the cluster so manual it was. these cases are probably easier to find in the states

yea thats probably about where ill wind up for hours its definatly a big job

yes you could do that. however they did a really bad job of the programming on the 42 RE. the hsift points are just awefull, and it will hold a gear and loose speed for way to long on hills then drop 2-3 gears and it tries to spin out in winter. that transmission was my biggest issue with the jeep.maby with more power infront of it like your saying it would be better tho cause it could maintain speed up hills in the higher gear.

It's gonna take me a while but I'm gonna try it an see what happens.. Might work Might not. You are right about that transmission tho !

supposedly you can make it work. but because of choices we made a year and a half ago now i wont be able to use the jeeps dash. im currently working on adapting the chevy cluster into the jeep and making a 3d printed bessle

You can make everything work like factory with very little work, just make sure that you don’t cut any of the stock harness, mainly just have to run power to the oem jeep fuse box in the engine bay and it will work as intended

I'm thinking of using cavity wax. But need to figure out if I should leave the ecoat on or strip it and paint furst

sorry i missed that in the edit. ill see if i can adjust it and re-upload.

About the only thing I can think of is a seat with a thin back that's pushed backwards