That's a cool technique, I never heard of it! It might be my lack of experience talking here, but I'm failing to see the downsides to this, compared to a double strand rappel + passing the knot. the fact that it's only one strand means less friction, sure, but is that the only problematic part?

I wondered about this. Yours is the first I saw on all videos.

Personally I would do a knot block and rappel on the good strand. Once both people are down you can pull the damaged strand to retrieve the rope. This way you could avoid communication issues of when the 2nd person can start the rappel. This method would also make it impossible to pull the wrong strand and get the isolation knot stuck in the anchor.

I’m into it. That’s a good idea. Thanks for the tip

Too short, confuses more than it helps sorry. If you upload saftey instructions also talk about what can go wrong.

There is no need for load lifters on an HMG pack.

We have the same helmet! Nice choice :)

Thank you

Is the first one through the carabiner technically two half hitches + overhand and not really a mule overhand?

ugh another rock climber

Normally it's unpractical to redirect the footsling at the belay loop, but it might lift the rope up enough to move the upper prusik.

Wow, never thought of this

Ha! This issue was a total blind spot for me! Since I always learned using some form rope capture device at the waist, I never once encountered this issue! The very first time I climbed a rope, it was free hanging under a ledge. Maybe, 15 feet tall, the ledge was on a the side of a hill in a public, riverside park. We were playing avy beacon hide and seek. Fun day overall.

The issue that you identified with advancing friction hitch up the rope one handed, is a great argument for building the waist prusik from a VT hitch, a locker, and a PAS.

Thanks for the info. I used to climb and that's when my elbow issues started so I stopped. Now I mountain bike a lot and I have climber's and tennis elbow. Doing these exercises and stretches has helped.

This is dangeous. Isobutane contains about 20% propane. When a new canister is used in cold weather, most of the isobutane is burnt off leaving mostly propane left. The reason it’s dangerous to then consolidate these 1/4 full canister is because you’re using a temperature differential to force the remaining fuel into a canister. That canister is now filled with mostly propane. Propane has much higher pressures at room temperatures or higher than isobutane. Those canisters are not designed to withstand the pressures of propane in those high percentages. So you risk having a canister burst while using a stove.

Thank you for the video.

Another great video. Very excellent

i’ve been looking at getting a pair of these. i moved to alaska a couple years ago and in my opinion hiking shoes just dont cut it. im tired of rolling my ankles and having my toes jam into the shoes on the descent. they seem liked they would do what i need, and as a bonus i can get crampons and open up new seasons for getting out there.

I had to do this in real life, My partner for that day (who was less experienced than I realized) went first and somehow had a kink jam in their ATC and couldn't free it. (Yes, I know there are many things that could have been tried had they known a bit more than they did.). They were hanging in space free from the rock. I prusiked down, transferred their load to my prusik system, and together we wrestled the amazingly tight jam free so that they could continue their descent. I transferred to a rappel for the rest of my descent. I didn't have any special cords with me and used the thin Mammut contact slings for everything. In order to increase security (among other things I was worried about the system supporting the weight of both of us) I descended with three prussiks, one for a foot loop and two for the harness.

This is all Greek to me. Unless we consider a party of three covering glacier terrain with the end and middle climbers tied in and simul-climbing as end roping. In that case, this is all very similar. On rock, I never considered using this technique. It is neat.

gotta be a faster easier way to get down or up if ur partner is dead weight or if u got sos just wait for search and rescue to come set up another rope to then descend

That feeling when you are ascending and you notice both your friction hitches are sliding. I guess we going down now 💀

I was taught that three to know were as such: Autoblock for a backup. Klemheist for accenting. Prusik for everything else.

Is there a video on how you tie the sliding knot for your chalk bag?

Who brings a shovel that size on a hike?

Is there any of these for addults? I mean that are good for climbing and biking

Yup, I’ve used this as a hard as 5.9. An additional trick you don’t mention is to place the weaker climber at the short tie-in. Then they both physically and mentally experience a more traditional belay. Meanwhile, the leader who will swing is the end climber. If you are carrying a team pack, the short tie-in climber gets the pack. If you know there is a crux section of a specific length (ie not continuous), you use a longer than 60m rope in order to separate the climbers by the length of the crux section; 10m is often a good length for end and short climber visibility and communication without both being a steep step together. You can also consider back clipping gear to potentially limit swing danger and possibly reduce force in the event of a fall by the end climber. Ultimately, I prefer twins if you will need another line to rappel, despite the rope management challenge. But short roping is a great tool for 3 on easier terrain. Thanks for making this video.

Great video guide! I was hoping you could share the size you wear in each of your shoes? Sizing can vary massively even within the same brand so would be really helpful! Thanks

Thanks for the info! Any reason for using figure 8 on a bight vs the inline figure 8 or a butterfly?

Very interesting, thanks for the video. Might sound like heresy, but is cross loading really a potential issue with lightweight kids? (Obviously it is with adults)

this is such an underrated topic

Got it also from weighted pull ups ;-(

That'll hurt to take a fall or abseil for any lengthy amount of time

Thanks for the detailed route explanation! This one has been on my radar for a couple of years now.

I would think class 4 has exposure that generally wants rope protection. This seemed more just geared to class 3 climbing.

