Good day it's Isaac can you please help me cos I used to cut threads on my centre lathe but now it doesn't wanna to change pitch it only allows to cut 1 pitch what can be wrong

I think you could have achieved a better grind if you had put the holding ring on the inside rear of the jaws.

My thoughts at the end regarding your comment..” I think I’ve cracked it”.. Be careful what you wish for…lol

Wow you are smart and a good explainer. That is a lot of work. Well worth it im sure since drying it without removing the carpet sounds like a snail race. Did you notice lots of droplets falling or was most of the water invisibly running from the windshield to the floor? I saw a used xc60 today and it had a damp carpet after a big rain as well. I dont think you caused the issue. Surely the glass would not unseal just from that. It's probably a factory defective seal. I imagine but im not sure that the air pressure from closing the door pushes a lot more than the blue tak or hands ever would. (For a piece of glass that is supposed to stay glued in a crash)

If we layout sensor and data collection we can form a boat of imaginary structure then generate dynamics fly by just like real drone flying as remote sensing like real patrol boat include even instant reaction using mp4 and sonic force to response to needed demand instantly which is like omni present omni potent og god vision

ba\jbdbbbdbd

Prooves you can't make chicken salad from chicken crap!!!,

Hi Samuel great to hear and see other people come up with ideas and glad you got the rubber seal sorted cheers.

Hi Samuel just came across your video, going to watch them all now and wanted to say thx for the mention and my rubber seal still good to this day :) cheers.

Well done, what a fun project. Did you form any opinion if the thyristor failed and zapped the UJT or vice versa? My electronics never extended to UJT's so that led to some educational reads.

Great video Samuel, nice little circuit to fault find but still not easy when you don't have the schematic. How concerned would you be of receiving a shock from it?

Never heard of a Repair Cafe, so did some research after watching your video. Discovered there's one not far from me. Have to pay a visit. I like fixing things.

My several modern, and older, fencers pulse at about 1 second. 6-8 kV is about right, also.

Electric fences do indeed go off every about 1.5 seconds. That sounds about right. Any more delay than that, and the animal can possibly escape or get tangled and keep getting shocked.

Hi, we had the same thing happen to our Deckel FP-2. No harm done !

Hi Samuel. Tailstock quill can be hardchromed to add material and make it oversized. Then re-engraved or laser etched. You can then have the tailstock barrel bored on a horizontal borer. Unfortunately this is the world of machine tools in the UK, there are a lot of dogs (bad machines) out there and plenty of shady dealers looking to move bad machines on. I don't know how much you paid for the lathe but you'd be looking at £3k+ to grind the lathe. Personally i think it's probably uneconomical. Gamet bearings in your headstock are a special size and not available from timken. Colchester who owned Gamet did it on purpose. If you're looking for a trusted supplier give me an email and i'll pass some contacts on in the industry who only deal in quality used tools, not worn out tools.

i'm no electrical engineer but could you not have put some kapton tape between the caps and the resistor ?

Ok, I posted a comment on the first video, but after watching all 3 parts, and reading every single comment (it's entirely possible I missed a few), I am scratching my head as to how not a single person, in watching you vanish down this rabbit hole, thought it prudent to try recapping the basics with you. Occum's Razor appears to have been eschewed, in favor of watching you turn all of your 10mm bar stock into swarf. So, now I'm forced to tsktsk the regular viewers. _<finger wagging, disapprovingly>_ Since I'm still over a year late regarding commenting on this video, I can only hope someone has since pointed you toward measuring runout on your spindle, and your 3-jaw chuck (I don't know if you have a 4-jaw or a collet chuck for verification purposes), but all of the calculations you ran through seem to indicate (on top of the tool/work deflection you already confirmed) significant runout needing addressed. Perhaps a bolt/bolts have been under/over-tightened, perhaps the chuck, spindle, or mounting bracket need to be reground, perhaps one of the jaws is dinged or dented or uneven. We won't know which issue(s) might exist until you can get an indicator mounted up and begin chasing down leads. Have you been able to verify that your toolpost is correctly leveled on center? It's not likely to be the sole cause of your plight, but it could be 0.001-0.005mm above/below centerline, and/or even tilted at an angle (due to wear in your compound and/or cross-slide ways). Since nobody suggested these very basic sanity checks be conducted, I'm concerned...

Accepting that I'm commenting a year and a half late, have you since worked out from where the taper you were cutting originated? If so, then you can just disregard the rest of this comment. Do you have the tools necessary to measure the runout on that 3-jaw chuck (or perhaps your spindle)? I thought I was detecting the slightest bit of runout at the end of the work as it spun, before you began threading. I can't be certain, as there isn't much uncut time in the video with the work spinning freely and you aren't threading, and what I'm seeing might be actually be video artifacting, or the camera might not be 100% stable. Alternatively, when doing a facing operation, does it cleanly smooth out the surface all the way to the very center of the work, or is there still a nub remaining (it might actually be incredibly slight)? I'm asking because that would indicate your tool holder is slightly beneath or proud of the center line. One or both of these scenarios would definitely contribute to your lathe inadvertently cutting a taper.

Removing material from the grinding wheel will compromise its integrity. Good luck there. Simply dismantling the motor and truing the little edges on the axle between two centers on the lathe would do away with stuffing around with paper gaskets. Turn up some decent flanges and center bushes to fit the axle and any wheel will run true after you dress it.

