At 5:40 you put a drop of lighter fluid on the inner ring and it frees up for you to proceed, but in the case of my regent I can’t get that ring to budge at all. I’ve tried plenty of “drops” of lighter fluid, I’ve even put some WD-40 in the small gap there, and I’ve spent far too long wrenching on it only to scratch it to hell. Any suggestions on how I could get it free to move forward?

This was a stressful video to watch, Chris! I don't think I took a single breath until you finally got that retainer locked into place. I don't know if it was all the finicky springs and components that refused to stay where they needed or the constant noise of wind and hedge trimmers. Usually we get the quite and relaxing sound of your clock in the background. I think I only heard half-a-dozen clicks of your clock through all the commotion this time. I truly admire your patience, Chris! 👍 Glenn

I've just bought a Vito B and it seems to work OK. I now fancy getting hold of a duff one to see the workings in the flesh. Brilliant video. Cheers!

There is a tool like a set of dividers that is made for this.

Your knowledge and handling of the repair is amazing. Can't wait for the next part!

Great video Chris - loads of tips and explanations 👍

I have always enjoyed watching your videos, Chris, and this latest series on the Diax is proving very interesting. By the way, it is an 18% Grey card. Oh, and I have a question please. Many years ago, back in the 1960s, I used Jenolite liquid to remove rust. It always seemed to work better than Brasso so I wondered if you had tried it, and whether it caused more problems than it solved?

PLZ NOTIFIY ME OF THE SECOND PART THX

Love your channel. You are a real treasure for anyone who loves mechanical things.

Very good. I bought one from Poland and now I want to restore it, but it is not in bad condition, in fact it is in good condition, but it needs some fine touch up

Thank you so much for these invaluable videos. Particularly this one encouraged me to take my Karat IV apart until the very last screw. I even found a remedy to remove the bellows, which is very important as it reveals a tiny nut that allows to remove and clean the lever that connects the lens to the rangefinder. The thing is, that the frame of the bellows isn't mounted with 4 screws but there's six of them. Two more in the center at top and bottom. It still takes some patience to remove the bellows entirely as the frame is glued to the camera body, but man was I happy after I discovered that and was able to clean that sticky lever :-)

I was under the impression that aperture and shutter blades had some sort of coating or anodizing that gave them their dark color and properties - and that polishing would remove it. Is that not the case?

Is there any chance that you can show us how to get the mechanism for the exposure time working properly again? My father gave me this beautiful Retina IIc around 40 years ago, and it has been with me for a long time. Robust mechanics and a brilliant Rodenstock lens that is in no way inferior to any other. Now I have picked it up again after a very long time and am delighted that everything still works almost perfectly (I always took great care of the camera). Everything works as if it were yesterday. It's just that the internal "clockwork" is now having problems setting the exact shutter speed. From around 1/8 sec, the exposure time is extended many times over (1 sec can sometimes become 3-4 seconds) - the lubrication would probably just need to be renewed. Do you have any tips? I'm skilled in such things, but better to get some specific advises from an expert :) best wishes

Unfortunately try as I might I can't undo the screw ring shown at 51:25 as clearly someone before me has tightened it well beyond snug! Seemingly that's why so many have a gouge out of them as not the best tool has been used and they are tightened too much. Is there any way to budge the ring?

What an amazing video. Thank you.

Were do you get replacement springs, ie happy sprongs?

At 54:04 what mechanism causes the cocking lever to spring back to its start position once the shutter is cocked? That ring looked loose i.e. not attached to the body so is there a spring on the shutter assy which flicks that lever back to start before the shutter gets released?

Thank you for the videos! Especially the Retina IIIc Playlist. I am curious, do you ever use the ultrasonic cleaner for the shutter mechanism?

Thank you for the video , it's given me the confidence to attempt a job that I've had on my todo list for a long time.

Wonderful tutorial Chris! It will be necessary to disassemble the wind mechanism again, as it really needs some lubrication before being buttoned-up!

Howdy Chris, I just followed your videos to rebuild my Super Silette, works perfectly now. Took me about 6-8 hours total and I rewatched each video several times. I've had the camera for about 15 years and only used it in the summer because it would seize up in cold weather. Wouldn't have been able to do it without your help, thanks a bunch!

