I never seen a sodium fixture use a fluorescent starter before!
@ducac-045728 күн бұрын
That EOL lamp is whats breaking your fixture. Replace it
@sylvainmichel8659Ай бұрын
Le starter est en court circuit,les.bilames restent collé.il faut changer le starter.
@V530-15ICRАй бұрын
Cool! One of my favourites.
@V530-15ICRАй бұрын
Which year was this manufactured, if you know?
@SLOHKB10Ай бұрын
Beginning of the 80s, I don't remember the exact year.
@V530-15ICRАй бұрын
Can you record startup of this?
@mrlampАй бұрын
Suurin osa on vielä paikallaan. Tuosta kohdan 1:08 Froggystä en muista, vaikka olenkin tuosta ohi mennyt monta kertaa...
@mr.lumix93Ай бұрын
I also have a light bulb with the same problem, but the spirals of the lamps are glowing. If the author of the video is interested. What kind of fluorescent lamps exist in our country and not only
@chihofung6860Ай бұрын
Yep, average LED experience. Besides this, the driver chip or a capacitor of the right side is bad, or there is a crack at somewhere of the power rail.
@RonaldoSilva-tn8in2 ай бұрын
𝗘𝘀𝘁𝗮́ 𝗺𝗲𝘁𝗮𝗱𝗲 𝘁𝘂𝗯𝗼 𝗱𝗲 𝗹𝗲𝗱 💡
@aryanmhcen60052 ай бұрын
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
@RonaldoSilva-tn8in2 ай бұрын
Lâmpada airam floralux 40 Watts 💡
@lnf4530-b7s2 ай бұрын
Noisy
@lnf4530-b7s2 ай бұрын
What yellow starter
@symboly10422 ай бұрын
Lovely SLO fixture I have one similar to this.
@RonaldoSilva-tn8in3 ай бұрын
Suporte de partida solto 😮
@RonaldoSilva-tn8in3 ай бұрын
Bom vídeo like💡😉
@RonaldoSilva-tn8in3 ай бұрын
Iluminação pública 125 Watts 💡57 anos
@leejenwin19376 ай бұрын
This tube has a gas contamination - hence non-ionisation of the cathodes on preheat and a characteristic very dull red glow. Classic EOL occurs when either or both cathodes have exhausted their emissive coating onto the tube wall, which is a very obvious sight whether the tube is switched on or off. In classic EOL the bare tungsten filament fails to ionise and takes on extra power causing a bright orange glow. There would still be rectification across the tube in this case too, not zero striking. You can attempt to "revive" the lamp on HF this sometimes works.
@symboly10423 ай бұрын
Seems to be more common in T12 tubes with my limited sample size of three with one having this issue vs around 40 T8 tubes with one also having same kind of fault
@mr.lumix93Ай бұрын
It also happens with us as with T12 and T8
@RonaldoSilva-tn8in6 ай бұрын
Starter tungsram não acesa nada ? 😒
@OscarOscarmonet6 ай бұрын
How safe this light on ra4?
@theodordontuofficial7 ай бұрын
Are you sure it can be used for black and white printing? Because when the DUKA 50 is switched on, the light is not red but orange. Many thanks.
@theodordontuofficial7 ай бұрын
With the first switch the situation is clear, it's for the intensity adjustment. Do you know what the second switch is used for, the one that moves in steps? If this sulphur bulb burns out, what can we use instead? Is there an alternative?
@fansloverz8 ай бұрын
looks like originally it has its refractor, also do you use ac or dc current to start this?
@fansloverz8 ай бұрын
Where you got this?
@SLOHKB108 ай бұрын
I found it from an old abandoned caravan
@fansloverz8 ай бұрын
@@SLOHKB10 a caravan? What a cool discovery
@lnf4530-b7s2 ай бұрын
@@SLOHKB10what yellow starter
@fansloverz8 ай бұрын
One question, does it works with an electronic starter?
@SLOHKB108 ай бұрын
I don't believe so, but I haven't tested.
@fansloverz8 ай бұрын
@@SLOHKB10 okay
@hansoverbeeke5442Ай бұрын
It depend if the electrodes are ,live, like a standard flourescent lamp or just like those hid mercury replacement sodium lamps with integrated starter
@fansloverzАй бұрын
@@hansoverbeeke5442 okay
@VICTORMONDAINMONDAIN8 ай бұрын
Cool😊😊😊
@VICTORMONDAINMONDAIN8 ай бұрын
Cool😊😊😊😊
@VICTORMONDAINMONDAIN8 ай бұрын
Cooll 😊😊😊😊❤❤❤
@hansoverbeeke54428 ай бұрын
With the warmup sequence does it have neon or xenon? Starts really fast warmup too😊
@fansloverz8 ай бұрын
thats a weird lamp fixture!
@rafaf7778 ай бұрын
very nice, what’s the wiring diagram?
@hansoverbeeke54428 ай бұрын
Never see this. is it low or high pressure sodium? Cool little light though😊😊
@SLOHKB108 ай бұрын
Yes, it's some kind of LPS.
@mrlamp8 ай бұрын
I have noticed same on 15w T8 tubes. They can turn on instantly even with starters!
@worldwidehidcollectorusa35198 ай бұрын
This is due to the very low arc voltage drop of only 55V or so and being exposed to the 230V OCV from the line voltage.
@worldwidehidcollectorusa35198 ай бұрын
Is the first fixture one of your 100V 50Hz pendant fixtures?
@mrlamp8 ай бұрын
Nice lights! I got myself an Asea-Skandia mercury vapor fixture today!
