Yes

Highly likely you remember or even still have the acc. But did you take your hole drum break apart or did you keep it on like in the video

he used one of the lug-nuts

Ronaldo Deodono i think it has 8 because of heavier suspension rating , so be careful with that, especially if you load her up

Thats where I am today. Lol

That's where I'll be next time I have to take that tire off. One broke previously but as I was taking it off I could tell if I kept going 2 more were going to break if I went all the way. Tightened them back up carefully till I get new studs and nuts.

Thank you I did that job for free for a friend he did not want to spend the money but I wanted to make my first youtube vid thanks man

Good thing,good thing,correct 100%.

Wish the tire shops would follow this rule

This is my mistake thats why im here😭😭 any tips how to replace rear wheel studs guys???😭😭

Just did that today lmao

what if you don’t have a impact wrench

On my dodge sportsman, manual calls for them to be placed in the small space between the U bolts on both sides

Marty Stevens. You're a damn lie. Your cylinder didn't freeze. That bitch will leak before it freeze. And if it did freeze up, that was another issue with your brake system.

The Fucking studs come out in 2 swings of the hammer with no damage to any other parts. Unless you don't know how to swing a hammer. ...silly rabbit.

i was thinking that too (Thor). at least hit it with penetrating oil before you hit it. though very helpful.

@@midnightraiin4035 you that weak of a man you gotta use oil? 😂 Y’all are just some haters. He did the job quick and easy. They would’ve did the same shit at a professional shop.

@@Mdnghtnoir agreed at shop. they smack shit all day

I have all the tools just wanted to show what it takes to do the job if you don't have the tools I did the job for free for a friend and the hardware on 15 year old wheels is all rusted so replace it

Wow, you know some very basic brake knowledge, good for you... too bad ya can't spell "SQUEAKING"! LOL

NYMetal Guy I just simply misspelled it. My dictionary wasn't working. I had my mine on other things. Thanks for pointing it out! I didn't realize I misspelled it. A pad depressor can help to push the piston in to replace pads. If you have to use force, it's sticking. Use pad grease to prevent chirping noise.

@@martystevens3969 Thanks for the info just ignore the idiots.

Probably for the same reason im not gunna... Im broke muh fucka 🤑

Thin shoes should be replaced, sure, but just the shoes. If a wheel cylinder isn't very old, stuck/frozen or leaking, why replace it? No real good reason to, but they are cheap enough to replace every 4 or 5 years or so, since they are NOT meant to last forever. The brake springs only need replacing if they are really worn, weak and/or easy to stretch out, or are really rusted up and won't stretch out. I normally only change springs at every other rear shoe change, unless the springs are in bad shape. GM rear brake spring kits are usually $10-$15 at most parts suppliers, each kit has springs for BOTH sides, so ya won't need two spring replacement kits. One thing most amateur's and non-mechanics never know, or realize, is that brake fluid IS an oil and is made with an ability to withstand high temps, which it needs to do, since brake parts can reach temps over well over 900f. As the fluid ages it loses it's "viscosity" and breaks down, same as motor oil does, and can lead to spongy brakes or even brake failure and should be pumped out and replaced with new fluid every two to three years. I know, you're saying' "But they didn't ever tell me that I need to do that when I bought my car, so why should I!" Well, Of course they didn't tell you, they WANT your entire braking system to wear down and fall apart!, That way shops, especially dealer service centers CAN overcharge you more for more parts and more labor! One other thing with front brakes; any and all rubber brake lines (hoses) should be changed about every 4 or 5 years. They do dry rot and/or wear down and begin to leak through or expand/inflate when you step on the brakes, which leaves you with less stopping pressure, which is not a good thing. I hate it whenever I open someones master cylinder reservoir up and it's filled with old, dirty, contaminated, burnt, black brake fluid and sludge, cause that means more work for me and more labor charge for you! Also, you should NEVER have to ADD ANY brake fluid, ever! As long your braking system has not had any leaks or been opened there is no reason to ever add any!, It does NOT and can not evaporate, it's oil, NOT water. If your brake fluid is low, that is only because your brakes have worn down, so the level went down. When you replace your pads or shoes and/or rotors and drums, the level will be full again. Keep that fluid clean and fresh and your brakes will help you stop more reliably.

NYMetal Guy On both my cars, the LR wheel cylinders were frozen! I had a normal pedal but the wheel cylinders were frozen. The pistons were stuck in so the pedal was normal. The brakes didn't drag. Always replace the shoes, wheel cylinders, and springs every brake job for security that everything is normal. Bleed the brakes replacing the fluid. While there, replace the master cylinder while the lines are open. Springs stretch and cause drag. A pad depressor pushes the piston in. If you have to use force, it's sticking. They should just slide in easy. Check the drums for the lip which means wear. Same with rotors. Lisle has a stud tool to easily replace studs. It cost $20.00.

...or while you're in there, why not replace those worn down rear SHOES (not pads)?, or the worn out hardware (SPRINGS)?, or inspect and cut if nesc., or replace the drums if nesc.?, or replace the old crusty wheel cylinders? or bleed 'em out? And why bash the hell out of those busted studs and possibly bust, chip or fuck up something else that you didn't mean to hit? If they're stuck on from rust that bad, just soak an old rag with some gas, than place the rag over the front and back of the studs for an hour or so, the gas will eat off the rust better than any "liquid wrench" would and the studs do pop out much easier.

Yes a little brake clean and lubes in there would have helped while there - good video otherwise

@@user-nl9ne5gk6k bro shut tf up. This is exactly how they would do it at any shop. He did a great job.