@@ryand2468 Do you know what caused the 175a fuse to blow? And has that been rectified?

@aguyandhisgarage mistakes were made while jumping it, mistakenly put negative lead on the black wire of the bus so both leads were on positive

@@ryand2468 in that case I would say it's okay to use the 200a to get you going, but you will need to replace it as soon as possible after. Your local motor factors will probably have one in stock or get one next day for you

@@aguyandhisgarage cheers very helpful video

@ryand2468 thank you

@@snapurittmd5662 if it starts then yes you should be fine to drive to a garage to get the codes read

You're welcome 😁

@@Bruceeej I've not looked for years but usually you have to buy them second hand

I like to get my money's worth out of them 😂

Yeah that's true, and with my own I do the same. However some people would never know unless a light comes on their dash telling them that they need to be changed 😂

Thank you, hopefully it was of some use for you too. I'm currently experimenting with different release days and times, I don't think a Tuesday afternoon is the most popular 😂

@@williamkennedy5492 100% agree

I find that all the brands have aspects that are really good for maintenance and others that are really bad, I guess it's always a compromise. Most people can afford the car but not the maintenance, so they all get shagged 🤣

@@aguyandhisgarage Innit! Fair point. Like the Avensis 100k mi Timing Chain replacement... who's gonna do that? Not many I don't expect. Been reading a bit lately about the "recommended service intervals" and it's almost like the manufacturers want cars to be broken...like they make money from selling new cars and spare parts or something.... Ya'd think after 100 odd years of engine building they'd have it down by now.

Yep, they are definitely in the business of making money. Years ago, I worked for Cummins in their design department and we would target 1 million miles for the heavy duty truck engines. Same material and technologies are available for cars. The biggest problem where I live however is that rust is the killer of cars, no point having a engine good for a million miles if the body is rusted out after 200k. Coatings have gotten a bit better over the years but it would not add a huge cost to galvanize and paint everything from new.

@@aguyandhisgarage That's incredible! Wow. I've heard of Kenworths going around 2 or 3 times, and of a VW camper that had rolled over twice... We have a 20yo Avensis. I've seen those engines go 800k miles. I did some counting the other day...at our current usage rate it will take another 60 years for that engine to reach 600,000 miles. I don't know will mine or the car's bodywork survive that long!

Yeah the Japanese know how to build a car!

@@captainbeyond4350 I'll admit that I would never personally own a BMW

@@Tahaolsun Thank you, please be sure to check out the assembly video too!

I wouldn't say I was slagging off, but I understand what you are saying. I was more stating facts and giving my point of view. If you had some problems with fitment issues would you feel the same? If you bought some Nike trainers and there were quality issues would it be forgiven due to their years of experience? In my opinion companies need to be held accountable for products and service, I for one always strive to give the best service possible. In the end Richard's Chassis supplied me with a new bracket for the exhaust and a partial refund as they could see that there were errors. It took a bit longer to get the resolution than I would have liked but in the end we came to a mutual agreement and hopefully they can improve their quality control because of it. If I was supplying chassis and there were fitment issues I would want to know about it so that it could be rectified. There are plenty of good reviews of RC, this was just my personal experience on this occasion. Hopefully everyone can weigh up multiple reviews and make their own mind up on cost Vs quality.

@@aguyandhisgarage really? you made a youtube video saying exactly that,🙄 of course its annoying if you think its bad take legal action don't winge on here now people who are half way thu a build are now worried, because of your little rant, you got handful of comments on here the one from BR was a galvanized problem not chassis nothing more ok he had to wait thats life, we not all perfect like you, thimk before you post.

Thanks for sharing

@@1must723 you mean you shorted between the battery +ve and the body of the van? Does the ignition come on and is there any clicking if you try to start the van?

@@aguyandhisgarage a spanner just touched the live terminal i have just checked the bus bar fuses across the top of battery all good and no clicking only hazarder lights and locks work and alarm all lights are out no dash info

@@1must723 if it only touched the live and nothing else I can't think of what it may have damaged as it has not shorted across anything. Have you tried checking your main fuse box and the fuse box under the bonnet for to make sure all are good?

@@aguyandhisgarage ok thanks will do only happened late last afternoon today i will check over them thanks you for getting back to me will let you no how it goes

@@plasterman Hi there all fuses are ok in engine bay one of my friends is auto electrician he is coming round Thursday will post as i get sorted peace all :-)

@@martin6123 hope it helped you out!

@@gavb85 if you need any help or advice just let me know 💪🏻

@@aguyandhisgarage guna change the slave tomorrow and go from there

@@phoenixdundee I think the ford design is more dated but also heavier duty. It is not too bad to do providing you have the big torque wrench

@@vikash-MSC please see my reply to your previous comment

At the top and leading from it will be a hose into the sludge discharge

@@vikash-MSC in the sensor block at the top, and there should be a flexible hose leading from it to the sludge discharge. To test it usually put the feed water hose onto it and open the solenoid valve, this check should be done periodically. It may be that you have another issue with the purifier which is causing this alarm.

