There was a leak in the system that caused the pressure switch to not allow the signal to the compressor solonoid from the computer, when I used the tool I was directly sending the signal to the solonoid.

@@gregsmobileautomotiveacrep1731 Ah ok, gotcha

I've never come across a parallel flow evaporator in a vehicle.

​@@gregsmobileautomotiveacrep1731Really? Hmm.. They look just like a parallel flow condenser, but smaller. I wasn't making a smart remark by the way. I really thought evaporators have a parallel flow design too.

No worries, I didn't take it that way. Evaporator cores have larger tubes that weave back and forth from inlet to outlet, some are double stacked, but are linked together in a way that makes it flushable. Condensers from the early days up to the late 90's early 00's were flushable because they were designed the same as evaporators and old radiators. As engine bays have gotten smaller and vehicle systems have gotten more efficient, the condenser design changed from a single large tube weaving back and forth to a flat ribbon with multiple passages that are smaller in diameter than a paperclip, to the more common parallel flow design where the inlet and outlet are both on the same side , both designs of modern condensers increase heat shedding efficiency, but make back flushing debris and contaminants impossible.

@@gregsmobileautomotiveacrep1731 Thank you for the explanation. I really appreciate it. 👍🏻

Im in the High Desert of Southern California.

I'm not sure, in my experience the compressor itself isn't usally the issue i.e. a complete lockup or piston failure, but mostly it's a control solonoid or computer driver that is the problem. Kind of similar to the magnetic coil failures on conventional compressors.

There was no fix, because this wasn't a troubleshooting video. This was an informational video discussing variable displacement compressors, and showing a tool that can be used to diagnose problems with them.

There wasn't any adjustment, I was simply showing the difference between a variable displacement compressor and a standard magnetic clutch compressor, and demonstrating a tool that can be used in diagnosing variable displacement compressors.

Rick, The new valve was the fix for this vehicle, but we ended up having to put a manually controlled ball valve in the line because the new valves that we ordered, 3 in total ALL leaked brand new from the box. The customer had me install the manual valve, and at the start of the warm season they close it and the dash mounted ac work well. In your case, I'm not familiar with how the temp controls are set up. If it's a slide cable, you might just need an adjustment, if it's a modulator type motor, it may be going out. Again, hard to say without having looked at it myself.

I’m going to look into this valve because I did evac, recharge, clutch is engaging in the compressor, low pressure line frosty but warm air coming from the dash.

No, I was saying Oscope, because that is my abbreviation of Oscilloscope, I was not referring to the AES wave Uscope which is their product name. Thank you for giving me the opportunity to clarify this.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/a4uleXubjZaikKs Here's a link to another KZbin guy who explains it very well. Hope this helps.

@@gregsmobileautomotiveacrep1731 Thanks

Yeah, I like this one for a quick check on a sensor or 5 volt reference or compression test, I have moved up to a 4 channel that works with my Autel scan tool for some more detailed diagnostics.

If you are talking about my test connectors and resistance decade box, I usally get things from AES Wave, DigiKey, or Amazon.

Very informative, new technology. This new compressor is driven by a digital modulated signal that turns it on and off based on its duty cycle.

If you are seeing one or more cylinders with no or low compression, it can be a couple of things, you could have failing piston rings, or a bent intake or exhaust valve, or a valve seat that is fouled. You could have a blown head gasket, or cracked head. In order to determine what is the cause, you will need to do some follow on testing with an actual compression test kit, doing both a dry and wet compression test on each cylinder will help determine if rings are to blame, doing a cylinder leak down test can help figure out if it is an exhuast/intake valve or head gasket issue. There's alot more than I can cover in a commebt section.

@@gregsmobileautomotiveacrep1731 1.) The Actual Compression test kit will measure the PSI level of that No or Low compression cylinder? you will want the PSI level to be 30 PSI or more than 30 PSI to considered good? 2.) What do you use to do a Cylinder Leak Down test? I have seen technicians poor water on the cars engine to see if the head gasket is leaking or sucking in the water. If the engine starting to running funny misfiring while applying water on the value cover and head gasket this means that its the head gasket or intake value?

@@gregsmobileautomotiveacrep1731 thanks for the help // I couldn't find a video of yours on how to test each gauge in the dashboard. How to test the oil gauge, temperature gauge, gas gauge, to check if they are good or bad how can you test them using what testing tool for cars 60's,70s, 80's, 90s gauges?

Will do, going forward most videos will be shot with my Sony cam so this wont be an issue. Thank you.

LoL, I am saying O scope as in oscilliscope. Thanks for the comment.

Greg's Mobile Automotive A/C Repair that’s what I figured lol kept messing with my ears haha. Thanks for sharing this was good

👍

I would look at the data stream on your diagnostic computer and see if the pcm or ecm is calling for the compressor to shut off, it could be a faulty driver, or a bad ecm input. Look to see if the rpms being reported to your scan tool match what is on the tachometer if it has one, if the ecm is reporting crazy high rpms, it will cut the compressor off like a wide open throttle.