Thanks to your video I got a relatively easy and successful repair job done on my Vitessa T. BTW I also was wondering why it wasn't cocking because I forgot that little washer :)

Hi chris , really enjoying your videos thank you. I have a question for you given you have handled many cameras. My rolleicord is an earlier " IIc " and the shutter speed and aperture levers are the small dinky type. There is quite abit of resistance in both given they are delicate small levers. Is this normal or should they be really free moving ? Also would this likely be an old lubrication issue? . Thanks Mark

I was following this until the shutter assembly 😂 the speed you were taking the parts out the assembly fried my brain. 😂 I think i will need to re-watch afew times. Thanks for the videos chris 👍

Inherited a Retina 1a and both screws holding the lens door are broke/disappeared. Do you happen to know size/dimensions or if those screws are possible to find? Or is it possible to fix with alternative screw types/size. Understandably that might require some drilling/rethreading?

Maybe they had at Braun's spring loaded center studs for assembly that gave way when you pushed on them.

Thanks Chris, from my point of view no need to take it all apart and do it again so we can see it. Have enough information on how it should be assembled. Many thanks.

Thank you very much for sharing your expertise here on KZbin. I’m sure I will find the information valuable as I work on a recently purchased Voigtlander Bessamatic.

Hi Chris, can you tell me the difference between nafta and cleaining gasoline?

I got one of these on eBay for $41, this video is ridiculously detailed about how to repair and refurbish these. Even if I screw up the refurb, I have a cool looking camera. :)

Hi Chris, many thanks for this.

Does anyone know if these shutters have a cable release port?

The springs are actually piano wire if that’s any information to you, but that you probably already know.

Those compur lenses look so simple, but in reality they are complicated like a Swiss watch, however it’s a so clever everlasting mechanism used for most high quality European brands

I see it’s been 3years since you made this video, I just acquired this same model. Can you explain how to use this exact meter? I can’t find proper information-all I find is one with the needle and circle type. Thank you for these videos I know they will come in handy. Subscribed.

Can you point me at anything regarding the film advance for the prewar SuperIkonta? Mine slips...

Great jiob congratulations.

Nice work . Thanks.

Good patient work.Thanks.

Good video thanks 🙏

Hi Chris, thank you for your videos. Question: is the position of the rear and front lens critical i.e. do you simply screw them back tightish or do they have to be adjusted or calibrated for optical performance somehow?

Thank you.

Tenho uma dessa,só que o fotômetro não está funcionando,ainda sim posso tirar fotos com ela?

Hi Mr Sherlock, Any idea of where I could service the model Retinette 030? I am in the UK and Paul Barden does not work for outside USA & Canada. Thanks

Hi, my film-spool knob fell out, it doesn't seem to be screwd, any ideia how to put it back?

If you don't happen to have 1/8 in aluminum sheet and a hole cutter you can make a makeshift version of. the Sherlock special tool out of a piece of thin plywood in a couple of minutes. Wood being very compressible the hole doesn't even need to be accurately cut. Plus a wooden tool will be even less likely to scratch or damage anything.

6:21 Honestly when I had a similar problem on my retina reflex iii I used a pair of needle pliers. Worked well with no scratches I saw.

I just bought a contaflex fully working. And fount this video ❤️❤️

Mr Sherlock, It's ironic that you decided to retire on the very first model camera I borrowed from my dad in 1970 for a trip to Spain at age 11, that led to Kodak's Retina Reflex S, and to your treasure trove of knowledge KZbin channel and website. Your generous sharing of that information and experience has led to a Reflex S's return to active use. I'm trying to make a working Reflex III out of three broken ones, and it appears I got lucky with the S. :) I haven't given up, and I want to do the same with the Reflex IV. I could not have done this without you. Thank you! Jim

Hi! I'm a complete camera newbie that just purchased a Retina Reflex III -- and accessories -- from a thrift store for about 40 bucks. My current issue is closing the lense; while it opened properly on my first attempt, I've no clue how to close it again! The arm swung properly again upon screwing the camera back into its' Kodak case, but I can't seem to learn how to close it!