Sir please help the alarm here WMS system fauly too much water

You need to check with the a OBD reader you buy what cars it's compatible with. Generally the more expensive the more cars it will be able to read and you will be able to update the software to keep it relevant for newer cars that will be released

@@MarkChalmers-em3xp sounds nice, would be good to see some pictures. Does the side tank fit underneath the tub? Are you planning to use it for water or fuel? Think my next step is to repair my tub and order a new bulkhead and then get them fitted and painted. After that I hope the rest of the build will progress quite quickly

@@aguyandhisgarage Its a britpart 45 inline fueltank under the rear right corner. You fasten it in 2 places, to the rear cross member and the tub so need to do with tub on. I bought a side locker for which i originally intended to fit in the left corner but in the end decided to put on the side as i may put a water tank in the rear corner. I think you should put the tub on so you know where you may get clashes.... measured it a million time before i took the angle grinder to it! Only issue i have at present as the door springs open and need to remove and shim out a little! Got loads of photos and happy to share... not sure i can do it here....

@@MarkChalmers-em3xp yeah, I will get the tub fitted first and then start mocking up underslung tanks etc. You could always email me? [email protected]

@@aguyandhisgarage have sent a couple of emails with photos. If you have any questions just let me know….

@@Familyfriendsaudio I shop around a lot looking for quality Vs price. It all depends on what you're after I guess? Some parts will only be available in a used condition

@@ChristopherBennett-t2d it's definitely something I will look into, but then I assume you need to run electric fans due to space issues?

@@John-e5g4d thanks

@@robertfack3082 thanks for your input. I will definitely bare it in mind when I come to assembling the spare parts I will be taking with me

@@mad05c Have you tried a IR thermometer to check whether the hot temperature reading is accurate? Temperature transducers can be calibrated differently and so may not be the correct one for your gauge. As for the bench test, all I can think is that perhaps your earth terminal has broken internally and you are making an earth through the body of the gauge when fitted. You could easily try to test this theory. If not let me know and I will have a deeper think about it.

@@aguyandhisgarage Can I simply test it with my car battery? Battery positive to top gauge terminal and then would I connect the bottom gauge terminal to the negative battery or to the frame for a ground?

@@mad05c yes you could do. Connect it to the negative terminal on the gauge and then try to an exposed metal part of the body and see if there's any difference. Just make sure you know which terminal is the positive on the gauge

@@paulbarnard5267 I guess it may depend on what part of the country you come from 😂

@@aguyandhisgarage Probably. I live near Salisbury how about you 😀

@@paulbarnard5267 I am tucked away in mid Wales far from civilization haha

@@grahames9228 absolutely agree, however to some extent extra weight is inevitable for safety/security. With good planning I can hopefully keep the centre of gravity down low and not compromise on range/worry of getting stuck.

@@trinityharbour7054 there are plenty of sellers if you do a Google search or on ebay. I think I got mine from DIY.dieselshop

@@aguyandhisgarage thanks! Great video, by the way.

@@trinityharbour7054 thank you!

@@mattluszczak8095 they are not available to buy new but there's always a supply of second hand and reconditioned for sale.

@@matthewwhitney8103 I've not really been tracking it that tightly. It must be around £2k for everything including the ancillaries.

That's pretty good investment the first trucks lasted 20-30 years . Yours is looking spot on 👍🏻

@@matthewwhitney8103 Thank you. As long as they are still selling diesel in 30 year's time I hope this one will still be going strong

Stay Tuned, I am currently waiting on a bulkhead but hopefully soon I'll be able to carry on with this build!

@@lucywithers2488 Hi Lucy, I do some work for customers on my side but my main job is fixing marine engines on ships. Currently I have no availability for at least 5 weeks. From what you have described, providing that the clutch is correctly bled then it could be an issue with the release bearing or spring. In which case the gearbox would have to be removed and I would recommend changing the whole clutch assembly. Depending on what clutch you go for this should cost you around the £600 mark (providing no other issues are found) so it may be worth trying to find another garage. Sorry I could not be of more help but the timing is currently quite bad for me. Feel free to contact me for anymore issues in the future however, always happy to help. Based in Mid Wales if you're close by. Cheapest things to check though is whether the clutch is properly bled (a job I believe anyone can do themselves with a friend and plenty of vids on how to do it).

Thank you

kek

what model of purifier is it exactly? and is the feed pump controlled by VFD?

​@@aguyandhisgarage Gea westfalia 4000, our feed pump does not use VFD

GEA westfalia 4000, our feed pump is not controller by VFD​@@aguyandhisgarage

A new bush is included in the overhaul kit for the spindle

@@ryanpoultney839 are you loosing fluid? Does the clutch pedal get stuck down?

@@aguyandhisgaragehi, I’m not loosing fluid and yes the pedal hit the floor when pressed and doesn’t return, if I lift the pedal and get someone to press the pedal down the slave cylinder pushes out but the pedal then stay to the floor. Where the slave cylinder pushes against the clutch fork you can see that it can’t push the fork forward ?

@@ryanpoultney839 I would try and bleed the clutch first. If the fork is stuck in then the clutch must be permanently disengaged? In which case yes you will have to remove the gearbox to replace the clutch

@@aguyandhisgaragethank you for your replies doesn’t look like it’s the master cylinder then ?

@@ryanpoultney839 it could be, but if it's not loosing fluid and there has been no way of air entering the system then it's not likely.

@@ilhamalfaridzi4629 have you tested the water flow through the water block?

@@aguyandhisgarage yes sir already test and pressure 2 bar when opening selenoid valve by manual..even i adjut timer for total ejection until 3s but still same

@@ilhamalfaridzi4629 and before starting a cycle, if you press stop to initiate a ejection, can you hear a thud from the bowl during ejection?

@@aguyandhisgarage no..i cant hear thud when total ejection coming, does height of bowl also effect desludging??

@@ilhamalfaridzi4629 there's no reason why the height of the bowl should change? You could try and increase the pressure to 3 bar when valve V3 is open and see if that makes a difference?