I bought The Osprey Mutant 38 as the pack has allot of similarities to this one but a a price point i could better justify. I do, certainly long to the picket pockets and kinda envy those crampon pouches. I have a friend that that has bean using the prism for a wile as his go to medium sized pack. But, I think my pack carries loads way better than the Prism. I use Mutant as my crag bag to compliment my rope bag w/ integrated rope tarp. My friend does nothing of the sort.

Most climbing that I do, around me, is single pitch with a reasonable ledge at the top and often a tree to sling around. Extended anchors are my bread and butter. I almost always sling a tree with the third method that you showed. I also use it to fix lines down to a ledge when climbing down from a stable ledge to a somewhat sketchy ledge for the top of the climb. Coming from my days as a successful youth grappler, I am of the opinion that the best technique is one that is the easiest to apply in many situation. The continuous practice in this technique results in a degree of competency that helps to ensure good outcomes. This is why I like to apply the bowline and not faff around with something like the Connecticut tree hitch. It's a core climbing knot that any climber should already know. It's the same knot that I use when rigging a Joshua Tree style extended anchor. I use it to tie back in when I clean anchors before being lowered off of chains. It is relatively easy to have partners inspect due to its core knot statues. The only time I might consider something more fancy is if I was with an exceedingly competent team and was trying to do something ambitious and wanted to be super fast. It would then need to be a technique that we practiced together and could all check each other on. I like that walk around and BFK idea! Super simple and works with how I like to build rope work systems (using already known knots).

I’d love content on how to estimate the time needed to complete an objective in the Alpine. Currently struggling to plan that accurately. I know there are a hundred of factors, most of which cannot be predicted, but there must be techniques you employ when scheduling your trips

I recommend MacLeod’s video on this topic, not that antagonist training and stretching are bad, but it’s insufficient without daily pulling exercises to make tendon regrow stronger

Super clear and to the point. Thank you!

Very interesting backpack. My daughter has been using it for 4 years, last month it was used as a float filled with empty bottles and a dry bag. We crossed the mouth of a river and then reached a lonely beach walking and swimming between shallows and little islands. Many companies have backpacks in their catalog for younger hikers, often it is money badly spent. With Deuter there are no bad surprises.

just bought mine! excited.

I use a eye to eye prusic as well but for top rope solo, it’s a very similar technique to what arborist use called a Double or moving rope. I noticed you used a VT prusic for your manner of descending a already weighted rope and you were sticking a bunch when you were trying to release it. The VT isn’t very smooth or good in that manner. I would suggest checking out Knotouris channel on youtube. he has a ton of variations of prusic knots that work much better. I even changed mine up a VT to a Catalist hitch after trying multiples. You even find that certain ropes work better with certain knots

I have recently left my hand tied nylon prusick as bail gear. I was thinking of using the opportunity to get something rated in case I ever have to trust it in a rescue situation (like decending loaded rope, but mainly less critical situations such as transfering weight with a back up). Any recomendations without going overboard? My original thinking was to get a simple premade rated prusick (which I guess is nylon).

Great video. I have 2 2P tents, a single-wall Marmot Hammer and a double-wall TNF Mountain 25. I rarely use the TNF because I’m always solo and the Marmot is about 1/3 the weight of the TNF if I leave the vestibule & footprint at home. Condensation can be somewhat mitigated by opening both vents and leaving the door unzipped at the top, but as you said the tradeoff is a colder tent inside, you have to wear more gear and aren’t quite as comfortable. But I can deal with that, I generally don’t do anything but sleep in the tent so the gear comes off and I get in the bag. Though I’m camping at lower elevations (<4K) here in NW Maine so big howlers don’t pop up and keep me tent-bound for days. But the biggest problem related to condensation with the Hammer is the size. With an 84” long floor, even a 6’ winter bag will be pressed against the walls at both ends due to the loft. I’ve been in mine at -15F, using my Feathered Friends -25F bag, and every time I moved during the night a snowstorm cascaded down on me. The shell fabric is waterproof Pertex so it didn’t affect the bag, but having it fall on my face woke me up. I was almost uncomfortably warm in the bag so tightening down the face opening or covering up with a buff or something wasn’t a solution. People I’ve known with mountaineering experience would have said you put your pack under the pad and sleep with your feet elevated to help with swelling, that would probably work but it shouldn’t be necessary. Neither should bringing the vestibule and putting my pad through the open tent door to keep both ends away from the walls. Most 2P mountaineering tents I’ve seen range from 82-88” in floor length (subtract 4-6” at the spot on the walls where the bag touches), maybe they need to increase that to 96” to allow for bags with 10” plus of loft at each end. That alone would make a 6’ bag at least 92” long. It might be worth it to try carrying the TNF, even if the usable area isn’t any bigger the condensation should be much less. Anyway, I know I went off on a bit of a tangent there LOL. How do you like that EB Katabatic? I’ve been interested in it for a while, I don’t *need* it but then again I don’t need the 10 pairs of snowshoes in my gear room, either LOL

Why don’t you do an experiment for us. See how many times you can reuse a container before it starts leaking or malfunctioning. Make a new video with the results.

What are some potential applications of this knot?

Going to introduce my 3 year old niece to climbing this weekend... She's not very adventurous about physical activity but is excited to go with me, so I'll just try to make it a fun experience as much as I can. Want to leave her with a good impression!

is this enough to hike lobuche?