@averageslytherinperson615411 ай бұрын
Tube is so EOL that it doesnt even start on overdrive
@symboly1042 Жыл бұрын
I think it might have lost its vacuum.
@fansloverz8 ай бұрын
lost vacumm doesnt last long to shine
@symboly10428 ай бұрын
I had a 58W Osram tube loose vacumm, and it behaved just like in this video no shine, only glow from the filaments, same clicking pattern with the starter as well.
@fansloverz8 ай бұрын
@@symboly1042maybe the ballast watt is the exact same as your tube???
@symboly10423 ай бұрын
@@fansloverz yes it was and i think it lasted about 1-2 minutes flickering if i remember correctly
@fansloverz3 ай бұрын
@@symboly1042 wow thats indeed very long, mostly i saw Flourescent tubes lost vacuum just glows for like seconds and not minutes
@djm5k Жыл бұрын
Preheat is so obsolete in this day and age
@q3dev Жыл бұрын
it's cool but i would rather sit in a room with electronic ballasts
@filippocara0510 Жыл бұрын
Not always, if you need to turn on ad off the light frequently i would choose a preheat ballast because it is less harmful to the electrodes and the tube will last longer
@q3dev Жыл бұрын
@@filippocara0510 still electronic ballasts with filament preheating will provide longer lifetime
@djm5k Жыл бұрын
@@filippocara0510 that’s why you use a programmed start ballast for F32T8 lamps which were the replacement for F40T12’s
@filippocara0510 Жыл бұрын
@@djm5k i love programmed start, in fact all my fixtures have it.I didn't get why you mentioned that 2 specific types of tube, preheat and programmed start are the easyer on the electrodes on every diameter and lenght of tubes, not only in the ones that you mentioned.
@worldwidehidcollectorusa3519 Жыл бұрын
Do you have the 18W chokes connected in parallel? If so, they should give a reasonable current to these 28W FCL30 circline fluorescent lamps since a single 220V-240V 18W choke can run a 28W 2D lamp, a 26W PLC/PLT lamp or a 30W T8 tube decently well, which all run at essentially half the current of a pair of 28W or 30W FCL30 circline fluorescent lamps running in series with each other as those lamps have an operating current of roughly 300mA. If you are using a pair of 18W T8 chokes in parallel to drive a single 28W or 30W FCL30 circline fluorescent lamp, you would be overdriving the lamp significantly since that setup would push roughly 760 mA through the lamp rather than the correct 600mA through the lamp. Alternatively, you can use a pair of 30W T8 fluorescent tube choke ballasts connected in parallel to run a series pair of these 28W FCL30 circline fluorescent lamps since a single 30W T8 fluorescent tube choke ballast is also specified to run a pair of 15W T8 fluorescent tubes in a series pair as well.
@worldwidehidcollectorusa3519 Жыл бұрын
Nice to see you on youtube, Froggy05. I am Worldwidehidcollectorusa from LG by the way. Is the circline lamp a Universal White lamp or a 3500K lamp?
@SLOHKB10 Жыл бұрын
Hi, I know you from LG. The lamp is Philips 33/640 coloured TL-E lamp made in Thailand in 2007.
@worldwidehidcollectorusa3519 Жыл бұрын
What an interesting setup for this Japanese circline fluorescent pendant fixture. I have gotten one of these fixtures imported to North America and changed the 100v 60Hz ballasts to 120v 60Hz ballasts for safe operation on domestic North American 120v 60Hz mains. How were you able to obtain your fixture?
@SLOHKB10 Жыл бұрын
I wish we had 30/28W T9 circline ballasts in Europe... This fixture came from a Yahoo auction and I bought it by Buyee's proxy service
@worldwidehidcollectorusa3519 Жыл бұрын
@@SLOHKB10 Other things you can try doing to run these FCL30 circline lamps properly is to connect a pair of 15w T8 series choke ballasts in parallel if you want to run one lamp, but if you want to run a pair of lamps in series, you could also use a pair of 30w T8 series choke ballasts in parallel. So far, the 58w T8 series choke ballast slightly overdrives the series pair of lamps. If you want to get spot on current for the lamps, you could also connect a pair of 18w T8 series choke ballasts in parallel to run both FCL30 circline lamps in series.
@SLOHKB10 Жыл бұрын
@@worldwidehidcollectorusa3519 I know, the current with this ballast is about 1A higher than it should be (6.2A) when I metered it.
@worldwidehidcollectorusa3519 Жыл бұрын
@@SLOHKB10 Ideally, these Japanese FCL30 circline lamps have an operating current of 610mA just so you know. If you are using series choke ballasts without power factor correction capacitors, the line current is the lamp current. In an ideal case, you want to have a choke ballast that draws around 610mA from the mains.
@林穎佑-x2k Жыл бұрын
magnetic ballast !?
@SLOHKB10 Жыл бұрын
yes
@林穎佑-x2k Жыл бұрын
This magnetic ballast,not preheat start !?
@chihofung6860 Жыл бұрын
I am totally not surprised to see those poor quality LED lanterns. This is the result on such action for "considering the environment" but producing more electronic wastes.
@mrm3gaman4463 жыл бұрын
Where are the lights located at?
@SLOHKB103 жыл бұрын
In Kuusankoski (Kouvola), more info: calm.iki.fi/tolpat/kuva/12424
@SLOHKB103 жыл бұрын
0:15 täytyi tietenkin kuvata myös melko hämärän oloinen Isku -kyltti.