You disassembled the motor why not true and balance the rotor on the lathe

The Harrison AA (slightly more complicated version of the M300) I take care of had this rotary selector seized as well. In my case, there was about 0.005" of a varnish like substance coating everything below the oil level. Kerosene didn't touch it, but acetone and a brush took it right off. I had to remove the box, but didn't need to disassemble any of the shafts. Don't let the acetone sit, as Delrin and acetone are not good friends. Also of note, on the AA model once you get the driven shafts off and the vertical rod out of the way, there is room to get the box out by sliding toward the bed without funny angle wrestling.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/nXS4nH2vmbigmqM.

Can the apron be removed with the slides still in place? Get yourself some workshop rubber gloves, they sre fsr more durable, snd grippy. They can be reused.

I have been down this road myself. All your problems are where the plate meets the grinder shaft step, as you said in the beginning. The shaft fit on the arbor is less than ideal. The only way you will get it even close is to buy a grinding wheel with a 32mm center hole, then make an arbor that fits neatly on the shaft and neatly inside the wheel at the full depth of the wheel. Then you will get the length of the shaft / arbor supporting the wheel. Only then you might be close to getting a balanced grinder. Hope this helps, Cheers

May I ask a question. With the cross slide and the compound slide. How much distance do they cover with one revolution of each slides wheel/ handle. I have a m300 myself and its imperial inches and I can't handle it. I need to make a metric readout to replace the existing one.

Question. I have an M300 which, when turning 8 full revolutions on the main saddle gives me 19.6mm. We are trying to work out if its a metric or imperial setup. The lathe has metric thread cutting but the closest unit of measure I have is that one full revolution of the saddle wheel seems to do 0.1 inchs. Any idea? The parts manual lists them as either SA-0070 (Imperial) or SA-0080 (Metric). Any ideas please? Thanks.

Great video. very useful thank you. I have the same problem with my Volvo C30... With a lot of water sloshing around under the carpet etc. The seal at the edges of the front windscreen has gaps and needs replacing.

Hello Samuel . I have been following Your successes and failures for some time. Try not to beat yourself up too much when things don't go as planned as you do very well for a someone without any formal machining training. I did my apprentiship many decades ago.. Back in those days a Fitting,Turning and Machining apprenticship took 10,000 hours (5 years, 8 hours a day 5 days a week ) and no time off for good behavior. There are many tens of thousands of hobby machinists out who do very well but it takes many many hours

Buy a set of thread wires to measure the actual pitch diameter of the thread you are cutting. Cut the thread so that the PD is in the middle of the tolerance range. Cut the OD of the thread so that it also is in the middle of the tolerance range. Make sure your threading insert has a small enough radius for the thread you are cutting. If you do that all commercial nuts should go on no problem. As others have said: Your lathe is working as it should, it's just wear and minute inaccuracies from the factory. :)

Love your videos. The saddle could have benefited from a scraping. At least to relive the middle a bit and get some more oil-retention.

Thank you! I always use Spherical washers as well😎

Samuel, glad you found no damage to your gearhead. i have have a lathe from Chester tools same size as your's (gearhead box much larger than the Harrison but not of it's quality) you are lucky. My problem shortly after importing into Ireland was oil leaking from feed change box, no chance of sending this back to U.K would cost a fortune, no info. on how to remove the feed box so removed front plate of box to get a look ( big mistake) all the gravity latches on the top and bottom shafts which aid side to side movement of gears DROPPED I then had to remove the motor and and the back gears plus the entire box. Job took about 2 days to complete. P.S never take remove the front plate on this box instead remove the box from under the gearhead in one piece and then carry out service thru. the now open back side of the box (or all the controls will drop out of position," heart breaking" I am 75 don't have the time for this kind of mess. Best of luck , you have a lovely shop well done.

great fix, cheers from the US, Paul

Well done Mr Fielder, and thanks for sharing your experience with us.

That was interesting thank you. Funny how these latent problems can be dormant waiting to show themselves later. It takes a long time to fully get to know a machine. Cheers

That was a good fix! My M300 headstock is fairly noisy, but the lathe is over 50 years old. Like you, I don't use the fastest two speeds either.

Good result. I just need to sort out the lubrication and I'm ready to run mine. Been wasting my time with enquiries to Colchester for Dickson tool holders. They clearly aren't interested in selling stuff. Can now understand why people are buying knock offs from India.

Phew! Beers are on you!

Thanks good to know The one at work has a few issues with the headstock gears because they didn’t realise you had to push them selectors in before you turn them

Good to see you back Samuel. Pleased you sorted it out. I too never use them top gears, my house lights dim when I do.🤣

Hello Samuel. Your misfortune was our fortune, in that we got to see you again. So pleased that you were able to “fix” your lathe and give a heads up to other Harrison owners. Hope to see more from you in due course. Stay well. 👍😀

Hi Samuel. Thank you for sharing. My M300 sounds very bad on high gear range, even worse in reverse.

Interesting and informative. Nice to see you again Samuel 👍

Thanks for an interesting little video, now I will know what to look for if it happens to me, hopefully it won't. I'm glad it was an easy fix for you in the end, I can just imagine the sickening feelings you had when you heard that horrible noise 😮

Interesting findings

Admiration for the petion and the craftsmanship!

Seems the grind takes care of the one issue, but runout will only go away if you can either precisely cut the jaws for two results (grip and concentuality) or if you do as you did, correct the grip, then add or modify your back plate to allow for tru adjust type modification on the 3 jaw. Either case, it sure is nerve wracking when it comes to fixing these issues. Thanks for sharing!

I turn the speed right down when doing parting. It’s not the easiest thing to do

The only reason you could get 3 phase is because it was available outside your house. If it was 50 m further up the road it would have been virtually impossible (of course with enough money you can have power anywhere!). Very jealous of your 3 phase service!